Trosini

2 minutes ago, NemesisUK said:

Have you changed the battery in the fob?

Yes, I have done all the basic troubleshooting straight away both the Battery fob and the 12v were fully charged and new.

On 2/28/2023 at 10:06 PM, Steven Lockey said:

Hmmm, odd.

The high voltage circuit shouldn't even try and power on if you just press the power button without pressing the brake.
That suggests the issue isn't with the hybrid system. Even if that is completely dead, you should be able to turn the car
on, just not actually start the engine or get it into ready mode. 

Kinda suggests you might have a computer or wiring issue.

Odd indeed.

EDIT: Found text logs of our troubleshooting.

This was the first thing we found:

All of the pins were intact, but the orange connector to the orange plug had signs of charcoal.

EDIT: I had a few sparks from this black cable upon plugging it all back in.

Luckily I was wearing HV gloves.

The actual pictures are from google, as we didn't take pictures of any of the troubleshooting.

The bus bars and connectors are intact and showing correct voltage in series.

We tried changing wiring frame harness #2, that didn't do anything.

On 2/28/2023 at 11:13 PM, Herbie said:

There's two functions of the key fob. One is the central locking and the other is the immobiliser, so when you say that the car doesn't register the fob, what exactly do you mean?

I know from memory that P0AFA is Hybrid System Voltage Low, so check that you've connected the voltage sensor back up correctly. Also check that the Service Plug Grip is replaced correctly.

You say you managed to scan it "with proper software" - was that Techstream? As far as I know, Techstream is the only one that gives the sub-codes as well as the main codes and this is very important. If you look at the screendump below, you'll see that P3004 covers six different problems and only the sub-codes differentiate them for you.

By not registering the fob, I mean that I can not start the car or unlock the steering lock with the key, as when I am hovering the key above the start button, there's no response.

Which voltage senser are you referring to?

Yes, that was scanned with Techstream and the codes provided were accurate representation of the car's short, but upcoming future...

On 3/1/2023 at 7:19 AM, NemesisUK said:

What happens (if anything) if you hold the Lexus emblem side of the key fob against the face of the Power button?

Nothing at all, I'm afraid.

I have spoken to some other enthusiasts and their suggestion was that it's likely related to bus bars and connectors, but our troubleshooting suggested that those were fine, albeit not perfect as the copper bus bars have seen some use.

Hi all

I have a 06 GS450h, that doesn't run or powers on.

It had a few cells replaced throughout the years, some of it was done by not very reputable service providers, some has been changed by me and it's a bit of a mess.

Last time I had a check hybrid Battery notification, I thought I will change the cells as usual and it will be fine.

When changing the cells, I checked the voltages, the connections and it all seemed to be fine / nothing abnormal.

I started it up and all of the previous error messages were still present, I managed to scan it with proper software and it gave me P0AFA P3004 C1259 C1310 B2243 errors.

Within a minute or two, the car powered off and since then I was never able to power it on.

The car doesn't register the key fob, although the 12v Battery works.

We tried changing the 12v, checking most of the fuses, cables and we are thinking that it's the hv inverter now.

Likely there is a cable shorting somewhere?

Anyone has any tips?

Cheers guys.

Gonna get it fixed.

16 hours ago, ColinBarber said:

It probably isn't enough to cause any issues however if it was my vehicle I'd still take it out.

If the engine burns oil I'd probably leave it but all my Toyota engined vehicles never use oil so you will be overfilled until your next oil change.

Haven't had it for long enough to find out if it burns oil. 

The place that I got it from, had it overfilled when I bought it, based on the dipstick.

13 hours ago, Britprius said:

As Collin above says 200ml is not going to cause a problem, and I would leave it as is. If you wish to do something about it possibly the easiest way to drain a small amount is to undo the oil filter, and then refit. 

John.

This is what interests me, the margin of error that the engine is happy to operate in, hence I was curious what is the general consensus on this topic.

5 hours ago, Mihanicos said:

A higher oil level than the maximum, when the engine is at normal operating temperature, will cause the oil pump to deliver oil at a higher pressure. The decisive factor is the head of the oil and not the amount on the suction side of the pump. This in turn will cause oil to enter the combustion chambers which will be burnt and pass through the catalytic converters.

This in turn, in the long run, will shorten their life and they are expensive to replace and a very difficult job to do.

I would drain from the drain plug when the oil is warm. The drain plug is accessible and you do not have to remove the 7 screws of the shield to access the oil filter.

Chris

Don't have access to getting underneath it, I'm afraid. I am aware of syringes and hoses too, but this is a one off error due to misreading a few forum posts in other forums and don't want to buy items that won't be used often enough.

Obviously an easy option is to get back to where it was done, but trying to figure out whether it's really needed.

3 hours ago, GS300h2014 said:

What does it look like on the dipstick & are you measuring it when the engine is hot or cold?

Still trying to figure out which are smears of the dipstick's travelling through the shaft and which are readings, but at the moment it's parked up on a non flat surface and I won't be using the car today or so, to go and measure it again. I measured it a few minutes after turning the engine off and if my interpretation of readings was correct, it was just about / slightly above the max level.

Although it helps knowing the exact amount of oil poured in, as that was measured precisely to 6.5L 0w30 in this case as I did my research on this forum and decided to stick to 0w30 for this change and reevaluate if needed.

19 minutes ago, Hangie said:

I'm not sure if extra 1cm will change pressure on pump inlet in any significant way.

What I'm sure though is the oil aeration and foaming, which will happen due to crankshaft rotation. As a result you might loose pressure and flow which will end up as a damage. 

Above is of course only valid for wet oil sumps which GS got.

 There is quite big margin before it will happen so 100ml or 200ml shouldn't make any difference. Just make sure your spark plugs/combustion is good and your engine don't add  extra fuel into oil over time 🙂

 

I see, on paper it sounds good and would be pretty convenient to postpone the drainage to my next service, although it's hard to predict whether it will happen sooner, than later.

If you would have to guess, what is that margin in these vehicles? I know that type of question might be frowned upon, but I don't think it has been discussed yet.

Don't get me wrong guys, I love the car and she will be looked after well, but I have a bit of time constraints at the moment and have been tidying it up as much as I could, during the weeks that I had it.

I am not a big diy guy, so taking it a step at a time, but the curiosity of the engine tolerance for error got me on here :) .

Looks like I am at the right place.

Thank you so much.

Hi guys.

I have overpoured oil into my 08 gs450h by around 200ml (6.5L with a filter change), is that an issue that needs solving or I can leave that bit of extra without any repercussions ?

Thank you in advance.