Superduner

While accessing the fuse box to try to get my washers working (see another post) I came across a fuse labelled DRL. I don't have DRLs on my 2007 RX400H, but does the presence of a fuse indicate that the wiring is there for them? If so I'll get some. Where are they fitted on an RX400H? I'm not near the car right now, so I can't take a look, but would that fused DRL circuit be live when the ignition is on and off when the lights come on? Or just on all the time the ignition is on. Thanks in advance for any advice.

The windscreen washer on my 2007 RX400H has just stopped working (the rear window washer is fine). I'm trying to get to the interior fuse box, which I understand is under the glove box (mine is a RHD car), but it's covered with a black plastic trim piece. (Silly) question is, how do I get that off? There are 3 cut outs in the nearest edge of the trim, but poking a screw driver in them doesn't appear to do anything like releasing a catch. I'm obviously reluctant to use force......!

Hope so.....

I think that the rear washer nozzle on my 2007 model is blocked. The pump is working, but no water. I tried poking a long needle into it, but no joy. The nozzle is tucked well up under the spoiler and I can't see a way of getting it out, even after removing the interior trim. All that lets me see is that the pipe appears to still be attached. Does this mean that the spoiler has to come off?

Thanks Colin. Turning the wheel fully both ways did the trick. Or maybe it cured itself. I'll never know! In passing, while I was playing around with the buttons, I found a whole bunch of reverse camera "guideline modes" that I didn't know existed. I'll still only use the one with the moving lines though.

I just had a bit of work done in my local Lexus dealer, including replacing the dipped HID bulbs. After replacement I noticed that the dip beams turned with the steering - something I'd not noticed before. On the downside, however, when in reverse, I don't get the turning guidelines on the camera screen, and there is a "system initialising" message with a warning triangle. Logic tells me they are connected issues, but is there a way of initialising the system myself (hidden menu, maybe), or is it a trip back to the workshop? There are a couple of YouTube videos showing a fix, but I' thought I'd check with the gurus here (Herbie, are you listening?) first. I've emailed the dealer, but they are now closed for the weekend. I'm pretty sure they will put it right, but if I can do it easily, then it will save a 30km drive on Monday.

Thanks Herbie - good information as always. But......... Post Brexit I've pretty much stopped buying from the UK as it's a bit of a pot luck scenario as regards VAT and duty for stuff coming into France. My original query was more to do with my choice of replacement than where to buy them.

I'm sure that this has been covered before, but I can't seem to find anything relevant. My car is going into my local Lexus workshop here in deepest, darkest France for a 95,000 mile check and minor service, including a traction battery check. (they put in a new timing belt and water pump at 90,000 miles) The dip beams are, I know, HID, and I think D2S. They are original and getting a bit dimmer than I'd like them to be, so I want to replace them. They are quite happy to put in new bulbs if I supply them (Lexus ones are 90€ each). Could someone point in in the direction of a good, long lasting replacement? As the front of the car has to be dismantled to change them, I don't want to have to fit another set for a while. I was looking at these: Amazon.fr: Philips 85122WHV2S1 WhiteVision gen2 D2S xenon bulb, 1 blister. or: D2S Twenty20 Arc Upgrade 12V 35W Xenon HID Bulbs (autobulbsdirect.co.uk). I've had good experiences with Twenty20 stuff. I'm assuming that it's not a good idea to upgrade to 50W for fear of overloading the supply to the bulb. Could someone confirm or otherwise? Any help/pointers appreciated.

For me it's not been an issue to leave it in. Current drain seems to be minimal (but ask the manufacturer anyway)

To check if the hybrid battery cooling fans are working, get an obd dongle and use Hybrid Assistant on a mobile phone. It will give you the battery temperature and the level of cooling fan. Mine is running at 39 degrees and level 3 (out of 6) when the outside temp is 30. The fans take air from below the back seat, so, in theory, cold air from the air conditioning that collects on the floor.

I have the Grom. By and large, it's fine (particularly the music and navigation options), but as it's a slightly strange Android system, it does not always play well with some apps. Grom are always updating firmware and software, and I've found them very responsive to queries. PM me if you have any specific questions

I've posted a few times on this subject, and broadly speaking agree with everything above (including the red traffic light issue). I've driven a few hundred km and then out of interest put the Ctek on to see what happens. It took another 4 hours to bring it up to what the charger classed as full. This on a new battery. FYI, I've had no trouble starting the car when the 12v was at 11.6v. I have a voltage read out in my power plug and even if the battery is at 12.3-5, as the "ignition switch" is turned, it drops down to about 11.6v just before the ready light comes on. I also have a bluetooth battery monitor fitted. It's extremely interesting (but I'm a sad person who doesn't go out much) to see battery voltages over time.

