Notamech

Yeah thats normal. Its from normal rust buildup on the rotors due to moisture / condensation / rain or whatever. Those things dont even need an excuse to start rusting.

No the shim kit isn't essential but recommend to prevent squeaking under normal braking. It definitely works but can be pricy. Typically you should be able to reuse the old ones. I recommend keeping things as stock as possible.

Depends on what the issue actually is. A squeal could just be worn pads. The wear indicators rubbing against the disc create a squeal - this is by design to indicate that the pads need replacing. Consider getting new shims if needed or re-use the originals if they're still good. They need to be greased too. Replacing pads might be a good idea given your pads look nearly done. The disks may not need replacing if it isnt warped or below the specified thickness. Sometimes just having the brakes serviced e.g having everything cleaned and re-greased might help. I reckon they do this anyway when changing the pads. Here are some instructions that can help http://zatonevkredit(blocked word)/repair_manuals/raw_content/AWHukXYRrzlLPWuuGKKU If the issue is really the caliper piston sticking then you need to re-build the caliper or have it replaced. But you should be covered under warranty if its just been 11 months since you bought your car from a lexus dealer.

Not sure about others but in my case the IS is the "outstation" car. If the family have to travel somewhere far its the car we use. And for that reason I wouldn't consider an electric car at the moment. Seems like were not totally there yet with the infrastructure. If its a city car i need then electric makes sense but id probably look into a more practical hatchback type car. Seen a review of the new lexus RZ electric recently on the carcarenut channel seems like its not the best option out there and potentially better options exist.

I just had a look I seem to have this battery https://www.yuasa.co.uk/ybx3053.html Not sure how it compares to the original one but seems to be a sealed maintenance free ca ca battery with some spill protection built in. The longest I've gone without running it was 1 week and it wasn't a problem. Guess il use it till it goes bad then id probably get an original. Unless this lasts really long in which case I'll buy this again.

Thanks. The battery seems to fit perfectly and even the tyre inflator kit firs secrely above with the elastic band. I couldn't find a vent hole on the battery however and seen the tube just left to hang. Do all batteries have vent holes?

Does anyone know why there are no aftermarket options? Why do we need to use the original toyota battery and what happens if you use a regular battery with similar or better specs? I realised that my car came with a yuasa 3000, something thats aftermarket probably installed by the prev owner or the car dealer. Seems to be working fine so far. Any potential issues i should know of?

Sounds ok. Not a great deal as that price doesnt include fitting + valves. Fitting on 18 inch tyres is quite expensive i think i was told its £20 or something per wheel including balancing + valves extra. Unless your refurbishment cost includes fitting anyway then it may make sense. Also Bridgestone turanza have a new turanza 6. The T005 is the previous model. Also when i was looking into buying tyres there were reports of premature dry rot on bridgestone turanza t005s. I don't know if thats been fixed now or if its covered under some sort of warranty but it put them lower on my list.

Yes that is very much a possibility. Older tyres do go harder over time. I would say try getting new tyres first before meddling with the suspension. Michelins are typically very good ive always had a good experience with them and they last long too.

Most big brands tend to have a touring range. These typically tend to be comfort oriented. So for example the Bridgestone turanza, GoodYear Efficientgrip, Conti premium contact or the Michelin primacy range. Other big brands also have an equivalent touring range but i would stick with these top brands. Pilot sport 5 from what i understand is a high performance tyre thats meant to be more sporty and not as comfortable as a touring tyre. Some of the sporty ones do offer a decent balance like the GoodYear asymmetric 6 that I got. The ride is now still a bit harsh but way more tolerable than it was. I reckon a touring tyre would help make it even more compliant.

Might sound like an obvious 1st choice but look at getting comfort oriented tyres. I found the ride on the 18 inchers really harsh coming from an e class it was very noticeable. Eventually i got new tyres and they made a world of a difference. The previous Dunlops i had on the front were the reason for the harsh ride. Got new good years and now the ride is tolerable and mine are not even comfort oriented tyres.

I was asked to do the same i.e retun after 500 miles of driving as my car failed its hybrid health check. They told me that its nothing to worry about and that its most likely due to the battery going flat when sat at the dealership. This clears all stored codes and in order to ensure that someone has not deliberately cleared the codes to hide errors they need the computer to have at least 500 miles worth of data with no errors to issue a pass certificate. Which i think is reasonable in order to prevent fraud. On a separate note. I didn't get any email on the relax warranty. Am I supposed to? I assumed the receipt that i serviced it with lexus within the last 12 months was sufficient.

