LenT

Very interesting, Richard, regarding captured grime. But not a problem I’ve personally experienced or heard of before. Indeed, unless an Alloygator is somehow physically ripped off, I doubt I will ever see a rim again! And they are, after all, the most vulnerable part of a wheel. As for being super careful when parking, well who can disagree with that! My scuff action was mainly on the move, typically having to take evasive action when encountering an oil tanker on a bend in a country lane in the snow that covered a small kerb! And if it’s not a kerb it’s a pothole. The guy who did my recent car detailing (described elsewhere) was on his third alloy wheel claim with the Local Authority as a result of damage caused by an unreported pothole. It seems to me that in the unremitting battle between Me V Kerb, I have to win every time. For Kerb, just the once will do!

Excellent, Robert. They replaced the original Yokohamas, (I think they were) and even allowing for the firmer ride associated with low profile 18” alloy wheels, provided a significantly smoother and quieter performance. While I might admit to a driving style best described as “brisk”, I certainly don’t “explore the limits of the performance envelope”. Nevertheless I think that the wet weather handling in particular is far more reassuring than with the OE tyres. They have had very good reviews in the tyre specialist magazines, too, as an all-weather choice. I’m not sure that Dunlops are the force they once were. Can’t even remember when I last had them. For the last few decades (!) I can only recall buying Goodyear, Michelin CrossClimates, Michelin X and Pirelli.

Just to add that the tyres have what Goodyear regard as a rim protector profile moulded on to the tyre anyway. You can clearly see how much further the Alloygator projects beyond the tyre profile.

Taking your second question first: Yes. Scuffs on the plastic rim protector are not very noticeable and can be smoothed away. But would have been irritatingly obvious on an alloy rim. And the rim protector is easily replaced anyway. Fitted to a new wheel it provides instant protection. In my experience, fitting one Alloygator was cheaper than having one scuffed rim repaired. Fitting. As it happened I was going to have a new set of Goodyear Asymmetric 5s fitted by a tyre outfit I’d used before - and saw they were Agents for Alloygator. So a deal was struck! Is it a DIY job? Well, the plastic rim needs a special tool to cut it, which shapes the end and punches a retaining hole for the small jointing piece. But that may be available from Alloygator, along with the other components. Otherwise you need a soft-faced mallet and a tyre inflator. They are best fitted with the wheel off the car. I notice there a plenty of videos around on how it’s done. You can also use them as a fashion statement! I chose black to look like part of the tyre, but they come in a range of colours. Frankly I can’t find a good reason for NOT fitting them. To reflect on an early comment, I would suggest they are a no-brainer. 😊 PS. Had car detailed recently, which included wheel treatment. I think you can see the Rim Protector on the wheels.

Kerbing the near side rims was one of the first things I did with my IS250! Mind you, it was my first experience of low profile alloys and our narrow country lanes were under snow, hiding the kerbs anyway. Our local ChipsAway guy did a very impressive repair job but I quickly realised this could become an expensive habit. Then I discovered Alloygator Rim Protectors. Since then I merely feel reassured that any new scuff has saved me at least £60 a rim In fact it’s an investment that has already been handsomely repaid.

It is the one disappointing feature of my IS250. In fact I use the Garmin sat/nav that I brought over from my previous car. So I get quarterly free updates and a system that doesn’t demand a manual of hundreds of pages in order to get you where you want to go. Quite why Lexus will buy in a superior audio system but remain committed to such an inferior sat/nav is a mystery.

I would agree with all of that. I think you have to be a fully paid up masochist to own a manual for driving mainly in London. Or any major city, come to that. But the car is what it is and no doubt your budget determines what you can buy, it’s age and condition. Are you a member of one of the motoring organisations? Or know any good mechanics? See if you can get the car independently inspected. If the owner resists, there’s a reason...so probably best to walk away. Knowing when to walk away from a deal is one of the great lessons in Life! Others have already advised as to the reliability of an IS250 of that age. I can’t comment on that. In the end, if it’s a sound car and one that you can comfortably afford, then I think the pleasure you will get from owning it will outweigh such matters as the manual/auto debate.

As a point of information- and to lighten the mood for a moment - it wasn’t Carroll Shelby who drove an AC Cobra up the M1 early one morning. I was engaged on a project with AC Cars and met the chap who did. At the time it was common practice for Manufacturers, dealers, tuners and the like, to use the M1 in the early hours for test runs. In those days and at those hours, there was not very much on it. And of course it was a lot cheaper than hiring a test track! Apparently this driver mentioned his test run to a local reporter while discussing the Cobra, who then mentioned it some time later in a story about AC Cars, which was later spotted by a journalist on the National Press on a quiet news day, which was then exploited by an MP who’d been trying to introduce a National speed limit! Mind you, it would have happened in the UK sooner or later as motorway traffic grew.

It would worry anyone in the UK. The MOT requirements now include the emission of black smoke from diesel exhausts and any signs of tampering or removal of the DPF as immediate fails.

