Notamech
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Everything posted by Notamech
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Hydrid battery failed at service
Notamech replied to Charli Alder's topic in Lexus UX250h / UX300h / UX300e Club
Yes this is common. I was asked to do the same on my IS a couple of years ago. Basically the computer must have at least 500 miles worth of data for the hybrid health check to run successfully after a flat battery or if codes have been erased. This is because some faults are intermittent and Lexus thinks 500 miles is sufficient for a car to have experienced all different types of driving conditions for even an intermittent fault to be logged again. Also this helps prevent fraud e.g people deliberately erasing codes before the hybrid health check and then later claiming warranty. -
Do you mean the plastic housing? As i mentioned above. You can check on ebay for the same colour and model that you have as there may be differences depending on trim level. E.g higher variants came with auto dimming. Heres an example of a used one on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285702595165?_skw=is300h+wing+mirror&itmmeta=01JBZ3VC32AGBMN9GC53KZY03A&hash=item428533a25d:g:WwYAAOSwbSFlzKfE&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmaX2EP0KBvHpl%2F6%2FlBLI%2BdZbP1FSQFCv7YJ1QB4o5L%2B8B5rottnT7NSsMICvW3v5838U%2B7hJhNK%2BiSs4%2FXehBVwPHGPJlWRQ%2BcSGNp7Vyt3SrjqGzRxXjB4BcEjbyd7JcVb96w0C7ucIhGyPeeuPZWxTLHUp7X4A%2BC6%2FA2dBlGs%2FzbWoNQeAr%2FiaO6iEhjaBIWdmgANU1W4H4oe5%2FETWOkMWOQ7NiqtMB8s%2Fxl0SVXgACRTu9g0jBl8Zep3xgTutA%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR87B7ePfZA If youn want to buy new you will need the exact part number and could look on amayama. It will come from Japan but will be cheaper than buying it from your local dealer. Also i am not sure if they come painted already.
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Brake Pad Longevity
Notamech replied to Big Kev's topic in RX 300 / RX 350h / RX 400h / RX 200t / RX 450h+ / RX 500h Club
Pretty sure lexus originals are Advics. Also if the groan youre talking about is the one that comes from the rear especially in stop and go traffic. Its normal. My previous IS did it even after changing to EBC and my current GS also does it (presumably original advics). When the time comes i recommend going with EBC ultimax as i had negligible dust on my IS the GS seems to generate a lot of dust with what i think are original discs and pads. -
I recently moved from an IS300h to a facelift GS300H and its a massive step up in terms of quality and feel. This feels like a proper luxury sedan. I imagine it will be the same moving to an ES300H. Also the GS300H to me feels like a bigger car despite minor size differences on paper. I recommend trst driving an ES to see if its something you will be able to manage for your daily use. E.g I didnt go for the ES because of the size it was too big for my use case and i feel i got almost all of the bells and whistles i wanted in the GS in a slightly smaller package and a lower price. But the rear space is much bigger in the ES than the GS. The GS was only marginally more than the IS. Driving wise depending on how you drive honestly if you're happy with your IS i dont think you will feel much of a difference power wise. The IS to me did feel sportier and faster than the GS. But i now prefer the softer wafty ride of the GS and it does have sufficient power for my use. The ES from what i understand has a similar soft wafty ride and good low end torque which helps with daily driving e.g accelerating on roundabouts etc.
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If the paint has chipped to the metal it means the chip is quite deep and while lexus original paints are great for colour match realistically it will only take your eye off it. Its not going to be like before. On close observation it will still be obvious that the car had a chip there. A professional service will do a better job of making it more invisible but it will come at a cost. All depends what you're happy with. Thing to note is when you go to sell the car a few years down the line stone chips are normal for used cars and sellers wont pay you more because you had them touched up.
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As pointed above. This is thick steel its not going to rust through. Also i think the diff along with the exhaust pipe rusts faster because of hot and cold cycles. Its because heat helps with the oxidation process and speeds it up. Honestly having been under the car ..i realised unless this is going to be your forever car rust should not be a major concern. You most likely will move on before it rusts to the point where it fails an MOT. Unless you live in an area where roads are salted very often e.g up north. Thats also another thing to watch out for when buying a used car to begin with. I try to avoid cars from up north. You can make an educated guess as to where its spent its life based on its registration, no of owners and location where its being sold.
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I remember seeing plastic cladding in most of the middle sections as well (on the sides) . Not as much as the front though. And even at the rear. One strange thing i remember is the rear most plastic cladding (directly under the boot) was filled with small stones. Tapping it stones kept falling out. I remember thinking i need to open this cladding some day but then never got to it. Infact just managed to find a pic on Google. As you can see other than the central portion of the car where the exhaust runs through everything else has plastic cladding.
