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zeczec

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  • First Name
    Umar
  • Lexus Model
    gs450h GWS191R-BEXQHW
  • Year of Lexus
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London

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  1. Apologies, I attached the wrong images to the previous post - now correct
  2. Okay I've cleaned the area up and had a closer look, and I find that one of the tiny wires that forms part of the overall batch of wires (harness?) is cut. Pics attached! Very shocking. A long distant mechanic friend reckons it's definitely a rat/mouse job. Apparently that yellow padding stuff smells of cheese lol. Do you reckon it's just a simple case of re-joining those 2 cut yellow wires with some crimping tool etc and duct tape? Or should I get this done by an authorised electrician seeing as we're dealing with the hybrid system of a powerful car? Thoughts welcome.
  3. Okay I had a scour around the internet and there seems to be a lot of advice to check the harness cable to make sure rats haven't eaten it or something. But we don't have a rodent problem where we live, but I decided to lift up my bonnet and see what I can find, and I was alarmed to find that part of the interior 'roofing' has been violated - not sure how! And it happens to be right above the big orange electrical cables. I have attached the pics. So, the golden question is - could this be the culprit? Could a rupture in that black interior roofing lead to water ingress into the engine compartment - and if so, could that then cause a short circuit associated with the codes I'm getting? And if so yet, what would you advise? I've disconnected the 12V battery and pulled out the orange hybrid battery fuse. I appreciate your help and time!
  4. Good day folks! It me again, after a year's worth of fault-free driving, with an all-new problem with my GS450h 😏 I was about to leave for a wedding today and decided to take my car to the car wash first... but as I left my driveway, it moved off in electric mode, and then the engine fired up.... or at least it tried to! The 'crank' failed and it went straight back into pure electric mode, and the screen now read, check hybrid system error, check vsc, check ecb - the standard failed hybrid system stuff, along with check engine light on. I did an about turn and just about managed to bring it back into my driveway. I disconnected the 12V battery, and then pulled out the orange hybrid battery fuse, and left these disconnected for about 5 minutes to clear the codes, and then try again. The same thing happened again. So I plugged in my laptop with techstream, and it yields the following 2 codes: P0A4C-513 Generator Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0A4D-255 Generator Position Sensor Circuit Low Any ideas what this could be? I took a lot of screenshots of techstream and can share them. I appreciate your help and time.
  5. It's a good thread. I see some have removed their battery tray, and I may have to do the same as the battery I have is a bit too long to fit. Width is fine though. Unless I modify the tray.
  6. Good news. I've installed the replacement fuse and my car is fully back in working order, thank God. I've tidied up the battery compartment, but still more to do before I properly start driving this car again (need to modify my battery tray to fit this battery). This has been a good thread and I thank everyone for their contributions. And if that fuse blows again, I'll look to update you here 😌. But I think, it will be okay now. Lesson: properly secure battery with brackets and apply all supplied covers.
  7. Incidentally... Not the hazard lights. Hazard lights are sadly completely dead... Which seems like a safety issue.
  8. Here's my thinking on that. There's an offshoot cable that goes it's own separate way to it's own mini set of 3 fuses... I think the interior lights likely come from that. I've attached a picture of this. In any case, the main 150A fuse is due here tomorrow or day after so let's see... hmmm.
  9. Yes, it is as you described 🫢. My excuse is I'm a millennial 😅.
  10. I'm gonna go with this as the cause. Replacement fuse on its way. And I'm going to sort out the mess that is my battery compartment 😬. Half thinking to order an extra fuse in case that wasn't the cause and it happens again 😅
  11. It means rolling on the floor laughing 😁. I think the mechanic assumed I installed a battery with a higher than recommended Cold Crank Amperage.
  12. Hi Sami. This is probably best explained with the image attached to this post. There are 3 other fuses that are still connected separately, so I'm guessing that's where the power to the interior lights goes. Hello KayCee. This all happened while I was driving. The electrics were fine for 6 months up to this point. 6 months ago I changed the battery as the original reached end of life, and I saw a debate on this forum about different batteries that can be used as the original is quite dear. I learnt that any can be used as long as the specs match... but that the capacity (Ah) can exceed the original spec. The original spec being 70Ah, I found one at 100Ah and went for that. This one: https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx5335/ Now because the battery is physically larger, I've had to remove the battery tray and just leave it loose. I've been meaning to modify the tray to make it fit and then put the covers on, but not got round to it. And so that leads me to the picture I've attached (presently showing the terminals disconnected). The bracket is loose... plus I've got tools lying around. Do you reckon while driving, stuff moved around and came into contact with the terminals and caused a short circuit - could that be a possibility?
  13. Can't tell for sure, but my mechanic friend reckons it's most likely the non-standard 12V battery. It must have sent out power too intensely.
  14. Found the culprit. The main 150A fuse is blown (see pic). I asked my mechanic friend about it, and I confessed to him.... the 12V battery is a generic battery. There was some discussion on a thread on this forum about what 12V batteries we can use as the OEM battery costs around £300. I can now say that it is £300 for a reason. A 12V battery on a hybrid is unlike a 12V battery on any other car, even if the specs match. So now I have to secure a new fuse, get a proper battery (£300 sadly), and sell this battery which is barely 6 months old and has a 5 year warranty.
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