AntC

I change it every summer and can confirm that it's clean. It's also the same smell regardless of the filter brand that I use. The only thing they have in common is that they are acting charcoal filters. Though I would like to note that I'm not complaining 😁 The smell is pleasant,so I was just wondering.

Hey everyone, haven't posted in a while and this time it's not about issues. It's about this AC button in the car (attached). I understand that it changes air circulation to inside only, changes vents to top vents only, and engages the cabin filter. Ever since I got the car which was almost 3 years ago, pressing this button gives off a sweet-ish pleasant smell. I thought of a freon leak, but I have the AC on all the time and this only occurs when this button is pressed. I'm wondering, is this something factory? Does anyone else have this? I would like to note that I haven't sprayed any perfume or deodorant in the vents and I'm getting just any regular cabin filter with active charcoal, nothing special. Cheers!

If the battery was taken out during AC compressor replacement, this would have reset all of your settings. As for the screen, it is possible that it's a faulty digitizer or a flat cable connection. You can take out the center console abd open it to see if all cables are properly connected. A digitizer you can buy off eBay. The console is really not hard to open up, you just need to gently take it out of the car so as to not damage your dash. Preferably after the dash has stayed in garage temperature and not in the sun since it makes it more brittle. I also posted a thread a while ago where I also have photos of how to open the console. You can search my profile, I think it's like my first thread on here. As for turning off the AC, if voice commands still work, you can say "climate off". Press the climate button before doing so. And you may have to say it a few times since it's an old system.

Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll try using 0w40 instead and see whether it will have any effect. Otherwise, I'll keep searching for information since I doubt any garage other than a Lexus/Toyota dealership will want to diagnose a VVTi issue.

I guess the oil being thinner when warn makes sense as it would leak back down faster. The reason I did consider using thinner oil is with the idea, that thinner oil would flow more quickly during crank and would go to the necessary place to prevent the rattle. However, I am 100% certain that the rattling sound is the exact same as the one on cols start. Will try making a video and post it here. If I do use thicker oil, wouldn't this make the car more prone to the cold start rattle issue though? I would also like to note that this happens only after the engine has reached or almost reached operating temperature. For example, if I drive for 10 minutes and the engine hasn't warmed up yet, there will be no rattle on the next start. What would be the thickest oil that you can suggest using?

Per the other thread, none of the suggestions resolved my rattle, unfortunately. Frequentl oil changes at 5k miles, engine flush, Wynn's hydraulic valve lifter, topping up oil when necessary. Tested oil control solenoids, cleaned VVTi filters. However, mine only happens when the engine is warm, 20-30 minutes after driving, never on a cold start. There was only one instance, right after an oil change, where there was no rattle for about a month, then it came back. My next plan is using 0w20 oil to see if it makes a difference. I have seen mentions of a pre-lube system on the US forums, which involves a small oil tank that serves the purpose of keeping oil pressure up after the engine is turned off. In theory, this should eliminate the rattle entirely since there will be no need to build up oil pressure during crank. However, I have no idea what the cost of this could be, as well as whether it is doable on the IS250, considering the available space under the bonnet. The thing I'm wondering the most about is the cold vs warm start. If the issue is the oil being drained out, shouldn't it be present on both warm and cold starts?

I may give 0w20 a try on my next oil change. Also, I too sometimes park the car nose down, however, the rattle happens on even surfaces as well. I guess parking it nose up may force the oil into place and reduce the rattle.

So I've been driving with the oil additive for a couple of days now and still no effect. To my understanding, the hydraulic valve lifter does require some mileage to work. It's already in the engine oil anyway, so it's gonna stay there until the next oil change. What I find most puzzling about this is that the rattle was not present when I got the car. It either developed when I bought it, or the previous owner was doing something different. So far, I've been using 5w30 oil only. Would it be worth a shot to use thinner oil? The idea being that thinner oil will flow through oil channels more easily and allow oil pressure to build up during the initial crank. Thus, by the time the engine starts, oil pressure would have locked the VVTi mechanism...in theory. Any suggestions on what oil viscosity I should try? The temperatures here can range from -10C in winter to 37-38C in the summer. Cheers

I've bought several aftermarket cabin filters and all if them have been the same size as OEM. Since buying an original one involves waiting about a week for shipping, I just buy the most expensive one with activated charcoal. Think something like 15£.

Thanks for the info. I guess it's going to arrive tomorrow and I'll post an update in a week or so on whether it has had any effect.

Another update. I went to the garage to have my front anti roll bar bushings replaced and had the guys check the VVTi filters. Both of them were clean but they cleaned them up anyway. Seems this is a result of the engine flush, since the oil still looks brand new a couple of thousand km later. Rattle is still there, however. I just ordered a can of Wynn's hydraulic valve lifter to see if it will make a difference. Does anyone know if it's ok to pour an additional 300ml of liquid, considering that the engine oil level is currently at max? Or should I wait for the car to burn some oil and add it then?

Keep in mind that most battery brands are simply rebranded as there are not that many manufacturers. For example, Bosch is a rebranded Varta battery. So you can save some money this way since any new battery will come with a warranty and will last you at least a few years. The most important part is to get a battery with the amps suited for your vehicle or more. The Bosch battery that I bought the car with died last year and I got a new one that runs without any issues. Bosch was 60 amps, new one us 75.

I have the same issue, you can clearly hear the squeak when bouncing the car up and down. Just went to the garage and they confirmed its the bushes on the anti roll bar. Will be changing them next week.

I changed my stock halogens with aftermarket HIDs and high beam with LEDs l. The difference is night and day. However, I'm not from the UK so I can't confirm whether doing so is legal there. Low beams are H11 and high beams are HB3.

An update. I checked the oil level a few times and its at max. After the flush the oil is so clear you can put it on your salad. But rattle is still there unfortunately. The only thing I can think of is cleaning the vvti filters. Will post another update when I get the chance to do so. Will appreciate any ideas in the meantime.