Howplum

We'll, I never knew that. Top tip. A DA polisher is definitely useful, especially with a car as big as the Lexus!

Well done. I read somewhere that the steering rack bushes can be quite tricky, so I'll be interested to hear how you get on. Are you going to be rebuilding the rear suspension as well?

Paul, are you using a mixture of new Lexus/aftermarket components and/or re-bushing the originals? Did you consider polyurethane bushes? Will you be replacing the nuts and bolts?

I'm looking forward to following your progress because I hope to do mine sometime. Good luck.

For the paint something like G3 Pro Scratch Remover might work well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/G3-Pro-7164-Professional-Scratch/dp/B004RAUJA0/ref=asc_df_B004RAUJA0/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310493449173&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12776084312879363395&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006892&hvtargid=pla-755955901912&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

https://thescratchdoctor.co.uk/product/leather-steering-wheel-repair-kit/?attribute_pa_colour=grey&utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=5174&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cGUBhA9EiwArBAvomPIY6rCCcFWsJZUe9xBsIWoe-IDJvrZ7nv7tdr0BoWh0RnvZVBYohoCgjIQAvD_BwE

Depending how bad the leather is you could try a leather renovation kit.

This is the modification mentioned on a US website that I did on my old cluster which at least avoided the need to dismantle the gauge itself.

I used these on the car: And these on the bench: Hopefully the fact that it seems to spells SOS isn't significant!

Maybe this previous topic might help:

As far as I'm aware there is only one amplifier, although I'm no expert. The CD player was connected directly to the head unit. My amplifier drives all the speakers, including the sub woofer in the rear parcel shelf. If you could get hold of a wiring diagram for your year that should help with your investigations, although I found a couple of US forums quite useful as well. I guess at this point you might need to decide whether you want originality or something more up to date. My unit is a Pioneer, with plenty of bells and whistles, which I got through eBay, so wasn't expensive. The main factor was the time it took for me figure out how to make the adaptor, since there didn't seem to be an off the shelf solution for my year.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133623161330#vi-desc-maincntr

To take the last point first, I read somewhere that the LCD displays might be repairable/replaceable, but a used unit might work, although that would also be about 29 years old. It worked for me on my 1996. As to your other problems, there is obviously an issue with the head unit, but maybe the amplifier is faulty as well. Apparently its in the boot behind the lining panel hiding the petrol tank. I didn't have your issues, but ended up installing a modern double din unit with touchscreen, USB and AUX inputs. I had to buy the adaptor from the US, but for your year they seem to be available here. I did have to make a wiring adaptor, which involved a fair bit of research, but it was worth it in the end. It's connected to the existing amplifier and the sound is very good. The downside is that I can no longer use the CD player and there is no cassette player. The AUX and USB sockets are to the left of the steering wheel in the picture.

In the end I decided to clean up the springs and see what condition they were really in, which proved to be not too bad. I then applied rust converter, zinc primer and three coats of Rustin's Quick Dry Satin Black Metal Paint, so hopefully it won't go rusty for some time. I also gave the new shock absorbers a couple of coats of satin black as well. Despite appearances, the rubber "insulators" are brand new. I must say that putting the struts back single handed was quite challenging, but I found that by manoeuvring the strut into position, attaching the top three nuts and then compressing the spring enough to allow the bottom eye to approximately line up with the hub was do-able. Applying strong downward leverage on the upper suspension arm enabled me to slide the bolt in, although the anti-roll drop link does get in the way a bit. In my first attempt I was frustrated by the fact that lower end of the shock absorber was about 0.5mm too wide, but that was solved with a bit of careful filing. Not a job I want to do again in a hurry.

