IS300FSPORT

I recently tried Osram Night Breaker returned them & got a refund from Amazon. The Visibility was improved over OEM but for me the yellow light output wasnt for me. I prefer the more modern look white with a hint of blue light output so changed too Osram Cool blue boost. Note this bulb is rated as 'Off road' use only. I have had them in a couple of months now with no ill effects driven past many Police cars & nobody has flashed me unless I have them on full beam which is understandable. Beam pattern is set from factory so no issues with the auto headlight adjustment taking control. Osram night breaker (fitted & removed) Osram cool blue

It's certainly worth doing but the key is to get it done before the rust starts developing otherwise it's not effective. However I do recommend to get it done by a specialist people who day it day to day. As ideally certain components and plastic trims have to be removed to get into the sections that you can't usually reach. Purchased a car before now an old boy had it done by a garage & they just covered the entire under chassis including the brake pipes making it deceiving, come MOT time the tester would just put down as advisory "brake pipes covered in grease or other material" as you don't really know the true condition. I have an under carriage pressure washer & it seems to do a good job do it once a month from Jan-April, post winter removing the road salt is what causes it. Since owning mine over the last couple of years can't say i've seen the under chassis or brake pipes corroded. Wipe down the brake pipes still looking newish. Setup Example

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330d Or M340d would be a nice upgrade if I was a BMW fan. IS300H gets the job done without a fuss for future you can be assured ten years from now the IS will still be rolling where as a hybrid from other manufacturers the battery pack has probably packed in or ready to be scrapped as it's not worth the cost. Toyota/Lexus hold the crown for hybrid cars check autotrader for abit of clarity. Resale wise Lexus in general have a strong resale value so maybe worth slightly more than your average rival but in 10 years petrol engines will still be around diesel will probably get phased out because of emissions although they are the best all rounder for high mileage drivers. Lexus hybrid as long as they are emissions compliant theyl likely continue to be in demand for areas where the gov sp4nk us. In the UK German vehicle takes the market, Lexus in the US is popular but not over here unless the market drastically changes (unlikely) observed people would rather have a tired high mileage 3 series over a well looked after equivalent Lexus simply because of the badge to look cool infront of their friends.

From reading up on here the 2016 onwards or the face-lift versions have the canbus. Although not many reports of the IS300H being a prime target. I'm sure others will confirm shortly may not be prone to the headlight hack for theft. If theifs are eager they will take it regardless of the amount of effort or force required as its not a high performance vehicle these are just your opportunists with high tech equipment steal it to break for parts or ship out although can't see the IS being desirable to theifs as a result insurance has hiked since iv had mine from 2020 it was around 550 now paying 900 (approx) & mine is the pre-facelift simply because insurers are banding all the Lexus range at high risk absolute p1ss take but the RX is the one to watch out for on insurance. I genuinely wouldn't worry about it if your on the hunt for an IS.

Check the front anti-roll bar links a clunk is usually from that or worst case the front shock absorbers are worn out look for a fluid leak. Can't see it being the lower/upper control arms if low mileage. Them brakes looking at the video look newish so doubt it's the brakes unless they didn't torque the bolts up properly.

Delivered from Scotland interesting they seem to get harsher winter in comparison to us in Manchester) i'd be getting it on a ramp & doing an inspection for corrosion etc. It's hard to diagnose a sound from a video on the Internet but you get a good feel of a car when driving it. Generally speaking though it's very unlikely to give you trouble so rest your mind a little hopefully it's a good purchase.

Doesn't sound unusual I get the odd groan/squeak after being stood still for a coupe of days. As long there isn't a knock I'd say nothing to worry about. Get the disc and pads checked not just for the wear, check for corrosion brake discs & ensure slider pins are moving freely. Keep in mind the brakes operate differently on a hybrid they tend to rust out before they wear out if the car is low mileage sat parked doesn't do it any favours reports of seized calipers etc. Take it for a good test drive applying brakes heavily obviously in a safe environment to see if it makes any noticeable difference to the noise.

