samplify

If you open your door whilst the car is running, and then turn the engine off, do you get a door open bong?

Check for:

• Cracked exhaust manifold(s) - ticky sound on cold start (not injector tick)
• Valley plate leak
• If the radiator has been replaced, these cars are 15+ years old now so plastic gets brittle and they all explode eventually
• Exhaust condition

Other than that just general car buying things, tyres brakes suspension etc.

Hi all,

I've got my eye on some wheels with winter tyres, for those that have a better idea of fitment on these cars, do we think they'll fit?

18x8j ET30 225/45 on all 4

Thank you!

Which one did you go for in the end?

Cactus' one sounds like the one for you bro!

@hawkesy226 did you buy R19PAJ off eBay by any chance?

4 minutes ago, Ivacerk said:

This one has decent mileage , HPI clear , and fairly priced , just missing the facelift cluster , has all the other bits

Enquired about this one, last serviced in 2018 🙃The seller didn't speak very good english either which made it difficult to ascertain any more info about the car

44 minutes ago, saqib_v8 said:

Most ISFs on AT look like sh!t examples and/or overpriced. Import is 100% the way to go.

Japanese imports are not guarantees of a well looked after car either. Also, insurance (in my case as I am mid 20s) can be an absolute nightmare, compared to a UK model.

To each their own, but when dropping this amount of money on something I'd rather be able to see it, check it and drive it in person before handing over the cash. 

Anyone got any experience/test driven/know about that USB 2010 ISF that is listed on AT? Reg EO10KXH. It has been listed for over a year, a few price reductions that I can see, but it is not budging. Presumably there is something up with it? Or just strong money for a 'mid-facelift' (no new instrument cluster or DRLs but has updated infotainment with DAB/LSD etc.)

@JimmyTightlips were you the one that bought it in the end? It's disappeared from AT and eBay!

I think anywhere around the £20k mark is my maximum. Right car will be worth the right money though. In all honesty, I'd prefer one that has a bit more wear and tear so I don't feel as precious about it given it'll be my daily, so that should help keep me within the budget!

Hi all!

I posted in the 'Wanted' section but thought I'd try my luck in here/increase visibility!

I currently drive a Subaru Legacy 3.0R Spec.B with the 6 speed. Fantastic car, makes all the right noises, gets a shift on and very practical, but I have always lusted after an ISF and a recent change in circumstance means I might be able to afford one now!

Are there are any 2010+ cars for sale by members right now? Or any members that have been considering selling?

Please let me know!

Thank you 🙂

I'd much prefer to buy from the OC though, more likely to have been looked after!

Hi all,

Can't see any for sale at the moment, but wondering if any current owners of the facelift variant of an ISF are looking to sell within the next few months?

Please let me know!

You could try looking for an exhaust system from a breaker's car, although no guarantee that that exhaust isn't also full of holes. 

Auto or manual? My manual is for sale, PM if you have any questions!

Most likely the VVTI cam gear rattle. It happens from time to time if oil drains out of that area. I've heard leaving the car on for a few mins after you've finished driving helps to prevent it. I don't think it poses a threat to anything though!

Yep I had the same thing, replaced the same blue print filter with an OEM one and too remarked at their difference in thickness!

Rusty sills, they always go. Even if they have been mended before, it is only a matter of time before they go again. There are some things that you can do to really put it off waxoyl, holes in the bottom of the sills etc. but yeah, corrosion is a biggy there. Oh, and in the boot pockets. None of it is structural (to begin with...)

Other than it sounding extra fruity you'll be OK! 

I did this, but also removed the plastic baffles inside the airbox too. It does add sound and doesn't seem to come with any engine heat soak complications. If you're at all concerned, ask a breaker's if they have an airbox and do it to that one instead to compare. I got one for £30 and it came with a perfectly good MAF in it so was chuffed. 

I used a hole saw for spot lamps and it worked great. Just make sure you have some sandpaper to get rid of all the marred plastic from the hole and all the jagged bits of baffle left over (pretty much impossible to get that all flush unless you have a proper handheld sander, probably more effort than its worth). Also, give it a rinse with a hose to get rid of any plastic dust. Yes, it is before the air filter, but no point clogging it up unnecessarily!

Reviving this thread - anyone know the thread pitch and size of nut I should use to secure the heatshield?

30 minutes ago, peniole said:

I can confirm it does here in the UK, and at least for me it's definitely camber related. Driving on the continent, same car, it pulls right.

Hmm interesting. I am planning a trip to Germany at some point in the summer so I guess we shall see if it pulls to the right there. Definitely something I can live with though!

On 5/1/2022 at 11:34 PM, AFlex said:

Interesting... I have stock IS250 Sport springs (2007) and have always found the suspension to very rough and uncomfortable around town - and it's totally stock.

I don't suppose you've ever driven a sport model and could compare how yours feels now you've upgraded the parts? I would love to fit the LCA bushings as I hear they improve the steering 'feel' (always felt this car was lacking steering feedback compared to BMW 3 series I used to drive). But I'm not willing to sacrifice ride comfort that much.

I suppose it's difficult to say how much of the firmness is due to the LCA bushings vs the shocks?

I have never driven a sport model, unfortunately. LCA bushings shouldn't change ride comfort, more steering feel as others have already mentioned.

Hi all,

I have been sitting on this issue for a few months since purchasing the car.

I initially thought my problem was LCA or other suspension arm related. Had the LCAs replaced and the other arms measured/verified and all good there.

Next I thought it was tyre related so when I replaced the alloys from 17s to 18s with new tyres I expected the pull to be gone. 

Had the car aligned (twice) and both times the issue has not gone away. The most recent alignment print out suggested everything is straight as an arrow.

I have tried the zero point calibration using the paperclip method (taken from the official Lexus service manual) and if anything it feels a bit worse than before (might just be me though!)

I have looked through the car's history and it did have the steering rack replaced as part of a recall I think.

No uneven tyre wear, symptoms are it feels as if the centre point of the wheel is slightly off to the left and I have to fight it to stay centered (apply a tiny bit of right lock). It occasionally feels as though it recentres and then goes back to not centering. My brother suggested it might be road camber related but honestly the amount that it veers left when I hypothetically let go of the wheel momentarily on an almost flat road makes me think otherwise. You can actually physically see that the wheel is slightly left of centre when it is left to its own devices.

Has anybody had a similar experience?