McShmoopy

Cheers for the suggestion Trend, apparently this isn’t always necessary as the Television Camera ECU supplies the 6V for the reverse camera so assuming you could find the wire it’s just a case of tapping into it as normal. in any case I’ve decided to not bother with the stock camera due to its fairly poor quality, I’ve actually opted to fit a 360 camera system as my new head unit supports it. Watch this space!

I had the same thing happen to my mums IS250C, will need to take it to an exhaust specialist to get it welded back on. She did complain that the car felt a little sluggish but that could be a result of the exhaust coming off so try to get yours fixed when possible!

I’m knee deep into the apple ecosystem so I’ve got one of those MagSafe chargers. This is my second one from Anker and the only reason I got this was the cable is integrated into the assembly and goes all the way to the back (it’s not even 15W so what a rip!) I’ll be figuring out a way discretely run the cable through the dashboard at some point (perhaps by lifting the centre speaker plastic grill)

I would say based on what I've seen on the forum and generally from people I know is unless you're getting the car for absolute pennies or you intend to do alot of miles you're better off with an IS250. Ignoring the reliability issues, the economy is pretty bad in comparison to the petrol which is only slightly worse, consider the cost of Diesel at this point in time and the incredibly clunky gearbox, sixth gear is pretty useless unless you're doing around 80 but I have heard the sport versions have a slightly better gearbox. I have a 143k IS250 and for the most part drives as if she were brand new and while I am heavy footed I'm able to get 28 to 32 with sensible driving in town and achieve around 43mpg doing 70mph on the motorway with cruise control on. If you are dead set on the 220D or the 200D, I heard doing either an EGR or DPF delete as well as remapping the engine can help with addressing all the aforementioned concerns. Hopefully we've convinced you to steer clear of the 250 but failing that just have some money aside for repairs / maintenance!

I'm flexible with most weekends, whatever is convenient for everyone!

I've been in touch with them but they did tell me from the get go the standard OEM camera isnt compatible out of the box. That being said I did speak to my local dealer and they advised me I can check out the Lexus Tech site and get my diagrams for a small fee for the hour. I havent had time recently but will attempt this on the weekend. I did also order a 360 camera system from Ali Express so do watch this space as that will be a good alternative to the OEM camera. In terms of fit, its actually spot on and looks close to stock, almost reminiscent of the new NX450h+'s infotainment. This is probably because my car is a facelift and these style of android unit fascias are better suited to the newer air vent shape and the way the clips for it are. If you had a pre facelift the air vent leaves a horrible gap at the top and the android unit doesnt quite fit into the below stereo / radio part without grinding off some of the clips. The only gripe I have with this is that the colours dont match quite the same but I suspect its down to my original plastics fading, and the bottom section of the radio no longer illuminates but I've tried to match the green close to the stock LEDs.

Im based in the East Midlands but I'd certainly be down for a meet up!

Well I didn’t think so at first so I took a look where the connector I need to tap into is (connected to a television camera controller ECU) but when I tried to locate the television camera controller I wasn’t able to find it for my vehicle. That then led me to believe the wiring could be different but I’ve not been able to confirm my suspicions and I’d rather be sure which wires I’m tapping before going about this.

Hi Guys I've recently gotten an XTRONS head unit for my IS250 and while it does work wonderfully, one thing that wasn't supported out of the box was the reverse camera. This has something to do with the fact that our IS250s operate the camera on 6V and if we plugged it straight into the RCA output it would probably fry it as that runs on an elevated 12V. I have been made aware that we can get it working but to do that require us to tap two wires and wire it to an RCA cable and depending on your specific car you may need to convert the signal to 6V. Only problem is that I have no clue which wires to tap. On 06 to 09 vehicles this is very well documented on the US Club Lexus forum by one of the members. Only trouble I'm having is that there are not many wiring diagrams for a facelift IS (09 onwards) and the ones I have seen I can't spot the television camera controller or the camera being wired into the head unit. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-3rd-gen-2006-2011/885999-tesla-style-headunit-with-oem-camera.html If anyone wouldn't mind pointing me in the right direction for these (even if its a paid option) it would be greatly appreciated. As much as I have gotten used to parking my car without it, it would be nice to have it working and if I can't I have been eyeing up a 360 Reverse Camera system!

