Brian R

The fellow I use is Tony Angel aka "dentAngel" Phone number is 07788666102 Location Horley, Surrey. Just a thought, I know he has regular business with various folk and you might be able to suggest a mutually convenient meeting point rather than travelling to Horley. Worth putting to Tony and see if that works for both of you. I'll also be seeing my son later this morning and I believe he too uses someone and I think he is very happy with them. I'll ask and advise.

I've cheerfully used a PDR (paintless dent repair) fellow for some years now. In regards whether this might affect any warranty then the clue is in the description i.e. paintless. Assuming a pdr is possible, then there should be absolutely no evidence any such repair was ever made. I'm near Gatwick and the fellow I use whilst not cheap always does a superb job. With the best will in the world you will pick up the odd dent and pdr offers the real prospect of an invisible repair for a fraction of a body shop alternative. A Google search will reveal any number of repairers, but look carefully at their respective reviews. Would happily suggest the fellow I use, but I doubt he would need to work beyond a 10-mile radius of Gatwick.

Don't want to worry you Len, but I've got a DA in the garage. I didn't buy it, but my son seems to have gifted it to me. Perhaps there's some ulterior motive going on here and he's morphing me into a "detailer" a bit at a time!

Must admit Len, I would be in the snow foam first camp all day long. I learnt all I know from my son who is something of a perfectionist when it comes to cleaning cars. I'll also confess he walked away with the Karcher when he left home and frankly I couldn't be faffed to replace it! So I am now a 2 bucket man (with grit guard don't you know) and copious amounts of unmetered water. I've convinced myself I'm protecting an investment, and strangely that engenders significant enthusiasm in my cleaning quest(s). Actually, thinking about it, I would enjoy it regardless!

Alternatively, use the one on the Lexus web site. I did, and it is the only one that A. works and B. produced the right spec. Should hasten to add this was for my Lexus and I suspect it might not work on other brands.

Had mine serviced on Wednesday just gone and as I always do, I checked the oil on the stick and for quite a few moments I honestly believed it hadn't been filled up! It does seem to me that Toyota/Lexus oil is particularly clear, with no discernable colour to it. I'd also say it's good to be driving petrol again given I have had diesels for the last 16 years (albeit not exclusively) and their oil turned black within minutes of it being changed! That's not to say there was anything amiss, but just that in my experience it is a characteristic of diesels and doesn't help you gauge the condition of the oil.

Hello Joel Having a "Sonic Titanium" paint on mine I'll be most interested in how you get along. I know one day in the future mine will almost certainly need some paint repair and it will be useful to have a benchmark. Normally I use a body shop that has never been phased by exotic colours and even the wonderful Mazda red which I believe is a similar paint process to the titanium. I will however say they know how to charge but when you see the effort they put in then you shouldn't too surprised.

Something of a conundrum this one. On a previous car, a BMW Z4, with run flats, the ride was uncomfortable and with terrible tram lining. The handling was frankly scary and very unpredictable. On the Z forum, the fitted Bridgestones were known as "ditch finders". Within weeks of ownership I changed to normal tyres which transformed the car. All run flat negatives now replaced with superb handling and crucially no tram lining. I will however concede the LC run flats are far superior to the experiences I had with the Z especially given they too are Bridgstones! However, in the wet I can readily detect tram lining on the LC and I will seriously consider putting normal tyres on it when the time comes. I'll do what I did with the Z and carry a can of Holts Tyreweld along with a small compressor, neither of which take up any real space. This nowadays is of course considered the norm by many manufacturers. Curiously, in all the years I have owned cars and miles driven, I struggle to remember how many punctures I had to contend with. I would think maybe 3 or 4 at the most, and I'll be the first to suggest I may have been lucky in this regard. Furthermore, I can well understand why some would be reluctant to ditch their run flats and the inconvenience a puncture in a normal tyre could cause. If you do go down the normal tyre route, the perceived wisdom is that one should notify your insurance company if you make this change. Usually this has no impact on your premium, but nonetheless it needs to be advised.

Looking at the quality of play we have seen from England, then I honestly believe they will prevail against Denmark. Importantly, the players in this team want to win, whereas too many times in the past the England teams should have been sat with the spectators!

Good man!

