McShmoopy

Hey Sam, most people tend to do just do euro car parts and try and get premium brand pads when theyre on sale like EBC or Brembo, some swear by OEM only but just see what your budget allows. Main thing is if youre doing rear brakes make sure the calliper slide pins or piston isnt seized up as thats a very common design flaw with these cars, silicone paste for the pins and new rubber boots if theyre worn or degraded and cleaning all the components thoroughly is a good start

To be fair drilling out broken bolts is something I could do with some practice on so I may try and source a carrier slider just so I can get the brake job done and on a free evening try and get the buggar out as you've suggested!

Cheers for the advice Steve, that was my thoughts exactly but wanted a second opinion. A shame as I just managed to refurb my rear callipers only for the front to let me down haha, not a fun expense !

Did a first attempt at doing my front brakes as it was making groaning nosing indicating pads and discs were worn, unfortunately during the process of trying to remove the slide pins it ended up snapping on me! Turns out both of these were complete seized up and while I was able to get the first out the second snapped. Do I have any options for extracting this and replacing the slide pin or is it a new carrier slider necessary?

FLSH will be Full Lexus Service History, ideally the facelifts address alot of the common issues but as most members state if you regularly service the car you shouldnt have major issues. I just bought a facelift 2009 IS250 for my mum and it did encounter an issue with seized callipers recently after 8 weeks of ownership, more specifically the previous garage who did it forgot one of the retaining pins and this caused the Piston to seize and excessive brake pad and disc wear, whatever car you decide to get its always good to inspect the rear brakes yourself and make sure they're in good order before you have issues down the line. I always tend to do a yearly check on the rear callipers and re-grease with silicone paste if necessary. If thats not something you're handy with taking it to a decent garage / mechanic you trust is the next best thing. Having worked on facelift and non facelift vehicles, the facelifts are nicer but usually not worth the large cost but if you can find a good deal it's worth considering. I've always been lucky and have managed to find facelift vehicles around the £4k to £5k mark.

I’ve got some experience fitting these teyes units, are you guys still having audio issues?

For that budget IS250 is the way to go, go either for a top spec SE-L or F sport ideally, anything else isn’t worth it imho. Dont let high miles out you off my f sport is on 160k miles and aside from the exhaust falling off from old age no real issues as such, just keen on top of maintenance snd you’re good. V6 f sport has a sportier intake so it does sound great, can be improved with a sound generator from a 3IS that makes it sound like a baby v8

Just on this,I did a calliper rebuild with the new piston and seems to be behaving great now. I had to get my brother to assist with depressing the brakes while I inspected and had to open the master cylinder reservoir and it took 5 minutes as the brake piston was very seized up, when the piston was freed I very quickly clamped the brake line using some brake line clamps from Hilka. Cleaned out the area where the piston was with brake cleaner, removed old seals and used the provided red lube on the piston and seals, using a regular piston tool this went in like butter in comparison to the old and bled the brakes after. No more heat kicking out from the rear brakes now!

Hey guys I'm planning on opening up the wing mirrors of my IS250 to replace the puddle light bulb as well as the glass and noticed that the staining running underneath the wing mirrors is quite bad, from what I've researched apparently the aluminium in the wing mirror frame tends to get corroded from rain and salt and this causes the dripping / staining underneath. I was thinking to get some corrosion inhibitor and give the whole area a clean, has anyone else managed to address this also and have any tips?

Dont know if you've sorted this, unless theres something wrong with the brake lines I wouldnt go out of your way to change them. Its a nice upgrade but I wouldnt bother unless youre doing a big brake upgrade for example, The callipers can usually be salvaged if you grease the slider pins and replace the degraded rubber boots, in my case I've got a sticking piston so I've ordered a replacement piston from eBay

How have you gotten on with the seized piston? Turns out this is an issue on my rear right calliper so I've opted to buy a piston rebuild kit and replace mine as it was extremely hard to push in so I imagine it's corroded or seized up.

Unfortunately they will have sent you a type B so it wont work, even in my normal IS the space is tight so you’ll likely have to trim some the redundant back plastic that is used non navi models. Im planning on doing the same and running a new camera as I’ve upgraded my xtrons to a teyes and transplanted my xtrons to a slightly older IS. The only consideration with the IS250C for you is running the camera cable as it is a nightmare compared to regular IS’s although fellow member Ahmed had some recent success. Photos of my recent teyes install, still in progress and will need to trim the back.

