IS300FSPORT

https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-3-auxiliary-12v-starter-battery/ Direct from Lexus £145 + postage call it £155. If you decide to DIY you can potentially save upto £100. Its a 15 minute job at the most the battery is in the boot on the left remove the cover & 10mm spanner for the clamp & terminals very straightforward job. Keep it charged is key if your not using the car regulat use a maintenance charger I use a Noco Genius 5 every 3-6 months.

If you have the access to be able to charge the 12v battery on your drive consider charging the battery with a trickle charger. 6 years is not long but it does depend on how regular the car is used if left unused for days it can deplete the battery especially in cold conditions. Noco Genius 5 can be bought for under £100 charge it every couple of months & you wont have a flat battery issue as long as the battery is in reasonable health. Or if you dont want to be stranded invest in a Noco GB40 booster pack its basically a jump starter without the need for a another car or long wait for recovery. Failing all that just buy a new battery & keep it charged.

Uniroyal Rainsport 5. (Sister company of Continental from reading reviews) Fantastic tyre in the rain, if you like a spiritied drive or even for normal use it does inspire confidence especially in a rear wheel drive. Although some will debate its not a performance car regardless when you need to make progress on country lanes or flooded motorway it prevents aquaplanning. The give away is I dont see the traction light flash anymore in damp conditions I previously had set of Kumhos mid range tyre seen a noticeable difference in handling car feels planted in all weather conditions. Yes the tyre may use a softer compound & I may get 2-3k less mileage but I l accept that if it compensates in terms of wet performance & it is cheaper to buy in comparison to Michellin etc. If your anywhere in the North of England you will know we see a lot of rain. Recently had a set of x4 tyres, a mobile fitter from National tyres including balancing & disposal of old tyres. Overall cost was £374. (Approx 93.50 a tyre) For tyres to last there are so many variables but as an owner obvious checks to prolong the life of tyre. - Wheel alignment - Monthly tyre pressures - Avoid kerb and pot holes where possible etc

https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-3-auxiliary-v-belt/ Directly from the main dealer approx £10 Genuine Part Number: 90916-02742 You may be seeing 2 different sizes online because there was a revision. The part number above is the version I fitted about a month ago stretch belt fitment. The new version is 9mm shorter if im reading it correctly (tight fit) Found a post on this forum regarding this:

Other than your oil & filter change the rest of the list are 'inspection' items & majority of it are the mandatory checks on the annual MOT. Is it really worth paying out so much for a check box? Appreciate with the added benefit of a Lexus service stamp but in truth none of the offerings are benefit to you if the inspection revealed drive shaft boot is torn for example you would have to pay extra at main dealer prices to rectify it & I can only assume wear & tear items are not covered under the Lexus Relax scheme. Interesting to see what people buy into on the Sales front buy X package & we will look after your car for X number of years dissapointing to see main dealer network skimp on certain items.

How did it fail? Was it a leak or seized

When I come to do the water pump will do. Maybe a while before it gives me any issues though

They dont just go bang unless the water pump propellers seize up but rest assured it is unheard of on Lexus/Toyotas. Common to leak coolant past the seal evidence of pink or red coolant around the housing. Its a very small drip not anything to be worried about most drivers would not notice this as it is a slow process once it starts leaking you will have plenty of time to react either top it up & continue or get it replaced. For the engine to get unreversible/terminal damage one would be seriously arrogant because the temp reading will be climbing higher than usual or potentialiy steaming warning you to get it addressed if ignored expect blown head gasket worst case scenario or if your really unlucky you would turn into a bbq. (Just kidding) its nothing really to worry about.

Its a very easy DIY Job, I recently replaced the Stretch belt that drives the water pump at 50k as a preventative measure old one at 5 years old looked fine, I reckon 90k is the recommended mileage. I was pleased to see how accessible it is. The engine is mounted side ways being rear wheel drive. is literally a 1 hour job. Drain & refill the coolant car has to be in maintenance mode to bleed air out of the system & your ready to go. Hardest bit is getting the belt back on!

This guide may help without putting up a fight & the tool used I believe is Laser 8331 approx £18 delivered. If replacing the water pump or belt it would be a good investment, prying it with other tools has risk of further damage to the pulleys. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165713592944?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yvwl7HUSReq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=m3fnkB75QhS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Have any of you attempted a DIY? How is the belt removed looking to replace it soon.

Yours now at 251k (33k) a year very impressive Have you replaced any ABS sensors?

