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Showing results for '"coilovers"'.
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I feel we may have missed a "verse" is the geometry due to some form of complaint with Nottingham? why are they paying someone else to do the work? If they need an explanation of why the tyre wear does not affect the geometry get them to phone me Tony Bones 01923 234666 and i will put things right... Fact is a geometry can be set without a wheel!!! this methode uses the disc as a target, so hows that for "tyre wear cant do" ← You a cornucopia of knowledge Mr Bones. Slightly but would appreciate your opinion. IS300, 8,700 miles, new rubber on the back, Fever's APEXI's coilovers getting fitted next week (I hope) - will I benefit from a geo? ← If the suspension is changed then a geom is a must, "but" any setting will be in dispute? all the maths is dependent on the height of the coilovers and then the dynamic range of the suspension, move away from the book then any suggested settings no longer exist and must be manufactured, i can do this for you remotely but i will need "more" information.
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I feel we may have missed a "verse" is the geometry due to some form of complaint with Nottingham? why are they paying someone else to do the work? If they need an explanation of why the tyre wear does not affect the geometry get them to phone me Tony Bones 01923 234666 and i will put things right... Fact is a geometry can be set without a wheel!!! this methode uses the disc as a target, so hows that for "tyre wear cant do" ← You a cornucopia of knowledge Mr Bones. Slightly but would appreciate your opinion. IS300, 8,700 miles, new rubber on the back, Fever's APEXI's coilovers getting fitted next week (I hope) - will I benefit from a geo?
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full tank : 335mm front 350mm rear Eibach springs, Bilstein shocks 19x8 ET45 League LG099 225/35R19 Pzero Nero front 235/35R19 SP9000 rear Soon to be lower on coilovers :)
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Baz....here's mine. Coilovers Fitted 320mm Front 315mm Back 18" Alloys 225 / 40 / 18 Tyres No rubbing at all! :)
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i put on strut bar roll bars coilovers in that order, and on each step noticed an improvement over what was stock if it had been done in the reverse order, i dont think the benifits would have nbeen as noticable, but they would still be there :)
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Well - it depends on how much you pay for labour and the cost of coilovers. Not everyone wants to adjust ride height/dampness and to have all the extra hassle of coilovers (I know its not really hassle - but you get the idea)..... :D
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Thanks for clearing that up :) So really... If you spend £150 on 30mm springs... £300 on ARB... and then say £200 on labour... Doesn't it make sense to just go with coilovers in the first place?
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But that maybe due to the fact you have coilovers. I had the same thing. With Eibachs, I noticed the anti-rolls, but when I get the coilovers, I didn't so much.
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Spot on Pete....IMHO I think that the logo looks well smart!! Time to get some more pictures up!! :) ......oh and some coilovers on!! :P
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Hmmm was just thinking about this and haven't really seen anything recommending this before... I guess as standard the Eibachs etc lower the car by the same amount I think - say 30mm front and back, but the coilovers allow full control front and rear, so what configuration would offer the best compromise between handling and looks? Guessing comfort doesn't come into play when the TTE's etc are used as the damping rate is non-adjustable, or would the ride soften out when the car is raised back up again? To be honest i'm not sure so thought I'd ask! I'm not sure on the specifics on mine but the back end is very twitchy in the wet - just wondered what sort of configuration would be the most neutral, should the front be lowered the most or the back, or should they always be lowered the same amount? Cheers all for any input :)
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TTE reccomend no more than 35mm all round on their coilovers. When they fitted mine, they actually set them at 30mm. They wouldn't lower it any further as they said this was the optimum height.
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Not a MKI and a MKII, both were MKII (series II) however the 300 was a pre-facelift and my current one is post. Yes there is a difference in a positive way. The ride is better and it doesn't crash as much over bumps - I can now go over speed bumps without wanting to come to a complete stop and just crawl over them. Not sure if it is only a difference in shocks, springs and bushes may well have been uprated as well. However it does still crash over an ant in the road and wallow and wander. I am also looking at the Tein CS coilovers. The wander can be reduced by having a full wheel geometry check. I would do this first because if may solve your problems. The GS chassis does have a lot of flex in it so chassis braces are probably a good thing to try. Don't think the prolex braces have been tried though. The Toms ones are the best for the GS but are expensive and I am reluctant to buy them without being able to try them first. Due to the lack of GSs in the UK you will probably be one of the first to try suspension/chassis mods and therefore you will take on a risk of wasting money. -
one of our moderators, Colin Barber, had a MkI GS300 and now has a MKII GS430 - I am sure he will give you some insight :D I am looking at Tein CS coilovers for my GS - want to improve the cosmetic appearance, and the handling - and these seem to be used by GS owners who want to maintain ride quality. if you want to focus on handling - then the Tein HA / SS / Flex may be more in order. Prolex also do Bilstein coilovers, which are supposed to be quite sporty - maybe approach them about a deal on these and the braces? -
You crazy guy!!! I don't really want the expense of coilovers - I'm not after a big drop. I realise that I have to compromise and I would rather have the comfort - it is a practical day to day family car. If I didn't have to visit these crap roads and go on pot-hole full country lanes to Saddleworth and Shaw I'd definetly be keeping the Eibachs.
