S.H.

I have used them for about 1500km but the wheels and tires 3k km. In short this is how the car should have been made but it comes with a price tag.. Hybrid feels flawless in transition and on 4x Michelin 19" R 255/35PA4 I can lock at any speed but in a controlled manner. They are always cold and rust cleans quickly (groves in rotors). I could barely get heat in the rotors when I broke in the pads (Temp +6c) but calipers not even warm. Are they overkill yes but they never give me a surprise.

The OEM were always a little picky for my taste and faded 2 times so a decision was made after a one heck of a brainstorming... here are some pic but I will update the details when I got more time Pros and Cons etc and what to not do in this swap.

On YouTube is a good youtuber a workshop guy (only Toyota and Lexus) who did work for dealers, an honest man and at times talks about how workshops cut corners to make more profit. The Car care nut

This is 100% straight forward, change is a change, check is a check, there are no options here. Lexus Japan knows what they are doing. Those who say diff oil change is not needed do not have all the facts... I got LSD diff and I am regular driving close to 0.8G., does the serviceman know that, NO so a change is a change and the F-Sport variants got a tighter maintenance schedule for the simple reason Lexus assumes that if you buy a F-Sport you are probably a driving man like me......

I can ad to this, last month my Lexus was called in for service check but there were about 1500km left to oil change (they did not have a plan for that) I change at 5000km no matter what and in a bad winter when I use this car only for dry weather and short trips then I get more fuel to the oil than I want to and then 3500km is my changing time. So before every service check I call what is in it and I ad in what I want done in the process. The Lexus computer algo does not take into account what is getting close todo.. I am an old out of date mechanic+++ and oils are holy things for me but I got into a trouble with the main (arguing with three mechanics in front of me and in the end the quiet one told them .. guys.. he only wants the correct oil..) dealer here in my country they used 5W-30 oil instead of the 0W-20 oil that is recommended for my climate in the manual and I got into argument that I wanted the correct oil and if the change did not come from Lexus Japan I would ignore it but they told me this change came from the Lexus Europe and I told them that I did not give a F**** about that coz in the manual stands black in white Quote (SAE 0W-20 is filled into your Lexus vehicle at manufacturing, and the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If SAE 0W-20 oil is not available, SAE 5W-30 oil may be used. How ever, it should be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change). There is another reason for this thin oil, and that is piston ring sot and the tight VVT manufacturing clearance. So I always need to mention that I want the CORRECT oil at the service intervals. + the Hybrid is a stop/start engine and that puts extra demands from the oil quality. Kind regards.

I live by the sea here in Iceland 200meters to the face of the Atlantic and salty roads on wintertime. The thing usually is salt by the wind (stormy) goes on the paint/body but road salt underbody and sills. After all my 63 years and usually drive my cars to the Fred Flintston Style shape... then I am rinsing my cars with water just straight after a windy day or a trip to the capital + my Lexy is pearl white and if I do it (just with a garden hose) the small dirt does not stick to the waxing so it looks longer shiny and now I am fixing 3/4" hose to the yard for that purpose only and the 1/2" for the pressure washer and foam can, yes the naighbours give me a look but my beauty is always 98% clean. SMILE My wife got this little Sony camera (old but good) and with that I do not have to put the car on the lift to see what is going down there under... look at my Lexus pictures all feet on the ground. You should tackle your rust seriously and enjoy the car longer + resale value is the bonus, good luck, Kind regards.

I got 2017" and they fixed it in one of my service check last year butt... there is more to the story coz when I went through mine I did see 2 recalls on some EU page but Lexus denied the other one.

Thx for the link, I did read it and my old age went down the memory lane, hahaha and one car sits in my mind (my only British one) Triumph GT MK3 1971" one cute rust bucket, but I could get all the body parts and if I remember the floor was in four pieces. I did own that one for 16 years.

2017" Lexus IS300H F-Sport. Standard Lexus Iceland underbody coating. Total 42k km, 2000km since last rustproofing. Rustproofing Nr 3 (as by the book to hold the warranty here in Iceland).

This is what I use on surface rusted cars. P.S. the Bitumen is from Motip and sold at the Toyota/Lexus dealer and surprisingly cheap. Presto is the rust converter.

guys I would be glad to hear from you if you found rustproofing formula/method/material that does work for you coz there are so many new products on the market now that make sense but they do not all work as advertised....... kind regards.

I could not open the Lanoguard web page but I took a look at it on youtube and I see pros and cons.. Pros no air compressor needed and easy to apply, cons the car needs a steam wash but if you got a pressure can to flush out the closed spaces with the Lanoguard like the frame, yes it is thin but I see no reason it would not do the job but to get into the closed spaces you need a pressure can. I have not seen this around me but I will keep my eyes open. Regarding rust I am always testing something. Thx

I did test Hammerite but did not get it to work properly. I spray my brakelines with Fluid film last 6 years.. and no change same is with the brake hose to brake line. Hammerite gets hard so when that gets old it gets brittle. I use my Fluid film pressure can to clean loose dirt/old bitumen. This is my salty transportation (Getz 2008) after cleaning and before coating, as can bee seen the original 16 year old rustproofing is started to flake off but the rust is only surface. About your 5 years.. I have told my self for many years I give the car 3 years and after each yearly rustproofing.. I still say the same hahaha

Here in Iceland it is a dealer option for all the car brands and leave it to the customer if they want it extra except Toyota/Lexus there it is in the price but only the underbody. I also expect that it is up to the dealer in each country if it is needed or not.... There was a time over about 4 years that manufacturers denied the warranty if it got extra rustproofing. But they got that back like a Boomerang.

I have used 2 types of rust converters over last 6 years but both of them do breath in the end (on body) and I needed to redo or give it an extra once a year, not a problem but that is why I give it a primer (primers do also breath but I gave it a try, does it delay the breathing of the converter....) Just keep an eye on it.