Newbie777

7 hours ago, Malc1 said:

you've bought an as new originally £110k car and even being a few years old now there's nothing needs upgrading to anything that some might consider even remotely " tacky "

Contentment is often blissful !

Malc

AMalc valid points!

I personally like the feel of it, am still in two minds.

The car is standard and has everything I need, the only  other thing will be the addition of a dashcam front and back.

47 minutes ago, wharfhouse said:

Nope - the car does that while I'm driving. Unless you don't use it regularly you shouldn't need to do anything special. I do about 15k miles a year and my 2014 IS 300h now has 140k miles on it and still on the original 12v battery. And I've left it for 10 days recently without using it and it started just fine. How many more years the battery has left in it I don't know but I have one of the lithium jump packs in the glove box just in case which will get me mobile in a matter of minutes if there is a problem. When the battery finally dies I'll get another fitted and not be worried. You should only need to trickle charge if you leave the car for a few weeks unused and then only do drive a short time before leaving it again for a long time. Regular use of a few hours a week will maintain the 12V battery with no problems. 

Thank you  wharfhouse,,that is re-assuring and one less thing to do.

I did have the connector cables attached to the Battery today, so it would be easy to hook up to the trickle charger, but looks like that will not be needed now -I was worried the Battery may drain with the ML volume turned up.lol 

Hello,

As its winter season, does anyone charge their 12v AGM Battery?

if so, do you just directly  connect the trickle charger, set to AGM and no other changes are  needed?

Thanks

BTW.. mine looks like the original Panasonic Battery

Hello,

I own a ls600hl with rsr package, with black leather interior.

Controversial maybe, but I love the ambient LED lighting on the latest Audi, Merc and other big German cars.

I especially like light blue or light purple colours. I personally think will give a more relaxed experience at night for me.

So it would be the dash, door cards, but not sure about the footwells though.

There is an company who do this for a living in Bolton, so not far away.

Has anyone done this on their Lexus? If so any pics please.

My worry is if affects Battery life and also it needs to fit and look good, not tacky!

2 minutes ago, Malc1 said:

That’s 25 mpg. Wow. That’s brilliant 

👍

Malc 

Thanks Malc,

Very happy with that.

It's winter so expect to see better MPG in summer.

Filled petrol to the top

200 miles of mix motorway and town driving (say 50/50).

AC on , someimes time heated seats and heated steering wheel on. Sometimes car with engine idle (15 mins or more) so driving is as normal as can be,...filled petrol to the top again  and it cost me £49.60 at £1.37.per ([litre)

So is that average 22mpg? Or 25mpg?

Thanks

27 minutes ago, Bluemarlin said:

True. Less of an issue on Toyota/Lexus hybrids though, as the system is programmed to get the engine up to temperature faster, in part by recirculating exhaust gases.

Brilliant, thanks did not know that,  that is why the car reaches optimal temp so quickly.

54 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

Looks fine compared against this original press photo

https://media.lexus.co.uk/images/ls-600h-exterior/#lg=1&slide=5

 

Thank you ColinBarber

2 minutes ago, Spock66 said:

It will darken, but I would not expect black unless it's a diesel.

Have you changed it since your carbon cleaning, maybe that the carbon deposits have contaminated the oil?

Oh thanks for clarifying that,, my oil is brown,checked yesterday so no need to change, my wife car is a diesel and that is black.

7 hours ago, Bluemarlin said:

Much debate, but sadly not much in the way of data.

I'm happy to stick with annual servcing and 12months/10k changes, although I usually do less than 10k.

For the most part that seems to be the norm in UK and Europe, and 6 months/5k more common in the US. I'm not aware though that engines fail more over here than they do in the US,  so it would be interesting to know if there was any data. In the absence of that then annual changes with a good quality synthetic is good for me.

Looking on forums cars seem to mostly die from things like rust, failed tranmissions, or other issues rather than engines failing due to oil change intervals, unless of course people abuse their cars and either leave it way to long or run on low oil..

I think the biggest damage to the engine is upon startup and many people still waiting for their engine to get warm via idle rather than driving straight away.

7 hours ago, GMB said:

It's interesting how 20-50 used to be the de facto standard best quality. Now it seems to be 0-30.

IMO In a watercooled engine the temperature range is not too critical except for cold starts where you need lower viscosity for easy turnover.

Also interesting how fussy BMW used to be on the proper M cars  ( or maybe still are ) for oil during run in and oil changes. Won't bore you with it but BMW were deadly serious about the oil type and pre/post running in if it came to warranty claims.

Amazingly Harley Davidson specialists still recommend 20-50 but then again their engine design is about 100 years old.

I have never noticed much of a difference having used oils from 0-60  to  20-50 SAE. \I just stick to a quality brand.😎

I use Mobil 1, 0w40 in my other car 12.5 litres of it! Following manufacturers guidelines!

7 hours ago, Bluemarlin said:

Much debate, but sadly not much in the way of data.

I'm happy to stick with annual servcing and 12months/10k changes, although I usually do less than 10k.

For the most part that seems to be the norm in UK and Europe, and 6 months/5k more common in the US. I'm not aware though that engines fail more over here than they do in the US,  so it would be interesting to know if there was any data. In the absence of that then annual changes with a good quality synthetic is good for me.