Drat! But as I mentioned, that was the same case with me as far as the CCs were concerned. In my case Lexus MK, to my surprise, came up with vey good quote for the Goodyears. And it was only by chance that I called them. However a local tyre supplier I’d used before also came up with a good price and in addition they were agents for the Alloygator Rim Protectors. So a deal was done and it’s a combination I’ve been very satisfied with. Every little scuff on an Alloygator just makes me think of the alloy rim repair I’ve just saved! PS. I have no connection with Alloygator!!!

I’m sure you will be very pleased with the Michelins. I was planning them for my IS250 but discovered that my model had the 18” rims and two different tyre sizes fore and aft - of which Michelin only made one. Fortunately Goodyear had just launched the Asymmetric 5 which also had very good all-weather performance, so they got my cash instead. The Michelins replaced, if I recall correctly, Yokos on our 4WD Suzuki SX4 and have proved to be far superior in every respect. Incidentally, if you can shop at Costco they are Michelin dealers and often have offers on them.

I think it may depend on what you define as ‘rim protection’! The Michelin CCs I fitted to our 4x4 Suzuki didn’t have any, but Michelin changed the wall profile in 2018 and gradually rolled it out across the range of tyre sizes. The new profile may not yet be available in all sizes. But while the new profile certainly offers more rim protection than the previous shape, it doesn’t compare with the more substantial rim protection of, say, the Goodyear’s I fitted to the Lexus. So, kiss a kerb with the latest CCs and I think you’ll be very lucky to get away without actually marking the rim. In fact the Michelin website makes no mention of rim protection at all. The only significant difference between CC and CC+ appears to be the compound mix. A comprehensive review has been carried out on www.tyrereviews.com That said, these Michelin Cross Climates are certainly one of the best all-weather tyres on the market. If you want more effective rim protection, as I did for the low profile alloys on my Lexus, fit Alloygaters.

I was interested to read these comments, especially as you’re in a position to compare the 250 with the 300. My 250 was also shod with 18” wheels but I can’t convince myself that the extra ride comfort will justify the cost of buying new rims and tyres. I too tried the paddle shift as a novelty when I first had the car. But soon decided that at my age I rather liked having the gears changed for me. On a very few occasions I have tried the Sports mode, which does seem a tad quicker, but not for the purpose suggested by the (excellent) Lexus sales guy. He suggested I select it if I had to, say, exit a junction quickly to pull out into traffic. At the time I thought that if exiting was that marginal I probably wouldn’t try it at all!

Thanks...but of course I didn't do any of the hard work! To be fair, the car was a great buy in the first place. (Plaudits to Lexus MK). I've had it three years and only doubled the mileage in that time. I also took shots of the engine bay and the interior, but haven't managed to load them. But they also look in as-new condition. So what with the coatings having a claimed life of 8 - 10 years, there's a real chance the car will outlast me! Which will make it a good buy for somebody.

Well if I haven't made another bog of inserting them, I hope they don't disappoint! Of course the purpose of all these systems - glass coating or film wrap - is preservation as much as shine, without the requirement of constant reapplication. Which is where they score over traditional waxes. And as I said, after Ryan's hard work, the white seems to be not just glossier, but whiter. In that respect, I think I can describe the overall condition as 'Showroom'. Which after 6 years and 30K miles suits me fine!

As it happens, Ryan was due to completely wrap the next client car which was already waiting outside. He uses XPEL Ultimate Plus Paint Protection Film - which suggests it's pretty good! In fact it's claimed to be superior to glass coatings in that it's a high gloss finish that resists the effects of stone chips, scratches, scuffs and swirling. Apparently if it ever needs any attention, it is simply heated and reforms to its original surface. As well as a gloss finish, it also comes in matt and with a 10 year warranty. I imagine the price reflects this superior product. You can see more on his website: huntsmiths.co.uk