Some velcro could be a good option too, I've only had to remove this for running some cables for a replacement head unit / dash cam and accessing some ECUS and cables so for most people you dont need to access this often.

Oh it did clearly state carplay support but the manual makes reference to wireless carplay so whether it clarifies it does or not is a little hit and miss, in any case XTRONS customer support confirmed it didn’t but it’s not a deal breaker in the grand scheme of things

Thanks Vlad, the fit is pretty good so in that regard I have no complaints. The only gripe I have with this compared to my VLINE2 is that there is no wireless carplay support out of the box and that will require a dongle, I'm planning to also add TPMS and DAB also as well get the original OEM camera working. I am tempted by the prospect of a 360 camera but that is far too much work for me at the moment.

After some perseverance, limited support from XTRONS and messing around with the CANBUS settings I've managed to get this working! I'll need to go about doing some splicing to get the OEM reverse camera working with the car but I'll report back my findings on doing that when I get time.

Ah that’s a shame if you were local I’d have lent you mine! I took my IS250 2010 f sport bumper off when fitting my VLANDS and it can be a pain in the *****, socket set is all you pretty much need though

I did have my IS250 with Lexus nottingham and they advised me to top up my oil by 0.5L, 2nd gen IS’s are known to go through oil so they need oil top ups from time to mine so may be worth checking if that’s needing to be done. that being said I slammed my brakes quite hard yesterday (bedding new brake pads) and I noticed the low oil pressure sign came up for a moment so don’t know if that’s relevant.

I shall do Vlad cheers for the advice. In terms of the Teyes, there are two distinct versions of the Teyes CC3, one is a full 10.1 inch screen and the other is a smaller version with traditional style buttons. The only one that would work with my facelift IS250 is the smaller button version and apparently the left hand side buttons don’t work either so that just seems similar to the GROM for me

Slight knocking noise but brakes seemed to work fine, I put that down to all the tools and what not in my car haha. Thanks Vlad!

Car came back from Lexus, no issues with the brakes from what they could tell aside from a calliper bolt I forgot to put back on! They recommended changing the brake discs out and getting anti squeal shims for the front brakes which appear to be missing, I assume the last garage who did my MOT may have misplaced them but despite all the hassle my diy brake maintenance was a success. Want to thank everyone who chimed know and provided some help, I feel quite confident looking at my brakes and I’ll be keeping an eye on those callipers to ensure they don’t seize up!!

Hey everyone After the demise of my USB input and Lexus no being able to diagnose it, I picked up an XTRONS android head unit to replace my GROM and for the life of me I can’t figure out how to wire it up. As mine is a 2010 facelift mine came with an additional harness to integrate with my mark Levinson audio. Anyone have any experience wiring these android head units up? My second harness mostly plugs into all the connectors from the factory but my original harness which has the CANBUS I can’t figure out how to wire that directly into the unit. The result is non working audio, air conditioning not behaving correctly and various other minor issues. This is the unit I purchased, I considered a Teyes CC3 however as mine is a facelift vehicle the full screened version doesn’t work with my car. https://xtrons.co.uk/lexus-various-android-10-octa-core-4gb-ram-64gb-rom-integrated-4g-solution-pma10isl https://xtrons.co.uk/lexus-various-iso-wiring-harness-most

Hi Stephen, I had the same predicament on this before I purchased my own VLAND headlights. On a very technical basis it will not pass an MOT due to the DRL being run at a fixed current and not dimming down when the headlights are turned on. However, it does very much depend on the garage you take it to as they can take a pragmatic or laid back approach and not fail it for this reason. I have my MOT due in September so I can only let you know if it passes then. The garage I take my car to is a Lexus specialist and while Lexus and previous MOT's advised I had corrosion or grease on my brake pipes, he advised this wasn't an issue and was common with high mileage vehicles so fingers crossed he doesnt have an issue with my VLANDS! The legal way around this is to wire up the DRL to a different fuse or a relay and this would allow them to shut off when the low beams are turned on. This video linked below is a good example.

