IS300FSPORT

Interesting although not convinced that's a healthy C250CDI they are very torquey with over 500nm in standard form it would easily shake off an IS300H without much trouble. This may well be a C220CDI or a petrol version if I was to guess. Only reason I'm confident with saying this is because we have a 250CDI within my circle & they do go quite well. A GS450H would give trouble to one no problem though

I have a friend who has used the IS300H in private cab & then decided to switch to a Corolla Estate Hybrid. The primary reasons were: - Corolla is far more economical - Boot space more convenient for a Taxi - Cheaper to service & on parts - Infotainment system is better for Sat nav/ audio in comparison - Newer models means you can get a later plate to stay in service To add the Suzuki Swace is exactly the same car running gear & cheaper to buy if the Corolla interests you.

Try doing a search on here its been answered many times. The F Sport has brilliant handling with slightly stiffer suspension & many other accessories dials etc Keep in mind the face-lift has Canbus tech vulnerable to theft & maybe higher on insurance not to mention more for road tax if your in the UK

Abarth are suppose to be mini hot hatches from what I've read online, like a Go Kart. Coming from a Lexus does the long term reliability or build quality not worry you though? The swift 1.4 turbo is suppose to be a good contender or the Yaris 1.6T GR 4WD if your getting serious. (Both being Jap) & I agree with the latest IS model not being released in the UK it leaves genuine buyers to look at other models the Germans have a better line up of saloons Lexus will loose out. The ES I'm sure is a great car but it has a Dubai Uber image (just my opinion) it won't attract sales like the IS range. The RX500H would be my choice once the depreciation settles down. In a nice blue/black colour 👌

Interesting subject, where a space saver would normally go is taken up by the High voltage traction battery. Your only option is to carry it in the boot load area. Not a problem if your travelling with one small suitcase but anything more you will struggle. *Your best option is to invest in a 12v tyre compressor-inflator. Will get you of trouble in a puncture situation. Or a tyre plug kit keeps you moving again. (Although no use if the tyre is damaged on the side wall) There is an inflator supplied with the car & its usually mounted above the 12v battery on the left side in the boot remove the cover to find it, although worth noting t's designed to only be used with the tyre sealant it doesn't have a female connector compatible to connect directly to the tyre valve. The RAC/AA now carry universal space saver to let you continue with your journey so no point worrying too much. Take precautions check tyre pressure before any long journey etc

Try a few different dealerships for availability you will probably have to pay for a 'diagnostic fee', & if your on good terms with the dealer they may just offer you a courtesy car. Or act interested in purchasing another model see it they will loan it to you whilst yours is getting repaired if you like it you may just consider buying it ;) Plan B - Alternatively book a hire car for the dates your traveling (may not necessarily need one) but you get the best deals usually booking in advance. Thinking about it may just be a 12v battery dying £200 (guestimate) fitted & your on your way. Don't want to state the obvious but you get that same error I think if you shift into Drive too quickly after pushing start.

Duplicated - delete

I have experimented with battery voltage before now & too many different readings. After a full charge within 24 hours it gradually seems to rest around the 12.3. You need to remember as soon as you open the Drivers door your consuming voltage from the 12v battery, it charges the brake module before even pressing start, & even more voltage when your in accessory mode as its powering up all the computers. If on auto Headlights, wipers, etc Another way is to measure it in the morning (resting voltage) is what your looking for to get a real indication of the charge its holding. Use a volt meter from the boot connecting directly to the battery that way your not waking up any of the computers. Although I now have a permanent hardwired bluetooth module connected to the battery 'Victron energy smart battery sense' I can monitor the 12v without waking up the car sat in my front room. Typically after a drive it seems to rest around 12.5-12.6v. Charging it once a month never ran into any issues even if its stood for a week 12.1v is the lowest iv seen it with a dash cam activated in parking mode when I'm in suspect areas.

Depending on your mileage & what sort of roads your car is primarily used for to be fair, that doesn't look too bad the only the reason its obvious is because it's on a darker colour after a good wash I doubt a brush would do that (more likeky to get swirl marks with a brush) I'm sure mine have these stone chips too but its not so obvious with mine being white. Looks like stone chips a respray job is your best option if its just the bumper & then perhaps get the clear protection film applied if your planning on keeping it. If your feeling brave a fine brush to touch it up with matching paint stick, but if it goes wrong it will look terrible. Personally I wouldn't chance it on an expensive motor do it right. P.S you could try a dark Polish/compound but it will return after a few washes. I have used poorboys Polish before now & achieved good results. Let somebody more experienced with detailing add their input. Poorboys Black Hole 473ml https://amzn.eu/d/08zMYb6l

Might be cheaper to glue it back together it just lifts the carpet?It has no real function or impact to anything else. Wouldn't bother replacing it.

