IS300FSPORT

Having done the front recently I can confirm there is nothing that needs to be done differently to a non-hybrid vehicle. Honestly save yourself the trouble & money if your handy with a spanner you can do it yourself potentially within a budget of £200. The hardest part is probably loosening the wheel nuts & finding the wheel is stuck to the hub few kicks later & your on yr way to performing a brake job. *Caveat (As long as you don't touch the brake bleed nipple) The rears do require abit of adjustment to the brake shoes to fit the new brake disc on the hub, agajn nothing complex really, this is to ensure the parking brake bites correctly on a hill to pass an MOT without issues.

Looking at that video it seems like the previous owner may have pulled a fast one had a Polish or detail done on the car before the sale or part ex. The dealer that sold it to you may genuinely not have any knowledge of it being that bad a couple of washes later & you discover it as the Polish or wax has washed off. Regardless if it has been repainted they should have picked that up during the inspection they can measure the paint thickness & have a trained eye to pickup any blemishes. Press on with challenging it use social media to its potential with the threat to expose them if they don't plan on sorting it out.

Have you just purchased the car? Or has it started happening after any mechanical work? Start with the basics: - Tyre pressures - Check ball joints for any play including the control arm bushes - Sticking brake caliper or binding brakes (brake shoes) for the parking brake adjusted correctly - Condition of your brakes - Loose wheel nuts (hope not) - Worn shock absorbers (leaking)? - Diff fluid was original Toyota/Lexus diff fluid used I.E correct grade & topped up to the correct level? - Defective new tyre straight after a tyre change is suspect - Hit any pot holes? The list is exhaustive try to trace back before any work was undertaken.

Thanks for sharing the quote. Recently did my own disc & pads all around for £400 delivered from EBC brakes. Saving approx £598 due to no labour charge feel abit better now. Changing out the disc & pads is the easy part any garage will dl the job easy money, however whats really important on a brake job which is time consuming is the brake hardware clips need to be either replaced/ cleaned removing brake dust & corrosion to look like new with a wirebrush & caliper slider pins taken out wire brushed & regreased. Otherwise within a few hundred or thousand miles you will get that horrible squeal reappear. Also make sure they don't throw away your brake shims that go on the pads just transfer to your new pads to mitigate that squeal which are not cheap.

It really does depend on the condition & the service history record. Dont be afraid to get on your knees & take a look underneath from the back of the car a 2014 may have developed abit of corrosion by now rust spots in comparison to a 2016 model. I do find cars that have generally been kept up in the North region have more corrosion I.e Scotland etc where the road salt/grit Rots the underside but again it may be kept as a 2nd car being rear wheel drive may not be used in snowy conditions at all. Running gear etc will be the same may see an improvement on face-lift model better LED headlights but for me it's the F Sport over the other trims. All the best!

F Sport all day - Interior Speedometer Lexus LFA Sport dials - Rose red leather option - Heated Seats & cooled seats - Front bumper & mesh grill looks sportier - 18" Alloys again look the part - Aluminium sports pedals + The resale value attracts buyers As for MPG all depends on your driving style ranges anywhere from 35-50MPG on mine recommend the F Sport just get one that's not been tampered with so called modifications that just make it look scruffy IMO.

Brake disc & pads wouldn't be covered under the warranty. For a brake squeal usually you just need a strip down & regrease the caliper slider pins. Although the pads may have plenty of life left guaranteed the discs will be corroded or will have a lip due to wear. Get an independent garage to inspect & replace if necessary. No real benefit for going to a dealership for a brake job easy enough to do as a DIY job if you have the right tools. The manufacturer warranty comes into play if the battery (main traction high voltage) battery has a failure but unlikely at the mileage your quoting.

