IS300FSPORT

Consider getting the AC refrigerant level checked it may be running fine but low potentially running dry which could cause further damage. If it has been serviced by Lexus within the last 12 months it may qualify a repair under warranty as its not over 10 year old yet.

That seems to be like a mechanical spinning sound that needs abit of lubrication. Really difficult to diagnose a sound from a video. Start with checking the coolant is at the correct level for the inverter pump & engine. Both of the reservoirs where there is pink coolant to see if it quietens down. As for ruling out if its related to thr AC system does it still do it with the AC turned off?

The EBC brakes seem to be OE quality although I did get a very faint squeal from them after 1000 Miles when coming to a complete stop. I have since removed the shim plate that was fitted to the pad & used the original Lexus shims now it's nice & quiet. Performance wise haven't had a chance put it through a hard session where they get a chance to heat up. Must admit the initial brake bite is noticeable stronger especially from cold. No issues with the install as long as you do not open the brake bleeder nut when pushing the caliper piston in can't see you having a problem. Just remember to push the brake pedal a few times to build up pressure before you set off on your initial drive after a pad change. Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir when pushing the caliper piston in if the fluid was overfilled it can pour out it shouldn't go past the max line. Easily corrected with a suction pump or srynge.

There are quite a few videos on youtube. Step 1 - Ensure ignition & lights are OFF (V important) DRIVER SIDE 10mm socket & long extension remove the 10mm bolts on the air box, and the clamp that joins the rubber pipe to the air box. Disconnect the MAF Sensor. You should now be able to remove the housing gently maneuvering the box out away from the duct. Disconnect the plug to the ballast, & twist the cover off anti-clock turn. Now you will have access to the ignitor twist that & place the ballast in a safe place. Remove the clip holding the bulb & remove the bulb. Insert new bulb only goes in one way put the clip back on. Reattach the ignitor to the plug twist back on & the ballast remember to attach the plug & test it before you put the air filter box back in (NOTE this step is not necessary) but if you have big hands you will struggle just makes it so much easier & gives you access to see what your doing. Passenger side Is the same but miles easier by just removing the windscreen washer bottle neck it pulls out. As for brakes there are loads of guides on youtube the principle is the same. Rust proofing requires preparation invest in ramps & axle stands. Really depends on how far you want to go with buying the tools etc. I do an undercarriage wash post winter it slows down the corrosion suspension & chassis still looks fairly fresh.

Update purchased the Osram night breaker laser & fitted them today 20 min job at the most, access is good once the air filter housing Box was removed & for the left side just remove the windscreen bottle pipe. Should it help anybody else in the future. Dipped beam & full beam on a darker quiet road. This is on a slightly wet road we had rain earlier. What's evident is the way the lamp distributes the light on the side certainly helps with being able to see kerbs & pot holes to avoid on our lovely British roads. The colour seems white with a hint of yellow, although I do prefer the cool white look maybe next time. Seem quite expensive for what you get is it worth it? Will decide that on how long the bulbs last.

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Follow the air con pipes it won't be far from the air con radiator condenser. Look for the high pressure & low pressure port. As soon as you loosen it though you will loose all the refrigerant. Your best option is to buy the sensor & get an AIR CON specialist to remove the refrigerant fit the sensor & top it back up regas as necessary. Look on Ebay you can source the part approx £56 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315206429749?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7wb4zibgrxy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=m3fnkB75QhS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=WHATS_APP

@LenT & @J Henderson - Thats great & thanks for sharing. Now I'm split between the 2, from looking at them pics the cool blue variant appear bright enough & it may just make the car look abit more modern like BMW/Mercedes that have the cool white effect.

Do you recommend the cool blue variants? Again any pics pls

Thanks do you have any pictures with the lights in use at night pls

Have any of you used the OSRAM night breaker bulbs? I'm looking for more brightness than the standard bulbs as they are not great. If anybody has fitted them longevity wise how long did they last? & more importantly would you recommend them? Reading reviews online it's OSRAM nightbreaker vs Phillips xtreme vision. Alot of reviews indicate they have a short lifespan which isn't great because they are not cheap. Approx £135 from Amazon. Fitting is not a problem.

If I had to guess it's either a bad wheel bearing in which case you will hear a rumbling sound & it gets louder as you drive. Or potentially a failing sticking brake caliper or slider pins causing the pads to stick to the disc as you build up speed it is applying a brake on the impacted side potentially causing a vibration through your steering. An obvious check is ensure your wheel nuts are torqued correctly I really hope they are not loose. & check there isn't a small stone or rock stuck in your tyre treads (unlikely).

@dazzlar To be fair you have done a good job! That's how it should have left the factory matches your car colour. I think moving forward I will remember to remove the plastic cover after winter has passed & wash it down to prevent the road salt as that is what causes the corrosion. Also worth calling out the bugs & flies that stick to the air con condenser radiator is worth cleaning/washing down whilst the plastic trim is removed.

