Paul Brooksbank

2 hours ago, toffee_pie said:

So you are happy to chuck away hundreds on a screwed up navigation system?

No I'm not. How it's been clarified as buggered, I'll be calling Lexus and quoting the statements on this forum. As someone said before, forewarned is forearmed. 

58 minutes ago, toffee_pie said:

Only for the fact someone with electronic knowledge could do a repair at a fraction of the price, and if it's a design flaw which seems to be the case there should be zero expense on the customer part. I have on going issues with an unnamed computer manufacturer over a laptop, I wasn't happy with the way things were going and went to the small claims court and won, I got a new replacement machine - unfortunately that too had issues and fed up with my tit for tat dealings I just opened this up myself and look to have done the repair myself. 

All Lexus will do is replaced of the main board, which probably has the same underlying issue as previous.

The guy at Cartronics said "as soon as it's says Lexus it's like Bentley, they put the price up", I took it be was referring to himself. 

1 hour ago, rayaans said:

Just to add to this. 

Please email Lexus UK customer support as this appears to be a running issue with these 2013/14 models. They are quite happy to help and offered a replacement for £500 which in the grand scheme of things is not that much compared to the retail price of these units. 

I have done that, they were supposed to get their local service manager to call me back but I was abroad. I'll be trying them on Monday morning. 

5 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

If it is made by Pioneer and has an SD-slot then it will have nav and will probably work. Ideally you want one the same as what you have - real part code 86804-53P40 or 86804-53P41. You could try the 86130-53183 (real part code 86804-53P51) Mark Levinson one as it may just be cosmetic differences but I'd make sure I could return it in case it doesn't like being connected to your Pioneer amp and not the ML one.

 

Have they returned your faulty unit? I'd be interested in taking a look at it to see what has failed - although there could be multiple faults on it now if someone has had it apart.

I'll send it to you if you like! However, let me get another unit in place first, that may take me a week or two. The one for sale are all on at least a thirty day guarantee and they accept returns so that's a bonus. 

I'll give it a whirl and get back to you, thanks for the help.

40 minutes ago, wharfhouse said:

Interesting that they found it was a power spike that was the problem - presumably that happened on reconnecting the new battery. 

Must have, yes. I wasn't impressed with Cartronics though. I'd expect a thorough breakdown of the fault and parts needed when I've paid £80.00 for diagnostics. All I got back was that shocking figure and the unit in a box! 

Well, I sent the head unit to Cartronics in Byfleet as they said they could fix it. After a few days I'd heard nothing so I called them. They had a Pioneer unit there but no details as to the fault or the owners name! I described the unit and told them that I'd included a printed A4 sheet of fault description and my details but someone had thrown it out with the packaging, so I wasn't best pleased. The guy called me back the next day to confirm a power spike and a repair bill of £1810.00. I've declined their kind offer.

There are second hand units on eBay with a slightly different part numbers but, it has exactly the same connection ports on the back. 

My question is, do any of you have knowledge of the part numbers and whether they're basically the same unit with slightly different specs? Mine is 86130-53171. There are a few available, 86130-24635, 86130-53U60, 86130-53183. They will fit, but will they all have SatNav, there's the sd slot on each one. 

On 6/28/2023 at 9:17 AM, matt8 said:

And today I wake up and use the window. And the problem has vanished…

🤷‍♂️

You slept in the car? 😁

I've taken my dead radio out and it's a Pioneer unit. I've also consulted my cousin, the electronics design engineer and there's an interesting story that will lead him in his fault finding.

Some years ago Fujitsu indulged in industrial espionage where they stole the formula for the water based dilectric capacitor from Panasonic, but they didn't get the whole formula. They started making these capacitors and sold them worldwide as they were cheaper than the standard capacitors of the time. After a while they all started to dry out and fail, leading to massive claims from everybody they'd sold them to. I had personal experience of this in around 2011 when my three year old Samsung TV failed out of warranty. I called Samsung and they mentioned Fujitsu capacitors and then fixed the TV for nothing. The cost of the repair going to..... Fujitsu.

Let's hope he can find the source of the failure and get me up and running again.

This has really ****** me off. The thing is, how come you can connect a new unit to the supply without that one burning out? 