Try Autotrader, Pistonheads, Gumtree, Ebay, facebook market place. From experience Autotrader is best not as many time wasters.

If your car is around 5 years old its good practice to have it done. It gets rid of the small metal particles that settled in during the wear in process that usually happens within the 1st 5-10k miles. The drain plug is magnetic & it does grab tiny metal bits. Since the diff is sealed & the oil does not mix with petrol or go through a burn cycle it has a very easy life. I did mine at 50k /2015 reg to be fair the oil looked fresh, however the drain plug magnetic had black sludge. After changing it felt alot smoother. My recommendation on it is get it done once & then forget about it peace of mind more than anything else. Although looking on youtube owners of older Lexus models have left theirs for 10-15 years especially on the older GS models without any ill effects. Focus on the drain plug magnet

Start from the basics: -First check engine oil level & are you using 0w20 grade oil - Have you by any chance sprayed brake cleaner into the throttle body? Or drove through a deep puddle air filter may be soaked tell tale sign. (Have heard this noise before on a petrol engine after cleaning the throttle body but it went away within 30 seconds.) Could it be a bad batch of fuel, top it up with 5-10 litres of V power see if it dilutes the fuel to see if it makes a difference. *Has this noise started after undertaking any maintenance? If so try & trace it back to what work was done. If it is a fuelling issue injectors or spark plugs you would expect a misfire or engine code.

If its red fluid then yes its your transmission fluid. If its clear fluid its the Air con pipe releasing water from the condensation pipe it sits directly above the CTV transmission case. Its perfectly normal & put your mind at rest your driving a Lexus afterall

Clean the windows with shaving foam. Its a known trick that prevents windows misting up. Tried this & it does work quite well. + 1 for the change cabin filter easy to change out. Wet carpets dont help either.

Another time a rattle can occur more a knock to be honest. Worn drop links Broken coil spring

Re the rattle look for a loose exhaust heat sheild. Start from the manifold and get under the car & try moving it by hand there should be no play corrosion eats it away and causes movement. Iv had this issue on plenty of cars have ripped it off & continued my journey. Just dont park on grass if the heat sheild is missing risk of fire. If your real OCD it usually takes a biggeer washer to tighten back up. *** & dont touch the exhaust when its hot *** dont ask me how I know about this Failing that check any components in the engine bay i.e loose air filter box. Anything loose?

Direct from Lexus x4 Spark plugs £58.36 Part no: 90919-01263 https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-3-spark-plugs-2-5l-petrol-hybrid/ The recommended mileage is 60,000 for replacement.

Another option is to disable the sound beeper try disabling it not sure if its a techstream job or if it can be done manually like earlier lexus models look on youtube.

Try cleaning inside the belt holder mechanism compressed air or hoover.

They generally dont go wrong unless you buy one with high miles thats not been maintained. Your maintenance in theory is your warranty, but it is good insurance if you have the spare cash to take out a warranty. Its not your typical German models that require parts thrown at them frequently. Lexus owners sleep well at night

The brakes on Hybrids can go on for 100k+ if the disc and pads have life. Generally a strip down works to get rid of the squeaks clean the caliper, wire brush pad housing, regrease the caliper pins and your good to go. The brakes may not need replacing but the brake dust does you no favours they can seize up. Clean up and reassemble usually does the trick, this worked for me & it was the rear pads sticking.

For the life of the Hybrid battery go with 15 reg onwards. If you go for a 13 reg in 2023 its 10 year old, the main dealer Service only covers Hybrid battery upto to 10 year old providing you get it serviced from Lexus they extend the warranty for 1 year, something to think about although to be fair the failure rate is low. Certain people may disagree but with higher mileage examples comes wear & tear regardless of age. Maintenance record is critical & let me assure a full main dealer service record does not mean anything. Having been in the trade they can skimp on certain elements alot of the time it is a checkup the technicians undertake not doing actual preventative maintenance. The following items likely need replacing or require attention after >100k+, Hybrid filter clean, Oxygen sensors, corroded exhausts usually back box, lower control arms, drop links, tie rods, ball joints, shock absorbers, MAF/MAP sensors, coolant flush 100k, spark plugs 60k interval, differential fluid, CVT gearbox service, brake fluid 2 years, belts, water pump, etc & if your not handy at DIY this is where it gets expensive. There is no lifetime fluids for long term ownership buy around 60k and maintain it yourself if possible just my 2p on it.