IS300FSPORT

Thats great! A 63AH battery should be more than capable, & should easily last you 5 years if the car is being used every 5-10 days or so. As long as your not running permanent live power with the ignition off i.e a hardwired dashcam in parking mode (motion detection) etc it shouldnt drain your battery. Theres a way to test the 12v voltage from the multimedia screen holding Menu button & flicking headlight switch on/off upto 5x. Takes you into a diagnostic screen. (IS300H) maybe the same technique on other models? Or just use a multimeter to check resting voltage after being parked for an hour anything above 12.2v will keep you out of trouble. If you really want peace of mind & dont want to be stranded either charge it once a month or keep a jump pack in the boot ready to go I.e noco GB40 Cost approx £80. Top tip is dont listen to the radio or use power when the car is off. For example move elec seats, interior lights, radio, air tyre compressor always use when car is in the 'Ready' mode so the voltage you output is getting a chance to recharge the battery.

Take a look on Tayn car batteries website or Lexusparts direct. https://www.tayna.co.uk/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoKeuBhCoARIsAB4WxtdAkCHWXA9a8S-ttNZMeUsCNTCIb5c3qLzPoKsvVYQC-LLX4HlBF3YaAumvEALw_wcB I had a Panasonic lead acid battery before can only assume it is what was supplied when it left the factory. Since then I purchased a battery from Lexuspartsdirect they supplied an AGM battery. The one advantage of AGM is they are suppose to be sealed so in the event of a rear end accident the acid wont leak + they handle discharge better in terms of recovery. Since your 12v is located under the boot compartment in the spare tyre section how likely is it to leak anyway worst case scenario if its upside down. The disadvantage with going with what Lexus provide the batteries have low AH amps per hour rating hybrid 12v batteries typically rated around 45-55AH. They need to be either recharged or driven regularly. Id suggest if you have access to an outdoor socket consider investing in a Noco Genius 5 charger & charge it once a month. Getting a new battery is all well & good but if your not using the car regularly to give it a chance to charge up you will only end up with a flat battery. If its over 5 years old then its not long before its due replacement anyway. To the point try to find a battery with the highest AH that fits the dimensions of your existing battery.

Start with checking the rubber seal around the door frame both doors. Then move onto the sunroof looking for a drain hole remove any old grease/leafs/dirt etc. The clue is on the roof liner once it dries out is there a stain that its coming from the sunroof. Another option is to get an assitance to stand outside with a water hose on medium pressure & you sit inside the car with a torch listen carefully & look out for a drip with the tap turned on. Depending on how much water has accumulated you may need to lift the carpets up & remove a rubber bung to let the water drain out then use a dehumidifier or hair dryer to dry out as much water as possible.

Update installed 12v socket arrived today 15 min job at the most. Socket is Hardwired to the battery. The most difficult part was making a hole to insert the 12v socket into the battery compartment cover. Spare socket now live can monitor the 12v battery voltage if it drops below 12v will trickle charge it.

Thanks that's interesting tell me more about your battery monitor

Have any of you attempted to install a 12v Female socket in the boot? Comes useful for adding any accessories in the boot or as a backup socket. Connecting directly to the 12v battery with an inline fused 10 amp positive cable should be a safe option? The socket will be permanent live, if nothing is plugged in shouldn't draw any power from the battery is my thinking. If I need the socket to be switched so it only comes on when the ignition is on think I will need to extend a cable from the 12v new socket to the fuse box front passenger side tapping into a switched fuse i.e 12v power socket. Any thoughts pls?