I had an older w212 facelift e class before the is300h. While not the same e class you are considering i can summarise the pros and cons of both. But can say that which car is best for you will depend on your needs more than anything. E-class pros : -Better, more premium feeling interiors. - Very luxurious and spacious - Soft ride quality good on bumps and cruising on motorways but bad on hills - The standard sound system is decent Cons: - Things break down quite often. In my 1 year of ownership. My timing chain tensioner was on its way out, i had to replace engine mounts at just 65k and i had a turbo pipe split. All of which were expensive repairs. - even when selling it. I had an issue with the parking brake getting stuck and a door speaker cutting out intermittently - The ride i thought was too soft. Good for comfort on a motorway but not good for a B road or hills. - I did feel a tad bit guilty about polluting as mine was an older non ad-blue version The model you are considering is newer so wont have all the same issues but the 2.0 l diesel variant i think had problems with tappets and lobes wearing out prematurely requiring replacement. I personally wont be going back to any European car brand anytime soon nor would recommend it if buying out of warranty. Is300h: Pros - So far ive only had to replace a waterpump at 90k which is fair and understandable. - No dpf to get clogged up. Especially since my main use is short city drives -Very smooth and quiet drive - Found it more powerful than the merc that I had especially at roundabouts the car moves when i want it to. The merc had a 1 second hesitation that i thought was a bit dangerous. - Dont feel guilty about polluting. - The tax is super low £10 for my 2014 exec is300h vs 130 that i used to pay for the merc - Driving dynamics are a bit better at higher speeds. The ride is harsher on my 18 inch wheels but the handling is much better. Very predictable and i didn't experience any understeer or roll around bends. -Most maintenence is very easy to do and can be done DIY as well once the car is older and if you plan to keep it long - Slightly more compact and better to manoeuvre in the city -Looks stunning. I found the merc ugly in comparison but this is subjective -10 year 100k mile warranty if serviced with lexus. So more peace of mind. Cons: -Interior while decent is not as luxurious and premium feeling as the merc. Again subjective. - Given it was designed to have a sportier feel. It is a bit cramped and feels less spacious. Rather everything feels very snug. The boot definitely has less space than an e class. I struggled to fit my kids stroller and luggage in the is300h. The merc would wallop a whole load. Overall id say youve got to decide what your priorities are and decide accordingly. But the lexus is definitely one with lesser issues.

It all depends on your use case frankly. I came from a w212 e class with an OM651 engine which I sold because of ULEZ. While it was was a fantastic car that i enjoyed several trips in it did have its fair share of problems at only 65k miles. It was a diesel and I would often hear a chain rattle on startup. Was advised that tensioners failing on these is common. Additionally the engine mounts were shot quite early and required replacing. Even towards the end i had an issue where the parking brake would stick and one of the door speakers would intermittently cut out. Also the driving dynamics were pretty bad given that its a big floaty barge. It did quite poorly on the hills of snowdonia with very bad understeer and some amount of roll. It had a diesel motor but my use is primarily in the city doing around 10-15 miles a day it would take long to heat up and at the back of my mind i was always worried about the egr and spf clogging up but it never did for as long as i owned it. It was verrrry comfortable and spacious though. I loved driving it on the motorway. And the interiors i thought were very well designed. The standard sound system on that was better too. If considering the merc make sure you read up on the engine and its reliability. I think the W213 (the one you're considering) had some issues with the cam lobes & rockers prematurely wearing on the 2.0l Diesel. Im not sure about the petrols. Comparatively i find the IS 300hs interiors do not feel as premium as the Mercedes and since its a more sport oriented design vs comfort it is not as comfortable or spacious. The standard sound system is terrible so if you're looking at this get a prenium nav system with the upgraded sound system. But other than that the car is fantastic. So far much better ownership experience than the mercedes. Only had to change the waterpump at 90k. Everything else just normal service items. Super smooth and reliable. I feel good about not polluting as much as i did with the non ulez compliant diesel. The car heats up incredibly fast which is very useful in the winter. There's no problem with doing short 5-10 mile journeys just change the oil earlier but don't have to worry about dpf or egr clogging. I find the pickup at roundabouts to be much better than the merc. I get a better mileage and the tax is much lower. More conpa t as well for city use. Driving dynamics are much better than the e class. Also lexus offer a 10 year warranty on cars under 100k if they're serviced annually at lexus. If I had to do it over again. I would stick with the lexus brand due to reliability and performance of the hybrid drive train but would spend a bit more and get a GS300/GS450 h premiere instead. Primarily for the additional comfort and luxury but with similar driving dynamics to an IS.