Hi Dave drop me a PM I can go into some more detail with you and provide a fairly complex solution.

Here is the current setup of my XTRONS in my 2010 F Sport IS25, wireless CarPlay and android auto all working as you'd expect. IMG_1824.HEIC

I've got some experience in the android head unit area for these IS250's the key thing is to understand whether your car is a pre facelift or facelift model, easiest tell is if you have a white type of infotainment or the all black. Usually if your car is a facelift 2009 you'll have the new style white infotainment but thats not always the case as one of my vehicles is a 2009 facelift car with an old black style infotainment. The best ones to get on the market are the Teyes CC3 as they provide full functionality of your original OEM radio and preserve the original sound quality of your Mark Levinson or standard sound system. I have used other head units such as XTRONS and the GROM V Line but the Teyes is the best in terms of quality and reliability. You would purchase a specific model depending on your type of infotainment or the seller would provide you harnesses to support both pre facelift and facelift, however your mileage may vary. I fitted a Teyes CC3 to a IS250C aso if you need any support feel free to reach out otherwise Ahmed on the LOC forums has recently fitted one of these and he's the go to for Lexus mods in this community.

Yes the Teyes CC3 retains the original DSP for the mark Levinson system, there is an additional DSP that can be used to customise the audio further but if left alone it remains like stock. You are advised before making the swap to the TEYES to set your EQ and audio levels on the OEM system however you usually can access the OEM DSP settings via an app on most android units

Cheers mate, I was more used to a horrible screeching noise from the brake pad wear indicators. I’ll probably use the standard pads and discs I’ve got this time around and next time consider a big brake upgrade!

Hey guys Been experiencing some whirring type noise when braking from what I believe is the front brakes, Ive got some new front discs and pads ready to go but before I tackle it I thought I'd get a second opinion incase its something else that could be causing the noise. IMG_5326.MOV

Whats the spec on this? My brother may be after an F Sport if the price is right

The only time aftermarket stuff can throw up an error code is if you upgrade the tail lights with something like a HC motion set of tail lights, usually these require a resistor or something installed alongside it as the pre facelift out of the box cant support upgraded LED tail lights. The VLAND headlights dont suffer from this kind of issue so it's either an incorrect fuse has been pulled or a set of fuse has blown responsible for the three errors you're getting. I do recall getting quite a few dashboard errors when I installed my VLANDS but thats because I pulled the wrong fuse out, once I used the correct ones no errors or dashboard issues

As far as Im aware UK IS250s dont normally support the factory TPMS system, only the IS250C supported the TPMS system so assuming the car is a UK non convertible and hasnt been modified nothing will appear on the dash. These TPMS systems will only work on the android head unit only; so whichever one you get will work as long as the corresponding app is used, if you buy a non teyes TPMS system youll just install the relevant APK to view the TPMS system

Don't have a 2022 NX350h but all the Lexus infotainments have had similar adjustment options, if you go to Sound or DSP type of menu you can adjust the Bass Midrange and Treble as well as changing the sound levels from the speakers as well as enable auto sound leveller (compression) as well as surround sound if you have a Mark Levinson system

From what I can tell mate the Teyes wouldn't bypass the factory amp but tap into it, this is because whenever we access the new head units we have a factory amp settings type app to adjust the OEM settings, so if youre looking to get any Lexus android head unit youll likely need the factory amp, these can be gotten fairly easy from breakers however

Itll generally remain the same except if you have a facelift 2011 onwards car where they change to the modern circular foglight, only thing ive pinched is a rubber right angle for the headlight washer so I could block mine off / delete it but I'm sure the part could be found relatively easy on eBay, aside from that fully stock and it shouldn't be classed as a mod unless the colour is different haha

Similar thing happened to me, swiped rear drive side door with dents and scuffs, my insurers tried to write it off but other parties insurer (Motabiltiy) approached me and advised if I got a repair quote they'd pay me out directly for the cost, they knocked an amount off £3.3k for the estimate but got £2.5k and no write off and did a private repair myself