Notamech

Multiple errors out of nowhere is most likely a bad 12v battery. Even if it shows 12+ v at rest it can at times drop under load. So maybe try charging it first. Also no codes are needed if you disconnect and reconnect the battery

Buy leather paint. I have re-painted my seats completely with this and a sponge. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Leather-Paint-painting-all-leathers/dp/B08NXL5393/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=3T4MRL1CSUBM2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.pj1j9p7Ou_IeZvE31EzLRix6mH7LgZegqX0x5SovQNOutEof-yvjYxtZf4t3XfkqBC1Gxd4pGtES0NJgoz073Vb3mBtaXnrosnWYY6tQgNXIAUZTxVz7Z9kdyxO746iyVVztounI_NMxBzEyk95O9-3zoV362J9zsmBKg3YxVc3owYLCwRpgChZuRcNnlImRV2SzHcRjhOYoq3CjxqqiKA.IM50EmzYQvASK0KZr4AzLOt5yGw_MWJv8pI3Yvyvx5E&dib_tag=se&keywords=leather+pai+nt&qid=1723381758&sprefix=leather+pai+t%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Thanks...yeah i have an idea of what i want to do wrt rust proofing and brakes. Am doing the wifes jazz this weekend so should be good practice. Also seen videos on how to do it for toyota / lexus with a drum parking brake set up on the rear. I dont plan to touch the drum set up as it appears to be difficult to put back will only be replacing the disks and pads. I know you did your front brakes recently with EBC. How do you find them so far? Also did you get a light on the dash from pushing the pistons back in?

Is there a guide you are aware of on how to change the bulbs. I plan to do it too before winter along with rear brakes and rust proofing.

Just FYI the IS 300h does not have a traditional auto gearbox but an e-cvt and hence does not have a torque converter. It has a clutch that looks visually similar to a manual transmission clutch except it is bolted to the flywheel and is permanently "locked" as far as i know. Its function is to only work as a damper rather than a clutch. Especially because whenever the engine is running the transmission is also always spinning. Even if its not outputting power to the wheels its charging the battery. Heres a full video on how it works. https://youtu.be/vHc-_E8xWnM?si=mbnjE8pj0xCu2FL1

The link to the part i purchased is in the description. However i am not 100% sure if it works for f-sport models as they have a different display. I didn't do any calibration in the video but later on realised that on the front the pressure was displaying for the wrong tyres but i just swapped the wheels around. Here is the full thread where others have managed to calibrate the module. https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/132372-digital-lcd-display-tyre-pressure-module/#comments Also as a side note I highly recommend getting the auto mirror folding module as well it folds your mirror every time you lock the car. Only thing is you need to press lock twice. But i find it very useful.

I think only some higher trim levels get a tyre pressure display on the dash. The rest of us have to install the module if we want. I have done an installation video on youtube. Its fairly easy

This one can be hard to diagnose if you've already done balancing and have ruled out the tyre being out of round. Out of curiosity how did they make sure your tyres are not out of round? If the vibration is at certain speeds only it does infact sound like a balancing issue. I had this on a previous car and no one was able to diagnose it too in the end i took a punt and just got new branded tyres to replace the cheap ones the dealer put on it. Fixed the issue for me. If your tyres are cheap chinese ones they're most likely out of round.

So finally had a look at mine today and surprise surprise it was badly rusted. Much worse than yours i would say. Wanted to thank you for making this post else i wouldn't know to check under there. Also noticed the "floor" below the radiator / ac condenser or whatever is also badly rusted. I always assumed the floor in the engine bay was just a plastic splash guard but guessing some of it is not. Now im scared to look under the car to see how bad it must be. For now i just brushed off whatever was loose and sprayed it with janolite as thats what i had i also have a janolite lacquer which i will spray on top once the rust converter dries. Hopefully this will hold for the next 3-4 years after which i hope to switch.

Look on ebay for used parts from breakers and then you can watch youtube and do it yourself its very easy. But if you dont want to then look for a local garage willing to fit it for you.

Heres an old thread. This guy managed to restore his old one. Might be worth a try if things arent broken. But for <£20 i agree might be worth just replacing it.

I haven't had a look under the car or under the plastic trim yet but have above average rust under the bonnet too. But having looked at yours i think im going to look under the plastic trim this weekend. My bonnet latch is also badly rusted. when cleaning the hybrid fan i seen spots of rust similar to yours under the plastic trim in the boot. Also my brake dust shields are quite rusty too. It could be because one of the previous owners lived along the coast. I have used jenolite rust converter to treat what i could. It can be sprayed directly on rust which is good as i cant be bothered to sand stuff down. Even the wifes jazz seems very rusty underneath and under the bonnet. Maybe its a japanese car thing. As my previous Mercedes was new looking under the bonnet at the same age and mileage as my IS. I plan to do both cars soon. Will use something that can be applied by brush rather than a spray as spraying stuff underneath the car when its on a jack stands rather than a lift in a garage is difficult. Especially with wind blowing it everywhere. I would also like to know what rust converters people have used in the past and is that enough or do we need to seal it with something else like a lacquer or something?