C1256= Accumulator C1345 = Linear Solenoid Valve Offset Learning Undone These seem to common codes documented online when the brakes are not bled correctly, for example on Toyota Prius forums. If your car is under warranty the main dealer should fix it for free otherwise they will try to sell you an actuator/abs pump etc which is not cheap! Failing that try to find a Toyota/Lexus specialist with techstream they should be able to perform a calibration/reset once they rule out the issue. 90Km is low mileage for a part to go out. Pls keep us updated interesting in knowing the issue/fix

From reading what you describe if driving on ice & you have lost anti lock braking system (ABS) may explain you may have gone into a slide making you think you have no brakes but the pedal will usually vibrate when braking on ice. Even though the brakes are electronically assisted, for you to loose the brakes completely you would have to lose hydraulic pressure (loss of brake fluid) brake pedal sinks to the floor. Check your brake disc & pads slider pins etc all moving freely. Dont be driving it if your brake pedal is dropping to the floor get it towed to a garage. I suspect you have an electric fault, check your battery terminals are connected properly & have the 12v battery tested that can throw out random codes when the battery voltage is low & have your fuses tested check for continuity with a multimeter. Thankfully never experienced such an issue but I imagine its rare.

Long journeys the F Sport is very smooth if your referring to motorways. Hit a pothole & its like any other car to be fair it still remains composed very forgiving. Pays off in the handling department cant say I have ever experienced body roll when pressing on around twisty roads.

Based on the number of responses its unlikely that anybody has done a tyre swap like that It defies the purpose of having the F Sport model if your adding bigger tyres, I appreciate its not a performance car but out of the box it handles quite well very capable in standard form with the comfort level that doesn't knock your dentures out . You say to fill the bigger arch gap but its setup like that for a reason to allow for suspension travel when loaded with weight it will potentially bottom out, the thicker profile tyre may hit the wheel arch? I'd leave it as it is insurance look for any excuse not to pay out in the event of a claim so no point voiding your insurance if not declared. Unless of course you want to experiment let us know how you get on. Interested in seeing any pictures if already done.

Guessing they are shipped to the Middle East or somewhere near there. The ultimate goal is to get into that container, there is no return after that cargo has sailed away..... Insurance are taking the biscuit too making you think is it really worth it.

The IS300H is known to wear out the inside of tyres, abit of analysis to validate this go on autotrader pick out higher mileage examples & check the MOT history. You will notice a trend inner tyre worn on edges advisories or even an MOT fail, I dont think it is a specific tyre issue. It is how the alignment is setup out of the factory / softer lower control arm bushes being the primary cause. I believe others have changed suspension components from the F Versions that have stiffer bushes. The reason why your main dealer refused to do tyre rotation is because the rear tyres are wider I dont think you can put wider tyres on the front axle. Play with your tyre pressure mine are set at 36-37psi seem to be wearing normal the steering is bang on centre & no drift off to the right or left if you let go off the steering wheel on a flatish straight road. Get the alignment checked & its not uncommon Mercs & BMWs also have this issue. For reference https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/940025-all-about-lexus-is-premature-inner-tire-wear.html

The IS300H is known to wear out the inside of tyres, abit of analysis to validate this go on autotrader pick out higher mileage examples & check the MOT history. You will notice a trend inner tyre worn on edges advisories or even an MOT fail, I dont think it is a specific tyre issue. It is how the alignment is setup out of the factory / softer lower control arm bushes being the primary cause. I believe others have changed suspension components from the F Versions that have stiffer bushes. The reason why your main dealer refused to do tyre rotation is because the rear tyres are wider I dont think you can put wider tyres on the front axle. Play with your tyre pressure mine are set at 36-37psi seem to be wearing normal the steering is bang on centre & no drift off to the right or left if you let go off the steering wheel on a flatish straight road. Get the alignment checked & its not uncommon Mercs & BMWs also have this issue. For reference https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/940025-all-about-lexus-is-premature-inner-tire-wear.html

Under normal conditions (not high speed) will be fine. As long as its holding consistent pressure nothing to worry about. Its legal & will possibly be an advisory come MOT.

In the 3 year ownership a 2015 currently standing at 55k Preventative maintenance - Replaced the 12v battery for peace of mind - Squeaky brakes rear caliper slider pins regreased - Hybrid cooling fan & filter cleaned - Auxillary belt, long life coolant & differential fluid changed, including the spark plugs well before the 60/100,000 mileage interval. 1 fault (fixed without cost) - Sunvisor sliding mirror on the drivers side the light wouldn't come on after moving the slider back & forward 5-6 times, got it working again. Changed to white LED bulb. Plenty of youtube how to seems to be common issue across other Toyota/Lexus models. Other than the above its been faultless occasionally stretching its legs & it still doesn't dissapoint, the handling is great too. Although it looks faster than it is in a car park! Honestly speaking,I also believe performance wise it is underrated, happily keeps pace & is capable of shaking off the typical equivalent German rivals who try to sit on your rear bumper.

