jumbodrive

Nice one. Yes, that method works too and definitely has its benefits especially if someone doesn't have access to Techstream.

@zeczec Thanks, I will order that set now and try again. Your fluid check process is almost correct, other than the fact that you shouldn't turn the car off when you go to open the check level bolt. Btw, the temperature range for checking is 30C to 40C, so if you wanted to wait until 35C, that would be good too, just be careful that it doesn't exceed it because it can go up quite quickly depending on the situation. And of course, the car should be perfectly level. Keep this in mind from my previous notes: If the Line Pressure stays ON, the transmission is probably underfilled for this procedure. Either start over, or add enough fluid until it turns OFF.

Hi @zeczec, well done for changing the bearings. Mind if I ask what bearing puller or tools you used to extract and fit the bearings? I have bought two bearing pullers and neither of them have been suitable for the job! For your transmission refill procedure, I don't think you've done that correctly. It sounds to me like you have most likely under filled the transmission. I haven't seen the correct procedure posted anywhere until I purchased the workshop manual and posted it to another Lexus forum myself. The thing to consider is, you must run the engine and make sure it reaches 30C and observe the Line Pressure in the Techstream software. The transmission takes ages to cool down, so if you start with a hot car, it will more than likely be above 40C when you refill it - I suggest starting with a cold car. You don't need to warm up with fluid bottles as it will warm up once you start the engine. Here is a guide I posted on another forum before I found this one: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-3rd-gen-2006-2011/986186-3rd-gen-gs450h-transmission-oil-change-atf-ws-sealed-transmission.html If you read through the notes you should be able to work your way back without repeating the entire procedure, but you may just decide to get fresh fluid and drain it again to start over. If you don't have Techstream, you can use a jumper wire in the OBD port to get it to light up the P and D to indicate the correct temperature, but you won't be able to check the Line Pressure.

Update: Freed the circuit board screws from the housing and now I have got the armature in hand. Can now really feel how bad the bearing at the circuit board end of the shaft is. Problem now is that none of my pullers will fit under either of the bearings. The gap between the back of the bearing and the next component on the shaft is so tight. Considering clamping the bearing down in a vice and tapping the shaft with a rubber mallet, but my vice isn't suitable for that either. Have got access to other vices elsewhere, but would prefer to buy a more suitable pulling tool.

Thanks for the response. I have ordered replacement bearings (SKF brand - supposedly good?) so I will attempt the removal once they arrive, I have a small puller, but I suspect its too small. Noted about the magnet and circuit board, thanks. I was planning to apply vibration and heat, but if its a magnet I suppose it shouldn't be heated. I already had to drill out two of the motor housing screws, luckily I just drilled the heads off, and once the housing was off I was able to spin out the remaining screw by hand. I have now also ordered some JIS screwdrivers so that I have the best chance of getting them out, instead of trying to do it with a Pozidriv or Philips. Otherwise I am fairly well equipped on the electronics rework side with a dedicated bench for that kind of work. Am I right in saying the shaft can be knocked out without removing the circuit board?

Sorry for the bump This write-up is brilliant. I've got a 2009 GS450H, and recently acquired a broken transmission oil pump from a much earlier car. My plan was to rebuild it with new bearings and have it on stand by for when mine goes, but it seems that you're saying the pump was revised and my car might not suffer from this problem? I also have that electrical buzzing noise coming from what I believe to be the centre of the car, I seem to hear it the loudest when its in READY mode, park, and stick my head just below the driver's door (RHD). To be honest, I thought it was the transmission oil pump getting worn out. I have since replaced the transmission fluid (following the lengthy and correct procedure and using genuine ATF-WS) and its made no difference. It does eventually stop, so I assumed it was to do with the pump circulating ATF for a while after parking up. I think it does it less when its not up to temp yet. Could be wrong. My question now is, do I bother to rebuild this old pump I've got? I don't think there is a part number on it (other than the Denso part number on the motor side), I have already had the screws off it and the bearing that I have circled in the attached photo spins just fine, with no play. However the assembly is notchy to turn and doesn't feel smooth at all, so I assume its the other bearing - which I can't quite see or understand how to remove/replace. I am also not sure if this older pump would be OK to fit on my newer car, and if the internals of the newer pumps would even use the same bearings. There also appears to be some rubber shavings on the seal at the other end of the motor, presumably caused by play in the shaft. I wonder if that seal is also available to purchase? ] Here you can see the rubber shavings from that shaft seal: Appreciate the time taken to solve this problem and verify by the OP, and any responses to this message. Thanks.