Did you get the tyres replaced? As mentioned in an earlier post the belt within a tyre can be defective speaking from experience. Acknowledge it's a tricky one to rule out with out spending extra cash. Worst case you can always sell on your current tyres to recover some of the money, assuming they prove to be good & still have reasonable amount of tread left.

It is a tricky one to diagnose if the issue doesn't persist. Could well be the 12v battery contributing towards issues (low voltage) if it is slowly dying random electric gremlins. Or a battery within the sensor itself. Just wait until it lights up permanently nothing to worry about if all 4 are holding pressure. Should be fine for MOT if the light remains off

It is overpriced for the mileage/age. 9.5-10k would be a good deal. If you really like it request for an under chassis video to see how much corrosion it has to make an informed decision. If rusty walkaway it will only get worse over time. Around 90k the following items may be due. - Disc and pads If corroded or worn - Tyre pressure sensors - Water pump - Inverter & radiator coolant - x4 tyres if not changed (check age of tyres rather than the wear) - Shock absorbers leaking or rotted springs & drop links etc - Bodywork rust spots/ stone chipping the paint isnt the greatest on Lexus id recommend inspecting closely as dealers have a habit of polishing bodywork to hide swirl marks & light scratches after a couple of washes it becomes evident & you will be gutted if you spot it post sale. Generally though these cars are capable of mega miles so don't be worried about reliability it's just added expense more wear & tear items you can ask to be replaced if they look like they are due to save you abit of cost in the near future. If maintained by Lexus you get the added warranty so abit of peace of mind. Although of course the 99 point check or whatever they promise is questionable.

Where are you located?

Going to a dealership is a primarily for the service record & resale of the vehicle making it more appealing. & the added bonus of an extended warranty at least with the Lexus/Toyota line up. Have to agree with you I also experienced a similar issue but with Honda that had a Full service history it doesn't mean anything if items are neglected for cost saving shortcuts. Mine was also a filthy air filter it does make you question what else are they claiming to have done but haven't? There are posts on here where the differential fluid hasn't been changed either without putting up a fight. On a positive on the IS300H it is a 60 second job to change the air filter just a couple of clips don't even need a screwdriver. Win win!

Pls try the search button on the forum its been answered many times. In summary they are fantastic cars not much goes wrong with them. 12v batteries can be weak if low mileage or unused for prolonged periods. The usual wear & tear items subject to mileage brake disc & pads, water pumps, tyres, & check the corrosion depending on where the car has lived. Northern cars seem to suffer rust abit more than usual. Good luck 👍

Where are you located?

Purchase this tool it's a 10 min job all in just to do the belt. Laser 8331 Stretch Belt Removal & Fitting Tool https://amzn.eu/d/aHVreHp Haven't done the water pump yet but again it's very accessible once the belt is off. Key is to ensure the bleed procedure is completed by putting the car into maintenance mode to let the engine run to prevent an air lock.

Yes unless you have a spare to swap out with

Belt in one of tyres gone bad. I had this very issue many years ago replacement set of tyres fixed it.

If the rear disc refuses to come off with the bolt then it means the handbrake is still holding the brake shoe. Ensure handbrake is off. As explained just adjust the star wheel through the inspection hole until you feel it loosen up, no harm in assisting it with a rubber mallet from behind the disc since your replacing the disc anyway but do not force it off. Its a fairly straightforward job just readjust the shoes until it has a slight bind & your good to go. You can always adjust the handbrake cable from the foot pedal if necesary to take up any slack with a 10mm deep socket. Did mine a month before the MOT & no issues with imbalance. The brakes shoes just hold the car on a hill when the handbrake is applied it has no effect to the actual hybrid system or braking functionality.

Download the Lexuslink app & register. In the UK you need to enter your vin/log book number & it should allow you to view under the 'Service & maintenance' option. Here's a snap from mine displays history of everytime it's visited a dealer.

The sensor is a one piece unit what did they hand to you? Did they remove the tyre from the wheel to repair the puncture? If they did wouldn't be surprised if theyr now blaming another tyre place. Either way a reputable tyre repair shop should be able to fit a new sensor & reprogram it for you to get rid of the tyre pressure light.