Is the car going to be garaged or in a secure area whilst plugged in? The last thing you want is a trip hazard or anybody tampering with it whilst your away. The sensible approach is to face the front of the car so that you can exit easily should it need to be towed (worst case scenario) or simply be able to open the bonnet to jump start factor in being able to open side door to open the bonnet. The under bonnet terminals are usually for jump starting a car. Connecting directly to the 12v battery in the boot or under the bonnet won't make a difference as long as you can close them securely without crushing the cable (avoid causing a short circuit) & running into another problem. Obviously ensure your connecting to the correct terminals. (+) Red Positive & (-) Black Negative I regularly use the Noco Genius 5 connected directly to the battery which has a fuse as a safety measure for info it is situated in the boot in an IS300H. I wrap a cloth as extra insulation around the cable to avoid the boot lip crushing the cable. Been doing this for 4 years no issues. It also comes with the quick connect eyelet cable so you can connect it directly to the battery terminals instead of using the crocodile jaw clips (more secure). As for which cable to connect first it doesnt matter as long as the cars main power is OFF & the charger is switched OFF whilst you connect the cables once all connected then switch the charger power ON *Select the correct charging function on the charger for your battery type very important to avoid damagng your battery. I.E Lead Acid, AGM & let it charge the colours will indicate % of charge once fully charged it switches to Green only into a trickle charge. Mine is the AGM on an IS300H if your unsure read the label sticker on the battery or ask your main dealer assuming its on the original battery?! 99% sure it will be AGM (they fitted them in cars where the battery is in the boot) in the unfortunate event of an accident to avoid acid spilling & harming passengers. Hope this helps.

Wirebrush & intense heat failing that cut it off & replace with inner & outer tie rod.

Has your mechanic used a blow torch on it? A competent mechanic should be able to loosen that nut in no time. I recently replaced a tie rod on a 12 year old Honda it required patience & the nut to be glowing red. Inner tie rod usually has a lock washer that is bent inwards to prevent the nut from coming loose check this has been straightened with a punch before attempting to twist it loose. If it helps... 4550353010 - Part number look on ebay description of the item lists the spec.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404431469255?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=y9sZbD73SoW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=m3fnkB75QhS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=WHATS_APP

Try contacting the Lexus head office I'm sure somebody on this forum will have a contact email address? Failing that try researching names of Execs/senior positions on Linked in. You may well face the usual line "You should have checked the vehicle at hand over, all our cars are quality checked & approved with 101 checks at point of sale etc" Unfortunately once the sale is done the salesman is usually not interested. I suggest leave a review on Trust pilot & Google & hopefully you will get a response from the branch manager they wouldn't want negative press it has risk to their reputation & potentially impacts their sales. How did you pay? If on credit card your protected, even with finance etc there must be a consumer protection clause where you can get the credit companies to fight your case, how you prove it didn't happen post the sale will be your biggest challenge. All the best hope they sort it out for you, keep us updated.

Are you checking the pressures when cold or after a drive? Once the tyres heat up the pressures can rise anywhere upto 5 psi from cold. Try checking them when they are cold. A slight increase won't do no harm it helps with luggage & passengers + better fuel economy with their being less rolling resistance, but you compromise that with reduced tyre contact on the road meaning it may slide around in the wet if pushed extremely hard into a corner.

I had a slight squeal from the rears around 45k 2-3 years back, a clean up is all that was required, removed the pads cleaned the caliper carrier clips & regrease the slider pins it went quiet after that. Although my front pads were always silent. I think that's the common issue because they dont wear the corrosion & brake dust can become a nuisance, every 5 years or so, recommend them to be stripped & cleaned especially if your in the rust belt where you see snow & road salt. + I wash the car frequently applying a light pressured water hose on the brake disc & pads usually can see brake dust draining off this may somewhat help?! but just don't let it sit for days straight after a car wash which may cause further corrosion/seizure issues & test the brakes carefully if doing this. The EBC pads are silent at the moment & I used the original metal shims that were fitted on the original pads & just transfered them over. Alot of garages don't transfer the shims over the old pads usually thrown in the garage bin with the shims.