That was the response I got when clicking on your original link. Just copied it into my reply.

Just a word of warning about LEDs for high beam. Have a look at the reflector and see if there is a "flat" area running vertically down the middle from top to bottom. If there is, then you won't get a good beam pattern from an LED bulb, as on most of them the light comes out to the sides. On my RX, it's this middle bit that throws that light into the distance and with the LEDs I had it just was not receiving any light. In the end I went for an HID upgrade bulb as they give out light more or less all round.

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That's a really helpful post. Thanks

Hi Steve, Yes, I took them off, but there was hardly any "lint" on any of them, or in the vents themselves (as far as I know, the car has not really had many rear seat passengers in its life). Funnily enough, I went out in the car last night when it was 15 degrees outside, and the temp went up to 44 after about 10km (showing red on Hybrid Assistant). After we came out from the restaurant and drove for a couple of km towards home, fan still on 3, the temp went down to 39 quite quickly and then up to 40 (yellow on HA) - where it stayed. According to HA, the batteries seem to retain heat for quite a while when the car is turned off. They are quite dense, I suppose. I've got the manual for the car, so the next stage was going to be having a look at the fans, but as you say, if something was wrong in that area, there would certainly be a warning light flashing somewhere. Could I ask where you read that 40-60 is the normal operating temperature for the batteries? It could be that HA is "calibrated" a bit wrong for the car, and 44 degrees is actually a normal state and should be shown as green rather than red.

Bump.......anyone?

Now that the weather is warmer, Hybrid Assistant is showing my hybrid battery tempurature as getting up to 45 degrees. The fan is then running at level 3. I've cleaned what little fluff was on the 3 vent grills under the rear seat, but even if I set the fan manually to level 6, not that much air seems to be sucked into the vents. So, four questions. Is 45 degrees something to worry about (today was about 30 degrees here in France and the drive was about 90km on open roads); secondly, is the battery cooling fan likely to be clogged; is it easy to get to for cleaning without having to worry about high battery voltages on potentially exposed wiring under the back seat and lastly where is the hot air from the battery cooling system exhausted out of the car (maybe the outlet is blocked)? I have no fault codes or error messages, touch wood, and the engine was running at 86 degrees. Yes, I know that that info is not particularly relevant.

My local Lexus dealer used a system that I don't think was Techstream (but must have been similar). He programmed everything in about 5 minutes.

You are about to dive into a rabbit's warren of obscure and mystifying sorcery! Anyway, I bought a blank for my RX400H from Car Keys Online (car-keys-online.com). It wasn't too expensive. Cutting the key can be done by most good high street key sellers. I'm not sure that many in the UK can programme them though. No key cutter here in France could programme the key to start the car - only to get into it without the alarm going off by selling me a cloned chip. I ended up going to Toyota to get it fully programmed (60€). You will finds loads of posts and articles online (including this site) to tell you how to do it yourself. They involve intricate combinations of turning keys and locking and unlocking doors. For me, none of them worked, so I gave up and went to Toyota.

A bit more information, which may still be relevant (it's from a while ago). The Five Stages of Prius Hybrid Operation | PriusChat It's a lot more complex than I first thought. PriusStageModeReference051408.pdf

I did look at the HA site before I posted, but the documentation doesn't go into detail about those particular items. It's the"idle check" I'd really like to know a bit more about. I think it's something to do with the"glide" way of driving which can be turned off in the settings. The video you linked to shows it but not in enough detail for my curious mind Let's see if the developer comes back to me on YouTube

Maybe someone who uses Hybrid Assistant can help me out with this. On the display on the right that looks like a piston, it shows if the engine is running (when it's green). Under the rpm display it shows S1A S1B S3, S4 or "Idle Check". What do these mean? I've looked through the documentation and it's not detailed. There does not appear to be an easy way to contact the app developer (short of going on Facebook which I avoid like the plague). I have left a comment on one of his YouTube videos, so maybe I'll get an answer from there. Given that HA gives more detailed information than the car gauges, I was wondering what temperature the car should run at. Today it's about 20 degrees celcius outside, and HA is showing 83-88 degrees. It struck me that if I was in heavy traffic on a hot day and the engine (and therefore water pump) was not running continuously, there might be a tendency to be hotter than if I was traveling at 80-90 kph with the engine running. The car gauge was at about its normal level (half). I'd welcome any input on this

I found that even after a 2 hour run my Ctek charger considered that the battery was"flat"and took another 3 or 4 hours to get it up to"full". And that's with a new battery. Now it's warmer, I found that the small battery keeps its charge a lot longer than during the winter. I'm still monitoring with a Bluetooth monitor and over the last 2 weeks the loss in voltage is about half of what it was over the same period in February/March