BoutTime

https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-ct/lexus-ct-2010-onwards/lexus-ct-engine-service-kits/lexus-ct-phase-1-12v-starter-battery/

Like you say the car may have been sitting around for a while. If you have a smart charger like a ctek it might be worth charging it. It's a handy thing to have regardless.

Ask your local Lexus Dealership as some members on here have had OEM replacements fitted for less than what Halfords are quoting.

Maybe I've just been fortunate and I don't want to tempt fate but I haven't replaced a car battery in my 29 years of owning cars. Batteries should be good for much longer than three years. I would go for the Yuasa OEM battery personally. Pretty sure they're around £95 from Lexus or Toyota.

Do you have the sat nav displayed at the time? It beeps when approaching a fixed speed camera.

Same issue with my CT. I used to have the same with my old BMW 1 Series. I've just applied some Silicone spray and problem solved.

You pay the entire balance over 12 months interest free. The warranty lasts for 24 months.

Good morning All. The current dealership Extended Warranty is due to expire on my CT at the end of September. I will taking out a new 2-4-1 policy but just wondered what everyone's thoughts were on the 12 months interest free credit. At first glance it's a no-brainer but I'm wondering if there are any benefits to paying the entire amount up-front. If I take out the direct debit option and sell the car in 12 months, the warranty is paid for in full and I can transfer the remaining 12 months warranty (as far as I know) for a £25 fee. But in all likelihood I'll trade the CT in to a Lexus dealership for another Lexus such as a UX or an RX. I rarely pass up interest free credit for anything but just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Many thanks in advance.

I was put off Toyota's after my wife's RAV4 T180 with the notorious Bridgestone Support Rings plus wireless Tire Pressure sensors. Then it developed a Timing Chain issue. But I think we bought a dog if an ex-lease car that hadn't been looked after so we had to get shot to webuyanycar sharpish. Yet still to this day my wife pines for that car. Loving my Lexus though. I've also had a few German cars (three BMWs and an Audi) and plan to stick with Lexus now if I can. My wife's timing chain in her BMW skipped a tooth due to guides breaking up and cost us over £3k for a full engine rebuild. It had about 40k on the clock at the time. The specialists that did the work had completed over 1000 rebuilds on BMWs, Minis and Range Rivers fitted with BMW engines. That was three years ago.

I previously had a Jaguar XF. Lovely looking car with a great engine but would never buy another Jaguar. Always something wrong with it. And when looking on the internet it was always a 'known issue'. They just haven't produced the numbers to allow them to develop and improve. And I don't think they have the money for sufficient R&D. Such a shame as they are fantastic to look at.

Good luck with the new car. Will be interested to hear how you get on with it as might be interested in making the same move in future.

I've only ever used it on long descents and previously I've flicked over to sport mode to check engine rpm. I've mistaken that to mean the engine was actually running. Thanks for putting me right.

Personally i do this: At traffic lights I keep it in drive with my foot on the brake (middle pedal). On steep hills I leave it in drive going up. Coming down I leave it in drive unless it's long and steep then I use B which will fire up the engine.

EV mode is useful for climbing a hill at low speed and saving fuel or driving into your road late at night so as not to disturb anyone. Other than that it's not worth bothering with as the car will look after everything automatically. It can be a case of robbing Peter to save Paul. For instance if you force EV mode at the end of your journey the battery will deplete. This means that when you next drive the car the engine is likely to run for longer to charge the battery.

Exactly this. We only see the usable capacity. Mine often goes to full bars after coasting downhill.

Had mine on full bars quite a few times but barely use that screen. I normally have it on the trip screen.

Oh and I leave mine in drive on hills and press the brake. Pushing the brake right in will activate hill start and prevent rollback for a couple of seconds. Don't use neutral as the battery doesn't recharge in neutral.

I always use both the foot brake and park. Think of it like this..... Foot brake = traditional handbrake Park button = traditional park on an auto transmission When you turn the car off park is automatically engaged anyhow. The thing to bare in mind if selecting EV mode is once the battery is depleted it will need recharging. If no downhill travel or regen braking opportunities then it will start the engine anyhow. No such thing as a free lunch. So coasting into your road in EV mode when close to home will mean the engine will need to run and for longer the next time you use the car. Swings and roundabouts.

Mine also had a missed service but it didn't stop the Lexus dealership giving it an extended warranty. The car has been serviced regularly. I wouldn't let it bother you to be honest. With is age and the mileage you plan on doing the resale value shouldn't be a consideration either. Just my opinion of course.

Looks pretty good to me.

I would imagine the main criteria for Lexus when deciding on fitting an AGM battery to a hybrid vehicle would be the likelyhood of battery damage/spillage into cabin during a collision. Plus potential for gases entering the cabin. So a hatchback would be treated differently to a saloon I would imagine if the battery is in the boot.

I'm no expert but I wonder if that label is written with constant current 'dumb' chargers in mind. The Ctek is a smart charger and will charge at full current (5A) up to 80% full charge. It will then charge at a decreasing current to 100% full charge.

Are you not able to charge it?

I personally think Ctek have made a mess of their instruction booklet and they find themselves in a bit of an awkward place. It's not possible for them to change it and send it out to everyone who's bought one. It's interesting that Yuasa (who manufactured my 12v battery) sell their own rebadged Ctek MCX 5.0 charger (YCX 5.0) but it doesn't have an AGM mode labelled. It's relabelled with a snowflake and is used for cold weather and AGM batteries requiring 14.7v. But Yuasa don't tell anyone which of their AGM batteries require 14.7v! https://www.yuasa.co.uk/media/static-datasheets/Yuasa_Smart_Charger_datasheet_YCX_5.0.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi_oabK4-7oAhWlunEKHYTUBPgQFjAAegQIAxAC&usg=AOvVaw1K-LtsijIauFI458AEy-si Also it's worth noting with regards to amperage that Stage 4 starts at 80% of full charge and charges at a declining current all the way up to 100%. So being a smart charger it doesn't force 5A in from start to finish.

Look at the chart on page 5. AGM and Recond is a charging program that can be selected.