Firstly adjust the steering wheel out and down as far as it will go.
The trim below the instrument cluster unclips by pulling backwards, although it might be easier to unclip the ignition switch surround to get a purchase.
With the bottom trim removed two screws are revealed, which need to be taken out. A magnetic screwdriver helps to prevent them disappearing.
Next remove the upper part of the steering colum shroud, which gives a bit more room to manouvre the instrument cluster, especially when disconnecting the electrical connectors.
There are two screws hidden by the steering wheel, which needs to be turned ¼ turn to reveal the screws on either side.
Unclip the two halves by pressing on the top of the lower half each side, which should release the internal clips.
At the top of the surround are two barely discernible slots:
Through each of the slots insert a flat blade screwdriver, wrapped in tape, and lever upwards so as to pull the cluster rearwards towards the steering wheel. Just do it a little at a time.
This one of the upper clips:
The bottom of the cluster should be disengaged from the lower location pegs and the whole unit pulled out as much as possible, without straining the cables. Undoing the connectors is a little tricky, because space is limited.
This is the rear of the cluster. There are six screws securing the rear cover:
(At this point, if the bulbs you need to replace are along the bottom there is no need to dismantle any further)
Once the rear cover is removed various connectors need to be released. There are three ribbon connectors at the top, which are released by gently levering up, but not removing, the black locking bar. The ribbon can then be pulled out.
At the bottom are three further connectors, which need to be disconnected.
Next, there are eleven screws that hold the PCB to the rear of the cluster, which also seem to form part of the circuitry.
Lifting away the PCB reveals the warning light bulbs. All 29 of them!
Reassembly is a reverse of the process.