Notamech

Let me know how it goes. I plan to do my rears as well but am a bit scared frankly and coulduse tips from people who have done it. I did rears on the wifes jazz recently and it was a complete nightmare. I didn't anticipate bolts being stuck. I managed to break the slide pin bolt with half of it stuck in the slide pin. Had to urgently source a replacement over the weekend. Another issue was lack of space - there was no space to fit a socket to undo the carrier bracket bolts and you need decent leverage to undo these. Then i stripped the screws that hold the disc and they had to be drilled out. Fortunately I dont think lexus uses screws to hold the disc so that should make it a bit easier. Overall The fronts were so much easier and a breeze to do vs the rears. So haven't yet attempted doing the rears on my is300h yet.

We shouldn't have to pay an annual VED at all in my opinion. The basics of our civic systems taught to us in school seem to tell us that revenue from taxes are used for our benefit. Well i pay income tax, council tax, VAT, annual VED, insurance premium tax and maybe a few other types of taxes for very little benefit...the roads I drive on are average at best. The NHS is a complete **** show. So what benefit am i really getting that the several other taxes I am paying for dont already cover? They should at least give me basic third party insurance for my annual VED. It is this sort of thievery that drives people to evade taxes.

Just to double check are all the tyres the same size? I think on the is200t the rear tyres are meant to be thicker 255/40 18 and 225/40 18 on the front. If so theyre not meant to be rotated. Not sure if having those on the front now means they're fouling something. As someone suggested try swapping them back and see if that resolves the issue.

It could be because a connector is loose or corroded making intermittent contact.

I would recommend doing it. Its not that hard. All you need is a ratchet set a flat head screwdriver or a plastic trim removal tool. I did mine at 90k and it was very dirty i pulled out a large clump of crud which was composed of hair and dust. But @wharfhouse is right in saying that if airflow is reduced you will get an error on the dash saying hybrid cooling function low or something to that effect. Whether to do it or not is completely down to personal preference and your situation. If you plan to sell the car after 3-5 years and just do normal 10k a year dont ferry around too many people in the back you will most likely be fine and can wait until 15 years are up and you no longer have a warranty on the battery. To some people the car is a tool and its fine to treat it like that. To others its a hobby and they tend to pamper it a bit more.

Have a look at the service manual here. Sometimes the code might point to other problems such as with the wiring harness or the ac amplifier. http://zatonevkredit(blocked word)/repair_manuals/viewdoc_html/AWHuj7EURvZszzJrV4Yg/AWHuk8H7RvZszzJrV56j

Its the same for me in London. I paid around 1k this year for my wife and I. 5k annual mileage only social domestic and pleasure. No claims so far. And this is on a 2014 model valued at <10k. If i check insurance for a similar nx300 for example it is 800ish. My previous merc e class was the same i.e 800ish. Our jazz with business insurace is 650ish. Its as if the value of the car itself forms a very low proportion of their calculation.

A trick to ensure that the oil "catches" on the dipstick vs just flow away is to rough up the portion between the 2 dots with some sandpaper or a scouring pad. Clean it thoroughly before putting back. Also i have noticed that to read the dipstick correctly you have to look at the top side i.e the side thats facing the engine. The underside rubs againt the bent tube when pulling out and smears the oil.

Do you know if this was ever re-gassed before? Asking as a lot of local centres will fill it back up with the wrong compressor oil. Given its an electric compressor it needs a special non conductive oil.

Multiple errors out of nowhere is most likely a bad 12v battery. Even if it shows 12+ v at rest it can at times drop under load. So maybe try charging it first. Also no codes are needed if you disconnect and reconnect the battery

Buy leather paint. I have re-painted my seats completely with this and a sponge. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Leather-Paint-painting-all-leathers/dp/B08NXL5393/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=3T4MRL1CSUBM2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.pj1j9p7Ou_IeZvE31EzLRix6mH7LgZegqX0x5SovQNOutEof-yvjYxtZf4t3XfkqBC1Gxd4pGtES0NJgoz073Vb3mBtaXnrosnWYY6tQgNXIAUZTxVz7Z9kdyxO746iyVVztounI_NMxBzEyk95O9-3zoV362J9zsmBKg3YxVc3owYLCwRpgChZuRcNnlImRV2SzHcRjhOYoq3CjxqqiKA.IM50EmzYQvASK0KZr4AzLOt5yGw_MWJv8pI3Yvyvx5E&dib_tag=se&keywords=leather+pai+nt&qid=1723381758&sprefix=leather+pai+t%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Thanks...yeah i have an idea of what i want to do wrt rust proofing and brakes. Am doing the wifes jazz this weekend so should be good practice. Also seen videos on how to do it for toyota / lexus with a drum parking brake set up on the rear. I dont plan to touch the drum set up as it appears to be difficult to put back will only be replacing the disks and pads. I know you did your front brakes recently with EBC. How do you find them so far? Also did you get a light on the dash from pushing the pistons back in?

