Mike246

Now I'm confused. Will the Nicna interface together with Techstream allow me to change the settings?

Oooh! In that case, what do I need to change the settings?

Guys, Thank you all for your prompt replies. Bruce (juicestop) I will take your advice and buy the Nicna model from Amazon. Do you know if by chance, it will also work with my '98 GS300 or my '14 GS250? The GS250 is Carista-compatible so the protocol is clearly mainstream. Mike

Hi all. I am looking to buy an ODB2 interface to associate with my iPhone 6 in order to change settings on my 2011 IS250C. The Carista product does not work with this model which is a shame. Does anyone know if an interface which is proven?

Guys, Thanks for your replies which are most helpful. It seems that the SE-I has smaller 17-inch wheels which maybe give a better ride but the illuminated scuff plates and the wood are a great touch on the SE-L. The rest of the differences I could get to live without. Proving a challenge to find a nice 250C in either model out there with light upholstery and low mileage.

I am looking for an IS250C from around 2010 or 2011. It seems that there are two variants - the SE-I and SE-L. Could one of you guys tell me what the difference is?

Thanks for your advice. I believe that I have found the source of the leak. It seems to be coming from the radiator header seam at the front. When up to running temperature and pressurised I can see water creeping across the seam and dropping on to the front fins. First question: Eurocarparts do a radiator at £ 74 as compared to around £ 300 for the Lexus part. Local garage labour costs will be much cheaper as well. I know it's an old car but would you chance it? Second question: I found today that the aircon is not blowing cold. Coincidence? I think it is. I have not let the car overheat and I can hear the relay kick-in when I operate the aircon override switch. I cannot think of any reason why loss of coolant with frequent top-ups would affect the aircon. The fact is that I cannot remember ever having the system repressurised in 16 years of ownership. Should I have the system repressurised and is the old type (now illegal) gas still available? Mike

Hi. Thanks for your response. I just checked the transmission fluid and have previously check the engine oil. So signs of fluids mixing nor emulsification.

I have a much-loved 1998 GS300SE owned for 16 years which has suddenly started losing cooling fluid. It is losing maybe 1 -2 pints on a 100 mile run and I can't figure out where it is going. No symptoms which could be associated with a head gasket failure and no loss while standing overnight. The top hose seems good as does the visible part of the radiator. No warning lights on, engine runs sweetly and has not overheated. I have renewed the pressure cap and ordered a bottom hose, just in case. Any ideas or experience would be appreciated. This car is my baby and I want to keep it going.

My '98 GS300 Mk2 has dim dipped headlights. The bulbs must be years old. Is it safe to replace with Xenon bulbs? Will they get too hot? What white bulbs would you recommend?

Popped into the dealer and had a chat with the service advisor. An exchange starter motor is £ 213 which is not so bad as it comes with a 1 year warranty. The dealer did not want to get involved with an overhaul kit, even though I would be comfortable doing the work on the motor myself. No surprises there. Either way I would have to pay for 1.5 hours' labour in removing/refitting the starter so I'll let them get on with it. The car may not be worth much (two have gone with less mileage than mine on e-Bay recently at less than £ 1,000 each) but it just sailed through the MOT and runs great. Very little has needed replacement in 14 years' ownership so I can't feel hard done by! Dealer is Lexus Hatfield who are always nice to deal with and honour the LOC discount.

Thanks guys for your valuable input. Tigerfish, it did go through a period of just clicking and I was able to start it be giving the selector a wiggle between Park and Neutral. Therefore I thought it was the Neutral Start (Inhibitor) Switch that was playing up. I do not have the circuit to hand but I don't think a faulty Inhibitor Switch can cause the starter to continuously run. From what you have posted, the Inhibitor Switch is just a red herring . . . . unless I have two faults! I'll speak to the dealer in the morning about cost of the motor replacement vs possible overhaul.

Oh dear. Oh dear. After 14 years and 165,000 trouble-free miles with my '98 GS300 it is sitting in the local supermarket car park awaiting recovery. Got my shopping and loaded in the car. Went to start it and it failed to start. The engine kept turning on the starter motor even with the key out. By the time Lexus Recovery (the AA) showed the battery was totally flattened the the starter terminals rather hot. Simon, the AA man was unable to get me going but did all the right things and importantly, was able to diagnose that the fault is in the starter motor itself, rather than a short in the ignition switch or starter relay. Tomorrow I'll get the car recovered and down to the local Lexus dealer. I guess the answer is a new (maybe it's an exchange) starter motor which should double the value of the car! Any related experience or guidance would be most appreciated.

