Notamech

Absolutely agree... These cars are super easy to work on. The workshop manual above even provides torque specs etc. Once you're no loger able to get warranty from lexus i think it makes sense to service and maintain it yourself. Hopefully it should last a long time.

Here is the full workshop manual. http://zatonevkredit(blocked word)/repair_manuals/viewdoc_html/AWHuj7EURvZszzJrV4Yg?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks Its under engine/hybrid system >>Hybrid / battery control >>Coolant for inverter >>Replacement

Yeah its possible that 8.2L is the total capacity rather than the drain and refill capacity. Says here that 8.2l is the specified capacity not clear if that means total capacity. http://zatonevkredit(blocked word)/repair_manuals/raw_content/AWHukLfFrzlLPWuuGJ4T Personally i think the drain and refill capacity is potentially less. I had my waterpump done recently and they charged me only £37 for coolant im assuming thats one 5litre can.

All of these are from the official workshop manual and are for 2013-15 - Coolant - 8.2 litres of Toyota SLLC - Engine oil drain and refill with oil filter 4.5 litres - Brake fluid - Capacity not specified just says to fill to the max mark and use SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3 - Differential oil - 1.3-1.4 litres - CVT transmission (L210 Hybrid transaxle) - 3.8 litres of Toyota ATF - WS

Yup. Cosmetic preferences vary widely. Wrapping is one way of getting back control over this variable, especially since most of us buy used.

Did the silver panel on the centre console today. I think it has turned out quite well. Watched a few videos on wrapping / key watchouts etc and am definitely getting better at it. Its much better than the dull gold/silver the car came with. The cabin feels a bit brighter now. Will do the kneepad next.

As suggested above re-skinning may be a better option as the outline of the crack will be visible through the vinyl if you go down that route. Alternatively consider one of those leather / vinyl repair kits from amazon or ebay. That might work well in this case.

So i made a start on this today. Didn't realise how much hard work and dexterity goes into wrapping. I did the switches today and now some of the buttons stick ao i need to remove and adjust it a bit again. Also that silver trim piece on the door is held in place with screws i could see 3 of them when i removed the switch cluster there might be more. If you want to remove that piece i think you would need to remove the door card and then remove it from the inside. Seems like too much effort. Migh look into alternatives like painting the pice in situ as i dont want to be messing around with a blade around there. Heres what ive done so far did the switches and the trim on the glove box. The brushed aluminium looks really good.

I have had this happen to me on my IS300h at 90k. Similar to you there was pink residue but no major coolant loss. I ran it for two months after first noticing and while there was no major drop in coolant level there would be a white powder everywhere in the engine bay.. Presumably dried coolant flung around by the drive belt. In the end i got it done as the risk is not about running out of coolant but the bearings seizing as most of them leak through the bearings Like you i was refused relax warranty and when I tried another dealer they said i have to get it done at the dealer that diagnosed the problem. In my case my relax warranty was not active as the previous owner had not serviced it at lexus and it takes a month after servicing for the warranty to kick in and they don't cover pre existing faults. So i couldn't fight back. In your case you should get it free i would kick up a fuss and complain to lexus. Waterpump cant be considered wear else theres no end to that logic every breakdown can be wear otherwise. Also if you are around London and are paying to get it done please shop around. I was quoted £428 by lexus twickenham and £320 with a new drive belt by Lexus Hayes. The labour rates were that starkingly different. Hayes charged me £98 labour while twickenham charges £198 an hour. Was a no brainer and went with lexus hayes.

Thats a good budget. You should get a decent 2016 - 2017 model with 60k+ miles. My recommendation would be to try and get the premier version if possible or at least a trim level that has the premium nav package with 8 speakers. The standard 6 speaker set up is barely an upgrade over playing music on your phone. If you can get one with lexus service history it would be good as it will be under warranty as lexus offer a 10 year or 100000 mile warranty as long as you service it with them every year. No major common faults on the IS except waterpumps on these fail sooner or later. So look for signs of pink residue under the bonnet. Not the end of the world if a good example has a slight leak. It costs around £320 for a new pump and coolant and you should be able to drive down the price. If getting an F sport model or ones with 18 inch rims make sure the tyre has good life left in them as a full set all round is quite expensive on the 18 inch wheels ~450-600 depending on how premium the tyres are. Any other questions ask, the form members are quite happy to help.

Thanks. Keep me posted. I plan to do mine in the coming week il probably do it on the car in situ. Will need a really long chord. Your gloss carbon fiber looks really good with the red. Il be doing the door switch panels in the same colour like you and wanted to do the silver bits on the door and the centre panel in brushed aluminium. Let's see how it goes. Will post pics when i am done.

Yeah it's like their transmission fluid that lasts a lifetime. What they don't tell you is their idea of a lifetime is the warranty period. Given the amount of crap that came out I think it should definitely be taken care of at one of the major services. It doesn't take too long to do. Also i dont know if they do this already but just makes sense to have a simpler design with a serviceable cartridge type filter like we have for for the ac. Might be easier for their technicians and also DIYers to do.

Finally did this today. Took only around 15-20 mins to remove the fan and the filter. Cleaning it took really long but thats because i opened the fan and cleaned the fins thoroughly. My car is at around 91k and i think it was never cleaned. I was shocked at what came out. Glad i cleaned it.

