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Fatbillslim

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Posts posted by Fatbillslim

  1. on this subject I have read things like

    it's recommended that the engine ECU is reset after any engine performance modifications have been made to the vehicle, to accelerate the learning of any new parameters

    E.G after fitting an air filter the car will learn there is more air coming in to the engine (my personal favorite) :rolleyes:

    it will/may improve fuel economy

    it lets the car learn how you drive rather then the previous owner and it will set itself up to suit.

    Please can someone direct me to a reliable source, a book maybe so I can read up and learn all about E.C.M Strategies

  2. would it be possible to have the banks crossed? B1S1 in B2S1 ?

    is it the TRC light that is flashing?

    next time remove the sensor if it is not in the manifold

    the car would see a lean signal if the sensor is in fresh air and cause the car to DUMP fuel in on that bank just unplug next time

  3. looks like clutch judder smells like clutch judder, but it not the cluch??? im open to any other offers at what it could be

    as the flywheels got damping in it (which on a spanner seams quite slack) im thinking i that it could be that

    unless someone has fitted a solid flywheel and still have the same clutch judder after that. i'd like to know

    i tryed reseting the ecu :eerrrmm:

  4. My dad has run many labor Clubs now and had people coming in trying to sell magnets for the beer line, as the magnetic force re-aligns the electrons of the beer, so it does not stick to the lines so you don’t need to clean them as often "YEH RIGHT", the last club he took over had these magnets installed, surprise surprise they made no difference, They are marketed diffrentley, but they dont make fuel burn better either

    ecu-reset, this will reset the catalyst monitoring data and Long and Short Fuel Trim, fuel trim is the adaptation of the ecm for varying sensors and engine efficacy, when the car goes in to closed loop at a given state (load, throttle position, rpm, coolant temp .etc) it expects what the opening time of the injector will be as is changes state, from rich to lean or lean to rich (closed loop) . If the actual opening time is more or less the ecm will add or subtract fuel trim (it learns). what this does is make the car run closer to the correct AFR, if the ecm needs to trim to much it will log a fault and bring on a light . Eg. Bank 1 system too lean. The car will learn very quickly if anything changes.

  5. hi,

    That sort of mileage seems alright for the IS200, but an ECU reset won't hurt things at all.

    You should do a reset if you've changed anything, i.e. added an induction kit, exhaust, etc.

    The Magnet thing is assume is the green things on Ebay. I'm sure there was a thread a couple of days ago that mentioned these and apparently there isn't really much solid proof that they work. But if you feel like being a Guineas pig i'm sure we'd all be interested in the results either way.

    Stav

    why reset the ecu?

  6. My IS has destroyed the inside edge of my tiers at the front,

    I have noted that the lower arm bush has split also on both sides but not split all the way trough.

    And on have an ides of best place to go to replace these and a cost?

    Andrew page (Bolton) said £300 ish each

    The arm with the bush goes from the bottom ball joint to the chassis

    can this be cause of tier Wear

  7. i got an NIP for 68 in a 50 at 10:30 am

    it was to liverpool at the end of th m62 . the moterway regs end with 50mph signs and the cams soon after

    i drove trough at the time on the ticket but i dont think i was going any were near that speed and i didnt see a flash a was shocked when the ticket came trough i was not expecting it ,

    were do i stand with requesting cam calabration/logs/cert's is it worth it, is it a loosing battle taking it to cort i have a clean licence. and want to keep it like that.

  8. Thanks.

    Fatbillslim, did you put a T piece in for your sender? Was there enough room?

    no it dont sound like the big end or mains and it had got good presure just slow build up

    the oil and filter halve the time now jus a cuple of seconds

    and there is not a lot of room near the oil preure switch t'ing will depend on how big the sender for your gauge is my eletronic sender is huge

  9. Where is the oil pressure sender located on the IS200 engine?

    I'm currently in the process of installing an oil pressure gauge and I dont know where to find the sender...

    Thanks

    oil pressure sensor is 3 inch left of the oil filter under the intake manafold

    i have installed a filter today and oil. funny thing is when i blew in the center of the new filter there was a restriction (expected because it had to pass trough the filter elament

    the one i took off there was no rerstriction as if the preasure relef valve had faild/ stuck open??

    and the time it takes in the moring for the light is exataly the same as the time it took after i changed the filter

    the compression is good and the lpg would not attect the oil /oil system.

    will see what happens in the morning

  10. can anyone tell me how long it takes to build oil pressure in the morning it takes a good 5 seconds at least for the light to go out!!

    i had an oil presure gague on and it ok when running but it seames like the oil is draining out of somewere if left stood for 6 hours???

    the cams have got i little tapety to (but i do give it some stick)

    the cars done 80,000

    if the engine gets dammaged a 2nd hand engine will be rare im guessing and a new on will be a few grand allso a guess

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