dazzlar

I have had my 2015 300h from new, and it's looking pretty bad for rust if I'm honest. I'm going to treat and protect as much as I can next summer as I think to not, will cause issues in the next few years. My wife's Kia same age looks immaculate in comparison. I wish I'd treated it sooner.

I change mine every year, and honestly it doesn't need. Pretty sure it states every other year on the Lexus UK website, so they right to do what they are doing. What I find really odd but the other way round is, diff oil every 2 years. Seems way to often... But I'm not brave enough to try let it go longer!

mine came off with no issues, but I did have to adjust it after putting the new disc on.

Good chat guys, maybe I don't need to change the shoes, that would be a bonus, I hate brake shoes. My wife has the E-brake on her car, so much easier. @Colinb623, @HPS13's answer is exactly what I did. I would add when the disc is off, it's worth cleaning the as much as you can pulling the shoes back (while retained on the springs) to clean and regrease any contact points, including the bowden cable for the park brake (taking care not to leave cake it so dirt gets trapped).

@Notamech I've done mine as well, I honestly think this is one of the easiest car's to work on I've ever owned. That said, I have had several stuck slider pins, one was a nightmare to get out, but patience, plenty of penetrating oil and a bit of heat got it out.. The Parking brake (if you are going to do that) needs a tool to remove the retaining pin (although you can manage if you grind a slit into a large flat head screw driver). I would buy a set of replacement slider pins and boots and have them ready if you need the car (I think mine were from a company called big red, I can check and confirm, only like £13 for a set I think, it was a while ago, but I've had no issues with there's, only the Lexus ones have failed). I think it's an M8 bolt to jack the disk off the hub if they are tight. I needed to on mine. Also check the condition of the brake pipe where it is held to the body while in there, my rear was a little corroded, not enough for an MOT fail, but worth checking and protecting before it causes an issue. I checked the material left on the park shoes at 100K, it's not got a lot left, so will be getting changed when I need to do mine next (I suspect I've got about another 10K left on the pads), might be worth doing both if your mileage is similar. there is a good video on park shoe replacement on youtube (for toytota, but it is the same).

oh wow, down at the bottom is really bad, I think I'll be checking mine again, I might have missed that, certainly didn't notice, thanks for posting back, next weekends job!

@IS300FSPORT looks in a lot better condition than mine did. good to see this isn't an inherent issue, hopefully more due to environment / usage. Your under bonnet looks cleaner than the outside of my car, my hose clips are looking heavily corroded where as yours look new. I've got a few DIY projects on, but hopefully I might find a day or 2 to give mine a tidy up once the decent rust convertor arrives. My rear left brake is just starting to stick so another job needed! Wife needs my car early next week, so I fudged it (halfrauds rust converter, zinc primer and some rustolem spray I had left over from painting a fire guard, hopefully it'll last.

@wharfhouse thank you very much for the detailed actually frankly fantastic response. I'm going to get some ordered. @Notamech completely agree with you 'Japanese' car theory, my experience is exactly this. Had a Mazda before the Lexus and that was terrible for rust.. but also amazingly reliable.

I've owned since new, used mainly for long Motorway journeys then parked up while away or when at home (ie 2 big journeys a week only), no flood damage. I live in the hills in the North, so probably exposed to more salt spray than average. The underside isn't great, I treated with waxoyl a few years back, but was thinking of doing lanoguard as part of the service going forward. I was hoping as non cosmetic there might be an easy option with a rust converter or straight to rust type product.

Hi, I recently had to remove the front plastic trim, and the cross member underneath wasn't looking too good. any products people recommend for rust conversion / protection etc. watched a few YouTube videos, but can't seem to get the products the recommend (US market). Was kind of thinking of this from Toolstation (https://www.toolstation.com/rustins-rust-converter-250ml/p97400), but would be nice to hear recommendations. Thanks, Darren.

Apologies if this has been covered, I've searched and seen mentioned in topics, but thought it might be worth posting as a warning to others. When I serviced my car a few weeks back, the bonnet latch didn't feel right, but locked and I was in a rush so thought no more of it. Today, I opened the bonnet and couldn't reclose it due to Bonnet Latch spring 3 failing (https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-3-bonnet-latch-spring-no-3/). Luckily this was on my drive. So the reason I'm sharing, my car has done just over 100K and 9 year old, and I've noticed the corrosion on the spring and latch in the past and greased up and tried to protect it, but it's still failed, looking at posts, I think this is probably the life of the part in the UK so do yourself a favour if you've got an older Lexi, and either order one from somewhere cheap https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/lexus-general/gs-series/AWL10L/1487/body/5303 and do some preventative maintenance or get it changed at your next service. Daz.

I thought the bonnet latch needed attention when I serviced it, but was in a rush so ignored it...

Thank you for replying, that's good to know, yeah, I've done the hybrid filter at 50 and 100K, both times mine was really clean, which I'm surprised at as I'm not particularly car proud, and often fill the car with DIY stuff and rubbish etc. The other thing I've found on mine (sure it's probably mentioned on this forum), is the air filter drain is on top of the body so worth removing the air box and checked for corrosion underneath (salt spay water drains here in winter). I'm thinking about 3d printing a diversion hose so it drains to a more appropriate location if I can be bothered! I've had the car since new, and not sure if I want to replace it, but it's been so good, I don't normally keep them this long, just which it was a bit more practical and exciting.

@Notamech fantastic write up, thank you very much for taking the time to do this. I've just given my car a service now at just under 105,000 miles and thought it's probably about time I gave the throttle body a clean. I'll be doing this, and the MAF clean, so glad to find a guide (not that I expected it to be difficult). How did your PCV valve seem when you removed it. I'm not getting any issues so thinking I leave that, I hardly do any miles since covid and WFH, but maybe if yours looked like it needed it I might just do it for the sake of a few quid.