Thanks for this post it motivated me to check mine today whilst the weather's holding out. Mine is a 2015 It's starting to rust but nothing dramatic just yet. This is post a degrease session. Think it should be alright for a couple more years.

Looks excessive for a 15 reg of course it depends on the environment I.e if it lives on the motorway or near a beach or flooded roads etc It should be as simple as sanding it down, primer it & can of spray from Halfords to freshen it up to try & slow down any future corrosion. Whilst your at it inspect the underside brake pipes & chassis for corrosion. Is it a flood damaged car by any chance?

++ You can get it done cheaper & it's not a massive job or overly complex. Genuine parts are recommended to retain the ride quality but get a 2nd opinion if the shock is actually leaking or if it's a money making scheme. Try doing a bounce test. Also do it in pairs you can imagine the other one isn't far behind if one is leaking to improve the comfort level & balance do it as a pair. Another option is to find a Breaker on Ebay a car with front end damage rear shocks will be fine if low mileage. Genuine parts. Genuine part for one shock is £149.83 x2 = £299.66. Add another £200 for labour from a regular independent garage approx so for £500 both sides can be done. Also if I may suggest stay away from Kwik fit for alignment, for that I'd stick with main dealer or an alignment specialist in your area with a hunter system they will give you before and after print out after doing alignment of the full setup. May even be able to adjust to reduce inner tyre wear. https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-3-rear-shock-absorber-2/

Get the rear shock done first then the alignment as it will disturb the alignment when they remove the suspension components.

If the pads are wearing evenly and are at 9mm they are literally still like new. Get the caliper replaced under warranty & then have the brakes serviced or replaced else where for a fraction of the cost. No need for replacement unless the pad has been overheating? In which case it will be glazed because of it being stuck you may want to consider getting new disc and pads & be done with it. I'd suggest using a reputable independent garage if you need to have the brakes done as they are likely to grease the slider pins & at the same time have the rear brake shoes adjusted so your parking brake holds on a hill.

Brilliant result! What mileage has your car done? & what sort of MPG are you seeing after the battery install?

Have you done a mileage history check on the gov site?

+1 & some of you may be pleasantly surprised how easy these cars are to work on. It's no different than working on say a Yaris. The Hybrid system is what generally puts people off but your unlikely to go anywhere near it when doing routine or basic servicing. A few youtube tutorials & not only do you save some pennies but also the satisfaction of knowing the job has been done properly. Stick with genuine parts where possible & keep the invoices & when it comes to selling it potential buyers are unlikely to debate.

From the Gov site Hydraulic brake fluid level checks are confined to transparent reservoirs, reservoir caps should not be removed. On many vehicles, you will not be able to see if the brake fluid is contaminated. You should only fail a vehicle if you can clearly see that the fluid is contaminated. Defect Category (a) Brake fluid contaminated Major

What's important is check how the current tyres are wearing if there is Inner/outer wear on the edges more so than normal consider getting wheel alignment done & an inspection on the suspension components. It's false economy to throw on new tyres if the wheel alignment is out it will only wear out the new tyres within 10k or so.

Had Nexen before I threw them away plenty of thread left but the shoulder started cracking the rubber compound seemed hard. & could even get the traction light to blink without trying. I think they are a Chinese budget brand but I could well be wrong. For tyres go with Mid range or Premium brands that are well recognised. It's safety so don't compromise. I've been running UniRoyal Rainsport 5 for nearly 3 years fantastic in the Rain in Manchester we typically see Rain so if your up North of the UK I recommend an A rated tyre for Rain followed by rolling resistance the more economical it will be where you may see an improvement in MPG. Online tyre shopper is where I got them from with mobile tyre fitting around £400 from what I remember for all 4 may have been on a deal at the time.

Recently stripped a rear caliper down on a 10 year old Civic that never had a brake fluid change it was evident it had suffered corrosion on the piston. It is a good idea to change brake fluid at a minimum every 3-4 years. From working in the trade there are a lot of reason why calipers seize. Typically a bad rubber seal for the piston is the primary cause, followed by infrequent use low mileage drivers, brake fluid contaminated or just age & high water content. Brake servicing is even more important on Hybrids due to the lack of effort involved with the brakes due to regen hybrid system. I did the IS300H front & rear brake bleed with a vacuum pump all in it took me 1 hour & the hardest part is removing the wheel nuts. Fronts are 10mm brake bleed nipple & rear was 8mm. Attach a vacuum pump & flush out reservoir it took exactly 1L all in. In all honesty the brake pedal feel is exactly the same the last time it was done at Lexus in 2021 according to the invoice so in 3 years it's at 1% measured with a brake fluid tester (not the most accurate) but it is a good indicator now its at 0% water content will monitor it see how quickly it absorbs water. This is worth a watch