LenT

I am impressed with the standard of your hearing, James. 😊 Of what material was this receipt constructed?

Or could it be due to the density of the driver?

Fair enough, Rayaans. Personally, I’ve always been of the opinion that if someone hits my car it is not possible to have too much evidence of it. I would also point out that my dashcam has a Parking Mode, so that being rear-ended - if you’ll pardon the phrase - while stationary in a car park, will still be recorded and available as evidence, long after the culprit has fled the scene, .I have also recorded a few instances of a car recklessly overtaking vehicles behind me, getting up to my rear and I’m expecting a similar manoeuvre, when they suddenly drop way back. Presumably having spotted the rear camera - but by then it’s too late. The point being that if that driver had overtaken and was then later involved in an accident, that record would have been vital evidence.

How infuriating, Rayaan. And it’s clearly been maintained in excellent condition. I see that your dashcam has recorded the fact that you are stationary at the moment of impact. Did you actually have a rear camera as well? If not, it may be worth adding one when you have the car repaired. I’ve found mine to every useful - and entertaining!

I was just ‘cruising’ the threads and came across one…too late! It had just been closed by the estimable Colin Barber. Now I’ll never know what happened to Wallies One to Eleven. ☹️

Is this by choice, Maurice? How would you feel if you returned to the car after a shopping break only to find a headlight stoved in? Does the camera not have a ‘Parking Mode‘? I would have thought that it would. After all, cars are just as likely to be damaged when stationary as when moving. In ‘Parking Mode’ the camera consumes almost negligible current but remains capable of motion detection and will record activity in front - or behind - as well as impacts. I have a BlackVue and this video details how it protects the car even when the ignition is off. I’m sure other makes have similar systems.

Infuriating that you’ve been placed in this position through someone else’s carelessness. But better than discovering it on a rainy night at an isolated location! Is Lexus replacing this in exchange for the incorrect key? Or are they proposing to charge you on the basis that they were not responsible for the loss of your original? Some customer goodwill discount might be appropriate here.

I suppose every little helps.

I have a BlacKVue system and it is possible for me to format the SD Card in situ. It actually has a ‘format’ button for the purpose. However, it’s not something I have ever done because I am content to remove the Card and do it on my PC, which I feel gives me more control and the opportunity to investigate the video files first and so save any of interest. Doing it in camera means that, as far as the video files are concerned, when they’re gone, they’re gone! Of. course, other cameras may differ… Incidentally, I carry a spare, formatted card on me with which I replace the card I remove. I don’t want to leave the system inoperable merely because I’ve forgotten to replace the Card. I did the same on the one occasion when hit by an HGV, so as to preserve the evidence - which proved to be a very wise move

I was wondering why this was the recommendation. Counter intuitive though it may sound, the usual recommendation is that the newer tyres go on the rear. For example, this is a quote from Uniroyal: If you replace old tyres with new tyres and this does not apply to the whole set, there comes the question: Do you fit the new tyres at the front or back? Regardless of the drive type, we recommend not fitting the better tyres at the front, but always fitting them at the back. The reason is simple: The rear axle ensures the tracking stability of a vehicle. This is a more technical explanation dealing with understeer and oversteer: https://kumhotyre.co.uk/kumho-news/should-you-fit-new-tyres-to-the-front-or-rear/

Loose talk about a loose subframe! That’s a bit worrying! What happens if you accelerate hard from a slow speed? Wear in the suspension or axle mounts might produce an excessive degree of ‘torque steer’. I once had a big Alfa which - unbeknownst to myself - had an acute case of rust around the suspension mounts, allowing the rear axle to flex under acceleration and it produced just this effect. You mention alignment. Has the car been involved in a shunt that might have slightly distorted the axle locations? Perhaps it might be worth an independent check?

Are you suggesting that these are asymmetric tyres, for example, that have been incorrectly fitted? Can’t imagine any professional operation making that sort of error - but I suppose it could produce that ‘pulling’ effect!

Is there a camber on the road? You say you have new tyres, but has anyone checked that the pressures are correct and identical? Is the steering wheel perfectly aligned on the steering column? Are the nearside discs generating more friction? Are you left handed and/or have a dominant left eye? Is the seat or the pedals slightly offset?