If your last service was not at an official lexus dealer then you are not covered under warranty. If you service it at a Lexus dealer now to get warranty and you declare that the wiper is malfunctioning then they will not cover it under warranty as the relax warranty terms do not cover pre-existing faults. The warranty itself activates roughly a month after the service. Even if you dont declare it they might find it when running their checks as part of the service. But you can take your chances if you wish to but you will be stuck with faulty wipers for at least a month more and will have to go back pretending this fault is new and wasn't there before. A minor service which is only oil change and checks is ~£350 and a major service which includes a few other things like brake oil, differential oil, air filters etc will cost you ~550. Frankly i think just get it done at a reputed local garage. As i am not sure the warranty covers you for 1 year/10k miles after the service even if your car is over 10 years old as someone else suggested. Maybe clarify this with Lexus. My understanding is it expires at 10 years or 100k regardless of when you had it last serviced, which in your case will be july this year. So might not be worth spending so much for few months of warranty.

I think dealers allow your own parts. Its only when the parts are used that they do not accept it because their liability insurance doesn't cover it. If the part is new its no problem. I recently had my local lexus dealer install brake shims that i ordered online from another source where it was cheaper than the dealership and they only charged me labour to do it. Whereas i remember a few years ago i had a seized rear caliper on my civic and nobody was willing to install a replacement caliper i had sourced from a salvage yard. The reason they gave me was that their insurance doesn't cover it. Finally found someone who did it off the books so I had no recourse if anything went wrong with the install.

Yes familiar with the overflow tube and thats where it was spewing excess coolant from. When i checked when hot the bottle was nearly full not just upto the B mark and when the car cooled down I used a suction pump and removed nearly a quarter litre of coolant so as to ensure theres no more mess. I like keeping the engine bay clean. It now sits at the B mark when cold and goes slightly above that when hot. My car is at around 91k and the pump didn't totally fail, i wasn't loosing too much coolant but there was a pink crust around the water pump and after driving there would be white powder everywhere in the engine bay from a few drops getting flung by the belt and that drying up into white powder. Also it appeared that the pump was failing at the bearings and that means I run the risk of bearings seizing on say a long drive. It appears that others have also seen similar failure (at the bearings) and it sounds like it could be due to the design than the coolant going bad i.e the crankshaft pulley directly driving the pump pulley with no tensioner in between. I know lexus made changes to the belt at some point but dont think there ever was a recall in the UK or if this newer belt is any better at preventing failure.

Awesome write up. Quick question... Do you know roughly how much coolant is required if you drain and refill only the radiator and not the inverter. I just got my waterpump done and looks like they charged me for only 5l and seems like some was left over and they decided to overfill the radiator reservoir quite a bit (way above the B mark) like coolant was pouring out of the overflow spout when i got home so had to manually pump it out to set the correct level later when the car was cold. So sounds like even 5 litres is too much?

I think on the rear only the toe is adjustable so too much toe out could be a reason. Unless your suspension components are bent out of shape from an impact. I would recommend getting a 4 wheel alignment done when getting new tyres it can prolong the life of the tyres and also reveal if anything is amiss.

I was considering getting this one the front looks straightforward but not sure if this one requires drilling in the rear. ￡12.75 50%OFF | for Lexus IS IS200T IS250 IS350 IS300 IS300H XE30 2014~2023 Mud Flaps Mudguards Splash Fender Guard Front Rear Wheel Accessories https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO1gs9m Good to know that you dont need to remove the wheels as that sounds like a big pain to do.

Thanks bro really useful. Will look for after market mudflaps and use these instructions to try fitting them. I see that the official ones are larger than aftermarket ones. Other than this are there any differences that make the original ones worth it?

Have the same question. Also is it an easy DIY? I mean id rather not drill holes. Do they not fit into existing wheel arch liner retainer holes? Recently i spent half a day washing and waxing my car then did a short trip of 3 miles only to return with the portion just after the wheels covered in crud. Was wondering if a mudguard would help or would it not make much of a difference

Yeah i think the images are generic. But i would recommend cleaning the wiper blade with a clean cloth and also giving your glass a wipe with rubbing alcohol to remove any wax or other protective sprays that may have got sprayed on the glass by accident. If that doesn't work then try getting new denso ones as a replacement claiming the current ones as defective. I don't think you should be spending more if you just got new ones. The original lexus ones are the same densos anyway.

On a separate topic. Original wiper blades from lexus aren't too expensive either. https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-3-wiper-blade-twin-pack/

As others here have suggested. Dont buy a written off vehicle. Two things you need to consider are that your insurance costs will probably be a bit higher plus you will have trouble when you go to sell it. 10k is a big amount already. Hold on a bit longer and buy a better car for 2-3k more. It will be better in the long run. You should be able to get a 2014 ~80-90k run luxury / executive spec for around 12k with full service history, especially if buying privately. Given the price difference it doesn't make financial sense to buy a cat N or cat s for 10k. If it was 6-7k or something thats a different story.