Completely agree with you and good to see England making the most of their talent and the obvious respect they have for Southgate and his management. Perhaps too soon to dream but who knows........

Feel for you Richard and I know how annoying this must be. I have to say when I saw the damage I could see that our local and highly regarded wheel repairer would instantly quote £100 all in and make a faultless repair. I would also add the pain is likely to lessen as the days go by so if you can take your time getting it sorted. BTW, our wheel people are in Crawley so probably too far for you to contemplate but just in case, here are their details: Wheel Works I've used them on numerous occasions and the quality of their work is brilliant!

As part of my intention to get familiar with the brand I've been watching the turn round times on these cars, and it seems to me that in recent weeks there has indeed been significant selling activity. Perhaps even along with something of a price hike on a like for like historic basis. If I remember, there is currently one at a few pounds shy of £50K whilst others seem to provide an entry point (before negotiation) at around £52/£53K. Given the state of the second hand car market right now then I'm not surprised, and again sports cars tend to do well in the summer months and the psychological £50K barrier is now broken regularly.

I think we can safely agree the numbers are most definitely low, as one would expect. I would also concur with your "optimistic" dealer observation. Frankly, I wish there were more out and about, but I guess at the end of the day it's something of a niche product.

Just did another quick check and if I am interpreting the data correctly, it would seem approx 255 have been registered. To be honest I am not too sure where one would acquire definitive figures. It also seems there is but a handful that are SORN'd which might suggest not many are being tucked away.

Had to look it up and yes, never seen one of those in the wild either! Good looking car as well. 💓

I believe the only one I have seen on the road was within spitting distance of my local dealer, Lexus Gatwick. Having said that, I think they may have recently sold two in recent days, a red and a white model, or just possibly shunted them to other branches. If they are local, then I guess I will see them sometime soon, but hitherto I've yet to see one out in the wild. Assuming I have interpreted the figures correctly, then it does seem there are less than 200 nationwide. Obviously an extremely rare car!

You might be surprised by the scrap price for cars. Try this link and see what yours might worth: Redcorn

Absolutely the right stuff to use and apologies if I am repeating what might already have been said, but you should not use "normal" grease on any rubber component. Essentially, normal grease will degrade rubber and is totally incompatible. Red rubber grease is designed to be compatible and is readily sold by the usual culprits or easily sourced on say Amazon. As for using copper grease elsewhere on brake components or disc/wheel mating, then simply do not do this! You should use a grease like Cera Tec which is specifically for metal on metal contact parts and is particularly suited to the high temperatures around brake disc areas. Conventional greases will rapidly go walkies as heat is produced by braking.

Would be great if it could be retrospectively fitted, albeit I think I must have some Japanese genes given I'm already reasonably adept with the pad.

Many thanks Wendle, I'll take a look see tomorrow morning. I also notice on the American forum, some folk are piggy backing their reverse mirror wiring. My concern here is that my camera needs a 5 volt (micro usb) power supply and whilst they can be very small I don't think small enough to contemplate connecting to the mirror.

Gents, I would be most interested in knowing more and in particular the power pick up points that your cameras were/are wired to. I always put a camera in my cars and my current is a ROAV unit. It simply needs a switched supply on/off with the ignition. In my previous car it was connected by a USB cable to a power socket but I fear that is not a practical solution in the LC.

I've only had my LC for some 11 days and have already experienced this problem. Took at look at matters and solved the problem by filing a slight chamfer on the female part of the lock/unlock mechanism of the fuel cover. I used a fairly small flat Swiss file and hey presto problem solved.

Many thanks for that. Must admit I hadn't noticed that in the "Setup" menu but will take a look see later today.

Just bought two Faraday pouches by Defender and very happy to report they work! Additionally, I also use the hold lock, press unlock twice in built facility to switch off the key broadcast. Perhaps a belt and braces approach and over the top but the crims always seem to be one step ahead of the game. I also tried the biscuit tin method, and it would appear providing the key is not in direct contact, that too works. In other words, if the tin is lined with say cardboard, it forms a very effective "pouch". The Defender pouches are suitable for one key/fob only whereas of course the tin method can hold considerably more. Out of interest, does anyone know if the keyless entry system can be switched off in its entirety? I was able to do this with my Jag and grateful for the facility, would be nice if I could do the same with the Lexus.