LenT

Really?! Well, that sales guy certainly saw me coming! So it really doesn’t stand for Len’s EXclusive and Unique Supercar…

I think that rather depends on the second figure in the equation - the aspect ratio which determines the height. My IS wears 225/40 on the front and 255/35 on the rear - both on 18” wheels. The second figure is the height of the tyre expressed as a percentage of the full tyre width. So the rear wider tyres have a lower percentage which results in the two tyres having exactly the same height. This ensures that the rolling radius remains unchanged. Totally agree. 3mm is my limit - and it’s a depth below which most tyre manufacturers claim performance deteriorates rapidly. Generally, cheap tyres are cheap for a reason. However, some ‘budget’ tyres are cheaper for different reasons. Namely, they are made by major tyre brands - often using the same compounds and benefitting from the same technology - but they are made in a limited number of the most popular sizes, thus reducing production costs. They don’t aspire to being ‘performance’ tyres but are perfectly acceptable for most drivers. If cost is a real consideration, they can be worth seeking out.

As has been pointed out, disconnecting the power supply can have a downside. But the concept of a ‘Kill Switch’ is very appealing - and something I fitted years ago to Lotus Elan convertible. Rather than isolating the battery, I have mentioned in other threads an ingenious solution which involves isolating the fuel pump. This means that if the thief manages to start the engine, it will simply churn away, gradually flattening the battery. Few thieves are going to stick around to run a diagnostics check. Or call the AA! It’s a DIY job and I’ll post the link again if anyone’s interested.

My recollection of buying a new car was that the first service was complementary anyway. Is this no longer the case? It must be very disappointing for you, Alan, that what should be a very pleasant experience - and one you may have waited months to fulfil - should be soured by such petty treatment. It doesn’t bode well for future customer / dealer relations! Or future sales, for that matter.

Why not Chris? Whose boat is it that you think you’re going to rock? What it comes down to is that you’ve purchased a new Lexus. However you got it, Lexus didn’t sell it at a loss! If items such as a ‘proper’ Manual are no longer being supplied, then that’s only going to change if boats are vigorously rocked. Yes, you can download digital versions - and they can be very useful. But mine came with two Manuals totalling over 1100 pages and they have proved to be invaluable. In any case, Chris, not even having a Service Record may well turn out to be an even more serious problem. With no apparent way to officially record the service and maintenance schedule, that could cost you thousands in the future. Unless there’s a real company explanation, I’d be inclined to get back to Lexus for an explanation. How hard is it to chuck hardcopies in to the glove box at the end of the assembly line?

I have the 18” staggered setup and I’m quite happy with the Lexus tyre sizes. But like others here, I have fitted the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric tyres mainly because my priority is overall wet road performance. I think they have certainly delivered in that respect. In considering your actual tyre choice, I would certainly recommend looking at the latest Asymmetric 6 version. https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Goodyear/Eagle-F1-Asymmetric-6.htm

My IS250 also has paddle shifts. But I was planning to lock it across the middle spoke of the wheel which doesn’t have paddles. Provided it’s long enough, that should severely restrict the movement of the wheel wherever that spoke ends up.

I think you’ve almost talked me in to it, Ron! I agree with you about the Stoplock Pro. As I previously mentioned, I’ve had a couple of Diskloks in the past (and still have one in the garage) and I think they are the gold standard in steering wheel locks. But they are cumbersome to store and use. And the Milenco does pass official tests as an effective deterrent. And from the weight of it, some unofficial tests as a practical deterrent! There’s a caravan retailer near me listed as a stockist. I might just venture out and see if they have the latest version….

Fair enough, Carl. Others may wish to skip this bit! I don’t think you’ve mentioned the colour of your car. I like white cars and ceramics certainly produce a very shiny finish. But for eye-popping effects, you need reds, blues, greens, yellow, orange…well, you get the picture! To give you some idea, have a look at my guy’s website. https://www.huntsmiths.co.uk Apart from more details on Modesta products, he’s got examples of his work on Facebook and Instagram - which I don’t do! But I believe you’ll see many shining examples of exotic weekend toys there. (I’m told mine’s there too!) PS. If the alloy wheels look odd, it’s because I have Alloygator rim protectors fitted.

It did, Carl! 🙁 And well researched. From memory I think it was about £1600 for the full Detailing treatment which was scheduled for three days and included interior, exterior and the wheels. If I had thought it was only good for 12 months it would not have happened! I can post some shots taken during the process if that might interest you?

I’ll let you be the judge, Carl. The mark was the size of my little finger nail about halfway up the crease on the wing. They resprayed that area and back to the door panel (ie not the whole wing) with a three coat finish. When I got home, I wiped it over with a Modesta maintenance product that you apply to a dry surface - normally after a wash. This restored the shine to match the rest of the panel and the door - to my aged eyes anyway!

It really depends on the size and speed of the stone! A properly applied ceramic finish is going to provide better protection than a standard paint finish. But it’s not claimed to be chip proof. The only tiny chips I have are about three pin pricks on very front of the car. The mark over the wheel arch I had repaired was caused by the wind blowing a van door that had parked too close - so that’s significant force. If you want more protection against chipping, then Paint Protection Film is the next step up. As opposed to paint or ceramic, it also has a degree of self-healing. But I reiterate - its value to you all depends on how long you plan to keep the car and how much you’re prepared to spend.

They may say that! I had mine done nearly three years ago with Modesta products. A couple of weeks ago I had a good local body shop repair a small mark caused by a car door blowing open and they remarked on the excellence of the finish. The Modesta product used does claim up to ten years before it needs reapplication - with the provisos I listed. And my Detailer was talking about at least six years before he would expect to see the car again. Pity he’s over here in Northamptonshire! If it helps, I just stepped outside and took this shot. It must be about six weeks since the car was last washed - and I used a mobile service for the very first time. I’d be inclined to get a third opinion!