Uniroyal Rainsport 5 on an IS300H drove through huge puddles on the motorway without any hesitation set off x4 keeps the car planted in the rain. Giving confidence levels that make it feel like is this for real it should be dangerous, I wont quote the speed. Highly recommend them if you reside North of the UK like me where we see a lot of rain.

Sorry replied on the other thread, I think that drain hole is routing water down the wheel arch.

I dont think its connected to a tube, its a drain hole that must be routing water down a path it comes out under the arch if you look carefully. Tested it with a hose a while back.

Try this

Invest in a Noco GB40 booster will get you going again Halfords https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/jump-starters/noco-gb40-1000a-jump-starter-721898.html

Agree with the majority on here recommend to get it done from a main dealer should your radio fail they should cover it. Like a few others on here I have done it myself without any ill consequences I have to admit I've removed the 12v battery upto 2-3x during lockdown to recharge it & later decided to fit a new one due to its age without a single issue. The main traction (high voltage) battery is a main dealer job. Thats located under the boot panels usually where you will find a spare wheel, your not touching this. The 12v battery can be replaced without any special tools & taking precaution ensure the radio is off car is off & terminals are reconnected correctly to the correct negative & positive posts (stating the obvious) but it is such an easy mistake to make if not paying attention. Do so at your own risk if your on a budget if successful you save around £150 from paying main dealer to do it. Not a complicated job at all. If you have breakdown cover get them to jump start/tow you to the nearest dealer.

Where are you located? To jump start, lift the bonnet under the black plastic fuse cover you will see a red plastic clip/cover thats your positive connection & put the negative jump cable on a metal part. The 12v Battery is located in the boot behind the left cover, make sure radio & power is OFF before undertaking anywork, you need a 10mm spanner negative cable first then positive if your replacing the battery. (Dont jump start from the boot) New battery approx £150 https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-3-auxiliary-12v-starter-battery/ (Ignore the multimeter but thats your connection points to jump start follow the black & red cables)

Quick question what do the facelift models have on display is it PSI/KPA measurement any pictures pls? I may consider getting a genuine module from a breakers yard, is any additional cable/harness required or just the module.

Driving the car regularly should help it charge but it depends on the age & type of life the battery has had. If its been discharged regularly i.e left unused for prolonged periods (lockdown didnt favour these low capacity batteries) then driving it wiill only keep it topped up enough to get going, accidentally leaving on interior lights is all it takes for it to cause a problem. They never recover from a discharge unless your regularly maintaining it. If past 5 years the best option is to replace it for a genuine one just for peace of mind if you plan on keeping the car. There is no visible sensor on these batteries just a vent tube. Monitor it with a multimeter if its reading below 10.9v scrap it & just buy a new one.

Happy New Year The AC drain pipe is situated just above the CVT transmission oil pan I tried taking a looking & couldnt reach it on the last oil change. Its a buggar to get to! Unless you have thin & skinny long hands you may be able to reach it. Be careful if the exhaust is hot! Your right if it builds up enough of a puddle it can cause issues with electronics potentially causing a short circuit, directly under the seats are airbag connectors & heated/cooled/movement cables. Not to worry you but I'd suggest not to leave it unattended if you cant do it yourselt get it booked in. For now just place a thick towel to absorb any water from travelling around the car to minimise any damage & keep an eye on it, & suction out the water perhaps with a carpet machine if you have one to minimise any funky damp smells & to avoid windows misting up. Thats assuming its the AC pipe check rubber door seal, ac condenser usually near where the cabin filter lives. Remove any blocked leafs from under the wiper section panel any blockage? Look for water bottle accidentally left under seat etc This may help from the University of youtube getting to the AC drain. If you dont mind keep us posted pls I'm always looking to learn a thing or two with these fixes im sure most owners will face this at some point during (long term ownership)