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is200 Newbie

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is200 Newbie last won the day on May 26 2021

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  • First Name
    Noo bie
  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    IS 250 SE-L
  • Year of Lexus
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Denbighshire

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  1. Would like to come back to Lexus - had 10 years ownership of IS's and sold last 250 a few years ago. I have been looking and just happened to check through FB Marketplace (wouldn't normally look through that) but there are a few NX / UX models ranging between 2018 to 2019 at really cheap prices under £9000 with relatively low mileages so its got me thinking too good to be true. But thinking on the other have are people getting rid of these types of cars now for smaller ones .... all large engines, 2.5, V6 etc so not sure if people are getting rid of these for smaller engined cars but suspect they are scams?
  2. I have used a Turtle Wax product on our vans headlights and this was last year - the lights have not faded as of yet, 8 months of use ... (i did however spend a bit of time polishing them with various grades of sandpaper but used the turtle wax as a final process. I can recommend it as it has worked for me Turtle Wax Headlight Cleaner & Sealant 300ML | Halfords UK
  3. Was it bought from a dealer?, if so then take it back from them to resolve - its so easy these days to buy a car that has existing issues with and masking them by clearing the codes with an ODB II scanner for them to return a day or so after taking it off the forecourt or after changing hands ... Someone with a bit more knowledge on this will answer it better but that issue seems a bit more than wear and tear to me?
  4. I have used the torque app - yes its basic but it will give you an idea of the area to focus on
  5. Have you got a code scanner - it will point you to the area of the issue if nothing else so you can narrow it down ...
  6. It is probably the rear shoes binding to the drums - parked up when hot in cold weather they will bind to the inner disc until the force of the forward movement releases them... it happens to quite a few makes of car
  7. Could this be a possible issue with air intake? Blocked or dirty air filter or maf meter needs cleaning?
  8. Can't you look at the rear calipers yourself - arguably the easier caliper between front and rear to service - look to see if they have seized and if they are not too far gone then you can free them, grease and put them back together - no need to remove them from the brake system on the car to do that. Use the correct grease on them, red rubber grease from Toyota which can (the last time i bought it) be bought from Toyota for £10 (toothpaste sized tube) or eBay. Doing the rear brakes, even if it takes an hour or so and you get them greased etc will save you almost £500 and it will give you an idea on how to maintain them in the future as they do need regular maintenance (greasing) Also - if you look on eBay then you can source two new genuine rear calipers for around £244 - you can also source non OEM ones for around £60 each and as the garage will not fit anything other than OEM then have another garage fit these ...
  9. Age and mileage of car - usually after 70k both banks become ready for replacement. As you will see when you remove the old one, its just wear and tear. You will probably see that its blackened with dirt and heat damage - its not an indication of other issues but i would certainly consider looking to change the bank 2 sensor at the same time seeing as they were both probably installed into the system at the same time. Also, don't consider the cheap ones on auction sites as some (not all) are fake. Denso are the ones to go with as you don't want to be changing these all of the time. The part number should be on the walk through i posted which you have linked to and they are easier to buy from the states. If i can remember correctly i drove mine without issue for a few weeks until i received the order of the two sensors from the states.
  10. I had this on a couple of IS's i owned and to be honest it didn't cause any issues over the 10 years i owned them but managed to reduce the noise quite a bit. What i did do tho was i always changed the oil on a 6 monthly basis (this was back a few years when oil was relatively cheap) and during the oil change i would always run an engine flush through at the same time (Wynnes engine flush, smelt a bit like paraffin?) - 20 minutes at a higher rev than tick over. Whether it was placebo effect, it did reduce the times it rattled, but as it's a noticeable noise i would say yes it was effective reducing it down to once or no rattles at all in the 6 month period between changes. I seem to remember it did not remedy it immediately as it was over a long period of changes but i had always used an engine flush on all cars so carried on with the IS's. Yes, petrol and oil have cleaning additives but i was used to doing it for relatively little expense. I always used Castrol Magnatec which then changed to start /stop.
  11. Anyone from North Wales interested in a 4L tub of Castrol Magnatec Start/Stop 5w/30 A5 spec - i dont have the car anymore and bought this to do a service on it
  12. The centre resonator from an is200 fits as i fitted one myself to an IS250 a few years ago when i made an exhaust for it. I am not sure if either left or right side (compared to the 220) but look at the OEM Rover MG ZT exhaust back box - i used this for mine but its a twin exhaust, pretty sure i needed to adjust the pipe but it wasn't much but just check as it was a while back i done this ...
  13. ..... also, not sure if you know ... there are brake shoes that operate in the discs themselves and although these generally dont wear as quick as the pads themselves, it may be worth asking the garage to check them out also just to put a stake in the sand to say that the shoes are not the issue. They dont have a lot of meat on them and thats normal.
  14. Have you tried taking the dashcam out and using the sat nav on its own - does it still blow the fuse? Also, on the other hand, have you tried using the dashcam with the sat nav off - does that blow the fuse? If either of the above scenario's blow the fuse then as above, i agree that there's likely something else at fault. I would still recommend plugging it into the centre console armrest socket - just adapt the dash cam plug to fit and leave it plugged in. No issue with that as its pretty useless otherwise.
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