Hello Steve. I too was disappointed with the OEM bulbs on my IS250 so I replaced them with the OSRAM Night Breaker Laser. We have unlit country lanes here too and they have proved to be considerably superior. As a bonus, they even scared any kangaroos away. I’m not sure how they might compare to LED, but they have the distinct advantage that being HB3 fitting they should be a direct replacement. https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/hb3-9005-osram-night-breaker-laser-next-generation.html This site might also list a similar OSRAM H11 replacement. I hope this helps. 😊

My Detailer used a product called Modesta, but I don’t know if any of the many Detailers around Peterborough are Agents for it. Very popular in US and claims up to a 10 year life for its top products. Of course, all such claims depend on usage and maintenance.. With such a wide choice, I’d be inclined to visit a few with the car and see what they offer. My guy eventually took three days over it as the finish is finally baked on. I suspect that the interior would not need much attention, but you might be surprised at the paint flaws a good Detailer might identify on a brand new finish! They should also tell you about the maintenance regime each finish may require - starting with no more trips to the local Car Wash or the Quick Wash merchants in the supermarket car parks! But if you’re interested in car maintenance and fancy doing your own snow foam washing, then it’s very easy to maintain a superb ceramic finish. It’s far more effective than even more regular waxing would be!

The next thing I would do, if you’re planning to keep it for some years, is take it straight to a good Detailer for a high quality ceramic finish. Possibly even Paint Protection Film applied to the front to give added protection against stone chips. I appreciate that it’s very easy to spend someone else’s money, but it’s a small additional cost relative to your initial spend and the benefits accrue over the years. And the car is never going to be in a better state for a Detailer to work on. PS. Ron, I like the look of the Milenco and you’re almost persuading me except, as I’ve mentioned before, would anyone really target a seven year-old car?

Drat!! ’off eBay’ …obviously! Another tipping mistook!

I think the only realistic way of avoiding this is to take it to a Detailer and have Paint Protection Film applied. When I had my car Detailed I did consider having the front wrapped, but decided that my mileage was so low that it might not justify it. Since then, the very few marks can be rendered invisible with touch-up paint. But the results of PPF that I’ve seen since are so impressive that I might be tempted if the opportunity arose again!

You don’t mention one important factor - your budget. Personally, I would go for the latest version of the IS250 that you can find. Then all the other usual caveats apply. So look for a full Dealer service record and check the history for any repairs. Regular, competent maintenance is more important than actual mileage - or even the specific year or trim. I would only buy from a recognised and established Lexus / Toyota dealer, or cars listed on Autotrader. Some people buy of eBay, apparently!! 🙁

These days that suits me just fine, Kam. In any case, MrsT is apt to keep telling me to slow down - and that’s just in our Drive!

This is not something I’ve ever used, Kevin, but I’m sure someone will come along with some definitive advice. Having said that….my thoughts would be that the £2K initial deposit contribution formed part of the original Contract offer by Lexus and was a factor in persuading you to proceed with the purchase. Unless the Contract Offer was time limited or didn’t apply to the second car - after all, you cancelled the first car because you felt the delay was unacceptable - then I would have thought it should still apply. In that case I see no reason why you should not simply contact Lexus to confirm that it still applies. You could make the point that the second car was delivered in only four months from the initial Order whereas there was not even a fulfilment date for the original Order. But first I would scrutinise the Order for the second car to see what conditions have been applied. It might well be regarded as a new Contract and there may be no mention of an Offer. In which case, if this wasn’t made clear at the time, then you might point that out and suggest that you therefore had no reason to suppose that the original Contract conditions didn’t still apply. As I say, hopefully someone who has been through this with Lexus might come up with better advice! In the meantime, not knowing how familiar you are with the detail of PCP, as it’s your first experience, I thought this article from Experian might be useful. https://www.experian.co.uk/consumer/car-finance/guides/personal-contract-purchase.html

Congratulations Kevin! There’ll be quite a few ES enthusiasts here eager to know what you think of it. Sounds like the story of your ordering was something of a saga. Hopefully, your collection went smoothly and you’re now enjoying your new Lexus. Photographs are always well received. 😊

An interesting point…if anyone could find it! On the other hand, if you install an anti-theft system such as the Ghost - a popular addition to a new car which links into the Canbus - it has an even more significant effect. Does that effect the warranty? On the positive side, would it reduce the Insurance? Unfortunately, these are questions above my pay grade. 😊

Here’s another - or additional - option depending on how mechanically inclined you are. Many years ago I fitted a Kill Switch to the low tension lead of my two seat convertible. This is a modern and ingenious version of that which isolates the fuel pump. So if the thief defeats your steering lock and manages to start the engine, it will just churn over impotently. It’s a low cost DIY job if you are able to do it - or get an auto electrician to do it for you.

There have been a few threads recently on steering wheel locks - and similar systems. Maybe worth seeking out? Are they worth having? Well that probably depends on the age of the car and where it’s located. As a visible deterrent they can be very effective against the casual thief. Personally, I have had a couple of Diskloks in the past. They are probably the gold standard - often defeating serious, mechanised attempts to defeat them. But they are large, a bit cumbersome, and can be awkward to store when not in use. But faced with one, it would probably be easier to tow the car away! Apart from the Disklok, the Milenco has had very good reviews. The latest version has additional pads to prevent the lock marking soft-rimmed steering wheels. I’m tempted myself - except I’m not convinced that an eight year-old IS250 is on anyone’s ‘to nick’ list. 😊