Hi all. I plan to do some vinyl wrapping to uplift the interior of my car. Was considering doing this silver portion on the door with some silver carbon fibre or brushed metal vinyl but have scoured the internet and could not find any instructions on how to do it. Basically i wanted to know if this silver trim can be removed or would I need to do it in situ? I would prefer to remove it so that i can take it home and use a heat gun etc and wrap it properly. If anyone has done it before would greatly appreciate any tips.

Yeah I noticed that too. Recent services seem very off. Like i did a major service when i bought the car but dont see that entry. Just the hybrid check from that service is recorded. Also last week I got my waterpump replaced and dont see that repair recorded either. Fortunately when i bought the car it came with most of the receipts.

Wow this is gold. I registered a while ago but didn't realise it had the full service history (mine has it right from the start) including a recent gearbox oil change that I got done in Jan. But it does seem thin on details. For example i see a warranty claim done at 14k but doesn't say for what.

Looks quite nice. How much was it? Was it ebay or aliexpress? I couldn't find one on ebay UK at least

Agree with what most others here say i.e avoid it. Things to consider before you decide you are saving money 1)Cost of insurance for a cat s. This is something you will be shelling out annually on. 2)Ease of selling it / value you will get for it down the line when you want to sell it. 3) Potential cost of additional repairs that may arise due to the structural damage / poor previous maintenance. Also note that the car is already nearly 100k. You can potentially get a non catS 100-125k used one with service history (may not all be main dealer but better than nothing) for maybe under 10k. If its a private sale you may be able to bargain.

So the pump on my 2014 started to fail too at around 90k miles. Sounds like a fairly common problem. The failure wasn't sudden or catastrophic. There was pink residue around the waterpump and it seemed to be intermittently leaking. Like the OP it seems like it was leaking from the bearings as well. Coolant levels didn't fall too much so probably could have stretched the old pump a bit more. It wasn't actively leaking but whenever I would open the bonnet there would be fine white powder on everything. The mistake I made is i called it out when i took the car for service to lexus after I bought the car. Back then the car didn't have an active relax warranty as the previous owner didn't service it at lexus and hence Lexus didn't want to fix it. They were like we cant cover problems that your car came in with when the warranty was not active. I hoped to at least get a discount but no Lexus Twickenham didn't want to know about it. I then started shopping around for quotes and was surprised at the difference in costs between lexus dealers. Lexus Twickenham wanted £428 to change the waterpump and Lexus Hayes quoted me £320 with the pump and a new belt. An indie quoted around £380. It was a nobrainer i got this done yesterday at Lexus Hayes. I also changed the radiator cap (not the reservoir bottle cap) as that had a minor leak as well. Not sure if this failue is common. I considered doing it myself as its a fairly simple job and I could get the original pump for as low as £75 on Amayama but it seemed like a lot of time and effort + disposing used coolant etc. So just got it done professionally. Also i decided to go with the original pump as I think lexus have updated the design of the pump as it looks a bit different here vs what i saw on ebay and other sites. https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-3-water-pump-2-5l-petrol-hybrid/

You know yesterday after reading this post i had the same question, went looking for the s flow button was the first time ever that i noticed that button. Thats what I appreciate about this forum the most. Its probably the only car forum where I have actually learnt and discovered new things.

All makes sense. I agree, these days the drivetrain is likely to outlast the rest of the car anyway. My neighbour has a 2008 gen 2 prius that is extremely poorly maintained but is his daily driver and works fine. Like the thing literally has different coloured body panels (probably from a salvage yard) but keeps going so must be mechanically sound. I do around 5k miles a year and am a bit obcessive about the car so hopefully servicing once a year should be fine and it will be trouble free motoring. Also another workaround I figured that works for my use case is to get the engine fully warm in normal mode then when its at temperature switch it to eco. This way the temp remains constant and doesn't keep dropping. Also since the engine is warmed up faster its better for heating the interior as well.

Got it. So sounds its normal. From what you've said and reading on some prius forums it sounds like the heat thresholds are lower when in eco mode for the engine to shut off and switch to electric to maximise economy. Hence it doesn't really wait to get to full operating temperature to begin switching. However? Is this a false economy though? Because not operating at full ideal tempreature probably means more wear on the engine components and hence not great in the long run?

So ive been experimenting with using eco mode on the car to make fuel go further. I noticed that the engine takes much longer to get to full operating tempreature. I do a 10 mile trip almost every day. During the 10 mile drive the engine tempreature gauge is mostly at around 1/4th way up vs a tad under 1/2 way up like in normal mode. And if I get stuck in stop and go traffic then sometimes the tempreature gauge goes almost all the way back to the bottom when stopped. In general depending on traffic if I am in eco mode typically the car gets to full operating temperature almost at the end of the 10 mile journey or not at all. But in normal mode it gets to full operating temperature pretty fast (around 2-3 miles) and stays there irrespective of traffic. Has anyone else noticed this? If so does anyone know why in eco mode the engine would run cooler for longer. Surely the faster it warms up fully the more efficient the engine will be?

Dude looks like a scam to me. Why is it called postage uk. Com when its showing royal mail interface. Also if i put in my postcode it says they have my parcel. But i didn't order anything. Also they didn't even ask for my house number so how did they figure I ordered something from my postcode? Im not sure about the site you ordered from but you certainly havent missed delivery that whole postage. Com message is a scam.

Thats actually the workshop repair manual. In case you're interested in DIY i recommend bookmarking it. Someone had posted it on this forum ages ago. What lexus are saying does make sense to me. You should be able to spray it in the vents. There are several videos on youtube.