I did the brakes all around & I don't recall running into a problem because of clearance. The front brakes caliper carriers are easier to remove as you can turn the wheel towards you to get a Breaker bar in to remove the bolts, but with the rears you don't have that option. If your bolts are super tight you need to jack the rear up high enough with axle stands in place, get underneath to get clearance with a breaker bar for extra leverage & abit of muscle, 1/2 ratchet with a socket will stand up to a few hammer hits better than 3/8. or just invest in a power tool with extension bars I purchased a Milwaukee stubby impact driver a while back & it's got me out of trouble many times not cheap but makes life so much easier when removing wheel nuts and bolts around the cars I work on it pays itself of after a couple of uses (so I tell myself) I dont recommend using a spanner your more likely to strip the bolts.

Replacing the rear disc is not a difficult job however you need to have a bit of knowledge on how to deal with a potential problem should you run into it. Always do one side first taking a picture for reference if it helps with reassembling. *Ensure handbrake is off & front wheels are chocked. You need the handbrake off to be able to remove the disc, if the handbrake is on the shoes act like a clamp against the inside of the brake disc. DO NOT FORCE THE DISC OFF! Or you risk breaking a spring & the shoes will fall apart! Believe me you will have a bad day if that happens as it's a head scratcher trying to put it all back together. Tip Wirebrush the bolts if corroded, & ensure the socket is fully on the bolt to avoid stripping the bolts & use a penetrating oil to avoid snapping any bolts. 1/2 breaker bar or ratchet is far better than the 3/8 ratchet you can get more torque in. Sometimes heat is required but that's a last resort. Once the disc is off use a can of brake cleaner to remove the brake dust from the shoes & connected components it will prolong the life & helps with the operation of moving parts. A M8 X 1.25 Bolt - will assist with removing the disc from the shoes. However if there is friction & the disc still refuses to come off remove the rubber inspection plug & using a light look for a star wheel to adjust the shoes inwards to free off the disc. Count the number of turns if you want to set it back to how it was however once the new disc is on you will need to readjust the star & reapply the handbrake to ensure the shoes are tight enough to hold the car on a hill. There should be slight friction with the handbrake off. Note this is what takes time to avoid an MOT failure because your handbrake is either v loose & won't hold the vehicle on a hill or overly tightened will result in brake shoes wearing quickly & the brakes binding. You can always readjust at a later date though if your MOT is a while off, as once the disc & pad & caliper carrier is assembled you just need to remove the rubber inspection plug to adjust the shoes. Regrease the slider pins & cleaning the corrosion from the caliper carrier & clips is really important. The piston is push in type. Hope this helps.

Swap them back to see if it resolves your problem? Aa above your alloys maybe rubbing against your brake caliper due to no clearance. When you jacked the car up did you chock the wheels by any chance to stop it rolling? If you did may be you forgot to remove it from one of the wheels. What your describing sounds like a driveshaft has popped out of the hub/gearbox but very unlikely after just doing a wheel swap.

+1 consider it as preventative maintenance. It really does vary on the environment & vehicle use. I can only imagine a pet will contribute towards blocking the filter quicker than normal or if your regularly transporting materials that might block the filter than usual i.e recyle centre trips or if it's used as a Taxi. Ask yourself how likely are the back seats going to be used in a pensioners car? This may explain why it takes years for it to surface as an actual problem where the odd owner will get the cooling performance is low warning message. For info it is a mesh type of material that filters out the dust from reaching the fan/battery. I have done it twice in the last 3 years its a 30 minute job, looks intimidating but it really isnt. The first time it was evident the mesh had trapped dust around 6 years old may have been the first time it was ever done. The 2nd time I did it was 2 years later & it still looked nice & clean. Modern Hybrids have a paper type of filter that can be replaced I.e the corolla. It's the heat that typically reduces the battery life. If it's serviced by Lexus you have nothing to worry about for 15 years after that your on your own.