IS300FSPORT

Keep us updated pls interested in seeing if this works out.

If I have this positioned correctly, (yellow line) just before it bottoms out place the ramp on the drive so the exit wheels lift, no need to go on pavement (red line avoid) As long as it is on your own drive I don't think it is a problem for the local authority.

- 12v Tyre inflator is a must - Tyre plug kit seen them used will get you out of trouble (Temporarily lets you continue with your journey) - Locking wheel nut key/jack/nut removal spanner Pray & hope for the best. As long as your tyres are in decent condition over 5mm thread & not aged rubber you should be fine just depends on road debris. https://youtube.com/shorts/-UTnDheAMcE?si=1CXETAHinut72Kn-

Look on Amazon Rubber speed humps idealy heavy duty so not blown away by wind. Example VEVOR 3 Pack of 2 11000lbs per Axle Capacity Protective Wire Cord Ramp Driveway Rubber Traffic Speed Bumps Cable Protector https://amzn.eu/d/eRWe2bU

This may help...

Dont get in the car until your off the drive

Yes i understand put perhaps all ES300H owners round up from this forum & nominate a lead to send a collective email copying everybody in, raise it as a concern to the Lexus head office to get their attention & request them to do something before going to the press. Failing this surely can get them custom made plates from a reputable garage thats willing to do it. It will work out cheaper in the long run on insurance premium increase & the excess when a claim is submitted, etc

Consider getting a metal plate fitted behind the passenger headlight, this will potentially stop them once they remove your wheel arch liner back, but if they are in a quiet car park it depends how much time they have on their side it will at least slow them down. Unfortunately, damage to the bumper & bodywork will still happen, though. If possible, park close to a wall to reduce your chances of an attempt, making it extremely difficult for theifs. If you're leaving the car unattended for a long time, remove the 12v negative cable from your battery. It's located in the boot. This will mean you need to lock the car manually each door & *warning there is no alarm it just means no power to the car, making it impossible to drive away without being towed. Make sure you can get back into the boot though with your key. An alternative option is to remove a fuse/relay temporarily. Bollards on your drive/wheel clamps/steering lock all can easily be cut off with todays cordless power tools, which just means more noise, which they obviously dont want. The other options are a professional installed insurance approved alarm/immobiliser.

Your 12v battery has done very well if its never been trickle charged. You must be using it just enough to keep it topped up. Is your battery AGM? I think they handle discharge & recover much better than the lead acid batteries. (For info/awareness for the original poster) There are no tell tale signs the battery is dying like a conventional non-hybrid engine where a slow turnover of the starter motor gives it away the battery is dying. Hybrids dont have a starter motor so its not picked up early enough. Owners have reported pushing the power button & the warning message popping up put it into P. A simple powerpack like a Noco GB40 charged & kept in the boot reduces your chances of being stranded. The below are not faults as such more keeping ontop of maintenance: - Squeaky brakes is usually caused by seized slider pins that just need a regrease. - Hybrid cooling fan if higher mileage get the fan & filter cleaned it can get blocked with dust or pet hairs.

100% echo this...

There is no need to remove the clamps from the actual battery terminals so you dont actually loose connection or risk a short circuit. Its simple as loosen 10mm nut add the eyelet to the bolt & put the nut back on. Positive first then negative, 10 min job at the most. With the Caveat - I dont know if adding a battery monitor will cause any long term battery drain as its a device constantly using a power source from the 12v battery which defies the purpose of all this we want to reserve the battery voltage to avoid or slow down the discharge rate.

Yes your right the Noco Genius 5 does come with standard eyelets that can be removed from the crocodile clips to permanently hard wire to the battery, but as I often charge batteries for other cars within the family I needed a spare cable. If that makes sense. Re closing the cover I used a dremel to create a 1cm square to pass the cable through it right at the bottom of the cover, the plug is actually hidden under the rubber boot mat can't even tell its there. 30 second job now with an accessible outside socket installed its so convenient.

Update I've added a quick connect lead to the battery terminals. For info - The NOCO GC002 connector is compatible with the NOCO Genius 5 or 10 charger. Saves you from removing the battery cover each time & using the crocodile clips not ideal. Makes it so much easier to maintain the 12v battery. Bought the cable from Amazon discounted from £15.95 to £12.95 if any of you are interested. (To be fair its not really necessary if you use the car regularly) I tried to keep as OEM looking as possible put the cable in a conduit for extra pre-caution. Its a fused cable anyway so its safe to use. Recommend it if your not driving the car regularly or leaving it unattended for a long time you wont come back to a flat battery potentially leaving you stranded.

