IS300FSPORT

Try the 15amp power outlet no1

A decent diagnostic machine should be able to tell you if there is signal or pulse being sent to the sensor if not & its flat on the graph it means the cable needs rewiring. If your not confident with electrics don't tamper with it as you could potentially short something out causing more damage. Or look for an auto electrician to fault find or at least tell you what the issue is. If I had to make a guess it's the connector cables considering its been messed with before now. Where are you located?

Why is the battery stopping you from testing the connector sorry don't quite understand?

How are you sourcing these quotes? A quote from one company will not be the same for everybody there are way too many variables. Value of car, postcode , accident record, age, no claims bonus, claims & driving license points, period of ownership of the car, occupation, years driving experience, excess value, optional extras, i.e windscreen, key cover, legal cover, fully comp/third party the list goes on I usually get mine from moneysupermarket they are are a broker you just select what's required & go with the options that suits you. Don't think you'll get a firm answer on a forum for who is cheapest to insure. Key is to do research & compare quotes going what best suits you affordability wise.

It wouldn't usually need a fix if I had to guess the most probable cause is rodent damage. A camshaft sensor is not really a service item so can't see it being disturbed at 30k. If you replace the sensor & light stays on chances are the wiring has come apart, doesn't look particularly difficult to resolve either with a new plug or resolder

Got a quote from Lexus direct when I purchased the car it was double. Their selling point is we use genuine parts in the event of an accident I thought i will pass ridiculously expensive as it is.

I checked mine just now there is no heat shrink on the cables looks like a repair on yours. Strip the cable & check condition you may have a loose joint connection on the cable joint or the terminal plug. This may help.

In that case just get the brakes replaced & forget about it for another few years. You mention engine light has popped up? Have you had the codes read when you plug it in to ODB2 reader. Typically on Toyota/Lexus cars it's the Lambda sensor, MAF sensor, or a bad spark plug. Cam/crankshaft possibly but havent seen many reports on here. Interesting to see what it is as mines just shy of 58,000miles in 4 years no issues but expect the odd hiccup as it ages.

If they aren't making any noise, and the brake pedal feels fine. Leave them until you actually need to do them. A strip down clean up & regrease is all what may be needed to extend the life of your current brakes, if your good at DIY or know an honest mechanic try that first. You could always get the brakes inspected and make an informed decision based on the report minimum thickness on the disc & pad wear is a good indication. Sometimes the pad may look fine (meaty) on the alloy wheel side but the inside pad which you can't see without an inspection mirror/camera may be wearing quicker abnormal wear, this can happen if the caliper is sticking or the slider pins are seizing up. Were there any advisories for your brakes on the last MOT? Usually a decent garage will recommend having the pads done before they reach the minimum thickness, as it can cause the disc surface to become damaged if the pads are left late. With hybrid it's the opposite the pads wear slow, its the disc that suffers corrosion. Garages will upsell trying to sell you disc and pads obviously for business, Kwik ***** will give you a 'free brake inspection' but put the fear of God in you. You may run that little old lady over as soon as you leave the garage. If maintained by a main dealer you may want to check if the brake fluid has been changed as well as its good practice to have it done to prevent caliper seizing and brake line corroding inside out. Hope that helps, Im going to stop typing now as my train stop is coming.

See the invoice , this may help with part numbers. Look up the spec on their site using the part numbers. I went for the premium discs as they don't corrode as easily they are coated. Noticeable when we get rain or after a car wash the discs don't show rust as easily as the OEM. It was about 6 months ago so I'd be making it up if I had to confirm the size of the discs. Had no issues with the fitment, I'd say it's taken about 600-1000 miles to feel the bite & they are very effective. In all honesty I didn't need them doing the pads were like new but the discs were corroded. The hybrid regen takes away brake wear people have seen over 100k on the original brakes but the weather does no favours to the discs on low mileage cars used infrequently they just corrode making all sorts of funky noises. + I just wanted an excuse to upgrade, as there was an annoying squeal. The most important job of the brake job is clean up the hardware which is time consuming. Requires effort to decrease the hardware caliper sliders, clean the pad carrier & regrease. Most garages will just throw on a set of disc and pads and send you on your way. Keep your original brakes shims they are there for (anti-squeal) and transfer them over to your new pads. They cost a fair bit if you had to buy again from Lexus.

Iv fitted EBC Brake disc and Yellowstuff pads all around. I recommend them stronger brake feel & less brake dust. Similar price to OEM pads.

If its a 2017 you don't need the extended warranty. Providing its serviced by a main dealer they provide a standard 12 month warranty, upto the age of the car being 10 years old if I'm not mistaken. The high voltage Battery they cover upto 15 years if an annual hybrid health check is done. (Try searching on the forum) genuine service parts prolongs life of the car & reliability. It is worth it not only from a resale value but for more for peace of mind should anything go wrong (unlikely) it's covered, the most common items to need replacement are leaking water pumps, sticking brake calipers, Air con switch. These can add up when repair work is required. Read the terms & conditions as they don't cover wear and tear items like brake disc and pads, or the 12v battery. So your not dissapointed.

The easy option is to trickle charge the 12v battery assuming its in a locked up garage or alternatively disconnect the negative battery & lock the car manually (disconnecting the negative cable takes away the ability to lock the car with your remote) If your car is under warranty the main high voltage battery is covered so you shouldnt need to worry & I believe you should be good to go upon return, tip try to park it in a state of charge of 80% or more as many charge bars displaying as possible. So should it gradually drop voltage in them 4 months it won't deplete to the point it won't start. Iv looked into this before now & the main high voltage battery is robust not usually an issue as people have started up salvage cars after being sat for years in a scrapyard & they fire up with a good 12v battery. My biggest concern would be rodent damage finding a way in and getting comfortable chewing the cables. If you have a good friend, family or neighbour ask them if they will start it every 2weeks or so keep it active reducing chances of any rodents nesting.

