Paul Brooksbank

No I'm not. How it's been clarified as buggered, I'll be calling Lexus and quoting the statements on this forum. As someone said before, forewarned is forearmed.

The guy at Cartronics said "as soon as it's says Lexus it's like Bentley, they put the price up", I took it be was referring to himself.

I have done that, they were supposed to get their local service manager to call me back but I was abroad. I'll be trying them on Monday morning.

I'll send it to you if you like! However, let me get another unit in place first, that may take me a week or two. The one for sale are all on at least a thirty day guarantee and they accept returns so that's a bonus. I'll give it a whirl and get back to you, thanks for the help.

Must have, yes. I wasn't impressed with Cartronics though. I'd expect a thorough breakdown of the fault and parts needed when I've paid £80.00 for diagnostics. All I got back was that shocking figure and the unit in a box!

Well, I sent the head unit to Cartronics in Byfleet as they said they could fix it. After a few days I'd heard nothing so I called them. They had a Pioneer unit there but no details as to the fault or the owners name! I described the unit and told them that I'd included a printed A4 sheet of fault description and my details but someone had thrown it out with the packaging, so I wasn't best pleased. The guy called me back the next day to confirm a power spike and a repair bill of £1810.00. I've declined their kind offer. There are second hand units on EBay with a slightly different part numbers but, it has exactly the same connection ports on the back. My question is, do any of you have knowledge of the part numbers and whether they're basically the same unit with slightly different specs? Mine is 86130-53171. There are a few available, 86130-24635, 86130-53U60, 86130-53183. They will fit, but will they all have SatNav, there's the sd slot on each one.

You slept in the car? 😁

I've taken my dead radio out and it's a Pioneer unit. I've also consulted my cousin, the electronics design engineer and there's an interesting story that will lead him in his fault finding. Some years ago Fujitsu indulged in industrial espionage where they stole the formula for the water based dilectric capacitor from Panasonic, but they didn't get the whole formula. They started making these capacitors and sold them worldwide as they were cheaper than the standard capacitors of the time. After a while they all started to dry out and fail, leading to massive claims from everybody they'd sold them to. I had personal experience of this in around 2011 when my three year old Samsung TV failed out of warranty. I called Samsung and they mentioned Fujitsu capacitors and then fixed the TV for nothing. The cost of the repair going to..... Fujitsu. Let's hope he can find the source of the failure and get me up and running again.

This has really ****** me off. The thing is, how come you can connect a new unit to the supply without that one burning out? I'm going to speak to my cousin over the weekend, he's an electronics design engineer. Hopefully he'll find the problem and rebuild the offending board.

I've just changed my battery and guess what? Screen dead, no sound but air con works. I've tried the reset described above to no avail. Anybody figured out what blows yet?

I got around 54 mpg on a non stop run Crewe to St Albans on lockdown roads, I didn't stop anywhere and kept the speedo at an indicated 75 mph.

https://www.my.is/threads/2001-solar-yellow-is300-for-sale-automatic-factory-alloys-socal-san-diego.611161/unread

Anyway, I bought the Lexus because it won't blow up and drop its crankshaft on the road when I do test the acceleration.

The third lane of the motorway being for overtaking is absolutely correct, but I object to other drivers trying to push me out of it and by this I mean, my travelling at exactly 70 mph to pass a driver in the middle lane doing 60 mph, but some idiot in a German company car behind me trying to reach 100 plus.

I have the IS300h F Sport on a 2013 plate and to be honest, it's the best car I've ever had. I cannot agree that they're awfully slow, they're fast enough for anybody in their right mind. Mine is just as pleasing to drive as my previous Honda Civic and my wife's Mazda MX5, but I'm not looking to throw out around every bend. Economy wise, 38 mpg winter and 42 mpg summer and that's all urban driving, I've seen 56 on a run to St Albans on a quiet lockdown day and that was at an indicated 75 mph all the way.

I noticed that Lexus were selling those 20 volt solar chargers via their dealerships earlier this year. Would using one of these necessitate disconnecting the breather pipe?

Hi fellas. Strange fault with my 2013 IS300h. On start up the air con buttons are dead other than Auto and nothing works. After 30 seconds it all comes to life and all buttons function normally, but the heater switches on at 24°. Adjustment and indications then work fine. A self test of the system gives code 55, which apparently, is heater resistor bank 1, sensor 3. Does anybody have any idea where this sensor is and if it can be renewed if need be?

Mine pops up momentarily on the multi info display, I have to be quick to see it though.

And here are the clip locations just in case anybody needs to know. They are quite robust too.