Another place to look at is the rear wheel arch liner. Wearing a glove run your hand inside the rear wheel arch. You may be surprised to find how much mud & dirt collects up there which I think contributes to wheel arch paintwork bubbling/rust. When I wash the car it's now my routine to clean inside there to remove the accessible dirt.

Out of the box majority of them will come with a 12v male socket to plug & play. The hardwire kit is required for parking mode where you will need to tap into the fuse box for a constant power supply it doesn't matter which dashcam you opt for as long as it has a power management feature where it will cut the power when your 12v battery drops below a certain parameter. That link you shared is a decent price enquire with the seller if which cable they supply just for confirmation.

LenT has a have a very good point the older Blackvue dashcam had no power management features to detect voltage drop hence why it was regulated by the Power magic pro (anicient looking device) it looks like they have since progressed developed power management software within the dashcam. You no longer need the Blackvue power magic pro kit just a simple 12v cable hardwired to the Fuse box as it will still need to be powered when the ignition is off. You can find it on Amazon for the X Series decent price in comparison to the powermagic pro. https://www.amazon.co.uk/BlackVue-Hardwire-Cable-X-Series/dp/B0CW21SDSV/ref=asc_df_B0CW21SDSV/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=691938792676&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5221880813021227624&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046656&hvtargid=pla-2306779403507&psc=1&mcid=81d2d9bc0d553f6797bfece84289fbee&th=1&psc=1&gad_source=1

For parking mode yes it needs to be hardwired to the fuse box. Surprised no stock on Amazon/Ebay Quick Google search found these sellers https://blackvueuk.co.uk/product/blackvue-power-magic-pro/ https://www.dashwitness.com/shop/accessories/blackvue-power-magic-pro-2/

Nice one nothing like abit of Internet Diagnostics (guesswork) haha Out of interest what mileage has yours done? You probably already know this but as a precaustion just to be on the safe side avoid driving it unless necessary you may run into overheating & other problems, unless you can source abit of coolant temporarily to top it up.

++ I have a similiar sound rest your mind it's not a problem. Maybe not as loud as yours I think your recording is close up hence why it's audible in the video. When in EV mode the inverter is still circulating coolant it's an electric pump sound, that pump you can't see it's under the reservoir bottle. Keep in mind it's still charging the high voltage battery instead of an engine sound its the equivalent EV motor. Just double check you have enough coolant if it's low could explain why the pumps working harder in theory the coolant shouldn't need topping up as its sealed. There are reports of water pump leaking look for a pink crusty powder near the aux belt the water pump is mounted behind the belt. Your image above is the throttle body, subject to your mileage the throttle plate could benefit a clean but that's unlikely to make a sound. To get to that it's just a 10mm spanner follow the air filter box remove the rubber pipe & you will find the throttle body.

What tools are required for the job?

Thanks for sharing I followed your dashcam install guide previously & used the IG1 fuse tap. Now I'm thinking is it worth picking out a different fuse thats not critical? Thankfully it happened at standstill it may have been a different result had it been on a motorway/rolling, loosing power doesn't sound fun no steering or engine power. Alternatively cable tie around the fuse tap around the fuse box (if possible) or perhaps duct tape to avoid accidentally pulling out the fuse again just to secure it.

Try M6 eyelet, M8 may have abit of play but once you tighten the nut down it will clamp on I just checked my Amazon order history the cable I ordered was M6 was a straight fit from what I remember.