My trusty 165k GS, owned and cherished for the past 14 years, has developed a cold starting problem. The engine does not turn and just gives a click, as if the battery is flat. Exercising the gear selector between Park and Neutral brings the starter into life. The battery tests out OK and this points to the gearbox inhibitor switch. The Lexus part costs £ 275 plus VAT and fitting which would come to around half the value of the car! Does anyone have any experience of servicing, adjusting or replacing this part?

My '98 GS is parked in the driveway and showing all the signs of a failing central locking control receiver. I have to operate the key button within a few feet of the car and then it is intermittent. What a drag. That's a £700 job including reprogramming on a £700 car which will probaly last for years to come. Now here's the thing. Once the car is out of my driveway and anywhere else, the central locking functions normally. It seems there is something swamping the wireless signal in my immediate vicinity. I have no new radio devices in my house and the 433 MHz band which is used is also available for all sorts of low-range devices as well as amateur radio. Whatever it is, it is radiating continously. Any suggestions will be welcome.

Normally I have no problem maaintaining my GS but this one has got me stumped! My heated rear window has packed up. The dashboard switch operates the lamp and I can hear a relay clicking. The driving mirrors heat up but the rear window is inop. The element in the window does not appear to be damaged. Questions are - anyone else experienced this? - where is the fuse (assuming the driving mirrors are separately fused)? The legends on the two fusebox covers are of no help and the handbook is useless on this. - where is the connector from the rear window to the loom wiring sited? Help will be most appreciated.

Steve, Have a word with Lexus Hatfield. I use them for mainstream servicing on two GSs and always found them to be fair. No quality issues with their work. The cambelt on the 300 is a bit of a sod but not as much as replacing the spark plugs and there is little commonality in the work to accomplish both. The last plug is almost impossible to get to. Having said that, I hope it wasn't Hatfield who gave you the heavy quote!

Certainly on the Mk.2 the painted surface does blister. There was a time when Lexus would do a no-charge swopout for reburbished wheels using an improved process. It's not just cosmetic - the inside surface will be pretty naff as well. There is an alternative which is what I did - replace the wheels with aftermarket ones. The cost can be similar to refurbishment and far less hassle. I went for the Wolfrace Modernas from Rochford Tyres in Essex at a cost of £246 inc tyre refitting, bolts and VAT. Nice people to deal with. http://www.alloywheels.com/search.asp?strSize=all&strSort=Low&btnSubmit=Go&strKeywords=Wolfrace%20GB%20Modena Watch out for wheel retailers who want to charge over the top, for wheels which do not clear the calipers and where the run-out (distance between the mounting holes and the centre-line of the wheel) is inappropriate.

The actuator solonoid may well have failed but it is also possible that the moving parts have rusted up. This does happen. You need to take the door card off to see what's occurring.

Yeah, it's for the remote tyre pressure warning system.

Looking at your ad, I am no doubt that your car is a superb buy for somebody and has every chance of giving further long service. The fact is that it is 12 years old, done 133k miles and uses more fuel than a diesel. This puts it into sub £2k territory. My own '98 GS has done 146,000 and in all respects drives like when it was new. Very little has been replaced and it consumes no oil. It does have leather and satnav but is not as immaculate as your pictures show. Want some good advice? Keep it! I wouldn't give mine away for that sort of money.

Was that Nick Clegg I saw on the news last night being driven off on a Series 3 GS in Alabaster Shale. Maybe I'll reconsider and give him my vote.

The moonroof has travel limiters which may have gone out of sync. A dealer can recalibrate this quite easily. If it does not respond to recalibration, you need a new motor. The motor is behind the overhead switch panel, so no worries about removing the headlining.

Lexus exhausts are legendary for lasting a long time. My '98 GS has done 146,000 miles and no exhaust parts replaced yet. The heat shields (one on either side) are vulnerable but they can be removed without disadvantage as they were on mine. They prevent the heat from being reflected downwards so if you get them taken off, be careful not to park on long dry grass!

The partsman ran it through the computer and it is unavailable in the UK