IS300FSPORT

Top tip for you make sure it was serviced every 10,000 miles or annually. So if its a 2015 should have 7 service stamps. Main dealers wont tell you if it has a gap i.e not serviced every year. I know somebody that got bit recently on this. Ensure tyres & brakes dont need replacement in the next year as well to save you abit of cost. & check previous years advisory work has been completed otherwise you will be picking up the bill. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

It is best practise to use new washers.

Fair enough your entitled to your own view will leave it at that.

Funny you should mention that I did consider getting a can of black spray paint on the diff case, but I didnt fancy doing a half hearted job. I'd need to wire brush all the surface rust off primer it & then spray it but that involves time & effort. I have seen plenty of high mileage GS models from the 90s none reported to have the case corrode away. So its just cosmetic doesnt bother me in all fairness. Once you start cleaning & spraying one area the rest of the under carriage looks corroded so where do you stop? Im ok with it looking like an honest car its not a garage queen so its going to have some form of wear showing as long as its presentable at MOT it does not bother me.

100k + miles may be cheaper at purchase however long term it soon wipes out the savings & Lexus parts & labour is not cheap. - Suspension shock absorbers springs corroded or worn out - Suspension arms double wishbone rubber bushings wear out - Water pump usually go after 100k, & coolant/invertor requires replacement - Brake disc & pads likely due replacement too - Aux belt - High voltage traction battery may also be tired - Hybrid filter & fan requires clean and replacement - Diff & transmission fluid replacement - Spark plugs at 120 (60k interval) - Not to mention under carriage & bodywork suffer more corrosion at high mileage in the UK due to salty roads. The parts soon add up so keep all this in mind at purchase & resale value also at a loss. Unless your good at DIY its v costly so be careful with high mileage examples.

If it helps £16,800 for a 2015 F Sport in White & Rose Red Leather 44,000 miles Heated & cooled seats, Sat nav, 18 alloys etc I paid that in July 2021 with a standard 1 year warranty. & from looking online I havent made a loss yet. I was gutted at the time for paying around 1500 extra than what they were going for in 2020 but I havent spent a penny on it other than servicing & tyres which I changed out because they were budget tyres.

Lexus attracts a certain type of character marketed or usually in the hands of the more mature people. Dont buy it if you intend to do mods on it, it just does not suit this type of car. Its actually a bigger version of a Prius & everybody knows theyr not cool & dont have the street cred. Saying that if you keep as it is without turning it into a chav mobile you will appreciate how well built they are generall very reliable in standard form. All the best!

Greetings All, I have been taking useful info from here since buying my car over a year ago but have not made any posts so here is my contrubution should it help anybody. If any of you plan on doing a DIY differential fluid change on an IS300H. Its a fairly straight forward job I have done mine at 50,000 miles on 2015 model it may well be the same on GS models too. Although my car has a full service history from Lexus none of the invoices listed the item no or job so in all honesty im not convinced its ever been checked or changed. The oil was fairly fresh Id say it could go on another 50k on normal use, but for peace of mind and as I intend to keep the car long term I just changed it. I do appreciate some may argue its a lifetime fluid so why bother but the debris of the metal particles is what can cause a problem if left unattended. I didnt have much dirt stuck on the magnet either. Tools required: - 10mm Hex - Brake Cleaner to wipe away old fluid - Cloth/old rag - Bucket to catch old fluid - Extension and Ratchet - Diff fluid 75w-85 GL5 1.3-1.4L so you need x2 1L bottles (part number 08885-81060) approx £17 a litre. Call it £35 with delivery from most retailers on ebay. - Fluid Transfer srynge/pump - £10 - Wire brush Steps involved *** Important & do so at your own risk *** *Ideally the car must be level to get an accurare amount of fluid back in. I drove the car onto a wooden step/ramp to lift it slightly at the front, leave it with the handbrake applied & in Park. Chock the front wheels for extra pre-caution Jack up just under the rear differential to get it level, to the same height as the front & put 4 axle stands under the sills for safety. However like me if you only have 2 axle stands put the 2 axle stands at the rear it is more important as you will be working at the rear of the vehicle. Ensure the top plug is removed first this is the fill plug do not undo the drain plug without knowing you can refill! Then undo the drain plug at the bottom let it drain takes approx 10 minutes to drain. It has quite a strong smell like an old school garage. Once drained put the drain plug back on ideally with new gasket. Tighten up until its reasonably tight apologies I dont have the torque figure. Refil the differential using the fluid transfer pump. Continue pumping until you get a steady flow dripping out until it becomes a drip. I used approx 1.4L the fill is upto the level of the drive shaft it will pour out once full so it cant really be overfilled unless you dont wait for the steady stream to turn into a drip. I believe the dealer will charge in excess of £150+ so not a bad saving. Good luck its not a tough job just requires time & patience if you can do an engine oil change you can do this job. The recommended interval from reading on the internet is every 2nd oil inspect & refill as necessary & change fluid every 30k. Hope this may help somebody someday.