Perhaps some masking tape for curves: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/adhesives/harris-curve-masking-tape-25mmx25m-180227.html And/or a flat lining brush: https://www.loobicrafts.co.uk/gold-line-brush---flat---size-20-12556-p.asp Or maybe a foam brush: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brush-contains-brushes-range-include/dp/B00O263B90/ref=asc_df_B00O263B90/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309954504937&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16560202155805894501&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-775672176404&psc=1#

I've just checked Amayama's website and they quote £23.87 each for genuine or £6.75 for CTR brand, plus postage. If I've read the Government's website correctly, because the total will be under £135 VAT should be included by the seller and no duty is payable. Having done a bit of research it looks as though CTR are a big, long established Korean OEM and aftermarket supplier, albeit one I've never heard of! I have therefore ordered two front and two rear CTR drop links for a total cost of £48, including shipping. I noticed that for the front ones they also offer Febest at a price well below UK listed prices. Time will tell if I've made the right choice. https://aftermarket.ctr.co.kr/About/History

I'm just in the process of doing so, as per my recent post: I'll post a comment about the result once it's all back together again. I'm sure I read somewhere that KYB were original fitment, but I've just checked the old ones and there are no markings to confirm or deny that.

Talking of possible bargains, or not, these are the prices Lexus quoted me for the lower shock absorber nut and bolt along with the anti-roll bar bushes and drop links: "Rear Axle Carrier Bolt - £20.68 available from LPD here. Rear Axle Carrier Nut - £7.77 available from LPD here. Rear Stabilizer Bush - £50.12 available from LPD here. Rear Stabilizer Link - £177.46 available from LPD here." As a matter of curiosity I did contact HSD about their coilover kit, my criteria being to retain the comfort, reduce the ride height slightly and improve cornering composure. This is their reply: "Thanks for getting in touch with us. The HSD Dualtech kit is the closest to OEM comfort as it retains a twin tube damper design much like the OEM item on your car. These are very slightly firmer than OEM suspension but do still ride very well and will help with some corning stability. At the highest this kit can be set to the car will be around25-30mm lower than standard so this does sound like it will be ideal for what you need. https://www.driftworks.com/hsd-dualtech-coilovers-lexus-ls400-ucf10-20.html If you do need any more help on this please let me know." The research continues...............

Thanks for the idea.

Just to correct myself, Lexus Parts Direct list rear springs at £120.88 each, and that's a sale price!

Back in the 60s I used to clean whitewalls with a Brillo pad. It worked a treat. Back then you could also get tins of whitewall paint.

I am about to replace the rear shock absorber insulators (boot) and the shock absorbers themselves. Having removed everything the springs look a bit crusty in places so it might be prudent to replace those as well. However, it seems that replacement springs for models between 1994 and 1997 are not as plentiful as for the previous and subsequent models. It looks as though Lexus don't supply them any more, the best of the aftermarket ones appearing to be KYB. Suplex are listed on Autodoc, which is a make I have never heard of, and a seller is advertising Blueprint ones on eBay . Euro Car Parts don't list anything at all. My original intention was to de-rust and paint the springs to prevent further deterioration. Any suggestions please?

I seem to recall watching a video a couple of years ago, which I can't find now, about removing the external window trim, which from memory involved removing the door panel and interior window trim, thus revealing the retaining screws/clips for the "chrome" trim. When I get round to it I will post a "How to". Contemporary BMWs and Mercedes are much easier!

I keep toying with the idea of removing the rear suspension on my 1996 LS400 to deal with the usual surface corrosion and replace as many bushes as possible, preferably with polyurethane, for reasons of cost and ease of installation. Like your car, mine has only done about 80,000 miles and the bushes are showing their 26 years, with plenty of surface cracking, although my usual MoT tester has not made any adverse comments, yet. In the course of my research I thought that the hardness was indicated by the colour, but this is not universally true, apparently. I read somewhere that the standard bushes were 70ShA, whereas on the website of strongflexuk.com they state their yellow (Sport) bushes are 90ShA and their red ones are 80ShA, which they say equates to the standard rubber bushes. I did get in touch with PSB and they told me all their bushes are all 90ShA, so perhaps a compromise is to use polyurethane for most of the suspension bushes except those parts that attach directly to the bodyshell, to reduce NVH. Having said all that, aftermarket rubber bushes are available, but more than one member has stated that they don't seem to have the longevity of the originals. Having replaced the (front?) control arm bushes have you noticed any difference in noise or ride comfort, which obviously as Lexus strong point?

The admittedly very small rust spots are the only ones on the car, and they have been like that for several years, even with the car living outside for 26 years. However, they will be addressed one day.