Maxz

There is a lot of reading on the thread but the key point is there are two wires to switch over, after that works perfectly.

As my vehicle is reaching the 10 year mark in June next year and well under 100k miles, I intend to do the next intermediate service a few months earlier than the usual August time. Lexus service assistant advised that would get me another 12 months of relax warranty. However, given I was basically hinting I intend to go indie after that, they mentioned "Lexus Value" servicing for older vehicles. I looked online and can't find any details on this. Anyone had experience of it and typical pricing of full and intermediate under this product offering? Thanks!

Saves me a job, thanks Colin!

I could have sworn there was a previous post on this or in the user manual, but a search of both can't find anything. Is there still a requirement with modern headlights (and therefore on IS300H) to put stickers or adjust beam settings for driving in Europe? If someone knows how to adjust please advise, otherwise I'll invest in a sticker set. Many Thanks Max

Did the IS300h have a rear electric sun visor option? Could be for that and would love to retrofit given mine South faces when parked on the drive so heats up pretty quick.

Just had a major service today, so got the car back radio was off. Has anyone else noticed a high pitched but quiet squeaking noise coming from their steering wheel when cornering? Almost sounds like the distant noise your hear birds make first thing in the morning. It is not particularly loud or annoying but for a Lexus you don't really expect it. If anyone has experienced the same and resolved let me know. I think worst case I might just squirt some silicone spray in the gap between the wheel and the steering column cover, as it sounds simply like plastic on plastic rubbing.

At 9 years 40k miles I'm also on original discs and pads with plenty of pads left. Had the slide pins re-greased at 20k miles in Aug 2020. It could be my ears being over sensitive again but I am sure I can hear some slight contact/scraping when I first set off (all windows down to listen). It does go away after a few stops and minutes though. Is now a good time to have them redone? Last time Lexus charged £100, assume with inflation it is a bit more now. Also, aware there is the other thread on checking slide pins already but still looking for a quick way to check for binding. If you had a helper, parked car on a flat surface with just the separate parking brake on, if your helper pumped the brakes and you had a torch, would you be able to observe free movement of the pins/caliper that way?

Agree it is too quiet, especially when the radio is on. Used a cheap ODB2 cable and Techstream to adjust mine to high, even then it is not very loud but at least then you can hear it. If you are paying for a service dealer should throw that in for free, takes 5-10 mins tops to code. The other thing possibly worth changing is the lane change indicator numbers of flashes, I found 7 flashes is best for a slow glide into lane, default setting always seemed to end only half way into a lane change.

Also if someone can tell me if my maths is correct or incorrect here. Checked voltage in accessory mode this morning @12.2V. Based on the AGM chart on this website (Ultimate Guide to Battery Voltage Chart (ecoflow.com)) that is about 65% charged. The capacity of a 28800-YZZA1 Toyota AGM battery is 45Ah. My Ctek XS800 maintenance charger delivers a maximum current of 0.8A. Based on this and using this website (Battery Charge Time Calculator - Footprint Hero) I get 25 hours to recharge the rest of the way to 100%. Sound right or have I got something wrong here? I recharged the other day for 4-5 hours from 12.2v and the battery was showing 12.9V (almost 100%) immediately afterwards but I have read this voltage is overstated due to residual charge and needs to be left resting for a period of time so that the resting/true voltage reading is given. Leaving on charge for 25 hours, just a bit nervous of overcharging but assume 0.8A is not a strong current anyway and if working correctly the charger should switch automatically into maintenance mode anyway, dropping to an even more nominal current. Many Thanks

You do have a valid point there, that the vehicle is hybrid and not a standard start-stop vehicle. What I also found is all other battery retailers, when you input your vehicle or registration to search, they all stated "go to dealer". If this one again dies within 2 years will defo go for a non-AGM. Below got the "quick" trickle charge setup in place. For anyone else interested there is a convenient access point that you can stow the connector end in. This way you dont have to take off the main trim door each time. Given the base of it is metal I also opted to line it with some plastic to avoid any risk of shorts although highly unlikely. Note that to get the red plastic positive terminal cover to clip back into place, you can cut two small channels to create a bendable tab that allows the eyelet cable to poke out. Given I went for a standard instead of indicator Ctek cable which does not come with an inline fuse as standard, opted to add my own per photo. I happened to have a glass fuse holder to hand so used that, but otherwise a car-fuse type holder is best (looks nicer).

Thanks again all for the tips. Just to update have bought a new 12v AGM from Lexus, although the date stamped on the battery is December 2023. 12.4v typically showing in Accessory mode and thus far not dropping away (if it does start doing this with the new battery, then a new story begins...). I looked at standard batteries and much of the feedback was you need an AGM for a start/stop vehicle due to the high frequency of charge and discharge cycles. Also purchased the Ctek M6 terminal cable, which I plan to fit tomorrow. This will save me having to open the bonnet and remove the fuse box cover all the time which is a chore. The only logistics to work out will be where to run the charger or extension lead 240v cable out from, being sure not to create a possible water ingress point. I am hoping there is a point where the lower edge of the boot lid meets the bumper moulding, that has sufficient panel gap that a standard diameter power lead can fit between when it is latched.

Just to update leaky water pump (see image) replaced under Relax warranty and throttle body electrical noise/buzz expected behaviour.

Also check the water pump that it has been replaced already or if showing pink crust on the underside of the impeller body or bolts, ask to have it replaced or knock off the cost for the dealership to replace it. Image below (not great quality as screensnip off Lexus service video but gives you an idea of what to check for).

Yeah mine is really strange, seems to be leaking through the thread of the lower LH nut/bolt. I am not touching it or investigating any further so it is obvious to the Lexus technician where the leak and therefore problem is. Hopefully they replace the whole pump and not just the seal otherwise when the bearing goes will need to replace it then anyway.

Just to update, with the car started and the engine stopped after it's initial run, I disconnected the plug from the Throttle Body and the noise stopped, so this is the source. Appreciate this is considered normal (and probably just never noticed before as I typically only pop the hood when the engine is off). Please note only do this if you have an OBD tool to reset the DTC code and clear the orange engine warning light from the dash. Car booked in for next Friday for the water pump investigation and hopefully replacement before the car reaches 10 years and Relax is up (well it is only just turning 9 so next year). Seems regardless of miles (only 39k) at the very least the pump seal has perished. Possibly the number 1 area to monitor for any of those with an aging IS, plus 12v battery charge and voltage level (easily done by holding the Menu button + 3 clicks to sidelight to bring up the Vehicle Signal diagnostic menu). If the voltage in Accessory mode is at least 12v after fully charging the battery, seems to be an indicator that you won't get stuck with the Hybrid System refusing to boot.