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As Nemesis above said its most likely the braking system building pressure. Hybrids have a different braking system thats computer controlled as the computer decides when to use regen braking vs actually engaging the pads on the disc. The system doesnt use pressure you apply with your foot like traditional cars. The system uses sensors to assess how much pressure you are applying to the pedal then it uses a pump to apply the pressure it deems fit to the braking line. The pump runs when you open the drivers door even when the car is off to "ready" the braking system for you to drive. It may also run other times e.g after you've pressed the brake pedal a few times. With regards to you hearing the noise more than on your previous NX. I have a theory..its because the RX isolates outside ambient noises better than the NX what that means unfortunately is any noise from within the car is more prominent when your stationary with the music off. I recently moved to a GS from an IS and also felt the same ...the GS in theory has better sound insulation and dampening but the braking pump sounded much louder than in my IS...so i wonder if its because theres less ambient noise from outside now so noises the car makes are a bit more pronounced.
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I tried it on the IS last summer. Honestly if you're trying to do it in your drive way with no access to a lift...its a massive massive pain. First of all a lot of the underside has plastic cladding. you need to remove all the panels to be able to truly treat everything. I didn't bother with this. Then theres the issue of you have to really get under the car which for some reason felt very scary..even after that you cant reach places like the top of the diff etc and the diff is the thing that looked most rusted to me. Then when you use a wirebrush to try and remove the rust you get rust particles all over you and in your face also since youre fighting gravity your arm starts to hurt trying to scrub everything down. Long story short i said f@#% it i dont really care anymore and gave up trying to do it properly. I then just brushed over whatever i could with some jenolite rust converter and called it a day.
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Unfortunately lexus service costs are fixed. Also had you serviced your car just before its 10th birthday you could have eeked out another year of relax warranty. So if your car is registered on the 15th of oct 2014 for example servicing it on the 10th or so of oct 2024 would give you relax cover for another 10k miles / 1 year. Also i dont think servicing your car gave you roadside assistance for free. At least i am not aware of it. So i reckon you would have to pay for that either way. Also you are still covered by the hybrid bettery warranty if you continue get a hybrid health check done every year. Other than that typically the IS and GS are fairly reliable and if in your place i would risk going without the 10year + cover as its quite expensive as you say ~500 or so annually. Other than the ac servo motors failing on some IS's and rear calipers seizing i havent heard of may other issues. Some have had struts leaking on the GS. But these cases are few and far in-between.So reckon if something does go wrong you could potentially just use the 500 you saved on warranty towards repairs. However some would argue you cant put a pricetag on peace of mind and hence would fork out the 500 for the 10 year + cover.
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Depends what you mean by ball joints. Typically when you say ball joint you're referring to lower ball joints which is something like in the attached image. Which indeed is sold separately. I think the OP was talking about the inner tie rod for the steering not being sold separately and requiring a whole new rack.
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Had a look at full specs of the new to me car today (facelift gs300h) you are right it doesnt have ventilated seats in the rear but does have heated seats. Looked up the workshop manual on that russian site and it sounds pretty much like you described it. Just need to pull up the seat base and disconnect the 2 wires. Will clean the fan and filter when the weather gets better. Probably in the summer. Thanks for the instructions. Very few resources out there for the GS compared to the IS.
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Thats if you buy it from lexus. Heres a pack of 4 original for ~£140. It used to be 99 now its gone up. Just double check the part no. Ofcourse your tyre fitter will charge more on top to install it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314744519951
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When changing TPMS sensors the general recommendation is to change all 4 together. This is because theyre all of a similar age and when one dies the other ones typically give up not too long after. I suspect this is what has happened in your case and a different sensor has failed this time. The batteries typically last anywhere between 5-10 years so maybe they're at the end of their life. Might be worth changing the remaining 3 as well.
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Perhaps a slightly older 2016 NX might serve you well. I remember reading on this forum about people with the newer NXs complaining about suspension bushings wearing prematurely and lexus washing their hands off it citing normal wear. Where as i have not heard many complaints or issues from older NX users. Also i think 2017 onwards NX cars are susceptible to the CAN bus theft which can potentially affect insurance costs.
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Yeah i take it that wasnt a new car? New cars depreciate more. As cars get older the relative depreciation reduces e.g a car would lose less value from year 7 -10 vs from new to year 3
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Thats an unfortunate reality of owning luxury cars. They depreciate heavily. Also if thats the value you got online expect dealers / online companies like webuy etc. to knock it down further come time to sell. They will pick stupid reasons like ooh its had a resprayed bumper, you have a minor scratch here etc. If you arent in a hurry then i recommend selling it privately. But check autotrader for average prices for your trim level and see what price its going for. Honestly on a new car with 3 years of ownership losing 10k doesnt dound too bad. On average all cars do depreciate ~30% by year 3. You will definitely get more than if you part exchange it or sell to a car buying company. Also never bother adding anything to a car assuming it will increase its value e.g sportier alloys. If it didn't come from factory nobody cares.