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Got it done mate…bc coilovers. Drives fine

@preston6566 near gosforth race course, a few miles north of city centre off the A1. is MY2010. I guess the only downside is that my car is not stock, has coilovers, aftermarket exhaust and bushings. barry

Assuming your car is a 200d. BC Racing Coilovers

I have a is200 xe20 model 2011 plate, and I'm really struggling to find coilovers for it, does anyone have any recommendations or any links to sites that sell them? TA

Hi everyone, So I bought my second LS430 after I unfortunatley had an accident in my first one. I got my first one in mint condition before the crash which was unfortunate. I bought this one as a fixer upper but due to redundancy it ended up being my daily with no work going into it and it's starting to fall apart. Mechanically it's mostly sound, engine and gearbox are sweet as a nut. But it now needs a lot of work I can't really do over a weekend, so I'm thinking of getting a cheap run around and taking it off the road so I have time to do what work I can by myself. Some of the work it needs: A new or repaired front bumper as my current one is cracked after a small bump. Some body work on the rear bumper. The two front doors will most likely need replacing as they both have bad rust that I think is beyond saving at this point. Some paint work as it's the red/maroon colour which is pretty rare so I doubt I'll be able to find panels in that colour. A new petrol tank as my current one leaks if I fill it more than half way. A new exhaust as mine is very rusted and leaking; it sounds like a NASCAR - (luckily I have a full stainless steel catback from my old one). A new rear air strut as one is leaking (I may possibly convert it to coilovers but I don't really want to take away the ride comfort. Fixing the AC as it doesn't work. A new set of alloys, or have my current ones refurbed. Other than that a few bits and bobs but nothing serious. My AC doesn't work, nor did it on my old one. While I've never looked into it, I imagine it's the lines that run under the car to the rear. I can find the replacement hoses for not too much considering Lexus' part prices. I know you need to drop the exhaust and fuel tank to get to them but I'll be doing that anyway. Does anybody know of any guides to do this or have any of you done this repair yourself? I also heard of people just blocking off the rear and returning functionality to the front but I think I might as well fix the entire thing if I'm taking it apart. I also need to fix the leak on one of the struts, it's the rear right. I still need to check where the leak is coming from before I blindly put a new strut in it. In your experience is it the strut that goes bad or could it be a bad line somewhere? Also, while I'll have the car in pieces are there any other things I should be checking/replacing? Thanks guys EDIT: Forgot to mention, I'm hearing a clicking/clunking sound when I come to a stop sometimes. I imagine it's a bad bushing or something, although it seems to ride just fine. Any ideas where I can look first for the culprit?

Hi guys, recently bought a 2000 LS430 - had no issues on the first few drives, however recently a knocking noise has appeared that goes up with speed. When applying the brakes, the noise goes away almost completely, and it sounds like it's coming from the front passenger side. I've had the wheels off, checked brake pads & discs, all bolts and everything seems tight as far as I can tell. The noise started out of nowhere, and it's been the same for the past week or so, it hasn't gotten any worse. The only thing I saw missing is the disc retaining screws, but don't think that would cause the issue. The car is on sitting on BC coilovers. Tyres are all good, all correct pressure and no visible damage to them. Have swapped the front wheels with different ones, and the issue still persists. Any idea what this could be? All help is appreciated

Thanks mate! Got the bc coilovers. They have this shop in manchester, just waiting for delivery. They charge £200 to get it fitted.

Hi guys! i have a lexus is fsport 2017…been finding it difficult to look for a coilover. Been in contact with different shops and they said that they cant find any coilover which will suite the car. can anyone help?

Get some from a low mileage breaker.. it'll be okay. Mine were still relatively okay on 130k miles when I changed to coilovers.

The full suspension assemblies are in the garage, maybe one day I shall attempt to get them rebuilt as they would certainly be worth something to someone. I must say I'm impressed by the after marked coilovers. I have never fitted them to anything other than performance orientated vehicles so it was a bit different for me looking at lower spring rates to keep the comfort and make it just a touch lower and flat front to rear. Only reason I found it was a slight fluctuation in the steering over small bumps just on the left hand front wheel. It was out of place to the comfort the car normally gives you. So off I went into the black hole attempting to diagnose. There wasn't any fluid leakage visible on the front shock just the bounce test showed it was way gone compared to the other side. I originally thought it could be the dreaded classic toyota lower ball joint which I was worried about collapsing on me forcing me to investigate. Sorry for the essay haven't really posted anything about it. 😂

I spent quite a while searching for a replacement damper then after removing them off the car for a better inspection found one of them was completely shot (front left) and rear right was leaking fluid. Gave up and I managed to secure some after market coilovers for now to tide me by. £703 for all 4 including topmounts. On the softest setting they are basically the same ride comfort as the TEMS system in sport mode. They have settled substantially lower than I wanted after a couple days so car is going back in the air to be raised another inch and half in the rear. On other notes I noticed the steering dampner was leaking some fluid when removed so I am going to measure the stroke of a Mercedes S320 steering dampner as the bolt holes are the same size and I can get a KYB model for £28 delivered. Worth a shot. Just slowly going round doing my usual thing of future proofing the car for the miles it will receive in the summer going to shows.

The tankless system works great, not as quick as one with a dedicated tank but hasn't been an issue for me. I simply activate the lift system slightly earlier when i know there's a need for it. Takes about 10 seconds to lift the front end. Would definitely recommend if lowering via coilovers and need the ability to go over obstacles and up or down an incline. Has been very useful for me and I use it frequently whenever I take out the GSF. Don't know if BigRat still updates the F registry that he kept.