Looking on forums cars seem to mostly die from things like rust, failed tranmissions, or other issues rather than engines failing due to oil change intervals, unless of course people abuse their cars and either leave it way to long or run on low oil..

Maybe it just me, but does the oil colour matter?

When a service is done the oil is clear yellow colour.

The next few days or a few weeks it's brown and after that it is black is that right? 

19 minutes ago, Steven9233 said:

My nipper bought me an ambient light LED strip set for my birthday assuming I have the same taste as he does as a 22 year old , initially I thought “no way “ am I  putting this in my car , came with multiple strips to fit all over the place .  I used one around the centre console , I am pleasantly surprised how nice it looks and somehow modernised the cabin , not as bright in real time as photos suggest due to camera picking up light I guess .  Any opinions ?  Or have I ruined it ? .powered by USB that is near bonnet release fitted by previous owner for something he was using so easy to hide power wires . It looks almost standard and offers rear passengers some ambient in the footwell as installed around bottom of centre arm rest 

Hello, 

Looks cool..

I have a Ls600hl with the rear seat package and am thinking of gettingv t done, love the blue or a light purple perhaps. If its done proper it looks sublime and definitely adds to relaxation.

A guy in Bolton does it all fitted for about £500, includes footwells, which am not sure about doing though.

On 11/13/2023 at 5:50 PM, ColinBarber said:

Carista is good and user friendly, just expensive if you keep the subscription going. Many people just use the free month with the dongle to set up customisations and then just subscribe for a month as and when you need to use it for fault finding.

Brill, thanks,  used it, so will end free trial and use it when need it, great for TPMS

1 hour ago, BigBoomer said:

Niaz, it might help if you posted a photo of your LS600h taken side on with the camera close to the ground.
When you look or take photo from "normal" height your perspective is fooled by the shapes of the wings and arches and body lines.
I have just looked at 20+ side on photos of LS460/600 and all of those that were unmodified were pretty much dead level, much like the one in the photo I shared.

Here you go

1 hour ago, BigBoomer said:

Niaz, it might help if you posted a photo of your LS600h taken side on with the camera close to the ground.
When you look or take photo from "normal" height your perspective is fooled by the shapes of the wings and arches and body lines.
I have just looked at 20+ side on photos of LS460/600 and all of those that were unmodified were pretty much dead level, much like the one in the photo I shared.

Sorry I use my mobile and find it difficult to attach a photo, have to find it in files, but will try again now.

Yes I think now that I know the wheel arches are of a different shape, ir makes the difference.

2 hours ago, Razor61 said:

There's much debate about how often to change the oil and filter.
I change the oil and filter every 6 months on my LS400 and IS250 or after 5k miles, whichever comes first but I don't do 5k miles in either car so it's every 6 months.

Thanks, everyone has their own way, I used to do 20,000 miles on my Audi and it was fine (using long life oil), doing every 6 months is also good too, but for me I am happy to do once a year and the oil will cover my mileage of 5k to 7k.

If I was doing motorway miles I would look at 10k or still once a year.

As long a its done regularly, that's the main thing.

2 hours ago, BigBoomer said:

If it's like the LS430, then it is an optical illusion.
Most cars are slightly higher at the rear to compensate for squat under acceleration.
You can't compare front and rear wheel arches as they are different.
If yours is genuinely lower at the rear, then you have suspension issues.

Yes I have been comparing wheel arches and it may be an illusion, if they are different!

2 hours ago, BigBoomer said:

If it's like the LS430, then it is an optical illusion.
Most cars are slightly higher at the rear to compensate for squat under acceleration.
You can't compare front and rear wheel arches as they are different.
If yours is genuinely lower at the rear, then you have suspension issues.

OK, so far most pics I have seen for the ls are lower at the bac.

My ride is not affected at all and no fault codes, no leaks.

How do I know if there is an issue with the rear suspension?

Hello, isit normal for the rear of the car to be lower than the front?

If so, is this to do with the hybrid batteries?

My car is a 2010 LS600hl.

Thaks

Colder weather this morning and started up with no noise or vibration.

This may sound stupid, but I replaced both air filters (did this myself) and took off the plastic engine cover, a day after the vibration/rattle noise, I noticed cover was not on right, I wonder if this was the issue, will wait for the cold weather and see.

Thanks, the link is from Opie Oils who are brill. The car is currently using 5w30 and runs great, with my high mileage and wear and tear I think I will leave the 0w 20 option and now not worth pursuing other options, just need to change he oil once a year. 

Runs smoother and quieter, along with new air filters, mpg has improved too, on motorway  now showing an average of around 30mog at 70mph

14 hours ago, NemesisUK said:

Do this with the switch on the door in question

Thanks for this. will hold on to these instructions for next time as now have it working

14 hours ago, Neilo said:

Hi

Roll the window all the way down.

Roll the window all the way up keeping the switch up until you hear a click (could be as long as 12 seconds for it to click).

Roll all the way down and keep the switch down,wait for the click.

Roll all the way up and again wait for the click - should be reset.

 

Thanks, tried this and I think it how Works, did not hear the clicks though!