Mileage 55k 2015 model I recently decided to change the Front disc & pads MOT tester advised on the last test the front pads were running slightly low but upon inspection a year later I found the following (See below) the primary reason for changing them out is the Original pads fitted by Lexus brake dust was horrendous for an OEM pad. Pedal feel around 6mm wasn't great either could tell it took slightly longer to stop especially in close up traffic & given they were 9 years old decided it can only do good, but no favours to my wallet. I did shop around & did a comparison from Lexuspartsdirect priced around £420 & the EBC brake disc (coated) & pads all around, using the Yellowstuff pads worked out at £400 delivered. DIY so no labour cost, would be interested in knowing what the labour cost would be? Accept I could easily have done a clean & refit brakes lasting in excess of 100k+ on modern Hybrids but since the car hasn't cost me nothing I felt it deserves a treat. At least that's what I tell myself. Front - Discs lipped & appear corroded (9 years old) - Pads at 6mm no unequal wear inner/outer pads Rear - Disc not lipped but what appeared like heat spots & corrosion - Pads 8mm no unequal wear inner/outer pads - Brake shoes at 3mm The rear brakes do less work due to hybrid regen on RWD car. *For info new pads are 10mm Tools *Axle stands & low profile Jack - Important Front jack up on subframe or dedicated sill Rear jack up under the differntial Or dedicated sill 21mm socket for the wheel nuts for removing alloy wheel Impact driver helps I invested in a Miwaukee M12 Fuel a while back 1/2 Breaker bar is your best friend for removing any tight bolts, especially the caliper carrier brackets. 17mm socket- calliper carrier bracket 14mm socket - slider pins M8 x1.25mm bolt to remove the disc instead of hammering the discs off the hub. Caliper compressor tool Screwdriver to adjust rear brake shoes, using the star push inwards to rotate to expand the shoes to tighten up, experiment untill the disc rotates with a slight drag,it's now holding on 3 clicks on a steep incline pedal travel is 6/7 clicks. Feels tight, I generally only use the parking brake unless absolutely necessary. Putting it in P Holds it on a flat surface. Brake cleaner can x2 Silicone grease for the brake sliding pins to move freely Copper grease for the wheel hubs (lightly) Wirebrush pad holder metal clips & caliper carriers, wheel hubs, clean the corrosion making it look like new. *Reuse Original metal brake shims cleaned up well with a wirebrush & brake cleaner this should prevent brake squeal. At a later date will bleed the brakes but the brake fluid tester I have indicates still 'OK' Initial review Brake pedal travel has reduced, initial bite is fantastic & stopping much better, with the bonus of what appears to be low dust being generated done approx 200+ miles, taking it easy for the first 500 or so miles. There is a bed in procedure for track use but I didn't follow that as I don't intend to track the car in my case it wasn't necessary. Perfectly fine for fast street use. Would I recommend them absolutely! & no I'm not sponsored, unfortunately! They seem to be good quality the discs come coated. I guess longevity will only reveal itself overtime can always report back. A few pics should it motivate anybody to do their own.

Apology not read the full thread. My friend had a crank no start condition in a Toyota Auris petrol, recently turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. Have you tried replacement?

I wouldnt worry at all I have exactly the same experience. More apparant when the Engine switches to EV mode. Mines on approx 55k cleaned the MAF sensor, new air filter, spark plugs, throttle body cleaned. Just to give you reassurance Iv seen a Camry Hybrid on 520,000 km in Dubai before now very reassuring. Lexus is more than capable of handling big miles if maintained that should put your mind at ease. The rust in the UK will likely rot it before the engine gives up.

Try this link for the bluetooth battery monitor: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Victron-Energy-Battery-10-meters-Chargers/dp/B07RTYGMBD/ref=asc_df_B07RTYGMBD/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=218091934260&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16198952007030427484&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-753464671886&psc=1&mcid=2c7883ebed4c32e59dcb2bbdfe1f201d Alternatively https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Monitor-Campervans-Compatible-bluetooth/dp/B08VHMJYXY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.g3ROYjuAUFy5eUCi_SnmeMqf-MnlHrtBucJTAGR84I8gOl27RVXZdPR-sx3hQDsuRBzLx8Fjnt6Flf2KYeom-EzLvavKbQ_zOkkcahPEK01E70glNgY28d3Y43hG_pHC-SRadYtPrw1gfB6dykoZaYPmthCjnONwxIbsEn7z1--PYalH257U6rDiVJ_cPUe5MQ9LwAzrfPmWgUTdCTylTA.G_pg3nidzVUFcROai8SBnw3XWQzUrOqysFtVt1bu4BI&dib_tag=se&keywords=12v+battery+monitor&qid=1712602103&sr=8-3