I already knew this, but due to the substandard Bentley engineer and the bottle of Shiraz, I clean forgot! 😂

Submarine racing, now, that sounds just the ticket. What channel is it on? And don't say "The English Channel."

The 70's? In my experience it's right now and they're teachers, doctors and accountants!

Thanks Steve. I find great satisfaction in finding something useful to do when football is on the TV, and the weather and light are kind! 😁 I can't stand being trapped indoors at this time of year. Next week's topic, main research on Tuesday night when England play, will be "How To Make The Mythical Dylithium Crystal, And Avoid Assassination By The Oil Companies."

Recently I noticed that my left door mirror would pan, but not tilt. I stripped it down by pushing the top of the mirror glass all the way in then inserting my fingers under the bottom and unclipping it. Then you remove the black Phillips head screws, four of them (actually five, but one of them doesn't hold the body coloured cover) to remove the outer casing and you'll see three silver screws holding the mirror motor housing in place. Undo these being careful not to drop them and the motor housing comes away. Once you've freed the wiring from the retainers you'll have enough room to unclip the two multi connectors that feed into the rear of the motor housing, one is white, the power to the motors, one black which is the position sensor for the memory. Don't worry, they're pretty robust and a tickle with a thin bladed screw driver will get them off. The motor housing has three clips, two are inside the moulding and easy to locate, one is simply a hook on the bottom. Again, a thin bladed screw driver will easily undo them. The motor housing then separates into two halves and nothing will fall out when you pull them apart. The motors simply pull out of their locations and have two holes in the plastic brush holders, into which the positive and negative feed prongs go when the multi clip is in place. I inserted a couple of pins into the two holes in the motor and connected a 12 volt feed to test them. One motor ran and the other wouldn't move. So, strip down time. The tabs on the metal motor body that grip the brush housing are tiny and virtually impossible to bend straight, so I took a 1.5 mm drill and removed them. The plastic worm drive gear simply pulls away with careful use of needle nose pliers. Once this was done I pulled the armature out of the body and found the contacts contaminated with silicone lubricant from the housing. A quick clean up with a bit of 1000 grade paper and cellulose thinners (nail varnish remover will suffice) on the armature and brush tips and back together. As I'd destroyed the tabs, I used a spot of super glue and duct tape on reassembly. One thing to remember is to make a note of the washers on the armature shaft, one is thin steel and then there's a plastic one, make sure the plastic washer is kept in place or the armature will short circuit on the motor body. The motor is then pushed back into its locating slot and the outer gear drive clips back into place, just make sure you push it hard enough to locate the clips or it will come apart when you apply power. Now, this was the bit that confused me. The mirror worked fine but the tilt went up with the down button and down with the up! Bugger.... This was annoying especially when I was trying to adjust it on the move and forgot! Anyway, at least I'm on the right track to saving £400.00 on a complete new mirror from Lexus? So, I had a word with a neighbour who is a development engineer with our local car factory, Bentley. He reckoned I'd fitted the outer housing back to the motor base with a drive gear 180° out, but he couldn't be sure as they fit Audi mirrors and don't keep any documents on how they actually work. Great help that! I put up with it for a week and then, in a moment of Shiraz haze on Friday night I saw the light. When I'd split the two parts of the motor, I hadn't noted which way around, or which was facing out on the motor body, so I'd effectively kept the positive and negative feeds as were, there's no choice, and reversed the North and South magnets by fitting the body 180° rotated with the brush plate in the same plane! Anyway, it's all sorted now and to add insult to injury, you can buy the motors on EBay for about £4.00 delivered, as per the attached link. https://www.bing.com/aclk?ld=e8Km7Hr3wv53vrv59LZ8cCYDVUCUz2XGgJ9F3n2ZGV10-J8ybcYmLBEhDCMKyq8ztVl677vO7d7C-1OscWFoq8-12-4UJfExYl7ijTh3r_jiyBBmNY74nAsephtVYjRgfJLhmLdO9QYUkVnTag6n1gthby7IwfJXO8PlAY-Ysu1_1Y5ZOGN0HC-r7iuKYen4M3s_K5Kw&u=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&rlid=c5f2c07b284517545694a0a3f55f4d18 If you like a tinker, here's the photos.

Actually, I find that I can stop the car on an incline, allowing it to stop naturally, it holds position even with the engine switched off, drive still engaged and without my foot on the brake pedal. The batteries feed MG2 with enough current to hold the stator in position and therefore hold the car in a stationary position. If the batteries then deplete, the engine starts and feeds from MG1 into MG2. It is an ingenious system and any passengers in the vehicle who are accustomed to standard automatic vehicles (the cheap seats as I call them) are mind blown by the concept.