McShmoopy

70 based on the Speedo so more like 66ish mph in reality! I have noticed when I put the speedo to 80mph (74mph on GPS) my economy does tank but I weigh up economy or time saved in those situations! Will hopefully get this baby to 200k with regular servicing 🤞🏼

Hi Nate congrats on the IS250! 1) Bluetooth is with facelift models only (2009+) and you can tell this is the case if your infotainment is white 2) when yoh then cruise control on pull the stalk down one (set I think) and that’ll set the speed 3) not sure aboht the keyless entry as it should just work, that being said if you got batteries from Amazon or online they may have lost some voltage over time in storage and key functions get sketchy (has happened to me) so best to buy key batteries locally as they’ll retain their voltage and operate correctly 4) that may be a Toyota tech stream feature as my 2010 f sport turns off the lights as soon as I open the door for the car, you can programme them in all sorts of ways to turn on. 5) if it’s like my f sport sills you have to retrofit illuminated sills into it as only SE-L models came with illuminated sills. I’ll link my post to show you have I did it EDIT: here’s the link as well as other mods I’ve done

Just did a round trip from nottingham to London and back, did fill up at Costco derby the night before with the additive and with some central London driving hit a cool 38.5mpg tank average. Could be better but some speeding up also but largely cruise control at 70mph on the speedometer

Not done any science with it or rough calculations but I have noticed significantly more time between fuel ups when doing a full tank or even the acursed tenner / £20 fill up. This was far better in the summer as compared to colder weather the fuel economy will naturally decline. I have been pretty lazy with the additives recently and not added any and with E10 the fuel just does not last compared to with an additive. From my understanding the E10 is less energy dense by about 60 to 70% which would indicate a third less energy so therefore a third less in range? AFlex has put it better than I ever could haha.

Hi Malc If the E5 difference is only 6 or 7 pence for pure convenience it may work out better to get it straight via the pump. Where I am theres a close to 20p difference in the Nottingham area so not that I've done any calculations but the additive seems to make sense. 250ml of it will cost me an average of a Fiver from eBay from Mannol, I can get close to 5 full tanks with that so while I haven't done a calculation as such it seems to make sense. A little trick I do, add it to my basket / watch list and they discount the item further for me on eBay! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304000681567?hash=item46c7da465f:g:4xQAAOSwdihgoqQY&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4D6vckphwxd0UF3Fouh7sitPhWfPNSVdpnRGJGzhWBCK0Pz1ynpM21n8kGknlipJz8sBe9xuukO6OC8ZbF%2FUrNSNRLcNY3RJvx49jSv2j3zlpd7d7GdyNJYoG3HEj5Vde2a9OwkeQkqwalA4VBXYJBmdSpOR%2FR8%2B2YRUML3u02TvaVAdc6AhJDRIhKfL9%2F%2Bg6HexHApb%2FUvJUcYutHipAZOnF92qR4SxJprjprPrqjIRzbpuJkyiB2UQeRW4k8gWvVKIE%2BXjbm7%2BUSbCy2wTvJ1myCRXUckDdMlDtJOUdLTF|tkp%3ABFBM1MiuxJ1h

One thing you guys can do as an alternative is to buy some E10 additives like I do, adding it for every 1 litre of fuel to 1ml is how I do it and it seems to improve my economy and power to similar levels of E5 without the extortionate 17p difference. Ive stocked up on 4 cans of Mannol E10 additive as it's much more cost effective adding the additive to E10 at the pump vs E5 straight from the pump. if you want to try it a trip to Halfords can get you a bottle for £10 roughly or alot cheaper if you go for the one I get off eBay.

As everyone has said it's mainly about your suspension, wheel size and wheel choice. I got an F Sport 2010 and the ride was unbelievably harsh, I managed to mitigate this mostly by getting Continental Eco Contact 6's which are good for ride quality as well as efficiency. The ride is more or less acceptable but if I get a chance I may try swapping out the stock F Sport suspension to something a little comfier haha

Knowing my luck it probably was! I did notice the parking brake was off altogether when I came back from holiday, and since then the Parking Brake has never been as good before the trip. Thanks a bunch for this mate, I'll see if I can spare an evening taking a look otherwise I'll take it to a local garage. My sliding pins could do with their yearly re-grease I suppose!

