McShmoopy

Sorry this happened to you mate! Such a great car I'm very surprised you were targeted!

That’s very good to know John cheers for the heads up, I recently did my oil change and I fitted a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve for easier oil changes in the future and to prevent me having to take the bolt off and on and reduce the chance or cross threading.

My car is fast approaching 150k so this is something I may try to attempt myself, atleast the diff oil. If you can get these back on is it worth putting anti seize onto the bolts before you put them back on to ensure they don't seize up in the future?

Makes sense, in any case it’s always worth sending your units pictures and connections so these sellers always provide you with the right equipment so we can avoid the hassle of wrong equipment haha

No worries mate https://teyes.uk/products/lexus-is250-xe20-2005-2013?_pos=2&_sid=cecd7d601&_ss=r

With the TEYES they provide you everything you need but you just have to specify what vehicle you have. For example a non NAVI vehicle you should be buying the 10 inch system and if you have a navi vehicle you should buy the 9 inch system. the fibre optic box is only there to make the 10 inch system compatible with NAVI vehicles and while it does work It does introduce some problems so I wouldn’t recommend it. If you have a facelifted NAVI vehicle (white infotainment screen instead of black) you opt for A model variant instead of the B variant as the B variant is pre facelift as they give you the corresponding compatible harnesses depending on your choice. I’ve shown some photos to help, I purchased mine from the Teyes UK website

Ordinarily you’d be right Linas but the Chinese eBay sellers or manufacturers never have thorough and clear descriptions, myself and @ahmed24 have fitted these types of units and as he said it’s basically a processing unit used for NAVI vehicles as the “fibre optic box” they’ve described is used to retain all the main features of the NAVI system. Best example I can give is the XTRONS unit I purchased had its own harness and cables but I was told to buy an additional “fibre optic box” which came with an additional harness to support my NAVI vehicle. This has been tested in both my vehicle (mark Levinson navi 2010 f sport) and my mums IS250C with a navi non ML audio system. Both required the additional fibre optic box and worked as expected. In any case I’d say the simplest way to look at it is if you have a non Navi system buy 10 andorid screen for the IS and if you have a navi system buy the 9 inch android screens as they account for navi vehicles additional features mark Levinson audio or otherwise

If you’re buying an android unit you will need the fibre optic box as you have a NAVI unit, I had a mark Levinson system from 2010 and to fit my XTRONS unit you needed the fibre optic box. However my recommended head unit to go with is the TEYES CC3 as a fellow LOC has it and I’ve ordered one myself for my mums vehicle, seems To work the best and retains all stock features and works impressively well. Particularly as you car is facelifted these are more Problematic even with my XTRONS so I’d highly suggest the Teyes CC3 as it all works. Worth reading this thread and posts on it

When I got my IS250 it came with BOSCH wipers and they were horrible and squeaky, I'd always stick with OEM Denso ones and you can get them from Euro Car Parts I believe. These will work with the IS250C as I got these for my mums car also

Looks amazing, arguably one of the best looking 2IS's in the UK!

One thing worth mentioning mate that I forgot to mention before, the only gripe with the convertibles are that they come with a pretty terrible tyre repair kit instead of a spare wheel under the boot. After my mum managed a flat tyre I opted to go get a spare wheel from a breaker and if you remove the original parcel undertray or adapt it you can fit the standard IS250 spare wheel and this is a much better solution than faffing around with the tyre repair kit. It’ll come with the car Jack and fixings to take the wheel off but I’d happily take the slight increase in weight for the convenience. one interesting quirk you’ll also notice is that all the boot carpet liners and undertray across the entire convertible range is tan, I may do a little project and dye the Carpet liners black and paint the components black to make it a little more aesthetically pleasing. Your boot struts may also be worn and it may be hard to lift the boot up but a replacement set from SGS engineering seems To do the job nicely

No real issues with the IS250C, it’s pretty similar to the standard IS250 and the roof opening and closing mechanism is pretty solid, just make sure when you do buy it that this is working as expected and as long as you look after the car it’ll look after you. My mums IS250C SE-L is a Cat D write off we picked up for pennies and it’s treated us very well so far. id try and get a SE-L top spec if possible but se-l’s are a reasonably good spec.

Did a round trip from Nottingham to Heathrow Terminal 3, managed to achieve a very excellent 43MPG there and back doing cruise control at exactly 70 on the Speedo (64-66 according to Waze). 42.7mpg on my way there and 43 by the time I got back. Not bad considering I did waste about 20 mins being stuck in terminal 3 short stay car park with the engine running! Atleast I didn’t have to pay parking as their system was down 👍🏼

I have seen it done, there’s a company in Yorkshire who are well known to this community who are good at LPG conversions so it’s worth giving them a ring although I forget their name!