Is there a guide you are aware of on how to change the bulbs. I plan to do it too before winter along with rear brakes and rust proofing.

Just FYI the IS 300h does not have a traditional auto gearbox but an e-cvt and hence does not have a torque converter. It has a clutch that looks visually similar to a manual transmission clutch except it is bolted to the flywheel and is permanently "locked" as far as i know. Its function is to only work as a damper rather than a clutch. Especially because whenever the engine is running the transmission is also always spinning. Even if its not outputting power to the wheels its charging the battery. Heres a full video on how it works. https://youtu.be/vHc-_E8xWnM?si=mbnjE8pj0xCu2FL1

The link to the part i purchased is in the description. However i am not 100% sure if it works for f-sport models as they have a different display. I didn't do any calibration in the video but later on realised that on the front the pressure was displaying for the wrong tyres but i just swapped the wheels around. Here is the full thread where others have managed to calibrate the module. https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/132372-digital-lcd-display-tyre-pressure-module/#comments Also as a side note I highly recommend getting the auto mirror folding module as well it folds your mirror every time you lock the car. Only thing is you need to press lock twice. But i find it very useful.

I think only some higher trim levels get a tyre pressure display on the dash. The rest of us have to install the module if we want. I have done an installation video on youtube. Its fairly easy

This one can be hard to diagnose if you've already done balancing and have ruled out the tyre being out of round. Out of curiosity how did they make sure your tyres are not out of round? If the vibration is at certain speeds only it does infact sound like a balancing issue. I had this on a previous car and no one was able to diagnose it too in the end i took a punt and just got new branded tyres to replace the cheap ones the dealer put on it. Fixed the issue for me. If your tyres are cheap chinese ones they're most likely out of round.

So finally had a look at mine today and surprise surprise it was badly rusted. Much worse than yours i would say. Wanted to thank you for making this post else i wouldn't know to check under there. Also noticed the "floor" below the radiator / ac condenser or whatever is also badly rusted. I always assumed the floor in the engine bay was just a plastic splash guard but guessing some of it is not. Now im scared to look under the car to see how bad it must be. For now i just brushed off whatever was loose and sprayed it with janolite as thats what i had i also have a janolite lacquer which i will spray on top once the rust converter dries. Hopefully this will hold for the next 3-4 years after which i hope to switch.

Look on ebay for used parts from breakers and then you can watch youtube and do it yourself its very easy. But if you dont want to then look for a local garage willing to fit it for you.

Heres an old thread. This guy managed to restore his old one. Might be worth a try if things arent broken. But for <£20 i agree might be worth just replacing it.

I haven't had a look under the car or under the plastic trim yet but have above average rust under the bonnet too. But having looked at yours i think im going to look under the plastic trim this weekend. My bonnet latch is also badly rusted. when cleaning the hybrid fan i seen spots of rust similar to yours under the plastic trim in the boot. Also my brake dust shields are quite rusty too. It could be because one of the previous owners lived along the coast. I have used jenolite rust converter to treat what i could. It can be sprayed directly on rust which is good as i cant be bothered to sand stuff down. Even the wifes jazz seems very rusty underneath and under the bonnet. Maybe its a japanese car thing. As my previous Mercedes was new looking under the bonnet at the same age and mileage as my IS. I plan to do both cars soon. Will use something that can be applied by brush rather than a spray as spraying stuff underneath the car when its on a jack stands rather than a lift in a garage is difficult. Especially with wind blowing it everywhere. I would also like to know what rust converters people have used in the past and is that enough or do we need to seal it with something else like a lacquer or something?

Totally understand. Even i struggle to think of what to buy next. My usage is also very low <5k a year so might just drive this till the wheels fall off but on the other hand i do feel the need to experience something new..so might move to an NX 300 or GS450 in a couple of years depending on my needs at the time.

Yeah you can leave the pcv valve. I did it for good measure as advice on the internet seems to suggest that its good to change it at 30k i guess thats probably true in the us or other places for other brands. The old pcv valve that came out was still good and rattled like it should. A more important DIY is to clean your hybrid fan and filter its important for your battery health and when i did mine at around 93k or something it was super dirty and cleaning it felt worth it.

You can connect an aftermarket one to the factory wiring loom also. You dont need to run the wires through the panels. I have done it. Its super easy and no need to drill holes or splice any factory wires.

Yeah exactly right...its more of a feel good thing. Like whenever i buy a new used car i change all the fluids because thats just what i do...theres no rational reasoning other than i feel good that everything has been done. Even if they have receipts for services they've done i will still go ahead and do it again anyway because it makes the car feel "new" to me. So you can absolutely go ahead and change oil earlier but its definitely not needed as you probably will have moved on to something else long before the engine needs an overhaul.