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Showing results for '"coilovers"'.
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Pretty straight forward to change a/r/b's,give yourself a couple of hours depends how handy you are with a spanner. Dont think i could justify the cost of coilovers if i only drove the car on my days off.
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From memory people have suffered various levels of knocking on the Teins.I had the SS and had a slight noise from the F/N/S and others have had the same noise from the rears,you need to find a set of coilovers that make use of the std rubber mounts inside the top of the shocks,i found i had the same level of ride comfort with the TTE anti roll bar and Eibach spring combo.......it all depends how hard you drive the car.if you like to drive it hard most of the time then the coilover is the way to go with anti-roll bars as there is a marked improvement in handling.
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these are coilovers just uprated dampers and springs, can be found for around £500!! I'll be getting a set of konis after ive done enough deals Zee is the only person i know who has bilsteins on.. and loads of euroloc use the konis, they just arent a popular choice here. The only reason i'm taking this route is because my front damper is leaking
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erm....... There is every need for anti roll bars, if you DRIVE the car you willfeel the need for anti roll bars, the Function of coilovers and ARB is totally different, coilovers dont compliment ARB, however, the ARB does compliment the feel, stabilty and ability to change direction of the car there fitted to
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For £700 you could import a set of very very nice Coilovers. I don't see the point of Anti Roll bars at all with Coilovers.... i'm living proof, found very little gain from installing those. Understandable you gain from just lower springs... Coilovers no questions at that price mate!
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He could but it is not the same........................ coilovers is the best way to go :winky:
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We've sold several sets of TTE coilovers (bit more than £700) and the people who have them are very pleased (fargo,bazza,fever) unlike the majority of others they retain the top mounts so you dont get any knocking. The chassis braces work a treat they stiffen the shell up nicely. If you saw the OEM ones for the rear in comparison you would think WTF !
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TRD are very expensive (top quality though) and dealers make little profits as a result. TTE are linked to Lexus GB for a lot of stuff. Chris.S is very helpful and can offer a discount if you are a goldie. Prolex-UK can offer anything from TTE at competitive prices which is not subject to their contractual arrangements with Lexus/Toyota. We can't offer any body kits but offer & hold in stock lowering springs,anti roll bars,Coilovers etc. We can source some nice TTE alloy wheels as well. PM me if you wish for prices etc
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The way i see it, your options are: 1. Keep 3SGTE, purchase 3SGE BEAMS, perform the 3SGTE conversion to the BEAMS motor (one of the Altezza Clubbers in NZ has done this) 2. Sell 3SGTE to fund a 1JZGTE or more expensive 2JZGTE conversion (we have a few such conversions in our club also!) If you are worried about the work required for a conversion, though, do not consider the 1J or 2J conversion - custom engine mounts, gearbox, diff etc! If you want power over handling though - the results are truly awesome though, much more power then is healthy, and with coilovers and the like, still very respectable handling.
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Ok, it was all supposed to happen Saturday at the Dr's but as we know Tony was crook so it was all off for good reasons. Anyway got myself a Tiptronic RS200 Altezza. Done a few mods already starting with leather covers bought from and fitted by Fargo RS-R Manifold (was bling whan I got it) and waiting for the section to take the pre-cats out HKS Induction Also bought Fargo's Coilovers (Apexi N1 V's) getting fitted this week and then off to the Doctor next weekend for the Geo set up. The handling needs sorted. Cleaned the MAF sensor at the weekend and WOW what a difference :D Got some questions for more changes but will put in a new post, happy as a P*g in sh*t at the moment.
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Heyas, I'm trying to keep to my schedule of alternating power & handling mods, and so far here's what I've done Power Tom's Barrel Exhaust Pipercross Air Filter Car Sound high flow cat (in the works) Custom "cat-less" manifold/headers Handling TRD antiroll bars (in the works) HKS coilovers, assorted struts/braces Anyway, what I want to know is what else I can do to free up a little more power. As you can see, when I finally get around to sorting out the manifold/header, I'll have pretty much a free exhaust (well, almost anyway). I suppose I should also drop in a set of iridium spark plugs, but I'd be over the moon if it actually gives me just 1hp more somewhere along the power curve. :P I might also consider a higher FD (maybe a 4.5 or 4.7; 5.5 is too hardcore for me :)) So has anyone tried any of these? Any suggestions, reviews, etc? 1. Port & Polish 2. Stroker kit / higher comp pistons (do these even exist?) 3. Aftermarket ECU (either a full blown one like the Apexi Power FC or some piggyback) with 'just' exhaust/intake mods thanks in advance!