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When i went in Fargos IS300 recently, it didn't even feel lowered! handled like a lowered car but the comfort was very good. We both have same coilovers (Apexi N1s) mines little more sensitive to rough rounds... but i have something like a 80mm drop! lol I think so long as you don't go too low with lowering springs you will be fine. Once you go lower than this your gonna get bumpy ride as the shock isn't shortend and progressive like the lowering springs. 30mm will be fine, after this get shocks.
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Anees, the only other option I can think of is that you look into the Tein CS (Comfort Spec) coilovers - I know they're a lot more expensive but from what I've read they are as soft as the standard ride while still offering adjustment when you actually want it.. I think I have some springs knocking about as well mate, I'll have a look but they could be what you're after... Like you I'm tempted to go to a softer option, and th standard shocks and Eibach's could keep me going a while so I can try some things out :)
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thanks did you read Colin's review of the Eibach springs mate? I am no longer considering just springs - and thinking more of coilovers. and there's Keith with a conflicting opinion! aarrghh! we have several reputable companies as sponsors who will more than likely be able to help you. Keith got his from TDI You could also contact Prolex-UK both of these companies have people who read and post in these forums pretty much every day, I'm sure if they can help you they will post here or contact you by PM (hint :winky: ) :D
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i have promised a friend that he will get the first option on my Tein CS. But ... i also have an used set of Apexi WS coilovers for sale soon ... These will give the same ride as stock, but are not stiffness adjustable.... I will post some pics next week when I am back from my trip.
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i have removed and installed shocks/springs and coilovers on my car for 4-5 times, without too much trouble. However, i used a bridge. Also, the GS and IS suspension setup and shocks/coilovers are very much alike, such that i guess that the installation for both cars is comparable.
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Wanted to ask you for a favor ... *** can you also supply spart parts for the KW coilovers, like replacement springs ...? sorry for not answering your question.
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Mat They are heavy ! The TTE coilovers I have weigh 30kgs Shouldnt be able to see them Needs to be jacked up to be adjusted
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i know its higher than your budget, but you cant go wrong with the TTE coilovers excellent bit of kit , worth saving up for :D
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well i didn't go to get it done from the dealers, my mate did the change for me.. Timing Belt (rest of belts are fine), Gearbox Oil, Engine Oil, change the engine coolant, Take off the front n rear anti roll bars, regrease and re-fit, check ball joints, check coilovers, check brakes.. £130.00 he supplied engine oil (duckamhs full syn) n gear box oil, i got the timing belt and oil filter from dealers, (engine coolant was free from due to them supplying the wrong timing belt!!) delares quote was trebble the price! I would rather get my car serviced from this guy more than dealers after the last service i had from the dealers :tsktsk: ..
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Found A Place To Do Geometry Checks In North West!
Tony-Bones replied to Anees's topic in Lexus IS200 / Lexus IS300 Club
How long did this "small adjustment" take ? I know Anees' car took 4 hours all in, but then his is fairly modified. Mine is completely stock, but still took 3 and half hours and, interestingly, my adjustment(s) also cost £80 + VAT. If it's easy to adjust (in minutes) why is it taking so long? (I'm not having a go at anyone - I'm just interested to know) ← The more time spent with a customer in reality is a good thing, assuming it's not £ by the hour! when i do a geometry on an IS the time taken is about two hours, example: Scorpions geometry, IS200 needed a full recovery since he removed the coilovers, the geometry including set-up and print took one hour.. the "chat" we had took another hour, the cost was for the work done, not the time taken. I want "Drury" to be a beacon for you, but please can thay disply actual costs.. -
Mark, so the car's in the mag tomorrow, but it's got a problem? What's happening fella, is it still going to be in there tomorrow or is that postponed now? How serious is the damage? The first thing I thought of when you said the wheels were the wrong way was that I'd knackered it when I sat in it at JAE What do you mean by they're in the wrong direction by the way, are they pointing out sideways like the Delorean in Back to the Future :P Or is the camber just severely out like mine was when I first had the coilovers put on before they settled down so they were like / --- \ ?? And if it was alright when it left Mat but it has a problem now where has it been - has anyone took it out or are you just extremely particular? Not a dig mate just wondering if you're picking up on something that would be within other people's spec? And when it's in Girl Racer, will there be girl's draped all over it - can I come down too and let them all drape over my 'monster' What does crabbing mean by the way? Sounds like something the doctor sorted for me, does it mean the car is constantly snaking side to side? Thanks for any answers pal, a lot of these terms are over my head as you can probably tell Looking forward to it finished, it was awesome last time I saw it, and it just keeps getting better :) ← Hi Aido, The Banzai feature is still on for today. There's no serious damage, just a bending of a standard bracket which should be rectifiable by reinforcement. The rear n/s/r wheel was toeing out by quite a lot, and the o/s/r by a smaller amount which introduces some rear end steering. It wasn't alright when Mat dropped it off (unless it happened when driving it from Lakeside to Barking - which is unlikely), I assume that it was just unoticed. In fact I didn't notice it when driving it back from Lakeside until it was poined out to me by Phil who was following me. Girl Racer is a new publication apparently, so I don't know anything about it yet. "Crabbing" is when the car drives slightly sideways, the way a crab moves, albeit to a very small degree. The old Mini's (showing my age now ) used to suffer from this badly when the rear sub frame broke or the bushes wore out.