Can you check which version of the app your running if its an old version they may have put a bug fix in since. Hold the App icon & go to App info at the bottom it will have a version number. & which ODB2 Adapter are you using if not original you may experience issues. I bought mine in August 2023 from Amazon, currently running on v8.0.2 at the time I ran the TPMS function to retrieve the individual codes & didnt experience any issues or run into any errors. Checking the Play store Carista they are now on version v8.1 last updated on 5th Dec. It has a reference to Lexus not sure if its a general statement or if they added anything? Service Perform simple service procedures without the mechanic’s help and spare yourself the long waiting time and extra costs at the workshop. For certain Volkswagen, Audi, SEAT, Cupra, Škoda models: 1. Electronic parking brake (EPB) retraction tool; Service reset; Detailed ECU information 2. Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) regeneration 3. Battery registration For certain Toyota, Lexus, Scion models: 1. Tire pressure sensors (TPMS) 2. ABS/VSC/TRAC inspection 3. Detailed ECU information

Cheers Rob - cant say have seen any posts on here for the IS250 must be very rare not to say there aren't any. Its usually IS300H (primarily) or the IS200T owners posting on here. IS250 is popular for the previous gen thats why I suggested try posting in that section somebody who has experienced the same issue may be able to help. Will let original poster confirm.

Nobody can give you a real answer online without seeing the car & doing diagnostic, unless its known as a common issue. Perhaps if you post or move to the correct section you may get a better reply from owners with the same car

Way too many variables... I recently resolved a similar issue on a friends car not a Hybrid. - Dirty throttle body - cleaned - MAF Sensor - Cleaned - Air filter replaced No codes started behaving... Try topping up with quality fuel Shell V Power & give it a good motorway run aka (Italian tuneup) carbon build up, doesn't help if used mainly on short journeys. Idling at 900rpm is pretty normal in cold weather your using more electronics engine compensates but will quickly switch to EV. Assuming you have posted in the right section this is for the IS300H.

To my knowledge the seal is not usually replaceable its a sealed unit so to speak. If your good at DIY you will need to remove the bumper & get to the headlight unit & use clear silicone sealant to make it water tight but thats in the hope it will resolve it. Its well out of warranty by now I think you mentioned the car is 2016? Coming upto 8 years wouldnt be a Manufacturer fault as such just wear & tear with age seals become brittle & with a heavy downpour some water maybe finding its way in. The IS300H Headlights are not coded in so you could probably get away with a replacement unit but I bet it would cost a pretty penny. Try ignoring it if you can help it, until it really stands out then just repair or replace.

Usually after a car wash theres a mist right at the top of the headlight, cant say Iv noticed it being a problem impacting the beam etc. Look out for the headlamp being cracked unlikely though its usually just condensation getting past the headlight seal. You could try using a hair dryer but it will likely come back be careful you dont melt the clear plastic. My advice would be to leave it alone unless it holding a puddle of water

Since refuel reset the MPG 2 weeks ago after a full tank of fuel from Coscto using the premium fuel. Average was 17MPG now at 19MPG its slowly trying to go up. Thr average usually sits around 33MPG & on motorway seen it upto 50mpg. This is strictly local mileage on eco mode using heaters & heated seats & the rear demister. Less than 2 mile a day journey doing the school pickup sat idle for at least 15 mins, iv done approx 60 miles not exactly great MPG for a Hybrid. The battery health check & tyre pressures are good too. Maybe its my right foot

Thinking about it, Infact its not a bad 2nd car would you say it would be a very thirsty engube for local runs i.e. school run etc your the best person to answer this considering you owned one. I get it that any car on short journeys wont be economical but being auto for stop start it would be fantastic when stuck in traffic.

Let it go buddy I know the feeling but surely you moved onto a better motor... no longer your problem

The new Civic Type R looks fantastic, let the depreciation pass.

On a 2015 F Sport there is no Manual button for headlamp washers at least not on mine. No big deal to be fair as you say how likely are you to use it. @Linas.P interesting read to be fair now I'm curious to unnderstand if the big commercial lorries have to comply with certain screenwash during winter months not a pleasant outcome if the windscreen is covered. Half of these issues are as a result of the screenwash being diluted maybe a full drain & refill with full concentrate to reduce chances of freezing fluid from Nov-March? I dont know but I may experiment & report back. Now thinking about it had a Ford a few years back as a company car & they had a windscreen defrost feature which was fantastic prevented screenwash freezing on the windscreen when sprayed & so much easier in the morning no need to defrost. Maybe heated jets & the reservoir including the lines is the end solution & I wouldnt be surprised if Mercedes have developed something already for safety reasons. Have to admit it is abit overkill but if its what the end consumer wants it should be an option. My car is getting on now maybe Lexus have stepped up their game on the latest models. Wont know until it comes time to change.