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Everything posted by Howplum
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OK, thanks. So I need to buy 2 litres then.
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Does anyone happen to know the capacity of the differential? The Owner's Manual doesn't say.
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Thank you all for your encouragement. You're right of course, @ambermarine, and I did notice there was the usual flaking paint and surface corrosion on the suspension components, so I will be cleaning those up before submitting it for an MoT test. I've noticed in the course of my research that underbody surface corrosion quite often comes up as an advisory point on theLS400.
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Six months ago I was offered this car, which my friend bought new in 1996, by the current owner who bough it from him in 2016, but he barely used it. As a result of it sitting on his drive for over 3 years it is now in desperate need of some serious TLC. I have had a few projects since I retired (I don't like golf), but they were all BMW and Mercedes-Benz, so this is my first Lexus. I was offered the car in 2016, when it was still in regular use, but had to refuse due to other projects on the go. Two things in its favour - the mileage of 79,000 and the price of £400. How could I refuse! So far I am impressed with the build quality, especially compared to my previous projects. As an example, the wheel nuts were not seized and the alloy wheels were not fused to the hub, which has happened frequently to me before. I also noticed that Lexus used what looks like stainless steel bleed nipples - very thoughtful. Once the immobiliser had been disconnected the car started with no trouble, even after its extended slumber. I have made a list of jobs that need doing, but no doubt that will change as I get more familiar with the car: Overhaul the braking system. At least the parking brake works well and wasn't even seized on after 3+ years Change the bonnet struts (common) Treat the car to a new Lexus battery Carry out a full "B" service, although I might pass on checking the valve clearances Replace the timing belt, along with the water pump. I'm not sure about idler and tensioner though. Replace the N/S mirror glass (common) Recommission the A/C Get the climate control LCD display repaired (common). Apparently @steve2006 can help there Get the electric aerial working properly (common) Get the sunroof working properly. Apparently it's never been used in 24 years. Investigate the non-working heated front seats (common) Dry out and clean the interior. It looks as though water has got in behind the dashboard due to a blocked drain Tidy up the bodywork, especially the scrape down the offside Repaint the wheels I did find a rear brake pipe had rusted through, just where it passes through a clip, so I had to cut the pipe and cap it, then I could at least manoeuvre it off the owner's sloping driveway. That was fun! Some photographs follow, but those of you with a sensitive disposition, or OCD tendencies, might want to stop looking now! I will keep you posted with progress, time and weather allowing. PS: Are the registration letters appropriate? VRP = Very Reasonable Project. Alternative suggestions welcome.
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In the end I admitted defeat and found an auto electrician who has removed the offending alarm/immobiliser for a reasonable £45. It took him an hour, and he was a professional, so goodness knows how long it would have taken me, had I even been able to figure it out. He was surprised that the system had lasted 24 years, since apparently Scorpion did not have a good reputation for reliability, especially once over 10 years old. It does mean I don't have the same level of security, or remote central locking, but the insurance company don't seem concerned. Still, at least I can get it onto a low loader and back to my house. Let fun begin.........
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Thanks for that @Tulpen, that might come in useful. In fact I have just found the original operating instructions for the security system, which, under the heading "Failure to Disarm", states that a random rolling encryption code is used, so occasionally the remote and the system will become out of synchronisation. The solutions, which sound easy, are: 1. Press and hold the ON/OFF button for 10 seconds, which should resynchronise the system. Pressing the ON/OFF button a second time should then disarm the security system. Or: 2. If that fails, contact your Lexus dealer!
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After several months of dithering I have now bought a friend's car which has been sitting unused since 2017. It has several issues, which will become the subject of a separate thread, but for now my main problem is how to turn off the immobiliser so that it will start. I know it runs because in October last year I posted a tutorial on how to reset the alarm/immobiliser, but at that time the remote control was working. Since October the car has had no battery in it, although at some point earlier this year a mechanic did start the car without any apparent problem. However, having now bought the car I find the remote control is not communicating with the alarm/immobiliser, so does not operate the central locking or activate/deactivate the immobiliser. This is the type of remote control I have: I have tried the following reset procedure, several times, which seems to be the most common method for this system: 1. Disconnect battery 2. Turn ignition key to "on" position 3. Reconnect battery 4. Press black button on remote for 10 seconds (presumably with the ignition key still in the "on" position) I have tested the battery in the remote, which is perfectly healthy. Is there another reset procedure for the remote that I could try?
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Unloved ls430
Howplum replied to Chasdad's topic in LS 400 / Lexus LS 430 / Lexus LS 460 / Lexus 600h / Lexus 500h Club
Can you do most of the work yourself? Do you have the time? What will you do when it's finished? If you intend to sell it, is it likely to be financially viable? Even with a new battery you might have to disable/deactivate the immobiliser somehow. I'm trying to buy a 1996 LS400 that's been sitting for 3 years, so the brakes will need overhauling (due to a fluid loss), along with a new timing belt and water pump and full service. There are several other issues, but even doing the work myself, which luckily I have the time and inclination to do, I reckon I won't have much change out of £2,000. I intend to keep the car for a while, but still don't want to pay much more than it's scrap value of £100. In it's favour, the mileage is only 80,000 with just two owners, both of whom are known to me. -
I have used products from this company successfully on a couple of Mercedes: http://www.nueraproducts.co.uk/ They will provide a renovation dye to match, but you need to send them a sample. They also supply a flexible filler, although in your case the tear would have to have a repair patch glued to the back, to prevent it spreading, which hopefully could be done in situ. Included are two photographs of an armrest repaired using their filler, renovation dye and other creams from their renovation kit. The second two show a seat back similarly treated, although no filler was required. I have no connection with this company, other than as a satisfied customer.
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There's always a few V8s in the BMW range: E34 5 Series 530/535/540 E39 5 Series 535/540 E38 7 Series 730/735/740 Excellent parts support from the manufacturer and elsewhere, together with umpteen forums etc. on the internet. Mercedes-Benz also do a few V8s, such as S500, E500, CL500, S430, E430 etc. Hopefully your nephew has investigated insurance costs before getting too excited.