Notamech

Just curious what that means? So its not one where we can track stuff online ourselves? We need to call and provide a code and they track the car but will do it only once? But why do they need to change the hardware once they've tracked it? Any idea?

Its your call but i wouldnt buy it if i were you 1- its overpriced you can get 2014 f sport with <100k miles cheaper elsewhere only thing you wont get the warranty. 2- The stereo is broken on the left in that last pic. This would be the dealbraker for me. For common issues please use google search it should bring up results from this forum. This question gets asked everyday and has been answered loads.

This same thing happened to me. But they gave me a different excuse (out of stock). In my opinion that excuse of its up to the garages is a lie. If it was an item just meant for inspection the service manual would say "inspect" not replace. If it says replace for that specific interval and they charge you the fixed price they MUST replace it. I kick up a fuss and threaten them with bad reviews and a complain to lexus.

Check to see what all is meant to be included at that particular mileage service for your car. Some dealers are absolute cheats. I had a major service done to my IS a couple of years ago at lexus Twickenham and a differential oil change was listed as one of the things that they were meant to do for the price at an 80k service. But they didn't do it and went on to pretend like everything was fine and all service items were done. When i questioned them about why its not on the invoice...thats when they were like ooh yeat btw we didnt do that because we didnt have the oil in stock. I insisted that it needs doing as its on the list of items to be done at an 80k service and i paid for it so i want it. Come again another day and we'll do it is what they said. I was livid....if they didnt do it because of oil not being in stock isnt it their duty to tell me upfront when they were talking me through the jobs theyve done and issued me with an invoice? Why did they only tell me about the oil not being in stock once i caught that it wasnt done? Had i not caught it they would have gone on like everything was ok.

This looks like one that meets your criteria but not sure of its lexus history. If it wasnt serviced at lexus last that would mean spending at least 350 for a minor service to start the relax warranty. I just found my dream car... Search for yours https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202409033602092?advertising-location=at_cars&aggregatedTrim=Premier&atmobcid=soc5&fromsra&make=Lexus&model=IS&sort=price-asc&year-from=2012

People here have done 150-200k miles with no major issues. So if you do go down that route i think you will be fine. If you want peace of mind you can buy official lexus warranty for up to 150k miles but it comes at a charge of some £600 or so. If you find a vehicle for a little more money but which is under 10 years and under 100k miles and if it has been serviced by lexus then it will have the lexus relax warranty. So it may work out better in case you find such a vehicle for maybe 11-11.5k

You might still get if free of cost if you get pushy. If you're too nice and polite i have come to realise people walk over you at times especially when it comes to money. You should be a bit more agressive. Say it was fine when i brought it in and you guys broke it so you need to replace it. Else you will be raising it with lexus and will leave them a bad review.

Dont pay £40 i bet you can buy a used one cheaper on ebay. I got a near perfect one for £10. Using an authorised Lexus workshop is pretty useless sometimes. But were forced to for the warranty. Some of them are just as bad as an uninformed indie. I had shims installed on my brake pads as the previous owner threw them away. But recently when i did my brakes myself i seen they used the wrong grease on the shims. The original shims i gave them came with the original toyota grease for shims which they didnt use but instead used copper grease which is not meant for brake parts. I expected better from an official workshop. Moving forward i have decided to do most work myself where possible. Its super annoying because i paid them £150 or something assuming they knew what they are doing.

While reliable, do ensure you do some sort of rustproofing if you plan to keep the car long-term as these lexuses and other japanese cars love to rust. Especially if they're built in Japan.

Some components like the brake disc dust guards and the small exposed portion of brake line that connects to the flex hose as well as the lower control arms i painted with hammerite direct to rust. It has a nice thick finish. But doing the whole underbody is going to be way too much for me so some components i just sprayed / brushed rust converter and plan to again next year and hope the car lasts the 5 years i plan to keep it without issues. I really want to paint the whole brake lines as i am not sure if the lines that run along the underbody have a protective sleeve or are exposed i couldn't see clearly. Does anyone know if i should be fine just painting the ends that connect to the flex hose as i had an advisory last year on the MOT saying brake lines starting to corrode but i dont know if they mean the full line that runs under the car or just the few cm of exposed line at the ends where it mwets the flex hose.

Its the same on my 10 year old IS that lived in Newcastle most of its life. I have recently started treating the rust with jenolite rust converter that can be left on and doesnt need to be painted over..but its a very difficult job to do on jackstands..especially if you only have only 2. Also painted the disc dust guards as if these rust enough it can be an mot fail. Forget the underside even under the engine bay it was really bad as somone else pointed out its probably a japanese thing. Its the same on my wifes jazz. Also i dont think comparing it to rust on discs is fair as the discs are exposed steel where as most of the underbody is supposedly treated and painted. Heres a pic of what the crossmember under the engine bay looked like.

New ones are £86 from lexus see the link i posted above. Far too expensive for just a rubber mat.