Possibly not such a good idea, Tony. It’s generally recommended that the SD Card should be formatted at least once a month in normal use. A lot of overwriting of files goes on as the Card fills up. This can introduce errors into the files which can become a problem as they accumulate. Regular reformatting eliminates these errors. Obviously, if you have anything recorded that you wish to save, then first copy it onto a PC or some other suitable memory device.

Do you have a snow foam gun? If not - and especially if this is a common occurrence - it might be worth considering as the foam is applied to a dry car and lifts surface dust, sand and such like off the paint work before itself being washed off. Avoids a lot of potential scratches.

Yep, that looks like it. Well tracked down.

It’s called a SKEY Air Compressor which I bought off Amazon some time ago. It works extremely well. Unfortunately it doesn’t appear to be available at the moment but virtually identical inflators are. I wouldn’t be at all surprised to learn that they all originate from the same factory in China! Alternatively, I’ve seen good reports on Digital Inflators from Halfords, the AA, Michelin…you’re spoilt for choice.

Many thanks, Jeff, for taking the time to give such a detailed reply. For what it's worth, that's pretty much all I can contribute on TPMS. I'll be fascinated to know what the problem really was! I'm impressed. I get my exercise by walking from wheel to wheel with my Digital Tyre Inflator. One last thought: Are your dust caps metal or plastic? Metal has an unfortunate tendency to corrode onto the valve stem, which then snaps off when an attempt is made to remove it. I speak from bitter experience!

At the risk of exposing my further levels of ignorance, a couple of the more obvious questions occur to me! My TPMS warning was only a light, not a message as well. Did you actually get an additional message? Although after 15 years battery failure would hardly be a surprise - and forgive me for asking this - but are the tyre pressures correct? My system was once activated by a drop in pressure caused by a very cold morning. A low pressure reading would at least indicate the problem wheel/s. Low pressure could be caused by a leaking valve. or a damaged wheel or tyre. You also mention that the tyres are new. How long after fitting the new tyres did this TPMS problem occur? It’s possible that one has not located correctly on the rim - especially if the wheels are also old. It’s also possible that the TPMS needs resetting after the fitting of new tyres. That was the case when I had one tyre replaced. I agree with you that a working TPMS is well worth having. But my personal experience is that a good tyre retailer has more expertise in this area and might offer a better price then a Dealer, repair shop or Indie. Whether they would fit your own valves is a question to be asked.

Thank you for those kind words, John. But I think you may be confusing me with the late Gilbert Harding. 😊

The batteries are sealed inside the body of the valve unit, so I doubt that they can be disturbed. There’s no reason to touch the sensor body while changing the tyres, although I suppose it’s conceivable that a careless fitter might have caused some contact. But when I had a TPMS valve damaged (the valve stem was broken off!) my local tyre retailer fitted and programmed an OEM replacement for £65 - if that’s a guide!

TPMS valve batteries can be replaced, apparently. But it’s hideously involved. They normally last up to ten years, so you’ve done well. I would have thought that before you buy any, it would be worth checking with your Indie that they can program the valves to your system. Another point to consider is the state of your tyres. If they need replacing, now would be a good time. Then you get both items replaced in one operation. Which raises a final point: you might be better off getting an estimate from a good tyre retailer who can supply both the valves and, if required, the tyres.

Just curious, Robin. What is it that you have against readily available products by such as Bosch, Michelin, Lucas et al? I think my last set were Bosch, ordered over the interweb. I’ve never had a problem, so is it model-related?

Undoubtedly so. But manufacturers have shown the ability to cooperate and standardise components in many industries, such as electronics. Malc has described just such a system for EVs with regard to battery exchange. If it encourages the uptake of EVs it will probably find favour in the auto industry.

I suppose there could be reasons why the EV was parked at a charger and not plugged in. For example, the charger may be out of action. We have a new Sainsbury store with a short row of charging bays and they are often vacant for that reason. But the situation you describe - namely one EV monopolising a charger for hours - I see as almost inevitable. Until there might be a battery replacement system - rather like exchanging your empty gas cylinder for a full one - it’s never going to be a speedy process. And personally I wouldn’t even contemplate an EV unless I had a charger at home. Of course, stores such as Tesco offering free charging are only going to exacerbate the problem. If they want to provide it as a customer service, then they could use their Loyalty Card system to activate the charger. That would restrict it to Tesco customers and even identify the user. Or are they doing that already?