Small update for everyone, the horrible grinding noise has been resolved but it turns out it was the dust shield for the brakes making contact with the discs! I’ve bent it out of the way with some pliers and that seems to have resolved the issue. Following on from the advice of everyone else here however my car is at Lexus to fix an issue with my radio but I’ve asked them to take a look at the brakes also for good measure. Will report whatever the outcome is. here is the video that helped me diagnose the issue, the grinding sound was the exact same one I had.

First of all thanks everyone for the kind words they're greatly appreciated! I'd love to be able to sort the problem myself but as my week off comes to an end I cant spend any more time faffing around with the car so itll likely go to a garage tomorrow if possible. That photo was taken before I messed around with the calliper, this disc looked rather rough from the start and compared to the passenger side that looks much better with no signs of rust or major use. And yes It was the driver side piston that got dislodged so you could be right about the dust, I'm hoping I won't need to shell out for a new calliper that will not be a fun prospect but If it needs doing... 🙄 I did spot some nice Brembo discs on Auto Doc but itll take too long for those to arrive I reckon so I'll see what a garage has to say regarding the grinding noise. My girlfriends dads best mate is a mechanic so he did offer to come take a look at the car once I hit the initial snag with the pads, however I don't think he'd be able to take a look til next week now so it might have to be a case of chatting with the mechanic once the car gets looked at! Haha thats true, I like to try and do most things myself only resorting to professionals when required. I was vaguely aware that the brakes for the IS were notorious for being a pain but only after going through the hassle myself do I realise how bad it was haha. I'll certainly give this a mention to the mechanic, depending if the Lexus specialist I take my car to is available I'll either take it down the road or to the pretty decent one down the road from me!

I reckon you may be right, I’ll have to arrange taking it to a garage. I had a week off to do some DIY and other work so thought I could tackle the job myself 😂

Thanks for the info, it may well be worth seeing a mechanic although I don’t know if it’s brake related as such because the noise comes from driving and when I hit the brakes no noises at all and they work well. I have heard of shims but I didn’t know it was a requirement to get them as I figured the brake pads alone would be fine. in terms of the calliper, yes I did mean the slider pin and have now freed it as that was seized up. The huge amount of heat coming from the wheel has now gone but I don’t know if the grinding noise is normal or not. i record a quick audio clip of the noise if that helps, happens when driving and reversing. Grinding noise driver side rear .zip

Small update for everyone, I ordered the clip and despite it looking different to my existing one I lost I managed to fit it on. The sliding bolts for the calliper have holes in them which this pin fits into rather than wedging behind sliding bolts and the the middle brake pad hole. Unfortunately two new issues have now become apparent. Upon driving the car with the window down yesterday I noticed an almost burning smell, I took a look at the calliper on the driver side I didn’t need to unseize and it looks like upon changing the brake pads it’s completely seized up. There was a large amount of heat coming from the rotor / wheel compared to the other three. This morning I’ve took a hammer to the calliper for a good 20 minutes and managed to free it up, regrease all the components for it and fitted it back on no problem. After that I’ve just taken the car for a quick drive with the window down and noticed a horrible grinding noise on the very same driver side rear brake, to say I’m not annoyed is an understatement! I’m thinking it could be the rotor because compared to the passenger side this one looked extremely worn out and rusty in comparison. But to my knowledge this wasn’t happening yesterday so it could be something I’ve missed? As far as I know it didn’t do this yesterday but I did get caught in some rain when sorting the calliper out, so I managed to get a bin bag over the whole disc and wiped away the water droplets that did get on. here’s a photo I took of it during the last few days. anyone have any indication what it could be? EDIT: Took the wheel off again to investigate, can’t see any issues with the brake pads, maybe it’s because the calliper I’ve now freed the calliper it’s making the noise? Provided a recording with my iPhone hanging out the driver side window [[Template core/global/editor/attachedAudio is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]] Grinding noise IS250.zip