Bradley-_-1995

The information I used to create the mod was found on this american website. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lexus-audio-video-security-and-electronics/269156-how-to-build-and-hardwire-an-auxillary-input-to-oem-stereo.html The OP seems to be very clued up. The idea is to intercept the pre amp signal wires from the cd changer before they reach the head unit. You then use 4 X 12v 5 pin relays to either allow signal from cd player to the headunit (as normal) or , for different input, live up 12v relays and allow external input. You need to be decent at soldering, and although it works well, when the engine runs you get a slight hiss at really high volumes, even on CD with relays switched off. Also CD changer needs to be functional still, If your cars cd changer doesn't work this aux input mod won't work for you. You need to read a few pages on his post as he says he is working on a 95 ls400 for demo but he isn't, for a 95 ls the wires to intercept are a page or two down in the comments. The LS he does has an amp under uk drivers side seat but I needed to use wires behind CD changer behind glovebox. If you get stuck inbox me and I can explain it better. Apologies for the late reply.

Been a little while guys. Yeah I'm a terrible welder we know that much. I definitely disconnected the battery when welding. The tank is a donut and I left it "in-situ" and did the welding. With my knowledge of natural gas being a heating engineer I knew there was no real risk of an explosion unless I had a leak from the tank, which I don't. As far as working on the LPG system I'm more than willing to have a go myself. The car is rather good on gas, on a recent 100 mile trip it only drank £15 worth of gas at 57.7p per litre (local morrisons fuel station) which makes it better fuel wise to run than my last car a e36 323i saloon. Clocks still broken, diff still knocking, I did contact lexus newcastle and asked for a price / parts diagram of diff bushing, guy at lexus asked for an e-mail address and I'm yet to receive diagram 😥, although, I do know that just the singular bolt was 25 quid plus vat from lexus 😂. Buying a Flashlube kit from ebay soon and installing it myself (valve saver lubricant for lpg cars) It hasn't had one thus far but , it won't hurt to fit one. I have also done an 'Aux in mod' to allow me to use my ipod or phone as an input on the factory head unit, sounds great for a little bit of soldering and 4 relays with a switch 😂😎. Really enjoying the old beast.

Because I have mechanical sympathy I haven't tried it with kick down as i know there is a fault. It is most noticeable when shifting into gear when the car is cold (raised rpm). When shifting from D to R it is noticeable too. If driven gently from standstill it won't bang, when switching from gas to petrol on the fly, the split second needed to switch makes it bang as engine loses power and then gets it back suddenly. Previous owner did tell me this fault, although he failed to mention the rotten metal underneath 👀. However, for the price I paid for the car (£1,000), with a working LPG system and relatively low mileage, I can't be too picky can I. Good news is I've finished repairing the wheel well. (Yes I know the welding is nothing short of shockingly hideous, but, as aforementioned, I am no welder, just an Ape with a Mig.) 😂 And at least now my gas tank won't fall out whilst I'm driving. Next on the list is getting the clocks out and getting them repaired. 😁

7 bolts to remove engine dress cover, remove plug lead and cam sprocket cover, easy access to view cam sprocket and look at the timing belt. Honestly i think it looks ok, I'll leave it for the winter months. I've done a cambelt on a hymer motorhome before where access was a mare being fwd, this looks easy enough to get to being longitudinal.

I was hoping to be able to remove the top belt covers and have a look at the belt to make sure it isn't visibly worn or cracked on the backside at all, I would resist driving it at all until a new belt was sourced, not sure if that is even possible at all to remove the top covers easily. I am a plumbing and heating engineer and have messed about with mechanics and engineering since I was much younger. I'm not shy of replacing the belt and water pump myself if needed. I believe the sill was jacked on incorrectly at some point, then a plate was riveted on, not sealed correctly, allowing all elements into the sill. The wheel well I imagined would be a boot seal or perhaps condensation caused by the cold metal lpg tank? Car bought from telford not sure on location beforehand. The photo attached shows what was visible when the sill cover was on, a small hole in driver floor well and floor carpet coming through.

Apparent 130k miles, belt been changed once at 60 odd thousand and again at 100 odd thousand, last recorded belt change 12 years ago, so i need to visually inspect the belt very soon to see whether i need to change it before driving it again, after hours of reading and arguments on forums including this one I learned my ls is an interference so if the belt did break the engine would be scrap. Probably around 8 stamps in the book perhaps more. It also has some lowering springs fitted, Mazds RX8 alloy wheels, and a badly painted black front grill. Other minor fault is diff front bush is worn so bangs on hard accel. from a stand still or rough throttle inputs, i can drive as is, drove 220 miles home in it from telford with no issues.

Hi everyone, I'm a new member to the forum, however i have been reading various posts and content for years. I live in North East England , Tyne and Wear / Northumberland border right on the coast. I have recently bought my first ls400, a mk 1 series 2 (UCF20) , from Telford last weekend. Previously owned: 98 gs300 on tein coilovers. And a is300 with tte bodykit. The LS400 has a BRC single point LPG injection system fitted and donut tank. Broken backlight or circuitboard fault in dash display Big hole in the drivers side sill where previous owner jacked it up then patched it badly And finally spare wheel well rotten to the point the carpet was visible (still repairing now for re-mot) I'm not a welder but I've doing all welding myself to save money, its ugly but solid now.