Yeah the ones on ebay are "tailored" so theyre specific to the model. They do lock in place with the clips but they do have a strong rubber smell that will takes a while to go. When i bought my car used i had only the original front rubber mats so bought the entire set of aftermarket ones for £20 on ebay the rears are argubly better than the originals because they even cover the transmission hump at the back. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385759619160 The original ones in my opinion are a royal waste of money at around £86 or so theyre nothing special other than the fact that they have a lexus logo on them. Its just a mat in the end. https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-rubber-mats-2013-onwards/

I put EBC on the front got them for £157 on fleabay. For the rear i went originals £189. Neither kits came with any of the fitting kit or anti rattle shims so if your previous disc / pads were original then you can re-use those shims/ fitting kit. Some aftermarket pads come with shims but the EBC ultimax2 that i bought didnt. Also i use pro-slip grease from amazon it has 3 tubes of grease one for the slide pins, one for pads and one for the clips etc. I highly recommend the grease its good and is the correct one for toyota as far as I am aware.

Awesome. I did the fronts today. One issue I ran into was that the rubber bush at the end of the top slide pin was swollen leading to it being extremely difficult to pull the slide pin out. Then later it was super tight going back in so i just removed it. So far doesnt seem like it has lead to any squeaks or rattles. Does anyone know if it will cause any issues down the line? Im sure its there for a reason but was wondering if anyone faced issues without it.

I second this...my trips are exactly this short and with a 2.0 Mercedes e class diesel in winter i seen around 24mpg where as with the is300h in winter its around 34ish. In summer i get 47-50mpg but to be fair i do way more motorway longer trips in the summer so im sure that helps .

I get that the genuine ones have their own appeal but i highly recommend the is300h rubber mats you can find on ebay theyre just £20 or so and do the same job just as effectively.

Wow looks interesting. The 2.0 litre version appears to put out as much power as our IS. I reckon the prius is a lot lighter so should feel quite fast.

Yeah i think on the top most variant things remained the same or improved e.g. radar cruise control as standard vs regular cruise control on the older models. But as someone pointed out the lower trim levels lost things like BSM as standard. Also i think the post 2015 models have the new vulnerable CANBUS design.

To be fair i think lexus's sporty sedans fair well with us used car buyers. Not so much in the new car market. As someone willing to drop 40-50k on a sporty car would probably just buy a BMW as they do sporty really well. Sure German cars are not as reliable but generally they do run touble free for the first few years at least. I think financial viablity is what drove lexus to pull the IS. No manufacturer would pull a model if it were selling well.

Anecdotally i hear the 2012 - 2015 versions are the best. They had better handling and more features. I think things like blind spot monitoring etc were no longer standard on 2016+ models.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326140030132?_nkw=GS450H+radiator&itmmeta=01J6D6WEWHNK86SK8EDQ69HDTZ&hash=item4bef75ecb4:g:YlwAAOSw4bFmUleT&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlupKhUHm%2B0JRqSKxTkutisVFqnrNmuI%2BUFjjgKZk0cUPjop98AC65%2FUcBvjsbjQiJMRh1kdZje22rd3CxpRijCgatHUzLnwjG4buPCvUAChxMBNCRg3WM8uDHFBgCHW48eLxUN58snwLCe9zChSLRL%2BMiwPoP4OR4KcJPwpREIoDvndOITvjvv%2FemThrvJ6BFhPvsoHWe4dXz4JUVyaQdsqPRwmW3u7ChLN2t05vLDkpANsN7oNbyvIqxdEqGa59sNQPSK0DV21IIZZnf0XS66PGC3PP%2BifGnRRXG%2B92V%2B7A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR67u8aazZA Here you go. Not sure if its the same one the obove person is referring to but this one should fit i think. Provide the seller your reg and they should be able to confirm. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116255552147?_nkw=GS450H+radiator&epid=755707114&itmmeta=01J6D6WEWHEQRNMJYASTMFWEZX&hash=item1b115ef293:g:RZkAAOSwgKxlcybK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlxdFjyztwTZEgO8b%2FV8SxsK%2BO9GT808akouzv2nu5R51ffh5nRhNMtw2v%2FZcB7QExwimPweM2i%2BhpBESrYpACWwC5BlPwd7iXhlceEbpNbZ%2BbLvqNKilYEocsK4x3h8A579fc4g1%2B3YSL%2BDGzoXrnLJh3OShy00uTlVG%2FaSX9K6IASeL3ubs9254jf4Mq4UIElSkI3hYrnlHKu1G%2BFogDMVfHM6N--2n4qnLs59TsAhnhbOMind6T69rE8sR9XlrrsicBrKa61WvjdyETlCKpKJeasFQXXay%2BbjTlxrtqKgA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR67u8aazZA This one might fit too and is cheaper

In the UK N/S is nearside or the side closest to the kerb which is the left side or the passenger side (our steering wheel is on the right). In Europe and US its the other way round i presume. But the above is left side.

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/107731-best-12v-battery-for-is250/

Here are all the details you need including torque specs for the bolts. Just remember to tighten the new waterpump in a star pattern. Should be a very straightforward job. http://zatonevkredit(blocked word)/repair_manuals/viewdoc_html/AWHuj7EURvZszzJrV4Yg/AWHukLlkrzlLPWuuGJ4b Also here is a thread where someone has done this themselves in the past https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/124094-2014-is300h-water-pump-failure/