S.H.

Yes, and sometimes referred as wool wax. https://www.fluid-film.com/ FLUID FILM® is Eureka’s own unique lanolin-based brand of corrosion preventive and lubricant, used Worldwide in a multitude of industries and applications. I did test the thicker type but that did not work for me it was to thick (did not bond well) or is for warmer climate, close to a bread butter in viscosity. And ohh yes it is messy but it is the only fluid that I trust to penetrate through almost anything ... it is an oil base... in that way that it mixes with Bitumen (some underbody coatings include a small % of Lanolin to make it less brittle when fully hardened), see SDS papers. If a thinner version is wanted, start by mixing a small amount of vegetable oil to the product until the desired consistency is reached. (I have not tested this, I just warm up my can more if needed). P.S. your fuel tank I would cover it with Fluid Film even if you want to use other methods for the rest of your car. Your car is so badly surface rusted that I would always start with Fluid Film, I use HQ borescope in closed chambers if I really want to see what I am doing, but that is me.

Dynax UB is (Forms a touch-dry, brown, wax-like film that does not peel or flake off like traditional bitumen underseals) and Hydrate 80 is (Converts rust into a stable, protective metal complex) For me this formula is for light surface rust, Hydrate 80 is just a rust converter.. (they all work similar). In all instances I use Fluid Film FROM A PRESSURE CAN, reason the pressurized air blow off dirt/rust, after each round more rust will flake off. Some use Fluid Film in sills and cavities but a thicker fluid like the wool wax (or similar) on open air places. Look at RepairGeek then you see exactly what I am talking about. Like on my 2008 Getz winter salt bucket you can see on some panel connections it seeps through after few weeks after I wash the car where thicker Lanolin types do not. I have used few types of rust converters but I only use it on the body and prime or just paint over it. Waxing or + nano coat does breath in the end and I need to re rust convert that spot (if not painted). I am 63 and 90% of my cars have rusted down to Fred Flintston style ...... but I could always drive them. When I got the Getz about 8 years ago I told my self now I will learn this finally and buy the right tools for it and every year before inspection I Fluid Film the underbody and say to my self Ill give him 3 years.... He will not go to the scrapyard cos of rust no when the Catalytic converter and the turbo rust out I will need to make a decision... My guess is I would fix it... time will tell... kind regards

Repair Geek Coated vs Uncoated After 7 Years: The ULTIMATE PROOF Lanolin Undercoating Works!

If you want to save this car, then DO NOT WASH IT and use Fluid Film with a pressure gun and let the air pressure take out the loose dirt and surface rust. First round will disappear after few days then put another round and more rust will go, minimum 2 carefully non saving and lot of elbow greasy time and effort and you will be rewarded. this is what I use on my winter salt bucket (Getz) except do not use the Bitumen like in the picture (that is for new paint)

Youtube Repair Geek https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqbnNNZRF-c&list=PLdZ4W-5tDUwHDA_F2VZWOEpJcZ81BEu4B&index=5 all about rust coating, only facts. I use this myself on surface rusted cars. Go through his videos before anything else, that could save you frustrating outcomes. Good luck.

I took off all my smart mods also. I got sick when washing the car then it was always lock unlock..... + it is also a theft security coz the car is not always scanning for signal. P.S. I use smart charger and connected a plug from the battery to the floor with fuse and the cable of the C-tek is so thin that I can close the trunk without harming the seal, but then I got a garage. P.S. READ THE MANUAL and then you know how the system works unfortunately Toyota/Lexus have not yet grown up... some manufacturers have a system that when the small battery gets low it got a small charge from the hybrid battery.

more on this I am on IS 300H it also depends on the battery heat.. if it is cold charge and recharge is slower. If you are like me that my wife takes here time when shopping....... (if it is grocery I go also) then use your seat heater (that takes energy from the big battery) and reduse the heater temp or turn it off then if I got 3 bars then engine turns off like when buyn through a window (unhealthy food....). when the car is stationary the engine temp is what rules.. regarding the heater.