The foot operated parking brake? I do tend to use that alot, although I have noticed it is far less effective since I left my car at Stanstead airport valeted parking so maybe this needs tightening back up via the rear shoes? This does make sense, as mentioned my parking brake has become less effective and has more play so maybe this needs tightening up?

Hey guys For the last few weeks I've noticed when I put the car into reverse, when reversing there is a fairly loud metallic "CLUNK" sound. Nothing that affects the operation of the car at all, but I'm wondering if this is indicative of worn bushings or anything else I should probably get sorted soon?

Have you wired this up correctly? There is a connector usually at the bottom of the unit that is easy to miss, my recommendation to people is wire this up indoors as much as you can before transferring it to the car. Better chance of getting everything wired correctly that way!

Hi Mate, Ahmed has chosen to change the camera out and not use the OEM stock one provided, you can use the original OEM Camera as it involves either a harness (or with mine splicing a cable or two) however until someone can confirm and check this I don't think you can use the touch screen input on the reverse camera screen for the extra features like parallel park assist and what not.

To be fair I was experiencing this for quite some time, I found that the batteries I ordered from Amazon were the main cause. I believe the key fobs operate on a 3V CR123 battery and over time if the battery has been sitting around in storage they lose their voltage and drop to 2.9V. When that happens the key fobs tend to misbehave, not unlocking or locking properly even via keyless entry. Best way around this is go to Halfords or any retail store directly and get a battery from there. Their batteries arent stored there for months and months unlike Amazon so good chance thatll resolve your unstable key fob, this seemed to work for me. I did get some RF interference one time on my estate when they were doing phone line works and had to park my car on the driveway else I couldn't open it unless I used the key blade!

That's good to know cheers Vlad, I've been meaning to get behind there and organise it as there is a LARGE mess of cables back there!

That’s fair enough mate, I did spot a IS350 Jap import on Facebook marketplace and was almost tempted but I’m very happy with my IS250 for the time being, just not at the petrol pump haha. Those old school toyotas look sweet and looks like you’ve bagged a good example! Hope you get many enjoyable miles out of this.

That’s a shame I quite enjoyed following your IS250 build, what prompted the sale?

Hey guys came across an odd issue I’ve noticed, when driving I get his occasional whine coming from somewhere in the car and it comes and goes. Anyone have any idea what this is? I’ve attached a video showing this IMG_0698.MOV

Cheers for the advice mate, I am ending up with the advance, although I will be retrofitting Apple CarPlay into the CT200H as my first point of call when I get it! Will let you know how I get on with that

Thanks that has really helped actually, I think I will be going for the Advanced as it has more things that I would largely benefit from. Premier would be my preference but not within my budget unfortunately haha

Cheers Maurice, I've driven a CT200h before when my car has been with the Lexus dealer and they're pleasant enough to drive. I'm looking to start saving some money and as much as I love my IS250 the price of petrol is getting a bit silly so I'm looking to get something more economical, I was leaning more towards the Advance myself!

Hi Guys I'm considering two different Ct200h's and I wanted to get peoples opinions, which would be the better option to go with? I'm coming from a near enough fully loaded IS250 (F Sport) so do appreciate the creature comfort's of it such as electronic memory seats and the premium audio but wanted to know what would be the better spec'd Ct200h. The SE-L is a non navi one so no in screen entertainment (I'd consider adding my own aftermarket android unit) but the Advance has largely everything you'd need such as the screen and reverse camera.

Seems like a silly question, but have you pressed the door button next to the courtesy lights? That can disable all interior LED's when the doors are open.

Wrynns E10, I found that by using any ethanol stablising additive my Mpg returns to acceptable to levels. It’s not the cheapest as I pick it up from Halfords but I plan on ordering some Mannol Ester E10 additive in bulk off eBay as it’s absolute pennies that way

Did a trip to Manchester airport from Nottingham with a services break in between and managed to achieve a respectable 41.8mpg, this is with E10 fuel with my E10 additive from Halfords. I was previously using cruise control at 80 mph but that really tanks the economy so did it exactly on 70mph (translates to around 64mph in reality with Waze) I reckon if I were to give the injectors a good clean more could possibly be achieved.

No worries, let us know how you get on! I love the look of the 2011+ facelifts but I really wanted the memory seats functions which only came with the early facelifts from 2009 to early 2011.