70 based on the Speedo so more like 66ish mph in reality! I have noticed when I put the speedo to 80mph (74mph on GPS) my economy does tank but I weigh up economy or time saved in those situations! Will hopefully get this baby to 200k with regular servicing 🤞🏼

Hi Nate congrats on the IS250! 1) Bluetooth is with facelift models only (2009+) and you can tell this is the case if your infotainment is white 2) when yoh then cruise control on pull the stalk down one (set I think) and that’ll set the speed 3) not sure aboht the keyless entry as it should just work, that being said if you got batteries from Amazon or online they may have lost some voltage over time in storage and key functions get sketchy (has happened to me) so best to buy key batteries locally as they’ll retain their voltage and operate correctly 4) that may be a Toyota tech stream feature as my 2010 f sport turns off the lights as soon as I open the door for the car, you can programme them in all sorts of ways to turn on. 5) if it’s like my f sport sills you have to retrofit illuminated sills into it as only SE-L models came with illuminated sills. I’ll link my post to show you have I did it EDIT: here’s the link as well as other mods I’ve done

Just did a round trip from nottingham to London and back, did fill up at Costco derby the night before with the additive and with some central London driving hit a cool 38.5mpg tank average. Could be better but some speeding up also but largely cruise control at 70mph on the speedometer

Not done any science with it or rough calculations but I have noticed significantly more time between fuel ups when doing a full tank or even the acursed tenner / £20 fill up. This was far better in the summer as compared to colder weather the fuel economy will naturally decline. I have been pretty lazy with the additives recently and not added any and with E10 the fuel just does not last compared to with an additive. From my understanding the E10 is less energy dense by about 60 to 70% which would indicate a third less energy so therefore a third less in range? AFlex has put it better than I ever could haha.

Hi Malc If the E5 difference is only 6 or 7 pence for pure convenience it may work out better to get it straight via the pump. Where I am theres a close to 20p difference in the Nottingham area so not that I've done any calculations but the additive seems to make sense. 250ml of it will cost me an average of a Fiver from eBay from Mannol, I can get close to 5 full tanks with that so while I haven't done a calculation as such it seems to make sense. A little trick I do, add it to my basket / watch list and they discount the item further for me on eBay! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304000681567?hash=item46c7da465f:g:4xQAAOSwdihgoqQY&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4D6vckphwxd0UF3Fouh7sitPhWfPNSVdpnRGJGzhWBCK0Pz1ynpM21n8kGknlipJz8sBe9xuukO6OC8ZbF%2FUrNSNRLcNY3RJvx49jSv2j3zlpd7d7GdyNJYoG3HEj5Vde2a9OwkeQkqwalA4VBXYJBmdSpOR%2FR8%2B2YRUML3u02TvaVAdc6AhJDRIhKfL9%2F%2Bg6HexHApb%2FUvJUcYutHipAZOnF92qR4SxJprjprPrqjIRzbpuJkyiB2UQeRW4k8gWvVKIE%2BXjbm7%2BUSbCy2wTvJ1myCRXUckDdMlDtJOUdLTF|tkp%3ABFBM1MiuxJ1h

One thing you guys can do as an alternative is to buy some E10 additives like I do, adding it for every 1 litre of fuel to 1ml is how I do it and it seems to improve my economy and power to similar levels of E5 without the extortionate 17p difference. Ive stocked up on 4 cans of Mannol E10 additive as it's much more cost effective adding the additive to E10 at the pump vs E5 straight from the pump. if you want to try it a trip to Halfords can get you a bottle for £10 roughly or alot cheaper if you go for the one I get off eBay.

As everyone has said it's mainly about your suspension, wheel size and wheel choice. I got an F Sport 2010 and the ride was unbelievably harsh, I managed to mitigate this mostly by getting Continental Eco Contact 6's which are good for ride quality as well as efficiency. The ride is more or less acceptable but if I get a chance I may try swapping out the stock F Sport suspension to something a little comfier haha

Knowing my luck it probably was! I did notice the parking brake was off altogether when I came back from holiday, and since then the Parking Brake has never been as good before the trip. Thanks a bunch for this mate, I'll see if I can spare an evening taking a look otherwise I'll take it to a local garage. My sliding pins could do with their yearly re-grease I suppose!

The foot operated parking brake? I do tend to use that alot, although I have noticed it is far less effective since I left my car at Stanstead airport valeted parking so maybe this needs tightening back up via the rear shoes? This does make sense, as mentioned my parking brake has become less effective and has more play so maybe this needs tightening up?

Hey guys For the last few weeks I've noticed when I put the car into reverse, when reversing there is a fairly loud metallic "CLUNK" sound. Nothing that affects the operation of the car at all, but I'm wondering if this is indicative of worn bushings or anything else I should probably get sorted soon?

Have you wired this up correctly? There is a connector usually at the bottom of the unit that is easy to miss, my recommendation to people is wire this up indoors as much as you can before transferring it to the car. Better chance of getting everything wired correctly that way!