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since taking off the HKS Hiper I haven't scraped, now i'm lowered on coilovers too that thing just hangs down too low!
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The TRD coilovers are REALLY that stiff. TRD coilovers are tuned for (semi-)racing, and then you require stiff... The Sportivo are a total different kind of driving experience ...
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Perhaps i should qualify: Where budget is a concern, and you mainly just want a lowered car, then the TRD Sportivo set is fo' real. Where your willing to spend extra because you want good handling, and don't mind compromising one ride quality, go the coilovers. A good Koni setup would be the best 'bang for buck' coilover set for European or Australian buyers (they are quite afforable down here also). I'm looking at TRD coilovers mainly because my experience with TRD stuff is good, and i able to get cheap TRD parts *shhhhhhh*
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Yeah, took it out yesterday with the TSL guy after having the geometry done. He's seriously into wellying Scoobys and had just come back from doing some rallying in the Pyrenees. Anyway he took her out on some interestingly curvy bendy country roads and really worked the motor. He didn't like the tiptronic shift at all so put it into full auto, power button on, TRC off and here we go......the louder you scream the faster we go..... Didn't reach any serious speeds but the motor got a real workout in the hands of a professional. Half an hour (and half a tank) later we returned to base with everything intact. The only comment he had was the knocking noise from the coilovers. He told me that this could be easily cured and the TSL technical director was ex. Toyota Racing Team and would get it fixed no problem. His comment on the Typhoon was that they are great on N/A and S/C cars but with turbo'd Scoobys and Evos they cause laminar (rather than pulsed) airflow and are a common cause of blowing the engine!
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UPDATE: Have been running the TRD's for a while. These are the TRD Sportivo shock and spring replacement, and matching sway bars. Results are good overall: car sits flat, but rides very much like stock! For those looking at lowering their car on a budget, the TRD Sportivo shock and spring combo is the only choice - stock-like ride quality, better handling, lower car, and not as expensive as the coilovers. Everyones a winner, baby! Best partnered with the stiffer sways, i think! Have to say though, the Koni's without the uprated sways provided better handling. They were height adjustable also, but this required maching a groove to change the perch position. Considering this, i am now looking at the TRD coilovers... are they really that stiff???
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Haha, don't you normally feel confident when the ride is higher? Oh and lowering can have problems- especially if you live in a speedbump-ridden city like london with all manner of different speed restrictors to screw your car up :duh: ← No sitting higher makes you feel like you own the road, and have the right to do hit and runs inc. those when your in traffic and parked in tesco's car parks.... But i totally emphathise with those who live in london or anywhere for that matter with rough roads... Milton Keynes is very forgiving in that respect so i take full advantage of it.. Lowering reduces bodyroll, has effect on braking too... its just a must do mod. Not felt springs on a IS200, i went straight for coilovers, ride quality was fine upto 50mm drop, smooth and not hard. Anything more you will be in for a harder ride... Am.
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Offset ET45 It will be Dumped not like yours :D when i get my coilovers sorted :D
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Lowering is an obsession, well it is for me... Here's what i did one day, coilovers dumped all the way on the rear, put the jack down belly of the car hit the floor before jack was all the way down my battery packed up, thats the only pic i took :duh: My moto... if it don't rub it ain't low enough...
