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Tomtit

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Everything posted by Tomtit

  1. Tomtit
    A check for any stored fault codes will narrow down the search.
  2. Tomtit
    After last year's MOT test the tester said that the parking brake was out of balance and ideally needed adjustment. (I had recently replaced the parking brake shoes). This year to adjust it I followed the workshop manual procedure which said to tighten the adjusters until the wheels lock then back off the adjustment by 7 notches. I did this and had my first MOT fail for many years. The tester said the reading was just over 100 when it should have been 200. I brought the car home and set about adjusting again. After 3 episodes of putting on axle stands, wheels off, adjust, wheels back on, take off axle stands and test drive, I was getting nowhere. The parking brake would not hold the car. I adjusted the brakes again until the wheels were locked and the car struggled to move with the parking brake on. For attempt no. 5 I backed off the adjusters by only one tooth. I took the car for a retest and it passed with a reading of 200. Hopefully my experience may help others.
  3. Tomtit
    The wooden steering wheel feels good and makes the interior look more classy. You could buy a used one if you really wanted one.
  4. Tomtit
    When one of my air struts failed I replaced all 4 struts with conventional springs and shock absorbers. The new parts will probably last the life of the car and cost the same price as a single Lexus air strut. I fitted them myself so no labour charges. The entire conversion cost about £1000 a few years ago.
  5. Tomtit
    I use amayama to obtain the part nos. I have also bought parts from them. Usually cheaper than main dealer prices. The only downside is the delay as they are despatched from Japan. In the past I have used amayama to find the part nos. and then obtained the parts more quickly from reputable UK ebay suppliers.
  6. Tomtit
    We usually replace the sensors one at a time as and when when they fail. Are any fault codes present ?
  7. Tomtit
    +1 for Yuasa batteries.
  8. Tomtit
    That is a classy colour.
  9. Tomtit
    That's great news. I am pleased for you. You will enjoy yourself when you get back behind the wheel regularly.
  10. Tomtit
    I fitted KYB parts to my LS430 and cannot fault them.
  11. Tomtit
    I had the same code yesterday. It was a leak at the exhaust flange before the downstream O2 sensor on the nearside.
  12. Tomtit
    Our 3 cars have Yuasa batteries. Never had a problem with them. Look on the GSF website for a 10% discount.
  13. Tomtit
    The number for the screws is 42627-24010. I bought mine from Amayama. 10 screws for £53.30 including postage from Japan.
  14. Tomtit
    I assume the spark plugs are all OK? A coil pack could be breaking down. Could it be down to an inlet manifold leak or an exhaust leak? Just general questions as i am not familiar with the SC400 engine.
  15. Tomtit
    I converted from air to factory spec conventional springs and shock absorbers. Replacing just one air strut would have cost more than the value of the car. There was also the possibility of other air components failing in the future. I used a mix of Toyota and KYB parts so that my insurers did not view it as a modification. I am happy with the ride; it is much more comfortable than my SC430 and my wife's RX300. The new parts will probably last the life of the car.
  16. Tomtit
    http://lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/139145-rx-300-water-ingress/ I hope this works. Never done it before !
  17. Tomtit
    I cured the leaks on my wife's RX300. See my post dated 24 February 2023.
  18. Tomtit
    I have read that leaving the keys in the microwave is also effective.
  19. Tomtit
    The workshop manual does not tell us how to do this job. I had to work it out for myself. Here is what is involved:- 1. Remove air intake, disconnect MAF sensor and remove the complete air box. This will give you room to work. 2. Undo the nuts securing the tensioner. You cannot remove the tensioner yet because the alternator is in the way. 3. Undo the nuts and bolt securing the alternator. You cannot remove the alternator yet because the power steering pump pulley is in the way. 4. Remove the power steering pump pulley. I had to wedge a chisel through one of the pulley holes to hold the pulley. It needed a long bar to undo the nut. The pulley wheel needed a lot of persuasion from behind with a screwdriver before it came free. 5. Move the alternator out of the way. 6. You cannot move the tensioner yet because the plastic cover (shown with a label in the second picture) prevents this. You cannot remove the plastic cover until you have removed the timing belt cover. 7. You can now breathe a sigh of relief and remove the tensioner. You may also ask yourself why you did not get your mechanic to do the job. 8. Reassembly is a reverse of what you have just done. Torque figures for the alternator fixings are 39 Nm and 43 Nm for the P/S pump pulley. 9. There may be an easier way, but I am not a trained mechanic. I just wanted others to benefit from my experience.
  20. Tomtit
    That's a pity. The workshop manual has a list of trouble codes and areas to check.
  21. Tomtit
    Has it left a fault code ?
  22. Tomtit
    For the sake of £24 I took a chance and ordered an aftermarket clock spring. I fitted it today and had to improvise as the centre hole was too small to fit over the steering column. I got there in the end and the horn is working again. Thank you for the information.
  23. Tomtit
    George and Steve. Thank you for the replies. I wanted to check the horn switch because the workshop manual said to do that. I found a good earth at plenty of positions on the steering column. I've had the car 4 years and there has never been a 10 amp fuse for the horn in the engine bay fusebox. The connection is there but the fuse is missing. The horn has still worked nevertheless, until now. The wiring diagram shows 2 horn circuits, one of which is for the security system and has a 7.5 amp fuse in the driver's footwell. This fuse is intact and there is power at the fuse connection. I also found power at the 10 amp point in the fusebox. With nothing to lose, I put a 10 amp fuse in and the horn worked. Perhaps only one of the horns is working, but at least the car is road legal again. I might investigate further if the rain stops. If I discover anything interesting I will post it.
  24. Tomtit
    The horns have stopped working. The fuses and relay are OK, and the horns work when given a 12 volt supply from the battery. My next step is to check the horn switch under the steering wheel pad for continuity. I have a copy of the manual for the USA market, but the connector on my car (a British 52 plate LS430) is different and the wiring colours do not correspond. I have attached a copy of the manual page. The second image down shows the connector with 6 segments in a horizontal line. (It may be the first image ; the image is only showing half of the page on my draft post and it is upside down. I am not into this technology and would rather use a spanner). I have attached a photo of the connector on my car which is different. There are yellow, brown and black coverings going into the connector. If anyone has a copy of the British workshop manual showing how to check for continuity I would appreciate a look at the relevant page. Thank you.
  25. Tomtit
    I intend to keep the car and saw this as an investment. I may not be fit enough to crawl around under the car at a later date. With new driveshafts I also got the benefit of new bearings and rubber boots, so I won't have to worry about these wearing out. I think the driveshafts were about £280 including postage from Rockauto.
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