I have now collected my IS250 from the Automotive Detailer (I’ll call him Ryan, as that is his name). So, was it worth it? (Dramatic Pause) (Quick Cuts to Anxious Faces) Yes, it was! (Collective Sighs of Relief and Hi-Fiving!) It’s not just that the car has come back looking clean and shiny. For some reason I had got it into my head that it was Pearl White. Turns out it was Arctic White – and now looks it. Ryan thought it was in good condition anyway for a car that had done 30K, but has now eliminated what little swirling there was. So I would venture to say that it is, if anything, now looking better than when I bought it from the Dealer three years ago. And it looked pretty good then! Having said that, I’m sure a good waxer could match the actual shine. The difference with these glass coatings is that they don’t have to be regularly removed and renewed. They also protect the paint surface in ways that waxes can’t. As an additional hard coating over the paint, they help to prevent scratching, swirls and discolouration. Unlike waxes, the combination of Modesta Glass Coatings is claimed to have an 8-10 year life, depending on usage. I’m also pleased with how the wheels have turned out. The combination of alloys and low profile tyres was not an ideal choice for pot-holed country lanes. But the Alloygators served well to protect the rims and the baked-on ceramic coating has now refreshed the alloys and will help to protect against road grit. So, any downsides? Well...No more easy-option car washes! From now on it’s a regime of proprietary shampoos with the pressure washer and a wipe over with special formula every five washes or so. The dirt will, I’m assured, simply wash off the glass surface. Well, we shall see. It certainly does so in the videos! I attach some shots, I hope, which will give some idea of the results. For me it’s the two shots by the rear wheel arches that best illustrate the changes. I’m not sure if it will be apparent, but there is a distinct colour improvement, for one thing. Also note the before shot showing the film panels by the rear wheels. Apparently some Lexus owners remove these, but as Ryan pointed out, Lexus put them on for a purpose. However, he did say that Lexus also put the bare minimum on, so he slightly enlarged the replacements. And they’re much harder to see with the new coatings on. My apologies if this is a longer posting than usual. But I hope it might be helpful if anyone else is contemplating investing in this kind of car protection. As it is, I can certainly recommend Huntsmiths Detailing if you’re anywhere near Brackley in Northamptonshire. PS: The other images I have appear too big to load. I'll have to reduce them in size if anyone really wants to see more!

Another fine make. Being an old’un myself, the technology built in to these systems amazes me. I take it that you’ve chosen to locate the rear camera on the front screen facing inwards. It certainly simplifies the wiring and I presume also gives you a recording of what your passengers are getting up to - which must improve their behaviour! My rear camera is located on the rear window, which sometimes produces an interesting reaction. I’ve watched cars committing risky overtakes in order to race up to my rear bumper. But instead of racing past, they then drop back rather quickly! My guess is they’ve got close enough to spot the camera - but by then it’s too late! Incidentally I think having a camera has improved my driving too. I’m very aware that my actions are also being recorded

https://blackvue.com/product/blackvue-power-magic-pro-vehicle-battery-discharge-prevention-for-parking-mode/ If it’s permitted on this site, this link should take you to the BlackVue Power Magic page which will give you the technical details. I see Vladimir’s note about Nextbase, but I can only speak for BlackVue cameras. I’ve had them for over ten years, with the same fitted Power Kit, and never had a problem. Basically it’s connected to a terminal in the fuse box that’s live when the ignition is off. It provides enough power to the camera to keep the sensors active. If the camera detects movement in front of it, or impact, the recording mode is activated. The camera will return to standby mode once the sensors are no longer activated, or the set recording time ends. Should the Power Magic detect that the car battery has reached the minimum preset voltage level, it switches off the camera to stop any further drain. How long that might take, the tech details might give you that information. But I’ve left the camera switched on when parked overnight and never had a problem. I should add that you can switch the Power Magic completely off if you choose so that the camera is not even in standby mode. Whether it would work with other cameras I don’t know. Possibly a BlackVue dealer could advise. If Nextbase cameras are unpowered when the ignition is off, then I presume they can’t record parking incidents, unless they have a battery backup. Incidentally BlackVue also do a battery power pack as an alternative to the car battery system. BTW: My apologies if the typography looks a bit naff!

I would recommend a permanent connection. Apart from avoiding the possibility of losing camera power in some incident, it also keeps the camera powered up when the ignition is off and you’re parked up having a relaxing lunch and some idiot backs into your car in the underground car park. Or similar! My camera is a BlackVue and they supply an accessory that connects to a live feed with the ignition off. You can set the battery voltage so that it won’t drain the battery. I expect other systems are available.

Thank you Bilal. My wife did decide that we weren’t going to use Motorways again, but she eventually got over that. But she probably had the worst of it as her window smashed and she had a close-up view of an Iveco cab trying to get inside the car! But an interesting similarity with your own incident is that in both cases our dashcam footage proved very useful. Since then I’ve taken every opportunity to urge other drivers to invest in one. Or even two. I’m sure that eventually all car makers will fit them as standard.

As you say, Bilal, very similar, right down to the undeploying air bags. Mind you, a more frightening experience than ours. At least our lad knew what he’d done. He saw the Honda and stopped. The saloon driver must have wondered what else he could do to attract the other driver’s attention. I wonder if he sounded the horn?

Yes, I think you’ve nailed it there Linas. At least we didn’t test them by ending upside down!

On the positive side, John, wife and I both walked away. Honda had discontinued the Accord so I popped in to Lexus and saw the IS250. The other driver’s Insurers paid out full market value, so I bought the Lexus. All in all - a result!

I was interested to read this as I acquired my Lexus because an Iveco truck had written off my Honda Accord on the M5. It changed lanes and hit my near side rear wheel arch in doing so, spinning the Honda in front of the cab and pushing us along the M5 for about seven seconds. The HGV was doing about 50mph. Every nearside body panel was damaged, internal damage to suspension and battery compartment, and bonnet and boot lids also apparently had to be replaced. And yet, none of the air bags deployed! I can only presume it was because this was a spinning force rather than more of a fore and aft impact. Or maybe there’s another reason!