I'm going to speak to my cousin over the weekend, he's an electronics design engineer. Hopefully he'll find the problem and rebuild the offending board.

I've just changed my Battery and guess what? Screen dead, no sound but air con works. I've tried the reset described above to no avail. Anybody figured out what blows yet?

I got around 54 mpg on a non stop run Crewe to St Albans on lockdown roads, I didn't stop anywhere and kept the speedo at an indicated 75 mph. 

https://www.my.is/threads/2001-solar-yellow-is300-for-sale-automatic-factory-alloys-socal-san-diego.611161/unread

2 hours ago, mikejt said:

My F sport averages about 43mpg, my subaru impreza WR1 averaged about 20mpg, less booting it on B rds. but it's 0-60 was 4.25s Prodrive figures. My 2.0TDi Skoda Octavia vRS DSG was similar 0-60 to Lexus but it felt as if it accelerated harder but driving the Lexus it's quieter and smoother and suddenly you're over 90mph ... and it's a great style car which is a consideration I make too. I do miss the direct connection between my right foot, the engine revs and acceleration but the car is fast although not in a blast around the B roads way as ecvt smooths it all out.

The electric motor with its instant torque added to the petrol engine provides a quick getaway from the lights compared to a DSG car whch has a split second delay when pulling away.

Like a lot of things cars are a compromise, you just have to decide which ones you can live with.

Anyway, I bought the Lexus because it won't blow up and drop its crankshaft on the road when I do test the acceleration. 

The third lane of the motorway being for overtaking is absolutely correct, but I object to other drivers trying to push me out of it and by this I mean, my travelling at exactly 70 mph to pass a driver in the middle lane doing 60 mph, but some idiot in a German company car behind me trying to reach 100 plus. 

I have the IS300h F Sport on a 2013 plate and to be honest, it's the best car I've ever had. I cannot agree that they're awfully slow, they're fast enough for anybody in their right mind. Mine is just as pleasing to drive as my previous Honda Civic and my wife's Mazda MX5, but I'm not looking to throw out around every bend. 

Economy wise, 38 mpg winter and 42 mpg summer and that's all urban driving, I've seen 56 on a run to St Albans on a quiet lockdown day and that was at an indicated 75 mph all the way.

I noticed that Lexus were selling those 20 volt solar chargers via their dealerships earlier this year. Would using one of these necessitate disconnecting the breather pipe? 

Hi fellas. Strange fault with my 2013 IS300h. On start up the air con buttons are dead other than Auto and nothing works. After 30 seconds it all comes to life and all buttons function normally, but the heater switches on at 24°. Adjustment and indications then work fine. A self test of the system gives code 55, which apparently, is heater resistor bank 1, sensor 3.

Does anybody have any idea where this sensor is and if it can be renewed if need be? 

Mine pops up momentarily on the multi info display, I have to be quick to see it though.

And here are the clip locations just in case anybody needs to know. They are quite robust too.

19 hours ago, steve2006 said:

 

You have also discovered the practical aspects of Fleming’s Left Hand Rule which determines the motor direction in relation to the direction of the magnetic field 😀

I already knew this, but due to the substandard Bentley engineer and the bottle of Shiraz, I clean forgot! 😂

16 hours ago, Herbie said:

Good grief Steve, the last time I had anything to do with that was during my electrical apprenticeship, 1974-1978. You've just blown a lot of dust off some little grey cells there my friend

And as for things to do when the football is on, you can't beat a bit of this:

Submarine racing, now, that sounds just the ticket. What channel is it on? And don't say "The English Channel." 

3 hours ago, Phil xxkr said:

I believe, Herbs, lots of people in the 70's loved jointing and probably still do 🤣

The 70's? In my experience it's right now and they're teachers, doctors and accountants! 

Thanks Steve. I find great satisfaction in finding something useful to do when football is on the TV, and the weather and light are kind! 😁 I can't stand being trapped indoors at this time of year. 

Next week's topic, main research on Tuesday night when England play, will be "How To Make The Mythical Dylithium Crystal, And Avoid Assassination By The Oil Companies."

