Walus

I charged both batteries (the original Panasonic 51Ah, and Yuasa 65Ah) using CTEK charger. Starting off at 12.25V for both batteries the new Yuasa charged up to full around 25% quicker than the Panasonic - 6h vs 8h.

I’ve just ordered a CTEK MXS battery charger and the manual suggests that it is suitable for in vehicle battery charging. Is there anything against using it for charging the 12V battery without disconnecting it from the vehicle? Thanks. Edit: Herbie, you seem to have additional leads hooked up to the battery in your RX (as per the picture). I assume these are for an easy in vehicle charging?

Try pressing and holding Menu button and turning On/Off the lights three times. This should bring up a service menu on the infotainment screen. You can find the 12V battery reading there. Switch off the car when you are done.

I could not find any AGM battery other than the Panasonic S55D23L that would be suitable in terms of spec and size. If they were a good match in terms of Ah rating, the case was not adequate to be clamped securely in the booth. The Yuasa YBX 5005 I have chosen seems the closest match even though it is not an AGM. It has been designed to be used in cabin compartments and is VDA roll-over compliant. It is a high performance, low internal resistance battery. So all in all the best alternative out there imo.

Thanks Herbie, interesting stuff. I found that one can access the service menu via: "Press the ON button once, then I press and hold the menu button (above and to the left of the remote controller) while flipping the light switch to the on and then the off position rapidly 3-4 times until the Main Menu appears (make sure you flip the light switch to On not Auto) - The Service Main Menu will appear:"

As a matter of interest, what voltage readings do you guys get on a 12V battery and an overnight voltage drop (i.e. 12h discharge) when a vehicle is parked up? Is there a service mode that one can use to monitor the voltage level of the said battery via the infotainment system?

That was a dealer in Eire. They quoted 320 euro just for the battery. They charge what they want, typically 30-50% more than in UK.

And ‘seems’ is a key word here. Time will tell.

The YBX 5005 has the rollover-proof lid and is tested for such event.

I needed to find a replacement for the Panasonic S55D23L battery as it was not holding charge for very long. A straight replacement of a Lexus dealer was over 300 quid, so I decided to see if there was a possible alternative. I found Yuasa YBX 5005 to be a like for like replacement in terms of the housing as it fits perfectly in the space without any modifications. The main issue is of course that it is not an AGM type and needs to be vented. While the battery itself does not come with any accessories I rang Yuasa UK and they kindly posted a vent plug and an elbow. The vent is on both sides so, one end needs to be blocked off and the other connected to a hose. It took about 20 minutes to swap the battery. These batteries go for £78 on Amazon, so even if it lasts 3 years, it is still worth it. They are of 65Ah capacity, so very much on par with the revised Panasonic (70Ah) that the dealer quoted me for. I’ll keep an eye on it to see how it performs and report.

The lights go down and up before settling at the default point each time I turn the engine on. I thought that the AFS only does the adjustment relative to the null point, which is set for flat surface, full tank of petrol etc. If I understand you correctly katabrontes you seem to be thinking along the same lines. Thanks.

These are the screws I’m on about:

Thanks Herbie. I would have thought that the sensor itself delivers the signal for the AFS on a single pin which is common to both headlights, and therefore if the issue is to do with only one side, the sensor and the bracket are most likely ok. It seems to be a 3 pin device, so that would confirm to me this theory. there is at least one screw at the headlight (possibly another one as well) that would suggest to me that the headlight can be adjusted independently of AFS. This is for setting the main body of the headlight in a default position as the AFS only drives the low beam lens.

I’m new to the forum, so hello everyone! My car has just failed an inspection test on headlight alignment. The guy said the near side is a bit too high. I always though that these self align and so am not sure if I could go to a regular garage to get it sorted, or should I go to a Lexus dealer as this problem is a bit more complex and a regular screwdriver is no good here? The information that I gathered so far is confusion, some say it is a simple adjustment of two screws at the headlight, others link it with the AFS system and the sensor at the rear suspension. I’m completely confused at this stage. I hope that someone here will be able to clarify this. I left quite a bit of money with the dealer only a month ago and am quietly hoping that this is a job for a man with a Philips screwdriver. Thanks.