LenT

Well, if that’s what you like doing - and you’re able to invest in two sets of premium tyres - then there’s probably no reason to change your habit. But if your driving style is such that you’re not inclined to test the performance limits of a tyre - and the weather conditions are not extreme - then you should certainly consider the Michelin CrossClimate 2. https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/tyres/michelin-crossclimate-2

A suggestion I’ve made a couple of times - which I believe achieves this - is to fit a ‘Kill Switch’. When I had a Lotus Elan it was a simple switch that broke the low tension lead to the distributor. I don’t know if this can be done with modern ignition systems. But what I have seen is a ‘Kill Switch’ to the fuel pump. This achieves the same effect, in that the engine will churn over but fail to fire up. I can’t imagine that attacking the Canbus will reveal this cause - but I may be wrong! Short of running through a spark/fuel diagnostic analysis - or calling out the AA - I can’t imagine the average chummy hanging around to sort out the problem! This one video installation- others are available…. .

This is information from the Michelin website. https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/change-tyres/tyre-repair The gist appears to be that only small punctures - a nail in the centre tread causing a slow leak, for example - might be repaired. And then only by removing the tyre and inserting a mushroom plug from the inside. Deflated tyres and deflated Run Flats may all suffer potential sidewall damage that is not visible, which is why replacement is considered the only option. I think the problem is that Run Flat is a misnomer. It only means that the tyre wall is sufficiently reinforced to allow continued slow progress to a place of safety or replacement. Incidentally, this Michelin page also makes the point that RFs should be matched to a suitable rim.

Lexus has not made that an easy problem to solve! I’m not familiar with the NX450 but I take it that there’s nowhere to store a SpaceSaver - which would be the best option. You can certainly buy a magic gloop inflatable kit as an accessory, but be aware that they have their limitations. If the damage is more of a rip than a hole - especially in the sidewall - or the problem is a damaged valve, then they have limited, or no, effect. If it’s to deal with a small penetration - a small nail, for example - that you would hope to get repaired, you’ll find most repairers won’t touch it. They feel that the time and effort taken to remove the sealant isn’t cost effective. Apart from which they may say that running the tyre deflated could have damaged its structure and that will be impossible for them to detect. The option I would consider is to subscribe to a national motoring organisation, have a cell phone on you and download the ‘What three words ‘ app. That way you’ll be able to give them your precise location - accurate to one square metre!

You’re quite right, Carl. I was thinking of the original versions, of which I still have one example. Not for us yer fancy wheel protector and yer smart carry bag! But that’s progress! 😊

I would agree. I’ve had a couple and as I recall it’s just a matter of dropping it over the steering wheel and turning the key. Importantly, removal was just as easy. I’m now using a Milenco - although I do find it a little more difficult. However, it passed the same 5-minute resistance test and I always found the Disklok more awkward to store in the car simply because of its size. But if that’s not a problem, then I doubt there’s a simpler, more secure steering wheel lock on the market.

A simple extra precaution that I also used to do as a lad. I still do even if simply taking a wheel off. After all, it has to go somewhere - might as well be somewhere useful!.

Any chance that the criminals might have been caught on your neighbours’ CCTV or doorbell cameras while cruising the village?

Excellent, Neil. Upping your security level like this not only protects your car but your House as well. Hopefully, it means potential thieves go for easier pickings next door! Do your Insurers recognise this by way of reduced Premiums?

That’s excellent, Antony. Hopefully, the Police have a copy to examine as evidence. As they should know, voice prints are as individual as fingerprints - even if attempts are made to disguise their voice. That they didn’t spot the dashcam is pretty amateurish so there’s always a chance they made other errors that may lead to their identification. It’s not uncommon for thieves to wait for a stolen car to be replaced and then target the replacement, on the basis that nothing else will have changed to make it more secure. Clearly you would be beyond infuriated if events just repeated themselves. But it sounds like the car is repairable and your Insurers will deal with this. Unfortunately, they may increase your Premium despite the fact that your only fault was to buy a desirable car. And your sensible use of a Location App meant that they were not paying out for a total loss. I suppose you could ask them to detail what other security measures you could have taken!

So to be fair, it sounds like the Police - aided by the Location App - did all that could be expected. Parking a stolen car nearby is the usual method of discovering if it has a Tracker fitted. Fair enough. But what car of the same quality would you choose - and why do you think it will be less vulnerable to theft?

Just curious, Neil. I had two new Hondas prior to the Lexus (a Prelude and an Accord, in case you were about to ask!) As far as I’m aware, no attempt was ever made to steal them. Are you suggesting that your preference now for Honda is because they are less attractive to thieves or technically harder to steal? Or possibly both? What is it about Honda that makes you confident that they are less vulnerable than a Lexus to theft?

Surely in most circumstances this is the only sensible way to use a trolley jack! Omit the axle stands only if you’re in a hurry to cut the catalytic converter out.

A bit extreme… but I had a sack of coal in the boot of my first car - a Ford Anglia - which dramatically improved its performance in snow. Maybe it’s a Ford thing? Mind you, whether any improvement in road holding compensates for the raised Centre of Gravity is a moot point. 🤔 I wonder what our Traffic Police might have made of it?

And of course professional Detailers use infrared heaters to bake the ceramic coating, which gives a much harder surface.

I’ll have to take your word for it, James, as the link doesn’t seem to open. Or is it just me? 😥🤔

A CTEC trickle charger comes with leads that are permanently connected to the battery posts, specifically so that they can be plugged in to the charger without having to remove the battery cables. The CTEK has safety systems that ensure the battery cannot be overcharged. You don’t have to disconnect either of the battery cables.

If it’s a product such as Supaguard it should come with some kind of Warranty, which will normally be in the car’s Info Pack. As for deciding if it’s actually there …well, Supaguard claims that it produces a beading effect if you pour water onto the bonnet. Frankly, if you want to invest in really effective paint protection that could last up to ten years, then a good quality ceramic finish is the way to go. Check out a local Detailer. The newer the car, the less prep work they require - which is why some new owners take their cars straight to a Detailer for treatment.

Is it a Hillman Hunter? 🤔

Did you install the batteries yourself Roger? Might be worth checking that you put them in the right way up. But in any case, does the key remove from the fob? There maybe a section on the narrow edge - in line with the key- that you press in while pulling the key. It should slide out and you can then use the key to unlock the door. If you then press the Lexus logo of the key fob on to the starter button, it should start the car.

Personally, I preferred the Volvo Estate…

And what non-Lexus car is most likely to be owned by a nonUK poster called ‘The Swedish Guy’? SAAB 93?

The nature of the wear can give some clues as to the cause. Under or over inflation will increase wear rates, as will incorrect tracking. So it maybe worthwhile having the tracking checked when you buy your new rears.

Have one on me.

A very interesting account, Brent, and a good demonstration of how Run Flats and the TPMS combined to identify the slow leak and keep you mobile until it could be repaired. As you say, these are trade-offs against the reportedly noisier and firmer ride of RFs. It maybe that you were also fortunate that it was a rear tyre so the handling and steering were less affected than might have otherwise been the case. Without the TPMS - and with the firmer sidewalls of the RFs - the loss of pressure might not have been so visibly obvious that it would alert you to the slow leak in the first place. Occasionally I see accounts from Posters who find the warnings from the TPMS irritating and difficult to resolve and ask about disabling it. I think your experience is a very good example of how that’s not such a good idea!