Marleez

Just had my throttle body cleaned as part of my full service. Just  noticed its idling louder. Will it go back to quiet?

Does anyone know how to adjust the sat nav volume?

How do you adjust the sat nav volume?

The error hasn't popped up again. And I been back to using bp Ultimate. May have been some dodgy fuel. Car has been fine. 

No idea. Unless the fluid leaked on the under tray of the engine and came out of the other side. New pump fitted and no leakage. 

On 3/26/2021 at 7:20 PM, Texas said:

 

Posted on wrong thread

16 hours ago, Texas said:

Prob a pipe split ( possibly due to frost) or come adrift at some point, any work been done on car lately that may account for this?

Not had frost for a few months here in london. 

9 hours ago, Texas said:

Prob a pipe split ( possibly due to frost) or come adrift at some point, any work been done on car lately that may account for this?

Not had frost for a few months here in london. 

9 hours ago, Texas said:

Prob a pipe split ( possibly due to frost) or come adrift at some point, any work been done on car lately that may account for this?

Nothing has been done.

Washer not working on windscreen. The washer works for my headlights. But not the windscreen. 

I put some screen wash in my car and it leaked behind front driver side wheel. Not sure it would leak there?

Has anyone updated their San nav 

Mine has some old roads and the routes need updating. Is it easy to do?

Had engine management light and traction control light on and got this error on diagnostics machine.

Cleared codes and I'll see if this pops up again. I always use BP ultimate. Today was the first time I used vpower.  May have been the fuel. Anyone else had this issue?

I'll ask my mate and get back to you. 

7 hours ago, Texas said:

Sounds very ‘Un-Lexus’ 250ish, Not for me thanks and in UK would not pass MOT ( original designed system components missing, also fail on bumper reflectors missing!) but hey in Bulgaria must be OK?

The car is a uk car. Just has Bulgarian plates on there. It is a right hand drive 2007 lexus is. 

My friend has removed the cat and remapped  his is250 now has 240 hp.

Sounds nice.

What do you think?

On 16/01/2021 at 11:26 AM, ahmed-abrar said:

yes its worth it if the cars a keeper (3-5 years plus) & your gonna do the mileage, no performance gains in my opinion unless with other engine mods

part no 33.2345 btw if you haven't already checked

On 22/01/2021 at 10:59 AM, Derek Kane said:

Hi all, has anyone here changed the transmission fluid and is there a service interval for that? I know that lexus say its life time but define life time. My car has 89000 on it and I think a change of fluid and filter for that matter would be a good idea at this point. Any advice welcome, thanks. 

I got mine changed at a garage. It's been driving fine

13 hours ago, H3XME said:

HKS Hi-Power axle back system

Do you get a nice rumble when you are cruising??

I have 15mm spacers on the front of mine and 20mm spacers on the back. They fit directly on the hub and the wheels bolt on to the spacers. My front tyres are 18 225 40 and rear 18 235 40. That's because the front and rear wheels are the same size. If my rear wheels were staggered I would have got 255 40 18s. 

Got mine ordered and fitted by FAW in hampstead London 

On 12/01/2021 at 11:05 AM, H3XME said:

My 18x9.5 ET38 wheels sit 26mm further out compared to factory 17x8 ET45 wheels. 9.5 ET38 is too much for the front on factory ride height. Rear ones are just about flush / in line with the top of the arch. 

However, I have lowered the car on coilovers by about 60mm (it's still very comfortable due to softer spring rates, so I didn't lose comfort even though it's lower)

By lowering the car, the suspension tweaks to a point where you gain natural negative camber. 

With the camber I gained just by lowering the car, the front wheels have tucked in by a lot. From a slight poke to being 10-13mm in the arch. I don't have a picture of that, but they are well within the arch.

The rear wheels went in so much due to camber that I ended up using 22mm wheel spacers (which makes them 48mm further out compared to stock wheels, but again, i only "needed" to use spacers because it's been lowered and camber tucked the wheel in too much for my liking). Pics below. The wheels have a slight, aggressive poke, nothing too excessive. I'm happy with the rear fitment with my slightly stretched 225/40 tyres on the 9.5J rims.

Fitment game is a difficult one to get it done right. Takes a lot of measuring and trying different things. It's safer to go for wheels that are within the arches and then tweak it with wheel spacers depending on how low you want the car to sit. 

IF you are NOT planning on lowering the car, your new wheels should be something like 8.5J ET35-45 for a fitment that will be 10-20mm further in the arch than my wheels on factory height. Hope that makes sense to all.

 

@Linas.P Yes, the negative camber plays its role, but I gained it just by lowering the car, I didn't need any camber arms or anything. Arches are slightly pinched/rolled on the front otherwise it would rub on full lock, but ONLY when i lowered the car. On factory height, I had no issues whatsoever, even with sh*t (pokey) fitment.

What exhaust do you have?

I have 15mm spacers on the front of mine and 20mm spacers on the back. They fit directly on the hub and the wheels bolt on to the spacers. My front tyres are 18 225 40 and rear 18 235 40. That's because the front and rear wheels are the same size. If my rear wheels were staggered I would have got 255 40 18s. 

Got mine ordered and fitted by FAW in hampstead London 

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

Just don't see how that makes financial sense, but in the end of the day it is your money 🙂

If you drive a lexus. You dont need to worry about money lol

10 hours ago, Linas.P said:

Yes, but for price of 2012 IS-F you can get RC-F which not only going to have DLR, but will as well going to be 4 years never model and 8 years never technology and design. 

I mean from time to time you can find RC-F for ~£26-28k, and 2012-13 IS-Fs ~£23k nowadays... have no idea who is buying them and why, but that seems to be market pricing now.

Obviously, up to you, but I would rather get £14k IS-F (that is the price I can understand for ~8-10 years old car) and if DLRs are really that needed then retrofit them or fit aftermarket lights.

I dont like the rcf. I like the isf. The 2011 + models have updated audio with USB and hdd plus drl like my current one has. The 2011 shape is my favourite IS shape. 

27 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Funny enough, white IS-F was just added to autotrader today for £14,000, but not 2012. Any particular reason why you want specifically 2012? 

I seen it. I want one with factory drls.