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This DN chap sounds like a :tsktsk: I originally went to Southend (or the dealer near southend), was ready to get a used lexus there that day, but walked off coz the guy I dealt with was very arragont or lacking in sales techniques!! I then drove down to Woodford and enquired about a used IS200, got sold a new one instead but like you guys have said I think I did all right out of it, the rear parking sensors were supposed to be something like £350 (colour coded) haggled him to chuck that in for free and also the paint protector stuff which was an additional £300+. The guy I dealt with was Neil Vaux, a really nice chap, took me out for a test drive in his own IS00. The silver one in the show room is very nice, but not my one. It should be delivered some time today, ready for me tomorrow – I went for the astral black with full black leather interior ;) Good stuff about the service centre in Woodford, sounds like the start of a beautiful friendship (fingers crossed). First on my shopping list is a set of coilovers…….and so it begins!!! Ash
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Tony - I would be grateful for any information on the set-up ← "Sorry!" guys, i know this situation is "pants" but there we go....future plans will involve the "low" club :D "Still" i can help with the set-up. Mr Morse we have spoken via Email and PM, but for your set-up lets display it openly for all to see? when i get mail w/ wide there is a uniform methode i can use geometricaly. Car/ make/ model/year/cc...must be exact. any mods/ suspension/ height/ type, including arb upgrades. wheel size/ front and rear. problem/ tyre wear/ handling needs/ perfomance/ oversteer/ under / heavy steering/ light. driving style/ motorway%/ town % load / unladen% fully% from this the geometry can be written, and be "personal" ← Here we go: 1) IS300, 12/2003, 3.0L 2) Apexi coilovers, height centre wheel - lip: front 325mm, rear 315mm 3) P-Zero Rosso 225/45/18 front and rear 4) Very slight pull to left, 6mm tread front, rears almost new, handling OK 5) Improved handling, steering neither heavy or light, want to prevent rapid wear due to -ve camber 6) 60% motorway/dual, 40% town/urban 7) Normally just me 88Kg Hope this is OK ← Is #1 correct@ front 325 rear 315? ← Yep, front 325mm rear 315mm +/-1mm Does this sound wrong? but it is real low....piccies in garage
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Tony - I would be grateful for any information on the set-up ← "Sorry!" guys, i know this situation is "pants" but there we go....future plans will involve the "low" club :D "Still" i can help with the set-up. Mr Morse we have spoken via Email and PM, but for your set-up lets display it openly for all to see? when i get mail w/ wide there is a uniform methode i can use geometricaly. Car/ make/ model/year/cc...must be exact. any mods/ suspension/ height/ type, including arb upgrades. wheel size/ front and rear. problem/ tyre wear/ handling needs/ perfomance/ oversteer/ under / heavy steering/ light. driving style/ motorway%/ town % load / unladen% fully% from this the geometry can be written, and be "personal" ← Here we go: 1) IS300, 12/2003, 3.0L 2) Apexi coilovers, height centre wheel - lip: front 325mm, rear 315mm 3) P-Zero Rosso 225/45/18 front and rear 4) Very slight pull to left, 6mm tread front, rears almost new, handling OK 5) Improved handling, steering neither heavy or light, want to prevent rapid wear due to -ve camber 6) 60% motorway/dual, 40% town/urban 7) Normally just me 88Kg Hope this is OK ← Is #1 correct@ front 325 rear 315?
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Tony - I would be grateful for any information on the set-up ← "Sorry!" guys, i know this situation is "pants" but there we go....future plans will involve the "low" club :D "Still" i can help with the set-up. Mr Morse we have spoken via Email and PM, but for your set-up lets display it openly for all to see? when i get mail w/ wide there is a uniform methode i can use geometricaly. Car/ make/ model/year/cc...must be exact. any mods/ suspension/ height/ type, including arb upgrades. wheel size/ front and rear. problem/ tyre wear/ handling needs/ perfomance/ oversteer/ under / heavy steering/ light. driving style/ motorway%/ town % load / unladen% fully% from this the geometry can be written, and be "personal" ← Here we go: 1) IS300, 12/2003, 3.0L 2) Apexi coilovers, height centre wheel - lip: front 325mm, rear 315mm 3) P-Zero Rosso 225/45/18 front and rear 4) Very slight pull to left, 6mm tread front, rears almost new, handling OK 5) Improved handling, steering neither heavy or light, want to prevent rapid wear due to -ve camber 6) 60% motorway/dual, 40% town/urban 7) Normally just me 88Kg Hope this is OK
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Yemgi ... where are your coilovers ;)
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Thanks Scarface, I think calipers will go gold :) AD77, I have white ones but I am not sure I want to put them on Dave, thanks mate, the crazy french man has lots of things to do before JAE, I am not sure I will have timtoo as it is the rush at work :( coilovers installation, manifold change, supercharger installation, new complete paint ...