I have been watching my 12v battery like a Hawk. Installed a Victron 12v battery bluetooth monitor even after a long drive or after fully charging it using a Noco Genius 5 it seems to rest around 12.2v within 24 hours. Iv left mine 2 weeks straight without use & it starts up right away. - How close is your key to your car when locked up its constantly sending a signal? - Disable smart entry or put the key in a signal blocker pouch. - Turn off your auto headlights? - Any hardwired dashcam? Or other accessory Recommend you Invest in a Noco GB40 JUMP START pack charged in the boot, you wont be left stranded again. If its left unused these batteries draining quick is normal due to low capacity 45AH is a small battery. keep us updated pls

42MPG sounds like the norm your never going to consistently acheive diesel territory MPG figures. Only obvious call outs are dont carry unnecessary weight, check tyre pressures, go easy on the throttle but that soon becomes boring. I stopped chasing MPG figures a few months after ownership, I genuinely don't know how people acheive 60+mpg figures over a full tank. To keep pace with traffic or driving it normal without holding traffic does hurt the figures (at least from my experience), the 2.5 engine is not great on economy but neither is it bad, if your coming from a diesel you will feel the MPG drop like I did.

Is it driving the same is the tracking straight wheel centre as can be on a straight road? If not request for a wheel alignment surely it will have an impact on the steering if its taken a wack causing you other issues long term.

Brake calipers leaking is usually because a seal was disturbed or potentially worn out. What brake fluid are you using? Incorrect/contaminated fluid can cause this. Where did you source the new caliper from it should be covered under warranty. Dont automatically assume its the brake caliper itself it could be the brake hose that attaches to the caliper was twisted during installation or a bad washer. Keep an eye on the brake bleed nipple as well. Get an assistance to pump the pedal whilst the wheel is off & you have full access to the caliper to visually see where exactly is the leak coming from. Whilst keeping the brake fluid reservoir topped up. Keep us posted pls.

What post code area do you fall under? Surprised to read this if its happening nationwide its business end of the day for them increasing premium is one thing but to refuse to insure leaves us in a dilemma. Nobody will want to buy these either if thats the case potentially impacting the strong resale value Lexus is known for.

Just had a quick read over your message your hiring an electrician to hardwire a dashcam at your house? Personally I wouldn't be worried you're hiring a tradesman from a reputable source to come & install it for you. Of course, there are always precautions you can take. - Ask for ID & take a pic of it - Any CCTV installed at your house or ringdoor bell capture the footage of them arriving date & time a pic from trom the window usually does the trick (make sure camera sound & flash is off ask your partner for assistance doing this) also get his reg plate. Have to be honest it is overkill but best play safe if your worried. - Politely ask him/her not to leave off your premise without the key - Installing a dashcam with a permanent 12v feed power on will most likely leave your cars 12v battery dead in a number of days if you're not using it frequently. Assuming your doing it so you have parking mode recording in the event of an impact whilst your not with the vehicle it is a handy feature, but ask the installer if there is an option to configure the power management for the camera so it stops recording when the battery voltage drops below say a certain value 12.2 volts to avoid you from being stranded (no start condition). A new battery is usually 12.6volts. If your not hardwiring the camera to the fusebox you really dont need an electrician. Look on youtube how to fit a camera its a 30 min job at most route the cable from your 12v socket under the plastic trim/carpet upto the roof liner & stick it or suction mount on windscreen & your ready to go. If its a one channel camera thats job done. If its 2 channel you will need to route another lead from the front camera to the rear camera to stick on the rear windscreen. Adjust accordingly & configure on your mobile app specific for the camera. - Google maps does the trick with live traffic updates & maps & its free dont bother with updating the cars map. Just purchase a *quality mobile phone charger & phone holder compatible with your mobile. - Focus your efforts on maintaining the car Tyres, brakes, battery wipers, servicing, address if any advisory items from previous MOT test for peace of mind. IS250 for a first car impressive 👏 I'd imagine it may be thirsty on petrol consumption. & What is your insurance cost out of interest?

To summarise - Very outdated tech wise could be classed as boring to some - MPG at best 35-50MPG if driven sensibly mixed driving - Performance wise reasonable capable on motorway speeds - Inner tyre wear is common can get pricey if your a high mileage driver - Reliability cant be touched mechanically/hybrid system - One disadvantage with Lexus parts are expensive but on the positive they do last

Good shout, *some models have a lock that can be accessed hidden just above the number plate where the number plate light panel usually is. Takes abit of effort with key to open look carefully you will find a lock barrel.