Recently I noticed that my left door mirror would pan, but not tilt. I stripped it down by pushing the top of the mirror glass all the way in then inserting my fingers under the bottom and unclipping it. Then you remove the black Phillips head screws, four of them (actually five, but one of them doesn't hold the body coloured cover) to remove the outer casing and you'll see three silver screws holding the mirror motor housing in place. Undo these being careful not to drop them and the motor housing comes away. Once you've freed the wiring from the retainers you'll have enough room to unclip the two multi connectors that feed into the rear of the motor housing, one is white, the power to the motors, one black which is the position sensor for the memory. Don't worry, they're pretty robust and a tickle with a thin bladed screw driver will get them off. The motor housing has three clips, two are inside the moulding and easy to locate, one is simply a hook on the bottom. Again, a thin bladed screw driver will easily undo them. The motor housing then separates into two halves and nothing will fall out when you pull them apart. 

The motors simply pull out of their locations and have two holes in the plastic brush holders, into which the positive and negative feed prongs go when the multi clip is in place. I inserted a couple of pins into the two holes in the motor and connected a 12 volt feed to test them. One motor ran and the other wouldn't move. So, strip down time. The tabs on the metal motor body that grip the brush housing are tiny and virtually impossible to bend straight, so I took a 1.5 mm drill and removed them. The plastic worm drive gear simply pulls away with careful use of needle nose pliers. Once this was done I pulled the armature out of the body and found the contacts contaminated with silicone lubricant from the housing. A quick clean up with a bit of 1000 grade paper and cellulose thinners (nail varnish remover will suffice) on the armature and brush tips and back together. As I'd destroyed the tabs, I used a spot of super glue and duct tape on reassembly. One thing to remember is to make a note of the washers on the armature shaft, one is thin steel and then there's a plastic one, make sure the plastic washer is kept in place or the armature will short circuit on the motor body.

The motor is then pushed back into its locating slot and the outer gear drive clips back into place, just make sure you push it hard enough to locate the clips or it will come apart when you apply power.

Now, this was the bit that confused me. The mirror worked fine but the tilt went up with the down button and down with the up! Bugger.... This was annoying especially when I was trying to adjust it on the move and forgot! Anyway, at least I'm on the right track to saving £400.00 on a complete new mirror from Lexus?

So, I had a word with a neighbour who is a development engineer with our local car factory, Bentley. He reckoned I'd fitted the outer housing back to the motor base with a drive gear 180° out, but he couldn't be sure as they fit Audi mirrors and don't keep any documents on how they actually work. Great help that!

I put up with it for a week and then, in a moment of Shiraz haze on Friday night I saw the light. When I'd split the two parts of the motor, I hadn't noted which way around, or which was facing out on the motor body, so I'd effectively kept the positive and negative feeds as were, there's no choice, and reversed the North and South magnets by fitting the body 180° rotated with the brush plate in the same plane!

Anyway, it's all sorted now and to add insult to injury, you can buy the motors on eBay for about £4.00 delivered, as per the attached link.

https://www.bing.com/aclk?ld=e8Km7Hr3wv53vrv59LZ8cCYDVUCUz2XGgJ9F3n2ZGV10-J8ybcYmLBEhDCMKyq8ztVl677vO7d7C-1OscWFoq8-12-4UJfExYl7ijTh3r_jiyBBmNY74nAsephtVYjRgfJLhmLdO9QYUkVnTag6n1gthby7IwfJXO8PlAY-Ysu1_1Y5ZOGN0HC-r7iuKYen4M3s_K5Kw&u=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&rlid=c5f2c07b284517545694a0a3f55f4d18

If you like a tinker, here's the photos.

5 hours ago, Thackeray said:

Yes, I would guess that torque is only applied to MG2 when the engine is running, and just enough to counter-balance the torque from the engine. So the parking pawl still holds the car stationary if the parking brake isn't on, whether the engine is running or not.

Actually, I find that I can stop the car on an incline, allowing it to stop naturally, it holds position even with the engine switched off, drive still engaged and without my foot on the brake pedal. 

The batteries feed MG2 with enough current to hold the stator in position and therefore hold the car in a stationary position. If the batteries then deplete, the engine starts and feeds from MG1 into MG2. 

It is an ingenious system and any passengers in the vehicle who are accustomed to standard automatic vehicles (the cheap seats as I call them) are mind blown by the concept.