Fantastic to read this ... i guess the question is did you walk away with a new air freshner & a tub of sweets? If not my local dealer Stockport takes the win

Nice move... Driving dynamics of the IS300H maybe better but I understand not the greatest when it comes to space. Did you check the insurance & are the GS Face-lift models prone to theft via the headlight? Of course don't have to answer on a public forum for obvious reasons but worth looking into so your not in for a surprise when you buy insurance.

Does the advanced spec not have an Auto button to fold the mirrors? You maybe better sourcing the mirror units from a breaker yard with built in motor (can't see it being cheap though) This is from the FSport.

Blackvue dashcams have a motion detection feature but that means continuous recording in a busy car park that's useless as it will record everything that moves even birds in the sky. (Sharing from experience) If the power source is your 12v Battery you will have a flat battery in a space of a day or 2 potentially leaving you stranded with a no start condition. Then you need a jump pack to get you going again. There is a feature built into modern dashcams to stop recording once the voltage drops below a certain range i.e. 12.1v but that defies the purpose as it will record motion that you don't need & when a bump happens it didn't record because to save your battery. The 12v battery is small / low capacity that's fitted to the IS300H & not designed for continuous recording. Many people have explored upgrading to a larger battery but it won't fit into the boot compartment. In fact there are heaps of posts about the 12v battery I'd safely say this is the IS300H acĥilles heel. The best option is to get an external battery back to power your dash cam. With the caveat its not a cheap option. https://blackvue.co.uk/product-category/batteries/

Usually it's just the exhaust Lambda sensor or possibly a bad MAF sensor. Bank 1 (Pre-catalytic converter) <-- usually the faulty one Bank 2 (Post-catalytic converter) rare to go faulty MAF Sensor found on the airbox remove it & see if its full of dust a clean may work but it's a fragile part have to be very careful. Spark plugs also a possibility as well as air filter (unlikely) Do you have an ODB2 diagnostic machine plug it in to read if there are any codes stored? A check engine light won't always light up right away. If there's no exhaust leak try bank 1 oxygen sensor if I was a betting man that would be the 1st part I'd replace followed by the MAF but they are not cheap unless you can source genuine from an eBay breaker. In the early 2000s owned a Honda Accord with a similar issue failed on emissions. A mechanic told me years ago to run a tank of Shell V Power & bring it in after a good hard drive to burn off any soot & as the exhaust is hot it will fly through emissions & surprisingly it worked. Although I acknowledge tech has improved since then so may not be as easy to get away with a good old Italian tune up

I can't comment on longevity J Henderson mentioned 6 years which is brilliant got your moneys worth if they last that long. On the 'bright' side (haha sorry) ... if you did purchase them & keep the working originals in the car as a spare or for a European trip or MOT etc they can be swapped out in less than 20 mins bothsides if you can be bothered. These are one of the easiest cars to change a bulb on without taking the front end off!

European certification mark. Although we are no longer part of EU I wouldn't allow them to certify/dictate what's legal. Genuinley don't intend to open up a debate as its not my area of expertise but just my view since it passed an MOT that's good enough for me https://www.tralert.com/en/lighting-terms/e-mark/

Yes I have had no trouble passing a recent MOT & no not been pull over by Police. Source https://www.hids4u.co.uk/d4s-osram-cool-blue-boost-xenarc-35w-6000k-xenon-hid-bulbs-pair.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqbTZRmHX0-QIHLdc5Qa7w9p_O-DpwuypsGOp-atdjogfJx1oKY

From the factory the standard light output is ridiculously poor. At least on the pre-face lift maybe the later versions are equipped with LED Lamps & have a better light output. Having done reaarch prior to purchase Osram or Phillips bulbs are about as good as you will get in terms of improving brightness without blinding other drivers. Yes accept there are plenty of cheap HID Bulbs online but the beam pattern is criminal. I guess you get what you pay for overall im happy with the light output & would recommend it if your looking to replace the OEM bulbs.

No problem. They are on a small discount at the min £97.99 & only 3 left in stock. BTW the originals I took out of mine were Osram not sure what spec they are or if they are a factory install? These are what I have in now OSRAM XENARC® Cool Blue Boost, D4S, Xenon Headlight Lamps, 7000K, Duo Box, offroad use only https://amzn.eu/d/c77iCqT

I recently tried Osram Night Breaker returned them & got a refund from Amazon. The Visibility was improved over OEM but for me the yellow light output wasnt for me. I prefer the more modern look white with a hint of blue light output so changed too Osram Cool blue boost. Note this bulb is rated as 'Off road' use only. I have had them in a couple of months now with no ill effects driven past many Police cars & nobody has flashed me unless I have them on full beam which is understandable. Beam pattern is set from factory so no issues with the auto headlight adjustment taking control. Osram night breaker (fitted & removed) Osram cool blue

It's certainly worth doing but the key is to get it done before the rust starts developing otherwise it's not effective. However I do recommend to get it done by a specialist people who day it day to day. As ideally certain components and plastic trims have to be removed to get into the sections that you can't usually reach. Purchased a car before now an old boy had it done by a garage & they just covered the entire under chassis including the brake pipes making it deceiving, come MOT time the tester would just put down as advisory "brake pipes covered in grease or other material" as you don't really know the true condition. I have an under carriage pressure washer & it seems to do a good job do it once a month from Jan-April, post winter removing the road salt is what causes it. Since owning mine over the last couple of years can't say i've seen the under chassis or brake pipes corroded. Wipe down the brake pipes still looking newish. Setup Example