Will 10.5x20 ET 25 fit the RCF with coilovers? Tyres not purchased yet but likely 295/30/20 willtheyfit quotes +9.7mm inside shift and +22.4mm outside shift (compared to OEM with 275/35/19) can’t find an example of these as often not all the info is shown. But there are 11” up to 12” rear wheels used. All in the offset. Debate:

@J Henderson I am going to follow Bilstein and forum members' advice and stick to the OE springs for now. I don't want to prematurely wear them out with lowered springs. Coilovers, whilst very nice, are extremely expensive even in comparison to what these cost and as you said for a daily driver I personally don't want them!

Nice! What springs are you going to be pairing them with? I'm also planning to change my suspension this year at some point but still kinda undecided whether coilovers should be an option or not. Was leaning more towards getting the billys though as my car is a daily driver and I already have a set of new springs (H&R) to go on.

Part numbers for @ahmed-abrar and anyone else interested: Front left - 24-155311 Front right - 24-155328 Rear - 24-155335 I believe they were originally designed for use with the ISF. But given the compatibility I'm giving them a try as an alternative to coilovers.

I don't have manual, but I have driven one and the points related to manual are as well quite well documented and common knowledge on forum. First of all is the road tax - automatic was £325 and manual was £585 last time I have checked, probably more now. At least for me it makes no sense to pay same road tax for IS-F as it costs to run IS250 manual. Second point is reliability and cost of maintenance, manual gearbox just costs more - fluid in manual gearbox needs to be replaced every 40k miles and is expensive job, whereas in theory automatic does no need it at all (but I would say at least once in 100k miles would be good idea) - so in short you will need to spend £400-£600 to replace fluid 2.5 times more often on manual. Same for clutch and DMF - neither exists on automatic, so you don't need to worry about them, on manual it is £1200 just in parts. Third point - how fun it is to drive... I would argue manual is more fun if you know what you doing, but particular one fitted in IS250 just doesn't suit the car as well as automatic, doesn't suit UK speeds either. So automatic in this case suits the car more and feels smoother and more luxurious overall, gear ratios are better for UK and I would argue it is even more economical where it matters. Manual is "more fun" - but IS250 isn't a sports car and doesn't really benefit from additional "control" you get from manual, but suffers from worse economy and other manual gearbox related issues. I mean sure - if you plan to use IS250 as cheap drift car platform, fit it with rock hard coilovers, change suspension geometry, fit LSD, strip the interior and trash it on the track... then sure manual is the way to go. But for daily driving, comfortable, reliable, entry-luxury car the automatic just makes more sense.

Get coilovers if you want to lower your Is250 or get B6 shocks paired with OE springs. B6 + Eibach Prokit springs is like fitting lowering springs on standard shocks. Quick way to blow or ruin shocks. If you do decide to lower, you want to check that your control arms and bushes are in good condition as lowering would put a bit more pressure on your suspension components. I replaced most of mine. The 250 is a comfort cruiser so you can’t tweak as easily as you would the German marques you mentioned.

@H3XME thanks Lucas. Too many speed humps on my route to work and she’s my DD. She’s now steady on motorways and holds turns much better. I’m inclined to agree you could do with these. Up for it as I don’t track this one…we may have to measure that diameter and then drive each other’s cars to get a feel before we swap - waddaya think? I may have some pics of the coilovers before fitting if a visual would help. Let me know.

What struts you have on there Steve? Was thinking coilovers would be good not looking to slam, just comfortable ride without troublesome air struts. Do you have FM expander.

Ahh that's good. At least you're pretty flexible with what you want. I did hear that some later ISF's are slower but not sure why. You can change the LSD which I didn't know about at the time. I don't know of many people here that have but on ClubLexus.com I'm sure you'll find a few. I also cannot comment on the suspension. Mine was knocking end of the year so I replaced it with BC coilovers. We have a local motorsport/garage that supply them with proper balancing and corner weighting, so I jumped at that. I went with 18kg and 14kg spring rates to get close to OEM as I liked the ride. Yes getting USRS bushings are a good start and something to change when addressing suspension. RCF and GSF have uprated bushings and these fit the ISF.

Is anyone on here running this BC coilover on their IS250? Mine came with 14K/10K springs and are expectedly stiff compared to stock; starting to think these spring rates are meant for the ISF or IS350. So far, the car doesn’t lunge forward too much when I bring it to stop. Currently rides like a bimma infused Fuji. You catch my drift? 🤡 They’re currently set at standard ride height with 15 clicks from stiff to soft all round. I didn’t mess with the preload. Haven’t dialled them in yet. Short of getting plastic surgery on my bum to help absorb the impact of bumps, some feedback from an experienced member would help. The aim is to lower for better handling and looks without shattering my coccyx. Thanks Frank

I don't think the DHP springs are available as I looked some years ago and couldn't find any. It may be possible for old stock to be gathering dust on shelves somewhere though - who knows. I believe fitting coilovers may be the solution if maintaing the ride height and handling is important. Mine had an inch broken off the bottom of a front spring, but it still worked, and coilovers would have been my option if it had failed further. I do believe there are some spring manufacturers that could replicate the fitment, but I didn't explore that. Yes, /70 was a typo, but I can't now edit it.

Not GS related, but has relevance in the whole 'suspension setup' theme - I've just finished changing out my XKR's coilovers for a full set of XK (softer) ones. I'll be doing a fair bit more work on the XKR over the next few months (it's due a bit of attention as I've been focusing on the GS a lot in the last year), but I will keep future videos off this thread, as it's not exactly GS-related 😇 Just thought it may be of interest...

Bc gold coilovers on most of them but on my latest one I've gone to the cheaper ones just to try them. Maxpeeding they are called... not bad for 200 quid. I had issues with them at the start but got them sorted