It took me about a year to gather the parts and for comparison I used this auction number to compare with my car, USA VIN NUMBER AUCTION VVIN NUMBER JTHHP5BC7H5006443 and the best Lexus conversion brake info I found + the bracket for the rear caliper was 350phi. com except I did go for Powerstop Z23 brake pads (hybrid pads wider temp and no dust). There is one exemption and that is both rotor hub dia are 62mm BUT wheel hub dia is 60,1mm on my 300H. Bought the wheels from fitmentindustries (USA). You need to measure your wheel hub dia before ordering the wheels. There went alot of time finding the correct wheels cos US sides usually do not have EU models in there programs as was in my case. I went for Konig Ampliform Wheels, front wheels no problem but my calculations for the rear was different from theres cos I wanted no scrub/rub formula but they told me my rear wheels would not fit my calipers... I do not know how they got that simply cos the rotor slot in the caliper is tight ... but my choise was correct and the rear tire extends only about 5mm from the original but front extended about 29mm. See the Pic of the wheels the part numbers I got. The rear tires could be wider but I could not get them in my tire line (wanted 265-275mm) but the front tires have a slight touch under turns and touch the inner (what do you call it.. inner fender well) both in front and rear of the wheel, the material is soft but I could not bend it to stay in the right form... (paper.. fiber something) when it rubs through after about 7k km.. I will take them out and form them permanently, 4x Michelin 19" R 255/35PA4 P.S. these winter tires have only 8mm depth instead of the std 10mm for snow tires. I bought the Brembo rotors from a Brembo dealer in my country and the calipers from US 250-350$ a piece + taxes. Work per wheel about 4 hours (cutting the dust cover..) Changes from the original setup.. used less than 2k km and temp +1c - +12c, understeer almost gone (expected, wider front tires) the brake feeling is super + even surface rust after a rain no problem. The G picture (under speed limits) max 0.8g is probably close to the max I can get out of these tires but as long the road is close to dry, temp does not matter ether in turns or under braking yes I could get these numbers under the old setup (same tire type) but not constantly. On the OEM setup under hard braking I did want a stiffer lower arm bushing but not on the new setup.. it looks like fr/rear brake bias is just a little more to the rear... just tiny but I can not feel it except better steering control under hard braking. What next.. hmm the car is 12mm higher now (more practical..). I want to stiffen the chassy with TRD parts but other than that (yes I want a HUD did try one, not happy with it) I think the car is perfect for my needs as it is now. In my climate using 2 sets of tires is just not practical. The rest will be cosmetics.. P.S. why manufacturers use only dualside calipers on high end cars is cos of practicality, cost and no need for special wheels for the big calipers + few other minor benefits of narrow calipers.

I have used them for about 1500km but the wheels and tires 3k km. In short this is how the car should have been made but it comes with a price tag.. Hybrid feels flawless in transition and on 4x Michelin 19" R 255/35PA4 I can lock at any speed but in a controlled manner. They are always cold and rust cleans quickly (groves in rotors). I could barely get heat in the rotors when I broke in the pads (Temp +6c) but calipers not even warm. Are they overkill yes but they never give me a surprise.

The OEM were always a little picky for my taste and faded 2 times so a decision was made after a one heck of a brainstorming... here are some pic but I will update the details when I got more time Pros and Cons etc and what to not do in this swap.

On YouTube is a good youtuber a workshop guy (only Toyota and Lexus) who did work for dealers, an honest man and at times talks about how workshops cut corners to make more profit. The Car care nut

This is 100% straight forward, change is a change, check is a check, there are no options here. Lexus Japan knows what they are doing. Those who say diff oil change is not needed do not have all the facts... I got LSD diff and I am regular driving close to 0.8G., does the serviceman know that, NO so a change is a change and the F-Sport variants got a tighter maintenance schedule for the simple reason Lexus assumes that if you buy a F-Sport you are probably a driving man like me......

I can ad to this, last month my Lexus was called in for service check but there were about 1500km left to oil change (they did not have a plan for that) I change at 5000km no matter what and in a bad winter when I use this car only for dry weather and short trips then I get more fuel to the oil than I want to and then 3500km is my changing time. So before every service check I call what is in it and I ad in what I want done in the process. The Lexus computer algo does not take into account what is getting close todo.. I am an old out of date mechanic+++ and oils are holy things for me but I got into a trouble with the main (arguing with three mechanics in front of me and in the end the quiet one told them .. guys.. he only wants the correct oil..) dealer here in my country they used 5W-30 oil instead of the 0W-20 oil that is recommended for my climate in the manual and I got into argument that I wanted the correct oil and if the change did not come from Lexus Japan I would ignore it but they told me this change came from the Lexus Europe and I told them that I did not give a F**** about that coz in the manual stands black in white Quote (SAE 0W-20 is filled into your Lexus vehicle at manufacturing, and the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If SAE 0W-20 oil is not available, SAE 5W-30 oil may be used. How ever, it should be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change). There is another reason for this thin oil, and that is piston ring sot and the tight VVT manufacturing clearance. So I always need to mention that I want the CORRECT oil at the service intervals. + the Hybrid is a stop/start engine and that puts extra demands from the oil quality. Kind regards.

I live by the sea here in Iceland 200meters to the face of the Atlantic and salty roads on wintertime. The thing usually is salt by the wind (stormy) goes on the paint/body but road salt underbody and sills. After all my 63 years and usually drive my cars to the Fred Flintston Style shape... then I am rinsing my cars with water just straight after a windy day or a trip to the capital + my Lexy is pearl white and if I do it (just with a garden hose) the small dirt does not stick to the waxing so it looks longer shiny and now I am fixing 3/4" hose to the yard for that purpose only and the 1/2" for the pressure washer and foam can, yes the naighbours give me a look but my beauty is always 98% clean. SMILE My wife got this little Sony camera (old but good) and with that I do not have to put the car on the lift to see what is going down there under... look at my Lexus pictures all feet on the ground. You should tackle your rust seriously and enjoy the car longer + resale value is the bonus, good luck, Kind regards.

I got 2017" and they fixed it in one of my service check last year butt... there is more to the story coz when I went through mine I did see 2 recalls on some EU page but Lexus denied the other one.