Totally understand. Even i struggle to think of what to buy next. My usage is also very low <5k a year so might just drive this till the wheels fall off but on the other hand i do feel the need to experience something new..so might move to an NX 300 or GS450 in a couple of years depending on my needs at the time.

Yeah you can leave the pcv valve. I did it for good measure as advice on the internet seems to suggest that its good to change it at 30k i guess thats probably true in the us or other places for other brands. The old pcv valve that came out was still good and rattled like it should. A more important DIY is to clean your hybrid fan and filter its important for your battery health and when i did mine at around 93k or something it was super dirty and cleaning it felt worth it.

You can connect an aftermarket one to the factory wiring loom also. You dont need to run the wires through the panels. I have done it. Its super easy and no need to drill holes or splice any factory wires.

Yeah exactly right...its more of a feel good thing. Like whenever i buy a new used car i change all the fluids because thats just what i do...theres no rational reasoning other than i feel good that everything has been done. Even if they have receipts for services they've done i will still go ahead and do it again anyway because it makes the car feel "new" to me. So you can absolutely go ahead and change oil earlier but its definitely not needed as you probably will have moved on to something else long before the engine needs an overhaul.

Honestly in my life being on various car forums and knowing people who are car enthusiasts, I have not even once heard of anyones engine going kaput because they followed the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals. I feel like everything else around the engine starts to fall apart on older cars before people finally give up on them. As someone else said before, engine and lube tech has gotten to a stage that they can keep going quite long between changes and on hybrids the IC engine pretty much has an easy life with the electric motor doing all the heavy lifting of moving the car from a standstill. Thats why you see priuses that look like junk mended together with parts from breakers still going strong.

The specified service intervals are the minimum needed for the warranty to be valid. You can surely get more oil changes done elsewhere or by yourself. Also even if a fault occurs with lubrication it would be interesting to see how they would go about pinning it on you ..unless you make it very obvious by using aftermarket parts like a filter insert.

Relax is definitely worth it. The price difference in servicing costs is marginal vs say an indie. For that marginal difference you get an additional year of warranty on most critical parts plus as most lexuses are hybrids you get a hybrid health check which gives a year of additional warranty on the hybrid system as well. On the IS sub forums i have read of people who have used relax to replace waterpumps, seized brake calipers and also fix issues with ac servo motors which is an expensive dashboard out job. While typically lexuses dont go wrong when they do they do cost a lot to fix. Also refurbing all your wheels for £400 is a no brainer vs getting a new one under warranty only to have the same issue a few years down the line.

Just be aware the running costs in terms of annual tax on those cars is in the 400s. And fuel consumption is quite high on a 2.5l v6 but otherwise generally speaking theyre good cars. You will need to check them out personally for mechanical integrity rust etc.

Yeah not sure why that is. Like you say it could be the dashcam. I never use DAB as i couldn't figure it out. I know theres a post somewhere on this forum on how to set it up. Il take a look one of these days. But i feel like DAB uses a different antenna and not the in glass one so might probably be a bit better. Most of the time i just use bluetooth with spotify so not an issue...but the few times i have used fm it hasnt been great in the city. But on motorways its fine. Likely due to less buildings and a stronger signal.

In my experience the antenas being built into the rear windscreen doesn't work well. Even in London i have found my FM reception to be spotty. And im sure its just this car because its much better on the wifes jazz and has never been spotty on my previous cars.

Not sure what you mean. The oil pan is right at the bottom of the engine which is why companies provide dip sticks to check the level. Typically it wont be visible from the fill hole which is right at the top. What you see is just residual oil that has fallen on the internal parts when pouring it in. It should not pool or collect.

Yeah its definitely worth paying for the warranty and hybrid cover that comes with servicing at lexus. My understanding is that lexus have service centres that are attached to a dealerships And they also operate only workshops like the kind i ended up going to. These are not affiliated with a dealership but are still authorised toyota lexus workshops and if you go to one of these your warranty still remains valid.

100% agree with this. The IS300H is super simple to work on. Even the jazz is a bit difficult at times because of space constraints but for me that car is beyond the point where its economical to take it to a garage so i am going to have to learn to fix things myself. The IS300H on the other hand still has some warranty left on it and thi year will probably be the last time i take it to lexus for routine maintenance. But a couple of things i am still not 100% confident doing on the IS300H are a brake bleed / differential oil / CVT oil as these need the car to be on a level surface and ideally lifted on all 4 corners which i cant do with my current set up.