To install a dashcam it is fairly straightforward look on youtube for a guide. Worth buying a 12v socket extension of Amazon/Ebay so you have extra socket for a phone charger etc Plug & play out of the box It's just a matter of plugging into the 12v cigarette socket inside the arm rest & routing the cable under the plastic trim past the passenger footwell & up the rubber strip upto the roof liner any excess cable just tuck it into a safe gap or make adjustments ideally closer to the 12v socket so you dont get cable overhang. . Power it up with ignition on position it where you want it to be mounted (don't put the sticky pad on yet) ensure clearance so that you can press the WIFI button & remove the SD card without a struggle. If you opt for the 2 channel the cable supplied will connect to the front dashcam again simple as rooting the cable past the roof liner to the mid section of the rear windscreen. Just be careful not to stick over the heater element on the visible lines removing the sticker at a later date can potentially damage the rear heat demister from functioning. If your on a budget go with a simple setup. On Ebay the official Blackvue store sell new & refurbished units. I have purchased a refurb for my family member 3 years ago & it's still going so just abit of reassurance. Again recommend the Blackvue without the cloud setup there may be a subscription cost. The simplest option is one that has a WIFI connectivity if your ever in an incident you simply download the recording to your phone via the Blackvue app or you also have the option to remove the SD Card & put it into another device to view like a laptop etc. This is the most simple setup. Now where it gets technical is when you want to record whilst away from the vehicle. Known as parking mode where (impact is detected) this setup can be configured from the settings adjust sensitivity or motion sensor which is useless unless your car is in a garage it records any moving object so I disabled it. This option will need to have the dashcam hardwired into the cars fusebox. The blackvue power magic pro is an add on power management device that will stop recording once it detects voltage drop below certain parameters I.e 11.8v Or after a set timeframe 24 hours it can be configured from the box slightly complex to understand the switch settings. Keep in mind the LEXUS 12v Hybrids use a small capacity battery to begin with so having parking mode active permanently won't do it any favours as you have high risk of a no start situation due to a flat battery, but it's useful to have when parking in suspect places. Although blackvue also sell battery packs which are expensive so no need to tap into the fuse box. Need to have an understanding of which wire to tap into the fusebox switched vs permanent & a suitable ground location. Here you go a few pics from my installation if it helps.

Can echo this having replaced the battery on my driveway back in 2021. No need for any coding or reset procedure, there is no alternator to worry about overcharging the battery the main traction battery is intelligent enough to keep the battery optimised. Its as simple as ensuring ignition is off & remove the battery clamp disconnect Negative first followed by positive. Fit the new battery & clamp it down ensuring vent tube is connected. Easy DIY just need a 10mm spanner from what I remember. Radio & Sat Nav continued working without any hiccup.

Does your charger have a fuse to protect voltage overload & spark protection feature? I have connected the Positive cable directly to the battery & negative directly to the battery countless times never had an issue. Connect the cables first then switch on your charger. Just be careful with the positive cable being close to the jack maybe cover it with a cloth. For info I'm using the Noco Genius 5 I was connecting the crocodile clips directly to the battery. Now I have the quick connect lead permanently connected to the battery terminals literally plug and recharge once every couple of months don't need to remove the battery cover anymore either. CTEK sell a quick connect lead Here's my setup if it helps

Blackvue 2CH Dashcam, highly recommend it. Looks stealth unlikely to attract theifs reducing chances of a break in & can be hardwired to having parking mode. Had mine for 5-6 years not a single issue been very reliable. & we have it in a few other cars within the family. Fitted just behind the mirror with a sticky gel pad supplied with the kit out of the box. Example. https://www.halfords.com/technology/dash-cams/blackvue-dr590x-2ch-front%2Frear-dash-cam-with-32gb-microsd-card-461702.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=iaixxlmit&istBid=t&&_$ja=tsid:|cid:17253794308|agid:|tid:|crid:|nw:x|rnd:9450517387123089780|dvc:m|adp:|mt:|loc:9046656&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwvIWzBhAlEiwAHHWgvfJb7rlV1ANQ61l4RwBwVIuXPavIS1XHHA9NzegOiHS8gHC1NqhXCRoC-3gQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

That's useful but notice it states if removing calipers your not physically removing the caliper other than pushing the piston back to be able to fit the new pads. "Hi, it’s same as on non hybrid car however there is one very important step before you start with the change. You have to depressurised the system and disconnect the Battery before you carry any work on the brakes that involved removing the calipers

If it was serviced at Lexus & passed the Hybrid check you should have a 12 month warranty irrespective if its been maintained within the main dealer network or not historically. Under the Lexus Relax scheme you should be covered, best to enquire with your dealer. Have you had the cooling fan & filter serviced (cleaned) ? if not try that first before ruling out a dead cell when it's blocked up with dust etc owners may experience errors or overheating usually throwing out a cooling performance is low warning message on the dash.