santeri

I'm back again, unfortunately, Parcel Force was messing about with my package for so long and I finally got it today, but, the ECU swap didn't do the trick, still no ignition. So I'm back to doing the immo kit... Linas, looking through my saved post regarding this fix I came across something which I'd like to pick your brains about if you don't mind: I'm assuming it's this panel that gives access to the PCB. If so, do you just pry it out? And would this be done without messing with the shear-off bolts that hold the steering lock in place?

Glad to hear that. Following your advice, I order the ECU for a whopping price of £15(+shipping) from eBay. Same P/N and even the subpartnumber. It should arrive tommorow, I'll post the update.

Thank you. For anyone who might stumble upon this thread, my symptoms are still the same as Neville's, and I haven't changed the immo kit yet. Now the good/bad news: I had access to an original Alientech tool, so I tired to do bench read/write of the ECU. I couldn't even get it to identify the ECU, so I think it's safe to think the ECU is dead in this case. ECU kits are easier to come by then the Immo kits, but now the questions is which components are coded to it and need to be changed together, like in the case of immobiliser replacement. I will update once I figure it out.

Mine is manual. I found some videos on getting the steering wheel off, doesn't seem too bad compared to some other cars.

All clear, thanks Linas. Any tips on getting the plastic steering wheel cover off to access the steering lock? (I'd rather not take the steering wheel off but it seems like I'll have to) My steering wheel is currently locked in a straight position, blocking the two bolts that hold the cover in place.

Hi Linas, I'm still in the process of getting the parts. I read back all the info I gathered and there's still something that's not clear to me. So for my sake and everyone else's who might have to go through this, could you please list all the parts you replaced from the same donor? At this point I'm certain about: Keys ID Code Box Steering Lock SmartKey Module Double Door Lock ECU? Gateway ECU? BCM? Power Source Control ECU?

No worries. Thank you very much for going in depth with this. I think I almost have all the info that I need now to tackle this. Did you only confirm that you SmartKey module had the same part number as your donor car, or did you replace it as well? I will likely go to a scrapyard for the parts, as none of the current ECU kit listings on eBay have the ID box included. (I might ask them to include it though) The dash is halfway removed already, so I will first have a look at the ID box, hoping there's a PCB issue that can be fixed like in Neville's case, instead of replacing the kit. Wish me luck 😬

Did you not need the steering column as well, as it has it's own module? I read this was the case and I'd be happy if it's not true. Could you please elaborate on this, just to be certain. Does it mean that if for example my SmartKey P/N is "123", the other one has to be "123" as well, or do the modules need to have some matching numbers between themselves? Thanks for confirming that. I pray that it's actually the start button that's faulty 😄 Finally, would you be able to confirm if the first post from here is accurate where it says that you can perform "handshake" between SmartKey+immo and the ECU, when putting in a replacement ECU? (not saying I need one at this point) https://www.clublexus.com/forums/maintenance/854715-used-ecu-swapping-and-programming-to-immobilizer.html

Apologies for the ramble, I just realised I unnecessarily reiterated many things you said in your last reply. Got me thinking, in a working car, if you enter it without a key and try to start it (or go to acc), will it always say "no key detected " or will it just stay dead?

Thanks. All the fuses have been checked already apparently (not by me). Press fob to Start button also didn't yield results. I thought about no power to ignition, but my reasoning is that power condition can't be varifed until the immobiliser fault (transponder really) is out of the equation, which would allow for the power to come in, as I'm not getting an amber light on the button or any other. I also don't get the "key not detected" message. So my opinion is that from the cars current pov, the key just isn't in the car. Edit: forgot to mention that the dash actually has some life in it, it allows me to cycle through on/off option for disabling that particular security feature, can't remember the name of it unfortunately, there's a dedicated button for it. My biggest hurdle in deciding whether to mess with this, is that while researching this issue, I've seen many people claiming that Lexues won't allow you to replace individual modules, and that you need to get the full ECU+immo+key+BCM etc. kit. Is this correct, and how did you go about it in your case? Any dealership programming involved?

Forgot to add, even the power seats are working, while the ignition isn't.

Thank you for the prompt reply! My situation is pretty much the same as throughout the thread, the car has been left to sit for a while and now doesn't want to even turn the accessories on. Remote locking works, but no lights on the Start button, no matter if the clutch/brake are pressed. Security light flashing. Normal voltage on the battery. New batteries in both fobs. Not possible to read OBD2 (small floorlight next to it does work though) Do you think the ID could be the culprit? Edit: 2006 IS220D

Hi, could you please tell me if this was accessible by just removing the head unit and the vents, or did the whole dashboard had to come off?